Whenever I am going around a corner while turning relatively sharply I can hear a tapping sort of sound. I had a look when I was under the car last week changing the oil but couldnt see anything obvious.
Does anyone know what this could be? Is it something I should be concerned about?

Thanks

Maybe the CV joint? Just a guess...

Yeh id say its your cv's.. THey make a noise turning, Youll know for sure when you turn full lock, if it make a weird noise then id say it that..

haha does it sound like crunching??? I know how you feel

I think if I remember correctly, if you are getting that sound when turning and accelerating - it means the 'inner' joints are buggered

Yeah Cvs start off as a tappy sorta noise then it goes to a clunk. If you are real lucky you might get a crunch and then a tow truck ride.:P

Best thing is get them checked ASAP and be prepair to have to replace them. They are getting rather cheap to do now. I paid $140 a side for Brand News ones last year here in Sydney and i threw them in myself. You can get cheaper reco ones but i would avoid. I have broken a few of the cheap and nastys.

Yeah Cvs start off as a tappy sorta noise then it goes to a clunk. If you are real lucky you might get a crunch and then a tow truck ride.:P

Best thing is get them checked ASAP and be prepair to have to replace them. They are getting rather cheap to do now. I paid $140 a side for Brand News ones last year here in Sydney and i threw them in myself. You can get cheaper reco ones but i would avoid. I have broken a few of the cheap and nastys.

i think i need to replace mine, i get the tapping/clunking sound when full locked... is there any way to tell for sure? if it is the CVs (which im fairly certain it is :P), is mitsubishi the place to go? or elsewhere?

cheers jase

Quick question for those in the know.
When replacing a CV joint is it also a good idea to replace other things as well?
I can't remember the exact part (maybe drive shafts?) but seem to remember there was something else once advised to be done at the same time as CVs.

i think i need to replace mine, i get the tapping/clunking sound when full locked... is there any way to tell for sure? if it is the CVs (which im fairly certain it is :P), is mitsubishi the place to go? or elsewhere?

cheers jase

One way to tell is when parked and wheels facing straight ahead get under and cran the shafts and shake them. If they are in bad shape you will find there will be free play. Move them towards tyre and back and also towards front bumper and back. If there is freeplay they are worse for wear usually. DOnt go to mits. Go directly to a CV/Drive shaft shop. They are around. If you go to mits or a mechanic they only get them from those guys anyway.

Quick question for those in the know.
When replacing a CV joint is it also a good idea to replace other things as well?
I can't remember the exact part (maybe drive shafts?) but seem to remember there was something else once advised to be done at the same time as CVs.

What you will find is that most places do an exchange complete shaft. They will bring new ones nd take away your damages ones. That was is best as its a short process. If your shafts come out then need to be sent away for CVs to be replaced then they come back to be fitted. Usually takes over nite. Exchange can happen in hours. CV / Drive Shaft shops always have them on teh shelf ready to fit.

But like i said dont buy reco CVs, They are usually cheap Thaiwanese Parts and are rubbish. Spend a few bucks a shaft and get new ones. Like i said i got mine from CV shop here in Sydney and they Where 140 a side. Might of even been 120 a side. They reco ones i had before where 110 for the pair and i broke both. one was a week later and the other was a month later. The Agressive Cusco LSD didnt help but the new ones even made the car feel so much better to drive. :)

The ones I get have new outers and reco inners, I have never to this day had an issue as they are done by a professional cv guy and he gives the same warranty as you get with a total new one

The inner is actually called a DOJ as it moves through 2 planes (in and out and at angle) to make it simple to explain. There is not much that goes wrong with the inners that a resurface of the bearing surface will not take care off with new oversize bearings installed in the joint

The outers can be reco'd but these I avoid like the plague as they are trouble and never last

If it is only when i turn right would that indicate just one side needs replacing? or should I replace both anyway?
I will get under the car and have a look at the joints later today.

Thanks

If it is only when i turn right would that indicate just one side needs replacing? or should I replace both anyway?
I will get under the car and have a look at the joints later today.

Thanks

If it only when you go one way its one side. Also you are best of doing both. If not you could be doing it all again on the other side in 6 months time. You wont see the joints as they have rubber boots over them holding the grease in and the dirt out. If there is a split in the boot and you find grease everywhere that is a good sign they are a little worse for wear. It grease is getitng out dirty is getting in.:)

Jack the car up with both wheels off the ground. Put it in full lock one way and turn both wheels. Repeat in opposite lock. You will soon find out which joint is rough, but as other ppl have said, doing both sides is a good idea.

As a DIY job it is not too difficult to remove the drive shaft and removing both boots. Both joints can be checked for play, roughness and lack of grease. If the outer joint has no play or roughness then it can be ressurected. Sometimes the noise just indicates a lack of grease - spun out through a torn boot. Just regreasing and putting new boots on ($13 each, includes clips and grease) can reduce or remove the clacky noise altogether. Obviously if you find roughness or play in the outer joint it will need to be replaced as they are non repairable, but walking into a repair shop with the drive shafts will still be cheaper.

One of the boots on my TS was split. I pulled both shafts off, cleaned and checked all joints and reassembled with new boots. All up cost $13X4, plus my free labour. A few hours work, but I figure I save $80 per hour in labour costs so its worthwhile, and I know everything will be ok for a while - just a quick check every 6 months for boot condition.

A "drive in - drive out" CV place will replace the outer joints and solve the problem too, easier but more expensive.

As a DIY job it is not too difficult to remove the drive shaft and removing both boots. Both joints can be checked for play, roughness and lack of grease. If the outer joint has no play or roughness then it can be ressurected. Sometimes the noise just indicates a lack of grease - spun out through a torn boot. Just regreasing and putting new boots on ($13 each, includes clips and grease) can reduce or remove the clacky noise altogether. Obviously if you find roughness or play in the outer joint it will need to be replaced as they are non repairable, but walking into a repair shop with the drive shafts will still be cheaper.

A "drive in - drive out" CV place will replace the outer joints and solve the problem too, easier but more expensive.

Its all good to say its a 13 dollar job but how do you press the clip back on without the right tool..??

I recycle the original boot clips where possible, the band style that come with the kit can be tightened with a screwdriver and pliers. PITA to get tight enough though.
The clip that holds the inner joint to the shaft needs a pair of circlip pliers, cheap to get, handy to have.

Hmmmm - what other clips are there?

i get a random noise when on full lock to the right too, mine is just the front mud flap guard thingy touching the wheel.

yeah, we are all assuming the op's problem is with cv joints, but it could be something simpler like that. lol A tyre scraping on one of the plastic shields. Easy to find and fix!