Having problem with TF Magna Auto box. It started off by 'revving out' between gears but has got much worse. Now it either :

1. Changes gear at will, regardless of speed
2. Won't change gear at all
3. Goes into Limp mode (3 gear) with neutral light flashing

Or all 3 and a loss of power.

Took it to my local auto specialist and they hooked it up to the computer but it told them nothing. They checked the input and output speed sensors and replaced the 'pulse generators' but to no avail.....

Anyone got any ideas what it could be? I don't wanna pay $2500 for a rebuild and the breakers want $1400 for a second hand one......

Thx

Having problem with TF Magna Auto box. It started off by 'revving out' between gears but has got much worse. Now it either :

1. Changes gear at will, regardless of speed
2. Won't change gear at all
3. Goes into Limp mode (3 gear) with neutral light flashing

Or all 3 and a loss of power.

Took it to my local auto specialist and they hooked it up to the computer but it told them nothing. They checked the input and output speed sensors and replaced the 'pulse generators' but to no avail.....

Anyone got any ideas what it could be? I don't wanna pay $2500 for a rebuild and the breakers want $1400 for a second hand one......

Thx

Have you checked the oil? A good flush and oil change might help a bit, but sounds like it could be too far gone.

Did the "auto specialist" check the oil? Should've been the first thing they checked.

I'll put my house on the oil being brown/black and burnt. Get it flushed and if it doesn't get any better then it's probably been neglected for too long.

Worst case scenario, there's an auto gearbox for sale on eBay, currently $180, it's in WA too. Linky (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Magna-TE-V6-96-model-Auto-Gearbox_W0QQitemZ260437834455QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU _Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3ca34dfad7&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C 301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50) :)

Did the "auto specialist" check the oil? Should've been the first thing they checked.

I'll put my house on the oil being brown/black and burnt. Get it flushed and if it doesn't get any better then it's probably been neglected for too long.


I'm assuming that he checked it.... How easy is it to get if flushed/refilled? Could I do it myself?

I'm assuming that he checked it.... How easy is it to get if flushed/refilled? Could I do it myself?
No not properly. You can change the oil in the gearbox, but that still leaves the old oil in the torque converter.
A proper flush will pump new oil through the whole system.
Mitsu gearboxes use a specific ATF fluid as well, not your standard Dextron III. Make sure the proper fluid is used
This is one job I'd take it to a Mitsu service centre for.

No not properly. You can change the oil in the gearbox, but that still leaves the old oil in the torque converter.
A proper flush will pump new oil through the whole system.
Mitsu gearboxes use a specific ATF fluid as well, not your standard Dextron III. Make sure the proper fluid is used
This is one job I'd take it to a Mitsu service centre for.

It's an easy enough job to do yourself at home if you have the right tools and know what you're doing. I've done a proper flush myself with the help of my old man (you need 2 people - one to spot so the torque convertor doesn't pump dry)

Having said that, for the OP, I would seriously go and check the oil yourself. Take the car for a short drive till the gearbox oil is warmed up a bit. Then check the quality of the oil (the dipstick for the ATF is the white one just to the left, and underneath the intake snorkel) Wipe it clean with some clean tissues (don't use a dirty old rag) re-dip and check again. The quality of the oil should be a nice light pink colour and should smell a bit like cherries. If it's brown or black or smells burnt, it's time to get a flush done.

In this case, ring around a few Mitsubishi dealers and tell them you want a transmission flush. Get a few quotes. It should cost around $200.

Edit: Also don't forget to check the level of the ATF. It should read in the "HOT" range if you've taken the car for a short drive to warm the transmission up a bit.

Just took the car for a spin again and for a while most of the problems had gone away for a kilometer or so. It was very jumpy between gears, kicking up and down quite hard. No other problems and then.... limp mode. Neutral light flashing every second and stuck in third. The manual says that its overheating if it flashes twice a second so its not that..... I had a look at the oil and it seemed quite low and was brown in colour (like the colour of engine oil), certainly not red. It didn't smell though.....

Bearing in mind that I don't think the transmission has ever been serviced shall I get the belts tightened as well? Would they do that at the same time as the oil/filter...

The son of the bloke across the road (works in a wreckers apparantly) reckons this is a common problem and the oil and filter need changing 3 times before all the crap comes out. I guess a flush would achieve the same thing. I don't really trust garages so how can I be sure they will do it properly? How do I do it myself? Anyone got step by step instructions from start to finish?

Appreciate the help by the way... thanks all

autos don't have belts they have bands and clutch packs....
the clutch plates can wear out and burn out over time from lack of oil and heat...
and third gens only have one band according to the manual????


if u pull off one of the lines going to your auto cooler and pour in oil as it comes out...
keep doing this till the oil changes to normal red colour... then change your filter... tf's have a screw on filter i think???

but it may be too late... the box might be stuffed....

Don't the bands need adjusting over time though?

You mean to pour oil into where the dipstick is and watch it come out of the oil cooler line, right? The filter, where is it located? Someone told me it was inside the sump, is that not right? If it is its gonna be a pain.....

Anyone know if a TE 96 box will fit a TF 97 ????

Yes it will.

Its likely that your auto box has a 'spin-on' filter mounted externally on the top of the transmission - its exactly like an engine oil-filter, but "sits up" rather than hanging down or sideways like engine oil filters are usually mounted. There is also an internal strainer-type filter which cannot be serviced without pulling the auto out and splitting the box.

In later cars - certainly by TJ - Mitsi (in their wisdom - NOT) deleted the external oil filter -the spin-on one.

There have been threads in the past, but prob best bet for transmission flush/fluid change instructions would be to look at the Workshop manual thread, download the genuine workshop manual, and read the chapter for TH or TJ - the process is exactly the same, but you'll also be wise to get a new external oil filter.

You need at least a couple of bottles of trans fluid - gen Mitsi of course. You follow instructions to drain as much old fluid as possible, then top up with new fluid. Then disconnect oil line coming OUT of the radiator trans cooler, and run box a bit to drain dirty fluid. Stop, top-up. Run dirty fluid out, stop. Top-up, run drain stop top-up...... until fluid runs clear. Also read detailed instructions to cycle box thru all gear selector positions etc to fully flush the valve-body.

BIG CAVEAT, make sure box is never too low of fluid as you do the flush/drain phases. A fair bit of new fluid is wasted, but Mitsi Genuine fluid is just as good value as any other and is strongly recommended that you use this fluid and this fluid only.

Search also for term "wave spring" - altho a newer box than TE/TF would often be a good thing, one part was (at some unknown stage of model series) possibly changed and a weaker version implemented. My family have had complete failure of 2 TJ autos due to this issue.... one car at 57500kms, another car at 180K. Other members in here also suffered same thing - dunno about TH, but TJ is certainly affected by "wave spring" dramas.

flashman, see here - http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56815

There's a full technical rundown on how to flush the transmission in there. Make sure you have 2 people tho.

Don't go buying a new transmission or panicking too much yet. I would say all your problems will go away once the box is flushed properly. You may need to flush it, then drive it for a week or so, then do it again. As far as amount of fluid goes, I would be getting 3, 5L bottles from Mitsubishi.

Thanks to all who have helped, gonna get me a filter and some oil and have a crack at it.....

Forgot to ask, one more thing..... Bearing in mind that the band probably needs adjusting (which it probably does as the box has never been serviced that I know of) is there any point in my flushing the box out myself and changing oil/filter etc. Or is adjusting the band something that can be done in isolation? I'm guessing that the oil probably needs to come out to adjust the band anyway....

Somebody mentioned to me that I should get the box 'serviced' at the Mistu garage. They said they would encompass changing the oil/filter and adjusting the band. Is that right? I guess they don't 'flush' it but could ask them too....

Sorry for all the questions but not too mechanically minded....

thx

Forgot to ask, one more thing..... Bearing in mind that the band probably needs adjusting (which it probably does as the box has never been serviced that I know of) is there any point in my flushing the box out myself and changing oil/filter etc. Or is adjusting the band something that can be done in isolation? I'm guessing that the oil probably needs to come out to adjust the band anyway....

Somebody mentioned to me that I should get the box 'serviced' at the Mistu garage. They said they would encompass changing the oil/filter and adjusting the band. Is that right? I guess they don't 'flush' it but could ask them too....

Sorry for all the questions but not too mechanically minded....

thx

Don't worry about adjusting any bands. Do the flush and pray it helps, otherwise you'll need to look further into it.

correct me if im wrong but band adjustments require a strip down of the box???

Do they? Bloody ell. I thought it was part of the 'auto service" which I was quoted just under $200 for......

Do they? Bloody ell. I thought it was part of the 'auto service" which I was quoted just under $200 for......

The auto bands cannot be adjusted on these boxes.

There's also no inspection pan to see the internals.

Either a flush fixes the issue, or the box gets torn down.

That settles it then... flush it is.... thx to all

That settles it then... flush it is.... thx to all

Hi Flashman,

How did you go?

i just rebuilt my box (yet to start the car) but these transmissions do not have bands they are all clutch packs....

i just rebuilt my box (yet to start the car) but these transmissions do not have bands they are all clutch packs....

Did you do it yourself?

I just got quoted 235 to do a tranny flush. was just wondering if i should save the money and rebuild the gearbox when it shits itself.

Did you do it yourself?

I just got quoted 235 to do a tranny flush. was just wondering if i should save the money and rebuild the gearbox when it shits itself.

This makes no sense. Surely if you can rebuild an automatic gearbox you have the skills to flush the transmission. $100 in oil and 1 hour of your time.

This makes no sense. Surely if you can rebuild an automatic gearbox you have the skills to flush the transmission. $100 in oil and 1 hour of your time.

i was asking gtrtwin turbo if he did it himself.

I on the other hand, do not have the mechanical know how to do it myself and would have to bring it to a shop. However i was contemplating on either doing the tranny flush or just getting the rebuild done

sorry to take over but yes i did it myself just have to mount the valve body back on properly and fit intake ect....
cost aprox $900 in parts + $350 for crane..
i took the box to work and rebuilt it at work with the help of some of the old car mechanics...

ah... i see.... what i was trying to get at is if the flush really doesnt work, i dont want to spend thousands on a rebuilding one and i may just have a crack at doing it myself.

thanks gtr

i wouldn't recommend it...
ive done a couple of autos before but a lot bigger than a car trans, and
i had the mits disassembly and reassembly guide and i still got stuck
it was just lucky one of the trans guys at work used to work on cars
and had done a couple of magna boxs...
u need specialised tooling to rebuild all the hubs which i had to make up
and if u get it wrong u are worse off than when u started....

alright..... i guess i would have to look for second hand ones then. i spose that will be a bridge to cross when i get to it... :(