Hey all

I recently swapped out a bad 6g74 engine with a new one I bought - put the fly wheel, torque converter, transmission, manifold, dizzy, starter, p/s pump, alternator etc off the old one onto the new one.

Now when I try and start the car it turns over but doesnt actually catch and start up - just sits there, sounding sad for itself.

Checked the grounding, tried jumping the car from another one, checked spark from the spark plug leads, checked voltage is going to the injectors, moved some grounding points

Have also taken off the manifold and tried turning over the car to see if it was burning the fuel. - puffs of smoke (im assuming burnt fuel/something) puff out in order of firing 1-2-3-4-5-6, with the occasional pop on the 6th.

The crank (also the harmonic balancer) is a bit odd where it will move freely for 75% of the turn and then require a large amount of pressure tol get it past the last 25% - not too sure if this has any relevence tho.

I am fast running out of ideas on what I can do to fix it.

Any idea's people!?

your timing is good yeah?

not 100% certain - Don't have a timing light and cant exactly drive it somewhere to get it tested

The camshaft slot for the distributor drive doesn't have an offset which means it's possible to install the distributor with the rotor button 180 degrees out. I'd check that first before checking the cam and crank timing marks line up or a compression check.

Cheers

your timing is good yeah?

One would assume that timing would be a non-issue because it was a working engine simply swapped in, why would he have messed with the timing?

EDIT: Im not having a go, just curious

if the engine was heard running then swapped in it wont be cam/crank timing, id say the dizzy is the issue as stated above. check the rotor is facing 1 when cylinder 1 is at TDC compression stroke. then check crank/ cam timing, and then double check all connections. also make sure its not a random problem like the immobiliser stopping it.

But if the dist was not removed will not be an issue

To be honest, you need to do some fault finding, first check for injector pulse with a noid light, if all good, check for spark with a timing light, check your rail pressure and also flow

Once you find which one of the above is missing then you will be able to go hunting and locate the issue

Hi there,
I have recently done one of these swaps on my wifes car and had no issues.
Have you double checked all the wiring connectors? (eg: O2 sensor, air flow meter)
It sounds possibly like it could be something small that is easily overlooked.
The resistance you feel should not be of concern.
If all else fails start again from the beginning and you will find the issue.
Good luck.

DiD you actually hear running before swap?

Hi, have you got the spark leads connected on the correct banks?
eg: cyl's 2,4 & 6 are on the front bank starting at the drivers wheel looking towards the passenger side.
Double check that the leads are all going to the correct terminal on the cap (cap is numbered), it is very easy to connect these leads incorrectly.
Are you using the original computer?