Finally fitted the extra hose to the airbox. Went and bought 60cm worth of 50mm TPR from Clarks (60cm was a perfect length so that with 1cm into the airbox, the other end pushed tighly into the weather shield). Following is a write up:
All bolts are 10mm ones.
Tools required: Wire cutter, sharpe knife, file, 54mm hole saw with drill, 10mm socket set and 10mm spanner.

1. Remove battery for better access.
2. Remove snorkel by pushing the airbox backwards so the snorkel pops out and then slide it backwards out of the plastic shroud at the front.
3. Undo the nut at the front/bottom of the airbox.
4. Unclip the airbox and remove filter.
5. Undo the nut from inside the airbox (accesible from the snorkel hole).
6. Undo the nut at the bottom between the front and back halves.
7. Slide front half backwards so its free from the bolt that the nut was removed from in step 5 above.
8. Use a 54mm hole saw and drill a hole right of existing snorkel entry (preferably a flat section).
9. Once drilled, use a file and file away the raised grid on the inside so the spiral hose has a better bite.
10. Screw in the spiral hose. I did mine so that it had about 1cm hanging on the inside and was a tight enough seal that I did not bother with any sealants.
11. Reverse the steps from 7 to 2 to refit everything.
12, Drill a hole using the 54mm hole saw into the weather shield (do not make it too big as the weather shield is there to protect the wiring of the turn indicators etc).
13. Feed hose over battery and carefully bend down over the front edge of the battery and then bend again to face the front and pushed snuggly into the hole made in step 12.
14. Refit the battery.
15. Drill two sets of holes into the battery shield and use cable ties to secure the hose in two locations, one horizontally and one vertically after the first bend.

I'll post some pics tonight once I've got the hose cable tied. At the moment I'm using 20mm wipper snipper lines to hold it in place.

Verdict: I took it for a drive last night and after it warmed up, floored it a few times. Boy was the induction roar loud. It also definitely has extra poke, especially from standstill.

Pics of post install:
1st pic is above view, 2nd pic is close up from above and 3rd pic is from front, through the grill.

Definitely need pics for this one

+1 for the pics..mainly coz i'll need pretty much a picture book to do the same! Good work though!

i did similar, just ran hose from bottom of engine bay to the first resonator that is attached to snorkle. does work, i felt an increase in throttle response, and more pull at high RPM (above 3500)

i did similar, just ran hose from bottom of engine bay to the first resonator that is attached to snorkle. does work, i felt an increase in throttle response, and more pull at high RPM (above 3500)

Mitsubishi has kindly removed the snorkel resonator in the KW Verada GTVi AWD. Don't know whether it is a L/W wide thing or just the GTVi AWD.

I don't have step-by-step pics, just the final pic. Mainly because I was rushing for time. Undoing the nuts with a short 10mm spanner rather than a proper socket set. I actually lost the spanner once and had to use a wire hook to retrieve it from the trans area.:nuts:

Mitsubishi has kindly removed the snorkel resonator in the KW Verada GTVi AWD. Don't know whether it is a L/W wide thing or just the GTVi AWD.

I don't have step-by-step pics, just the final pic. Mainly because I was rushing for time. Undoing the nuts with a short 10mm spanner rather than a proper socket set. I actually lost the spanner once and had to use a wire hook to retrieve it from the trans area.:nuts:

I dont have that either, I think from T/KL on it was deleted.

i have a TJ1 with no reso under snorkel

yeah pics would be great dude i think this is a better idea compared to adding to the snorkel. more air into the box the way it needs it.

Post-install pics added to the first post.

looks good!! Vlad, possible placebo effect or is it really that much of an improvement?

There was definitely improvement felt in standing start and especially rolling start in 1st. In-gear acceleration is very snappy as well. Turned a few heads when I took off in tippy mode and forgot to change to 2nd. I plan to drill a small hole into the front half of the airbox and insert a temperature probe and monitor intake temperature.

Finally fitted the extra hose to the airbox. Went and bought 60cm worth of 50mm TPR from Clarks (60cm was a perfect length so that with 1cm into the airbox, the other end pushed tighly into the weather shield).

Pics of post install:
1st pic is above view, 2nd pic is close up from above and 3rd pic is from front, through the grill.

You have done similar to what ive done except where you have gone in from the front of the airbox (next to the factory inlet), I have gone in to the underside of the airbox and ive used 75mm flex pipe. Reason i put mine underneath is so that its harder to spot and looks alot more factory as thats how ive tried to keep the underbonnet area of my car.

I'm not sure there's room for 75mm pipe down there with the AWD Jason....?

I'm not sure there's room for 75mm pipe down there with the AWD Jason....?

I've squished 90mm past the g'box and aircon lines. 75 will be fine. Wrap some rubber/foam etc around any rubbing components too.

OK, thanks EZ! i'll source a bit of 75mm tube with a flange and chuck it in from inside the air-box...might even dig around at the wreckers for something suitable.

this would of been better?
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16688
at least he can get to the battery terminal lol

this would of been better?
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16688
at least he can get to the battery terminal lol

I can still get to my -ve terminal from under the pipe. The battery can be removed without undoing the pipe. I still have the stock snorkel with holes drilled into the plastic shroud for extra cold air (at least in mine, there is no rubber seal infront of the snorkel intake). So the extra pipe augments the existing air supply. One thing to remember is that in the L/W serires, the blanking plate is there to keep water away from the exposed electrical connectors for the indicators etc. I've cut a hole in it to fit the pipe snuggly to prevent water getting into that area. And as Greenmatt said, there is a lot more hissing to be heard.

this would of been better?
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16688
at least he can get to the battery terminal lol

Yeah its good, i've had that set-up for a while now.....need more now though!

I can still get to my -ve terminal from under the pipe. The battery can be removed without undoing the pipe. I still have the stock snorkel with holes drilled into the plastic shroud for extra cold air (at least in mine, there is no rubber seal infront of the snorkel intake).

the rubber seal sit just behind the intake and closes over the snorkel, it doesn't intrude on the opening

There was definitely improvement felt in standing start and especially rolling start in 1st. In-gear acceleration is very snappy as well. Turned a few heads when I took off in tippy mode and forgot to change to 2nd. I plan to drill a small hole into the front half of the airbox and insert a temperature probe and monitor intake temperature.

Hey this is exactly what i have done except ive enclosed a pod inside a modified air box. you will fin the temp creep up allways even on a cold day when your not moving but the plan is to cool it down fast. For best results see if you can get a hold of a datascan it will give you a more accurate reading of intake temp so you can calibrate your own. Id say do before and after but sorta too late now. still expect good results though, i got an improvement just by adding the box around the pod kept it cooler, according to datascan

I followed Vlad's take on this but in addition to using the 50mm Flexi Flow hose from Clark Rubber - $22 for 1 meter, I used some common(and very cheap -about $5 all up) PVC plastic plumbing fittings and some fly screen wire to minimise/stop any stones and fully seal the work to stop rain getting at the electrics.

The battery box did not need removal or modification, except at the front where I cut a deeper slot so that the radiator overflow hose can go underneath the new CAI hose.

50mm plumbing pipe is just about perfect for this job - I had some spare in the garage.

I went to Bunnings and purchased 1 x 45 degree female/female bend and 1 x 50mm floor flange.

(I purchased a number of extra fittings "just in case" that I did not end up using but I can return them no probs.)

The 45 bend fitted onto the front end of the flexi flow hose comes out perfectly facing forwards.

I cut a 54mm hole in the plastic weathershield that protects the blinkers/headlight wiring with the top of the hole about 1 cm from the top edge.

The floor flange goes into this hole.

About 60mm of the 50mm pipe slides into the flange and into the female bend fitting.

On the front end of the pipe, I attached some flyscreen wire with 2 cable ties.

http://i57.tinypic.com/5dt5du.jpg

(the floor flange is on the right - later I cut some of the horizontal "lip" away for clearance)

http://www.bunnings.com.au/holman-50mm-pvc-dwv-floor-flange_p4750173

http://i62.tinypic.com/dpg3rs.jpg

(use the grinder to slightly decrease the diameter of the flexi flow hose so that it fits neatly into the female 45 bend)

http://i61.tinypic.com/25ujksj.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/10o43gm.jpg

http://i59.tinypic.com/4g5bit.jpg

The grille needed a bit of "surgery" with an angle grinder to give clearance, but nothing major, and not noticeable from the outside.

I might paint the white plastic pipe later with black paint.

It sounds good and feels a bit livelier, but I have to wait to do some figures to compare before and after.

*EDIT* I went to the stretch of road(dual lane, centre divider, no houses etc and up a steep hill to load up the engine) I normally use.

2.5/3km/h improvement over a 50 kmh speed increase from starting speed over the measured distance = Bang for the buck.

I have altered this slightly, and is now done.

The plain 50mm width pipe section is deleted.

Instead, (and I should have thought of this earlier) I used a 75mm long piece of the black flexi hose - angle ground at both ends to fit into the floor flange and 45 degree fitting.

This reduces the need for painting as it is less visible than the white PVC pipe I used earlier and gave me a bit more clearance behind the grille.

http://i62.tinypic.com/2dv925k.jpg

(the floor flange at the right which has been cut away for clearance has 2 wraps around of black electrical tape at the top to make it fit 'just right' into the hand cut hole in the plastic weathershield)

http://i59.tinypic.com/2uzplc6.jpg

Looks good, needs more black paint for stealth.

That's a probability, but I remember the last image was taken with the flash, and the contrast between black and white is less noticeable under normal lighting.

It can stay like that for now as I catch up on other things delayed by this admittedly 'fiddly' project.

Fly screen on the opening will keep bugs out, but what about rain?

Fly screen on the opening will keep bugs out, but what about rain?

I would imagine that unless he's driving in to sideways torrential rain the intake tract would sustain most if any rain going up there.

@ MadMax,

That is a valid point which I have thought about previously.

The stock, unprotected, intake would certainly get moisture running upwards from above the 'diamond' emblem and then ingested.

A rough, "eyeball" estimation of the comparative surface areas of the stock(at the "oval" section of the airbox) vs. added intake area is about 20-25% increase.

It doesn't seem to be an issue, but it is something that I will check, by opening the air box and checking how wet the filter gets on rainy days.

I imagine most moisture will settle on the intake tube walls and run back 'downhill' under closed or partly open throttle conditions.

At some point, I might drill a small 5mm hole in the bottom of the 45 degree bend to allow any accumulation to drop out.

This is the point where accumulation should occur (and rearwards from there), due to the change in direction of the airflow..... but as I said, I will monitor this.

Fly screen on the opening will keep bugs out, but what about rain?

No issues with rain for me and I have driven into torrential rain on the freeway heading to Murray Bridge a few years ago. I also had the K&N panel filter. The wife's Outlander and my Pajero both have their factory CAIs open to the outside from factory.

I also drilled lots of holes on my KW on the flat plastic cover in front of the OEM CAI opening to allow more air in from the grille.