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Greetings All.

Haven't been round here for a bit. Anyways, I own a 1997 TE, and Im pondering what mod i should start off with.

Engine (Which ONE)
-Extractors
-POD Filter
-Performance Muffler
-Cat-Back Mandrel Bent Exhaust

Suspension (Which ONE)
-Springs & Shocks
-Swaybars & Strut Brace

Im not entirely sure where to start. For the engine mods, what CHEAP, but fairly good brands should i look at. Same with the Suspension.

Cheers,
--Tonba
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It all depends on what you want first, sound, speed, looks ? i'd either get the all the most inexpensive stuff done first and then the bigger things later, like the pod and whole exhaust then the suspension, i'd probably chip it too if your doing all that, why not?

Well extractors are pretty useless without a Performance Muffler. Cat-Back Mandrel Bent Exhaust isn't required either since stock piping is already decent & Mandrel Bent anyway.

So I'd get a Lukey Muffler. Mine was like $200 fitted inc Tip. Money well spent IMO :)

Oo im after my 1st performance mods now that my stereo is done will investigate a lurky $200 installed sounds pretty cool

Yeah, go the muffler and keep your stock piping - it's fine. Your 3.0 could gain around 10 HP at the wheels. Then unless you're going to get some decent CAI, I'd get a panel over a pod.

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Greetings All.

Kewl. Thanks for the replys. Ok, so here is my To do list.

-Muffler (magnaflow or lukey)
-Shocks and Springs (not sure what brand yet...IDEAS?)
-Front Grille (make it look better, with some fiber glass bog)
-Extractors (maybe, if so, im not sure whether i should go pacemakers or RPW)

Anways,
Thanks All. Your help is still apreciated.
--Tonba
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id go muffler and panel, cos pod is useless without decent CAI.
then
springs and strut brace.

i'd go muffler and panel, cos pod is useless without decent CAI.
then
springs and strut brace.yep, me too :D and wheels (at least 17's)

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Greetings All.

No, no....when get the pod im going to buy the whole CAI kit from RPW....

Cheers,
--Tonba
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good, then go springs and strut brace. definately strut brace, i reckon its the most worthwhile and value for money handling mod (after springs)

how many k's do you have on your odo? if it's around the 150k mark, you should change spring and shock at the same time. As the shocks are about due to be changed and if you change the springs without changing the shocks, you'll upset the system and the stock shocks will die really quick, so you might as well change both at the same time.

Strut brace is good, you should also get a 20-24mm rear sway bar if you really want to stop it from rolling. But Springs is the primary variable in regards to roll.

in terms of proper CAI and POD ($500+), I think it's money wasted if you are just starting to mod your car. Do the CAI and POD after extractors (~$380 + fitment) and muffler (~$250 + fitment), in the mean time, use Panel ($130). that way you won't lose your low end torque.

do you have a Manual or Auto?
Are your windows tinted?
What colour is your car?
What wheels you got?
got a spoiler yet?
fog lights?
changed head lights blubs yet?
Under car neons ?
Chip or resistor?
Brake rotors? calipers?

how many k's do you have on your odo? if it's around the 150k mark, you should change spring and shock at the same time. As the shocks are about due to be changed and if you change the springs without changing the shocks, you'll upset the system and the stock shocks will die really quick, so you might as well change both at the same time.

Good idea.


Strut brace is good, you should also get a 20-24mm rear sway bar if you really want to stop it from rolling. But Springs is the primary variable in regards to roll.

I'd probably go a strut brace first but both have nice benefits.


in terms of proper CAI and POD ($500+), I think it's money wasted if you are just starting to mod your car. Do the CAI and POD after extractors (~$380 + fitment) and muffler (~$250 + fitment), in the mean time, use Panel ($130). that way you won't lose your low end torque.

Possibly much of a muchness for order. There will be a gain either way but the gain will be more apparent after headers are fitted but it's a cheaper option if you just grab a panel and you don't need to worry about stuffing around with CAI.

Umm... why would a pod lose low rpm torque when compared to a panel? All it is is a filter. They don't do anything different.


Chip or resistor?

*shudders at the thought of using a resister over a chip tuned to the car*

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Greetings All.

Ok, Im definatly getting stuff in this order (Unless you guys think it would be a bad idea);
-Lower & Stiffer Springs, Performance Shocks (Should Stop Me Rolling Untill I Get Swaybars)
-Muffler
-Paint Touched Up lol

Although im still confused on brands.... :redface: :confused:

Oh and for whitedevil;
-Auto
-Windows Not Tinted
-Paint Like A Pinky Silver....hard to explain
-Wheels are the stock 5 spoke 15" they are good enough for now
-I dont really want a spoiler
-No Fog Lights
-When i do change my light bulbs, ill be getting the ones with the blue filter :badgrin:
-No Neons
-Stock Computer
-Stock Brake Rotors, New Brake Pads (Nothing Special)

Cheers,
--Tonba
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Cool, you have a lot of things to do, Have fun with them. :D

Umm... why would a pod lose low rpm torque when compared to a panel? All it is is a filter. They don't do anything different.

the whole intake box and induction has different flow characteristics to a pod straight before the MAF in the engine bay. imo the pod there is getting only hot air, plus its a lot quieter with the panel inside airbox.

I was assuming that there was no CAI and I was comparing an Unsealed POD to Panel with stock intake snorkle.

If you had the money for the Full CAI then we all know it's better with the POD as far away from the Engine as possible, but since I assumed that it was a budget job, I made the assumption that there will not be a full CAI kit.

I was assuming that there was no CAI and I was comparing an Unsealed POD to Panel with stock intake snorkle.

Okay, fair enough.