Well i think iam finally ready to get off my ass and start my boot install...will give me something to do as well since all i do now that iam in holiday mode is sleep in the day..get up at nite and head out! lol

Below is my kickass skillz at would you believe it..photoshop! I've got the 2 mtx's sitting around and have planned to put them each in its own ported box..tuned to around about 35/37hz since th Fs is 36.4Hz. The amps will be under a false floor with plexiglass for each amp to you can see it do its thing(very exciting). Eventually will get some lighting going on under the floor..hence the plexiglass.

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss204/muzzi_gtv/Layoput_edited-1.jpg

Will divide the floor into 3 parts so i can take it out and get access to the spare wheel.

Dynamatting of the boot is complete.

3 amps consisting of 2 monoblocks for each sub and 1x4channel for rear 6x9's and fronts.

In terms of wiring will run 0 gauge from the battery and hopefully though the cars side wall thingy but if that fails then will go under carpet, was initially going to go for 2 runs since each monoblock pulls 1500rms but where the hell would i fit it!

From the 0 gauge it'll be to a dist block splitting it to 2 gauge for each mono block and for the 4 channel. Will upgrade rca cables as well while iam at it. No thought of a cap yet...will install the system and see how my elec system handles it.

In terms of the cars system will go to an auto elec and get the strap from alt to battery upgraded along with the strap to ground and maybe get a H/O alt pushing bout 200 amps. Attempting to get a steady 14-14.2v out of the system rather then the stock 13.4-13.8 iam currently getting.

Will continue using existing remote wire, but will probly invest in 10/12 gauge speakerwire for the subs especially.

For the sub enclosure amp contemplating plexiglass thru and thru but will just be an added cost i suppose. Each box will be round the 2.5cu.ft net mark whcih should be good enough for the 12"'s.

All in all should be fun. Just goot purchase the wiring and materials and ill be off!

ok

1) dont bother with a cap.

2) buy an optima yellow top

3) upgrade your battery - chassis earth to 0AWG

4) dont bother with straps between the alternator and battery. There's this giant piece of iron/allow that connects to your battery (your engine block and your chassis....)

5) Remote wire: set up a relay, remote wires should be used for a max of 2 amps, after that its time for a relay.

6) Custom alts are $1200AUD set up, or IF you can find a good auto elec - somewhere around $600 for a magna one re-wired, new rectifiers, new diode packs etc Will measure my voltage at amps when I get a chance, standard alternator and Optima Yellow top.*

7) you'll struggle to fit 5cuft of boxes under that parcel tray, have some faith - been there done that, I reckon 110lt total space under there is possible. or around 3.8cuft. At that stage, the box will already start to come out over the spare wheel well (by around 8cm from memory) Limiting your space between the sub box and back of boot, to around 40cm.

*sub note: Your alternator already produces 14.8odd volts, a larger alternator will not create more volts, it will create amps. Volts will be determined by your reserve capacity (battery), secondly by resistance to the boot (this includes distro blocks, wire etc). To get the most volts down the line, consider running 00BS Gauge.....this has a slightly bigger X-section than 0AWG. 000BSG would be better, but hard to fit. Unfortunately even at 00BSG you're looking at custom distro blocks, probably around $200 from a machinest.

1) dont bother with a cap.

a) i wont

2) buy an optima yellow top

a)In the books to get one.

3) upgrade your battery - chassis earth to 0AWG

a) aye will upgrade that

4) dont bother with straps between the alternator and battery. There's this giant piece of iron/allow that connects to your battery (your engine block and your chassis....)

a) oh fine and dandy with me then! wasnt aware of the iron being there.

5) Remote wire: set up a relay, remote wires should be used for a max of 2 amps, after that its time for a relay.

a)done..relay to buy, check.

6) Custom alts are $1200AUD set up, or IF you can find a good auto elec - somewhere around $600 for a magna one re-wired, new rectifiers, new diode packs etc Will measure my voltage at amps when I get a chance, standard alternator and Optima Yellow top.*

a) wow didnt see that coming..i was thinking maybe $400 max for a 200amp alt. Currently my systems pumping out on avg the standard 13.8v with a stock magna battery (i think 480cc) and stock elec system. Am definetly looking to see if i can squeeze more juice out..if possible.

7) you'll struggle to fit 5cuft of boxes under that parcel tray, have some faith - been there done that, I reckon 110lt total space under there is possible. or around 3.8cuft. At that stage, the box will already start to come out over the spare wheel well (by around 8cm from memory) Limiting your space between the sub box and back of boot, to around 40cm.

a) aaah about the space under the parcel shelf..there is none..is taken up by a gas tank! lol..the area i drew was the open area AFTER the parcel shelf since the tank takes up the whole inner bit of the boot. Ill be seperating the floor into 3 parts so i can take it apart to get access to the wheel well..i have no other choice BUT to cover it with the subs...ill have no boot space..yes..but ill have boom boom.lol

*sub note: Your alternator already produces 14.8odd volts, a larger alternator will not create more volts, it will create amps. Volts will be determined by your reserve capacity (battery), secondly by resistance to the boot (this includes distro blocks, wire etc). To get the most volts down the line, consider running 00BS Gauge.....this has a slightly bigger X-section than 0AWG. 000BSG would be better, but hard to fit. Unfortunately even at 00BSG you're looking at custom distro blocks, probably around $200 from a machinest.

do you think its worth going to 00bsg for a daily driver? i may enter a comp just for the hell of it and to see what iam capable of but nothing serious. From calculations (rough) iam gonna be gettin less then the 'stated' 3000wrms or 1500rms per amp. Those values are based on 14.4v and efficiency is only 86% at 4ohm so running at 1ohm and linking them up will eat more wrms away.

Currently looking at the 'blue' stinger 0 gauge and twisted lvl 3 stinger gear ...dist blocks/rca's/speakerwire.

Only issue is the fuses that come with that pack is rated at 250amps..when theoretically iam running (160a x 2 + 50a x 1)...just need to get a bigger fuse?

damn though ive been hunting melbourne for non-stinger gear..not much out there..and none of the high end stuff either.. will keep scouring the net but so far all ive found is ryda.com and soundmaster.com

Your reg may be on the way out if its charging below 14V. Standard alt should be fine, if not, get it rebuilt.
No chance you'll fit 2 subs in ported boxes with 3 amps WITH a gas tank in that boot....

00BSG for a daily? not worth it, not that it costs much from an auto-elec wholesaler though (its the distro block that will cost a fortune).

0AWG is more than enough. Try a brand called DNA (ryda stock them). Do not bother with 'Stinger' for wiring.

Iridium for RCA's (ryda stock them, call up and ask) - platinium coated, about 1/2 the price of Stinger, and made by the same factory that make Stinger RCA's.

Ah, gas tank? I'de revise that plan - trust me, you dont have much room. You have maybe 7.5cuft of space then, and part of that is taken up by hinges, and the fact you need to put the box inside the car somehow - you can maybe fit a 3cuft box, and that does not leave room for amps.

As for voltage vs rms - dont stress, the chances you actually need to use 3kw before you go deaf is unlikely, 14.2 volts or so is more than enough.

I also have no idea on how you plan on fitting it in the car like that lol

If I were you, fibreglass box either side for the subs, and the 3 amps can run depth way across the centre of the boot. Thats the only way you'll fit 2 subs and 3 amps in there if you want the amps under plexiglass as you put it.

Oh yeah and did I mention I reckon your gonna be up for $500+ in materials for FG, MDF, and Plexiglass....gonna be a pricey boot install!

haha see THIS is why i post my half baked ideas..so you guys can take it out before i burn the whole house down! lol Iam tempted to get a professional place to install it..like my previous setups..but i figure i may as well give it a go.

Aaah so no love lost if i dont get the 'blue' stinger wires? sweet. Will stick to the dna stuff then. Ill buy them tonite before i head out.

In terms of plexiglass sub boxes i may give that a miss...like u said tufftr very pricey and i have a few more pricier mods on the horizon so need to save for those.

As they say in the cooking biz...here's some i prepared earlier: I wanted to get my handyman skills up to scratch so these are my practice boxes, both using 1" mdf...made 2 different styles to see howd they look...

the rectangle box is about 51.5x41x40cm = ~3cu.ft externally so after taking away Vas and all that jazz iam look about 2cu.ft. http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss204/muzzi_gtv/P110709_1939.jpg

the angular box is 42.5x 45.5 x53 cm = ~ 2.9ish cu.ft so bout 1.9cu.ft internally.
http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss204/muzzi_gtv/P110709_1940.jpg

after all that iam still undecided to which box i should go for. The reason for 2 boxes is purely for looks, yes a dual box would be easier but will go down the dirty dusty path. Both boxes fit...but after further reasearch i figured i want to try squeeze in 2.5cu.ft INTERNALLY so ill go back and re measure everything in the boot again.

you wont find any standard 12 volt passenger car alternator that will put out near 200 amps!,even when re-wound,you might get 20-30 more amps if your lucky over standard,thats it,best idea is to have a big enough battery that can handle the draw that it may have pulled from it when the alternator cannot keep up,or as ERS suggested,a custom made one

Finally got some half baked updates, the goings been slow since i have a few other projects on too. Tis holiday time so i need something to occupy me during the day before i head out!

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss204/muzzi_gtv/P230709_1710.jpg
Boot doesnt look too flash being only bare bone but just waiting on the etchest to get her thing done so i can pop the perspex in and cover the floor and beaty board. Have had to split the floor into 3 parts because thanks to the tank a whole floor wouldnt go in the trunk and i still want access to the spare wheel. Theres no amp situated to the right side because i needed the space for the air tank and compressor.

All the wood cut up to be made into the 2 subs boxes
http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss204/muzzi_gtv/P230709_1712.jpg

All the leftover junk, talk about wastage ay but ill find something to make soon enough.
http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss204/muzzi_gtv/P230709_1713.jpg

In terms of wiring just got 1/0awg kicker wire with 4awg running to both mono amps. Contemplated 75mm^2 welding flex but a)is a biatch to fine and b) is thick as a chicken neck and then ill need a custom distribution block so thought against it. I SHOULD be running a 370amp fuse but since they dont exist ill just luck it out with a 300amp, and iam sure the proposed values of amp carry in 0/1awg is on the conservative side so running this set-up should suffice.

Hopefully get stuck into gluing the boxes together tomorrow and then once cured pop the subs in on sun!

Sorry guys kinda been MIA for a while due to being at the farm and what not.

Just a few quick updates on the Boot install.

This is how the sub boxes stand, yes they dont look pretty but bear with me, they will soon enough. Btw if you were to drop these off a 20 storey building they'd just bounce, their THAT strong. lol

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss204/muzzi_gtv/P280709_2328.jpg

Also to add to it all while i was waiting for the perspex to be etched i got bored and bought a pc and 15" screen which ill be popping into the car, hence why iam passing on the gps. Pc isnt bad, 3GHZ p4 hyper threaded with 1.5gb ram. Thanks to everything being low profile in the box settles with a 128mb graphics card, x-fi xtreme sound card and low profile wireless card. Also made the 15" screen a touch screen to negate a mouse. Now simply waiting on the inverter and gps dongle so i can get it all in the car! It'll help so now while iam driving i can play NFS underground and race really fast! lol

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss204/muzzi_gtv/P020809_1052.jpg
http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss204/muzzi_gtv/P020809_105201.jpg

where do you plan on putting that 15" screen?

where do you plan on putting that 15" screen?

Have installed a little bracket on the right side of the passender footwell and hav a lcd pivot arm to attached to so the arm will bring the screen up infront of the climate control and 2DIN spot. When i need to use the climate control i can juust move the screen out of the way.

Now just waiting on the GPS reciever to arrive AND still for the perspex, but have finished the sub boxes, will get pics up..but goddamn their heavy still yet to weigh them but iam pretty sure around the 50kg mark....times 2.

lolwtf thatwill be soo ghetto!

Seriously mate, go for a moulded screen in the dash, you car's going to look like a coppers cruiser with a big IBM display hanging off your dash.

Seriously mate, go for a moulded screen in the dash, you car's going to look like a coppers cruiser with a big IBM display hanging off your dash.

lol dayam it will, didnt think of that, but too late, just waiting for the amp wiring to arrive so i can strip the car. The whole reason u suppose is that to the best of my knowledge no-one has done anything over the top like that in an aus magna, and means i can race my rx-7 in underground while iam stuck in traffic. lol

Different isn't always better :P

There was a guy going for a portrait 15.4" display in his VR-X, but he never posted whether he finished it or not. Last update was last year.

lol dayam it will, didnt think of that, but too late, just waiting for the amp wiring to arrive so i can strip the car. The whole reason u suppose is that to the best of my knowledge no-one has done anything over the top like that in an aus magna, and means i can race my rx-7 in underground while iam stuck in traffic. lol

There's a very good reason it hasn't been done.

There's a very good reason it hasn't been done.

:stoopid:

pshaw..what are y'all the 'dont do random whacky stuff thats not 'normal' police '? lol ive already bought it anyway so it's going in..when i get sick of it..it'll come out again. btw FINALLY completed the boot install..kinda.
Being lazy and skipping uni so will install it all tomorrow. Intially to the existing head unit, still funking around with the car pc and waiting for the gps. Also got the leds and mil colour LED's ready to go, should look pretty.

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss204/muzzi_gtv/P190809_1519.jpg
http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss204/muzzi_gtv/P190809_1520.jpg
http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss204/muzzi_gtv/P190809_152001.jpg
http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss204/muzzi_gtv/P190809_152002.jpg

ok kinda of an update..of moving backwards. Installed the custom floor and backing BUT am still not happy with the way the plexiglass is sitting SO have figured iam going to wait till next holidays to finish it off. I know its gonna drag on but honestly iam not fussed, am actually more geared towards body modding the car coz as bad as it sounds iam getting 'over' the whole doof doof phase at my ripe young age! lol

But i did miss any form of subbage so ive popped this in the car.
http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss204/muzzi_gtv/P230809_190502.jpg

DOesnt look like much..isnt meant to but YYYYYYYEEEEEEOIOOOOOOOOWWWWWWW it hit STUPID hard! Surprised me. Being a dual 4ohm the amps running it at 2ohm..i think. So i ve only got the one sub in and one mono and the cheap amp running the 6x9's.

Driving back from the gym i turned it up...the gauges i had glues to the a pillar (see car thread) fell off..BOTH of them. Pretty much is stupid loud so actually now contemplating getting rid of the other sub and amp and using that dosh for other mods. What do you guys reckon coz now i think about it..how often will i turn up 3000wrms.

ON the flip side though i do have the option of gettin just the 1 sub which is capable of handeling that power.

Its a war between both sides of the wall damnit!

On the upside upgraded all the 'audio' wiring. Cant speak highly enough of knu koncept shizzle...the 1/0 guage is BIGGER then standard 1/0 and is sooo damn flexible.

Now with the scrap wiring will upgrade the 'big 3'.