Hey guys,

Considering replacing my CV today (if funds permit)

Is there anything special I need to do or is it as simple as:

1. Lock gearbox (Park), Remove wheel and unbolt main hub bolt, then unbolt hub from strut
2. Unlock gearbox (Neutral), Pull hub back and pop CV out of transaxle and hub
3. Insert new CV into transaxle and hub, bolt hub back on to strut
4. Lock Gearbox (Park), double-check everything is popped in properly, re-do main hub bolt and reinsert pin
5. Done?

Sort of, the lh shaft is actually easier to get out of the trans than the rh one is to get off the half shaft

Use a screw driver in the rotor vents agains the caliper to hold it from turning when you undo the big nut, undo the strutt and pull back to allow the shaft to come out of the hub. Use a crow bar to pull the joint out of the trans.

On the RHS, you are best to undo the 2 bolts for the half shaft and change this over off the car, is easier to get the joint off the shaft this way

You will usually lose a little trans fluid so make sure yo have some top up fluid there as well

Cheers, did my mate Ben's today on his Pulsar (Drivers side) and that seemed to go ok (Drove it home tonight after 3 days work, long story!), I also got a reco pass side for myself for $90 (CV Joints Aus in Auburn FYI - cheap reco joints) Gonna tackle it tomorrow and see how we go, definately needs doing. she tor a boot open and is pissing oil all over my rim. The half-shaft you are speaking of, is this drivers side or pass side, and is it inside the CV boots or something? I know in the pulsar the CV went straight from the hub into the transaxle.

*Bump* Anybody, re: above?

Didn't get around to it today, was sorting out rego all day, damn mechs are never open/available when you need them!

I found the drive shaft nut easy to undo by:

putting the wheel back on after the split pin is removed,
lowering the vehicle so the weight is on the wheel,
handbrake on,
breaker bar and socket to undo nut,
pipe extension if nut is extra tight.

Cheers

Tackling this 7am tomorrow morning, wish me luck!

Half-shaft, from reading Mal's post - is the drivers side..... whereas pass side driveshaft goes straight from gearbox to hub, on the drivers side (longer distance from gearbox, remember) there is a half-shaft from gearbox, then driveshaft to the hub. It'll be obvious what is meant when you get under there and look - or check out diagrams in Workshop manual tonite.

Good luck with it, and thanks for posting the tip about the reco CV place in Auburn.

Half-shaft, from reading Mal's post - is the drivers side..... whereas pass side driveshaft goes straight from gearbox to hub, on the drivers side (longer distance from gearbox, remember) there is a half-shaft from gearbox, then driveshaft to the hub. It'll be obvious what is meant when you get under there and look - or check out diagrams in Workshop manual tonite.

Good luck with it, and thanks for posting the tip about the reco CV place in Auburn.

Cheers, that makes sense now... I know when we did the pulsar the drivers side CV was just almost a metre long, no half-shaft at all, straight into the box! :P I suppose the magna's engine block is quite a bit larger though. Can't exactly go straight under it.

I found the drive shaft nut easy to undo by:

putting the wheel back on after the split pin is removed,
lowering the vehicle so the weight is on the wheel,
handbrake on,
breaker bar and socket to undo nut,
pipe extension if nut is extra tight.

Cheers

Not flaming you mate but why the hell would you go to all that trouble when all you need to do is put a screw driver in the vent of the rotor, pop it agains the caliper and then go for your life

I just use my rattle gun to undo them, then above to tighten up.

The half shaft is the one that goes on the RHS of the trans to the edge of the engine, Pulsars do not have them thus why the stupid cars torque steer so badly

FYI, just did one on a TF, drivers side, tool me 20 mins from drive in to drive out

Have had to do them that way in the past cause the nut has either been rusted or loctited on.

Cheers

Have had to do them that way in the past cause the nut has either been rusted or loctited on.

Cheers

Or put on by someone without a torque wrench . . . . . .:hmm:

Is that CV place in Auburn the one with shafts on Ebay all the time? My drivers side is completely shagged so was gonna do both just in case. Do you need to pop the bottom ball joint to get the shafts in an out?

Is that CV place in Auburn the one with shafts on Ebay all the time? My drivers side is completely shagged so was gonna do both just in case. Do you need to pop the bottom ball joint to get the shafts in an out?

Yep, thats the one. All went well, no you do not need to pop the bottom ball joint. I did it with help from a mate with the drivers side wheel on the ground, pass side jacked up. I found it to be a 2 person job to bold the hub back on due to the front sway bar pushing up. One needs to push down on the sway bar while the other lines up and reinserts the bolt. I also found it best to remove the CV from the hub BEFORE removing from the gearbox, however inserting into the gearbox before inserting into the hub.

All went well with the CV replacement this morning, thanks for your advice Mal.

Cheers, will probably pick one up this week. Is it not easy to just unbolt the sway bar before you start? Having one side jacked up quite high will make it push a fair bit. Did you lose much in the way of gearbox oil?

All you need to do is take off the 2 bolts that hold the strutt to the knuckle

Also in relation to jacking up, lowering etc etc with the car, does not matter if the joint is welded on, if yo have a bar big enough to remove the nut then this will hold the rotor regardless.

have had a few that are rusted into the hub buy touch wood, never an issue getting the nut itself undone