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stroppy
10-07-2009, 08:25 PM
Hi all,
I'm a dreaded Newb so please be patient...

I have two Magnas....A TJ Solara 3.5 which I bought new and have looked after lovingly since her "delivery day" She currently has only travelled 32,000 km and so I still think of her as the baby of the family.

The second car was bequeathed to me via a freind of the family who knew that I couldn't afford to trade the TJ in on a station wagon to accommodate the new addition to the family, a raucous Staffy. (Trade-in values on Magnas are terrible and I fail to see why...)

The second car is a TS V6 Magna wagon which had about 170,000km on the clock when I obtained it. After a bit of elbow grease the wagon scrubbed pretty well and it was ideal for the Staffy because it is fitted with a cargo barrier. The only mechanical problem I experienced was the idle control motor playing up (replaced), which I believe is a common fault in this model, according to the mechanic who repaired it.

Now...to the question:

If worst came to worst and I had to replace the engine or auto trans with reco units how much would I be expected to pay, including labour?

The reason I ask this is that I have noticed, upon start-up, that I'm getting valve clatter from one or more valves which usually goes away after a minute or two but sometimes persists for ten minutes. I have treated the motor with that long-life Nulon teflon treatment (I have done this with every car I have ever owned) which has eased the clatter a lot. There are days when there is no noise at all.
The motor isn't burning oil but there's a terrible burnt-rubber smell coming from the engine compartment whenever I drive the car for any distance. Engine power is great and the engine idles smoothly and has plenty of poke when required.

The auto seems okay but I have noticed a couple of rough change downs when the motor is still cold and (this happens every time) there seems to be a momentary lag when drive is first engaged when driving off for the first time after the car has been sitting for more than an hour or so.

Anyway, because the wagon is such a handy beast and is in very clean and original condition, I am not keen to get rid of it, hence my question. Can anyone here advise??? :)

Madmagna
10-07-2009, 08:46 PM
Mate, PM me, set up a time and I will give it a good look over

It would be a rarety for a TS to have to have a new engine after only that mileage, it is still running in lol

Lash adjusters are an easy fix, nulon and the like will not fix them

Rubber smell is most likely oil leak dripping on the exhaust, again should be an easy fix

stroppy
10-07-2009, 08:51 PM
Mate, PM me, set up a time and I will give it a good look over

It would be a rarety for a TS to have to have a new engine after only that mileage, it is still running in lol

Lash adjusters are an easy fix, nulon and the like will not fix them

Rubber smell is most likely oil leak dripping on the exhaust, again should be an easy fix



Thanks MadMagna!!! That's a very generous offer. I will PM you directly.

Elwyn
10-07-2009, 08:56 PM
Burnt Rubber smell - have you checked the tension of the drive-belts? Do you sometimes get a squeal noise on quick acceleration, or when turning sharply to L or R (close to full lock)? A loose or worn-down drive belt would be the most obvious and easy/cheap to fix source of that smell I would reckon.

Noisy Valve Clatter - have you had a listen to try to work out which valves are noisy? You can try to use a long-ish screwdriver as a simple stethoscope - rest tip of screwdriver on rocker cover and put the blunt end of the handle to yur ear (or facial bones)..... this may let you work out the affected part of valve-train a bit more precisely. Search forums for lots of theories and potential cures of lifter noise. Try to work out if it IS valves, or is it some other noise, then seek advice.

Automatic "Lag" - you could try a fluid change. At least check the colour and smell of the transmission fluid. It should be red/pink and clear looking, if it is brown or black or smells burnt - then a change/flush of transmission fluid sooner rather than later would be a good idea. Search of Forums might show opinions and advice on this matter too.

Sounds like the wagon is a useful beast, and deserves a bit of love - so good on you for trying to sort out its few imperfections!!


EDIT:
You are in-touch with Mal. Best option by far.

stroppy
10-07-2009, 09:12 PM
Burnt Rubber smell - have you checked the tension of the drive-belts? Do you sometimes get a squeal noise on quick acceleration, or when turning sharply to L or R (close to full lock)? A loose or worn-down drive belt would be the most obvious and easy/cheap to fix source of that smell I would reckon.

Noisy Valve Clatter - have you had a listen to try to work out which valves are noisy? You can try to use a long-ish screwdriver as a simple stethoscope - rest tip of screwdriver on rocker cover and put the blunt end of the handle to yur ear (or facial bones)..... this may let you work out the affected part of valve-train a bit more precisely. Search forums for lots of theories and potential cures of lifter noise. Try to work out if it IS valves, or is it some other noise, then seek advice.

Automatic "Lag" - you could try a fluid change. At least check the colour and smell of the transmission fluid. It should be red/pink and clear looking, if it is brown or black or smells burnt - then a change/flush of transmission fluid sooner rather than later would be a good idea. Search of Forums might show opinions and advice on this matter too.

Sounds like the wagon is a useful beast, and deserves a bit of love - so good on you for trying to sort out its few imperfections!!


EDIT:
You are in-touch with Mal. Best option by far.



Yep...have tried the old stethoscope trick. Too hard to determine which valve(s) are involved (Either that, or I'm becoming deaf in my old age!!!:()
As to the rubber smell...Could it be the tryres? I have 15 inch alloys on the car and they are a little wider than normal. This causes them to rub when the steering is hard-on-lock. Anyway...the stink comes through the fresh-air plenum when it's open and it's sickly at times.

Trans fluid seems clear. I put some Nulon trans fluid treatment in that too but I haven't serviced the trans since obtaining the car in March. The service I have done is as follows:

-New idle control motor (genuine Mits. part...not the cheapy that was first recommended)
-New spark leads
-Oil change...brake check (still good)
-New tyres.

Elwyn
10-07-2009, 10:03 PM
Let Mal have a look over it - will be by FAR your best option.