That's it in a nutshell. We get all the mods on and it goes better soooo we drive it easier.......NOT! we are tempted as it sounds and goes better so we give it the berries a bit. Damn my fuel economy is worse with these mods. No it is probably the nut behind the wheel again lol.
Need to mod the thing b/w the seat and the steering wheel...:)

I don't think Blackstar was flaming anyone. He did post that it was his opinion with all due respect.
If Terry has got 30% better results all power to him and no reason why others shouldn't try the same - that's why AMC exists. However, word of caution, I once owned a Nissan Silvia Q 9turbo) with lots of mods and decided to clean the air sensor one day; I used a special electrical cleaner and didn't touch the sensor. Really bad move. Ended up $300 poorer for a replacement and that was secondhand.

I believe all the mods are worth the small expense and certainly give more power. Trouble is, if you don't drive with a light foot you don't get better economy - damn!

you cant use electrical cleaner/carby cleaner/throttle body cleaner as it might damage it and thats prolly what happened in your case. Thats why i used the specially formulated cleaner made by CRC built to be used or airflow meters without damaging anything
http://www.crcind.com.au/catalogue.nsf/web_brands/MAF+Sensor+Cleaner?openDocument

Need to mod the thing b/w the seat and the steering wheel...:)

hahaha yep depends how you drive obviously too.

As said by others I wasn't flaming anyone, just challenging the 30% claim.

If it's all about saving money and performance then how about....

If you convert to the Impco Sequent 56 Mitsi approved LPG kit:-


-a proven cost saving in excess of 60% per tankful...$25 a tank in Vic at the moment....saving $50 a tank!
-a proven kilowatts at the wheel power increase over premium 98, confirmed on a dyno
-a proven increase in oil life due to zero particulate contamination in LPG fuels
-no warranty issues with modifications
-$2000 govt rebate, so at a tank a week, payback is about 12 months.

As said by others I wasn't flaming anyone, just challenging the 30% claim.

If it's all about saving money and performance then how about....

If you convert to the Impco Sequent 56 Mitsi approved LPG kit:-


-a proven cost saving in excess of 60% per tankful...$25 a tank in Vic at the moment....saving $50 a tank!
-a proven kilowatts at the wheel power increase over premium 98, confirmed on a dyno
-a proven increase in oil life due to zero particulate contamination in LPG fuels
-no warranty issues with modifications
-$2000 govt rebate, so at a tank a week, payback is about 12 months.
Only $1750 rebate now. Dropped $250 recently. I will take anything i can get.

More power than 98??!! Wow!! i can hear big kev now.....

.

More power than 98??!! Wow!! i can hear big kev now.....



That is an absolute definite.

Need to mod the thing b/w the seat and the steering wheel...:)

Feff you are soooo spot on there buddy. It took me 30 years and a child to really settle down. All I used to own were 2 speed cars....stop and flat out. Lucky to be alive let me tell you. The term bloody idiot springs to mind. and now I am a driver who is after economy. Go figure eh?

As said by others I wasn't flaming anyone, just challenging the 30% claim.

If it's all about saving money and performance then how about....

If you convert to the Impco Sequent 56 Mitsi approved LPG kit:-


-a proven cost saving in excess of 60% per tankful...$25 a tank in Vic at the moment....saving $50 a tank!
-a proven kilowatts at the wheel power increase over premium 98, confirmed on a dyno
-a proven increase in oil life due to zero particulate contamination in LPG fuels
-no warranty issues with modifications
-$2000 govt rebate, so at a tank a week, payback is about 12 months.

Blackie I would seriously love to, in fact that is what I planned to do but my head *read the one on the car* is the wrong one so I cant. bugger eh. series 1 vrx

Blackie I would seriously love to, in fact that is what I planned to do but my head *read the one on the car* is the wrong one so I cant. bugger eh. series 1 vrx


matey...just do it anyway.

plenty of cars that easily do 300,000k's before a head refurb.....seriously.

A bit of LPG trivia that isn't well known.

When you get an LPG conversion...find which outlet the cabbies use.

All LPG isn't the same......find an outlet that has 100% Propane.....not the Safeway 4c discount stations unfortunately...LOL

With 100% propane (5c a litre more)...you will get true 110 Octane....and she flies and uses less.

The vapour injectors are drilled into the manifold just before the inlet valves on our kit.

It presents itself as a mild form of boost,because LPG is pressurised, and that's one of the reasons it seems to outperform 98 on the dyno.

Any boost is good, ask Foozrcool...:)

matey...just do it anyway.

plenty of cars that easily do 300,000k's before a head refurb.....seriously.

I am really tempted but I cant get any info on what valves and seats they are running on the VRX. It may not make any difference at all but it could make all the difference, as with the Toyota 4 runner. Heads only lasted a very short time. Not willing to take the chance on it unless someone else is the guinea pig.

A bit of LPG trivia that isn't well known.

When you get an LPG conversion...find which outlet the cabbies use.

All LPG isn't the same......find an outlet that has 100% Propane.....not the Safeway 4c discount stations unfortunately...LOL

With 100% propane (5c a litre more)...you will get true 110 Octane....and she flies and uses less.

The vapour injectors are drilled into the manifold just before the inlet valves on our kit.

It presents itself as a mild form of boost,because LPG is pressurised, and that's one of the reasons it seems to outperform 98 on the dyno.

Any boost is good, ask Foozrcool...:)
Do you know who sells 100% propane in Melbourne?

Do you know who sells 100% propane in Melbourne?

I think from memory there is a place that the cabbies go to in Spencer street.

But just ring any gas installer, they can usually tell you.



I've been told most Supagas outlets can do 100% propane.

http://www.supagas.com.au/retail.htm

http://www.bendigoadvertiser.com.au/news/local/news/general/bad-lpg-bill-climbs/804756.aspx

http://www.fordmods.com/ford-lpg-hydrogen-hho-cng-conversions-f44/propane-v-lpg-interesting-difference-t77124.html

.

Has any one actually asked Mitsi about fitting lpg to the single drilled hole head and got a logical answer,if they cant then why not and if you go ahead and put one on(say the mitsi one Impco Sequent 56 ) what happens to warranty. just curious.

Has any one actually asked Mitsi about fitting lpg to the single drilled hole head and got a logical answer,if they cant then why not and if you go ahead and put one on(say the mitsi one Impco Sequent 56 ) what happens to warranty. just curious.
Yes. They said it did not really matter- valves were not an issue. Not shared by all dealerships though..

I can fit it to an XD falcon and have it run for 500,000k's in a taxi....so a 380 will be just fine.


If the heads need changing in 10 years then just put on the Mivec heads from a Pajero.....:)


Fit the "hoon relay" on the oil line and you'll be giving Fooz and Kj a run for their money...LOL

Has any one actually asked Mitsi about fitting lpg to the single drilled hole head and got a logical answer,if they cant then why not and if you go ahead and put one on(say the mitsi one Impco Sequent 56 ) what happens to warranty. just curious.
I have attempted to get an accurate reason from MMAL but they have not been able to give me one. They haven't even been able to supply what difference there is between the heads. Customer service? What customer service!

Yes. They said it did not really matter- valves were not an issue. Not shared by all dealerships though..
Was this MMAL or a dealer? If MMAL then who told you and what did they say the difference was? PS the hand book states that warranty will be void on the engine if you run LPG on the single hole version.:woot:

I can fit it to an XD falcon and have it run for 500,000k's in a taxi....so a 380 will be just fine.
If the heads need changing in 10 years then just put on the Mivec heads from a Pajero.....:)
Fit the "hoon relay" on the oil line and you'll be giving Fooz and Kj a run for their money...LOL
You cant compare different cars. As pointed out earlier some cars say you cant run LPG on them such as some of the earlier Commodores and they are fine then there are others that say the same, like the 4runner, and they are stuffed in no time. I am glad it works well on the XD but that doesn't mean it will be ok on the 380 and I for one am not prepared to forgo my warranty without all the facts. The economy factor would be nice but it would fall in a screaming heap if you had to pay for a new head!!

I have attempted to get an accurate reason from MMAL but they have not been able to give me one. They haven't even been able to supply what difference there is between the heads. Customer service? What customer service!

Was this MMAL or a dealer? If MMAL then who told you and what did they say the difference was? PS the hand book states that warranty will be void on the engine if you run LPG on the single hole version.:woot:

You cant compare different cars. As pointed out earlier some cars say you cant run LPG on them such as some of the earlier Commodores and they are fine then there are others that say the same, like the 4runner, and they are stuffed in no time. I am glad it works well on the XD but that doesn't mean it will be ok on the 380 and I for one am not prepared to forgo my warranty without all the facts. The economy factor would be nice but it would fall in a screaming heap if you had to pay for a new head!!
It was a dealer- Service manager. I believe that the warranty would be void if the problem was directly caused by the installation of the LPG?
I would do some research... "worst case scenario"... If damage was caused to the valves etc, how much would it cost to repair? Would you get 3 years running first before damage was done? Compare that with the fuel savings you would make (depends on your driving needs of course).
EG. years ago, i bought a vs commodore on gas. I liked the car at the time but knew that Taxi's were Fords for a reason.. Yes the heads did go after 200,000 k's but i dont know when the gas was installed..
I saved close to $2000 a year in fuel costs.. I replaced the VS motor with a VY motor that had done 5k for $2000. This was after i got 3 years out of the VS motor. I have done another 110k with the VY motor on gas. The savings still outweighed the cost of the replacement motor. Need to find out if it would be a similar case with the 380. I suspect that the 380 "worst case scenario" might be more costly though.....

I am just on the phone to a mitsi dealer and have found out that the inlet valves, and seats (both inlet and exhaust) are the same on VRX and the SX, however the exhaust valves are different. Part number on the VRX exhaust valves is MD373855 and the SX is MN163902. They still cant tell me what the difference is or what impact running LPG would have. I have been given a number for Mitsi head orifice 1300131211 and will see if we can make some sense of all this. Stay tuned ...
Edit: Well that was an absolute waste of time and effort. Don't bother using the 1300 number as it is manned by people who are not trained in any technical or mechanical information at all. They referred me back onto a dealer to speak with a technician there. Same answer, just not compatible. I need to do further checks to see if the bearings (read: all bearings including cams) are the same in each motor. If they are the same, as I suspect they are, then there is only one difference. Also mitsi reckon R&R on the heads is 9 hours @ around $100 an hour, then they outsource the work on the head to an engineering workshop.

You cant compare different cars.

Yeah...you can, it all depends on whether you start negative or positive.


As pointed out earlier some cars say you cant run LPG on them such as some of the earlier Commodores and they are fine then there are others that say the same, like the 4runner, and they are stuffed in no time.

How many k's is "no time"...:)



I am glad it works well on the XD but that doesn't mean it will be ok on the 380

true...it may be perfect instead of just "ok"...:)


and I for one am not prepared to forgo my warranty without all the facts.

By the time you've done a head,(if at all), then there will not be any warranty left anyway...and the timer is ticking..


The economy factor would be nice but it would fall in a screaming heap if you had to pay for a new head!!

You'll be able to get a used 380 for $5k same as a Magna in about 3 years by the trend of the resale values so far.

You will still be miles ahead after 12 months.

Just do it matey, you know you want to..

chin up...;)

How about...get the govt rebate and only drive on LPG every tenth tank?
You can force it to stay on petrol you know....:)

I am just on the phone to a mitsi dealer and have found out that the inlet valves, and seats (both inlet and exhaust) are the same on VRX and the SX, however the exhaust valves are different. Part number on the VRX exhaust valves is MD373855 and the SX is MN163902. They still cant tell me what the difference is or what impact running LPG would have. I have been given a number for Mitsi head orifice 1300131211 and will see if we can make some sense of all this. Stay tuned ...
Edit: Well that was an absolute waste of time and effort. Don't bother using the 1300 number as it is manned by people who are not trained in any technical or mechanical information at all. They referred me back onto a dealer to speak with a technician there. Same answer, just not compatible. I need to do further checks to see if the bearings (read: all bearings including cams) are the same in each motor. If they are the same, as I suspect they are, then there is only one difference. Also mitsi reckon R&R on the heads is 9 hours @ around $100 an hour, then they outsource the work on the head to an engineering workshop.
So, it that worse case scenario $900?? If you do 20k per year you would recoup that $900 in 7 months.

So, it that worse case scenario $900?? If you do 20k per year you would recoup that $900 in 7 months.

+ parts + what the automotive engineering group do. Could go out to 2k easy.

Just do it matey, you know you want to..

chin up...;)

How about...get the govt rebate and only drive on LPG every tenth tank?
You can force it to stay on petrol you know....:)

I know but I like to do my homework and know what I am in for if you know what I mean

So any one put any thought into lowering the drag co-effecient to make the car more slippery

MMC did with the EVO via Vortex generators

I am thinking about putting one on the 380

http://www.fuelsavers.com.au/ Aussie and they can paint it to match the car and it is proven tech

Just FYI, the Vortex generators on Evos do SFA.

Just FYI, the Vortex generators on Evos do SFA.

They might at 240km/hr?

Mecha you may as well put diffusers under the rear as well :gfight:

Ok for something completely different,my economy was at about 12-12.5 after fittimg 90mm intake and was like that for awhile ,now my issue, after putting new rims on (18x8,245 45 18)the rolling dia is slightly larger,my economy has gone to 13.5 -14 is the trip computer in some way controlled by speedo running faster,just weired am going the same way to and from work and at the same times go figure

Ok for something completely different,my economy was at about 12-12.5 after fittimg 90mm intake and was like that for awhile ,now my issue, after putting new rims on (18x8,245 45 18)the rolling dia is slightly larger,my economy has gone to 13.5 -14 is the trip computer in some way controlled by speedo running faster,just weired am going the same way to and from work and at the same times go figure

You have changed your gearing making it more effort to get moving, the wheel/tyre combo is maybe heavier as well & the wider tyre more wind resistance. Also the change in gearing would be registering less kms than actually travelled ie worse fuel economy.

You have changed your gearing making it more effort to get moving, the wheel/tyre combo is maybe heavier as well & the wider tyre more wind resistance. Also the change in gearing would be registering less kms than actually travelled ie worse fuel economy.

Well there is a price one way or another to looking good.lol.

Has anyone else experienced a spike in their economy after fitting larger rims, in particular if they are the same rolling diameter as standard.

After fitting larger rims i found I could launch harder, stop harder, corner harder.

So yeah...not so much a spike as a plateau higher up...and it hasn't come down.

Currently sitting on about 15 L /100km...city,highway...makes no difference.

60L=400k's (that is LPG of course...:))

After fitting larger rims i found I could launch harder, stop harder, corner harder.

So yeah...not so much a spike as a plateau higher up...and it hasn't come down.

Currently sitting on about 15 L /100km...city,highway...makes no difference.

60L=400k's (that is LPG of course...:))

What is your average speed over a tank? I think mine is around 60

What is your average speed over a tank? I think mine is around 60

Very interesting matey.. I never thought of using average speed to explain % of city/highway driving.

Has anyone else experienced a spike in their economy after fitting larger rims, in particular if they are the same rolling diameter as standard.

No change whatsoever (and mine are same rolling diameter), but as Blackstar said, way better from a grip POV.

Very interesting matey.. I never thought of using average speed to explain % of city/highway driving.

Thats the best way i reckon!

my average speed is round 30-40

and why do I always get flamed for thinking outside of the box??:kb:

my average speed is about 45 over a tan with a trip computer fuel efficiency of ~13 l/100kms.
on a trip down south i had it down to about 9 but by the end of the tank was up to around 11. noticed small good change by putting the 90ml intake on but this was cancelled out when i put the 20"s on. either that or neither of those two affected it at all!

Checking the write-up on those Vortex Generators reminded me of Brock's infamous Energy Polariser... ...
No change in anything, that I recall, when upgrading my 16s to 19s (same rolling diameter though).
I've checked my average speed a few times... seems to be around 55km/h (that's at fill up where previous info is deleted), and I average 10.2-10.6 - although after discussing ethanol and octane levels in other threads, I have noticed I get the best economy from using non-ethanol 91 fuel from Shell. Any time I use anything with ethanol, the economy always rises regardless of my mostly-unchanging driving style.

my average speed is round 30-40

and why do I always get flamed for thinking outside of the box??:kb:
I don't flame you! thinking out side the box is where great ideas come from. Remember great people always had critics.....the earth is flat etc. Roll on creative thinking Mecha!!

my average speed is about 45 over a tan with a trip computer fuel efficiency of ~13 l/100kms.
on a trip down south i had it down to about 9 but by the end of the tank was up to around 11. noticed small good change by putting the 90ml intake on but this was cancelled out when i put the 20"s on. either that or neither of those two affected it at all!
Is there any difference in the rolling diameter of the 20's? This could explain the figures a bit.

Checking the write-up on those Vortex Generators reminded me of Brock's infamous Energy Polariser... ...
No change in anything, that I recall, when upgrading my 16s to 19s (same rolling diameter though).
I've checked my average speed a few times... seems to be around 55km/h (that's at fill up where previous info is deleted), and I average 10.2-10.6 - although after discussing ethanol and octane levels in other threads, I have noticed I get the best economy from using non-ethanol 91 fuel from Shell. Any time I use anything with ethanol, the economy always rises regardless of my mostly-unchanging driving style.
Found the same with ethanol and wont use it again unless there is some 100 stuff around. Just out of interest if anyone wants to log their next tank with L/100k, average speed, total km's and type of driving and post them here. May show some interesting trends.

Is there any difference in the rolling diameter of the 20's? This could explain the figures a bit.

1010tires calculator says the circumference is larger by 35mm (new-2134mm v 17" Gts 2099mm) on the 245/35/20. so yes this probably does make up some of the difference but id guess the weight plays some part too as the new ones are heavy as!

That will make alot of difference. I dont know the regs in WA but just be careful with the size as being that far over standard will get you defected in NSW and QLD (but you probably already know all that eh?). Nice pic too mate. Like the wheels and the "draggin the bum along the road" look.

You have changed your gearing making it more effort to get moving, the wheel/tyre combo is maybe heavier as well & the wider tyre more wind resistance. Also the change in gearing would be registering less kms than actually travelled ie worse fuel economy.


I believe the only one of these factors which might effect fuel economy to a detectable degree is the change in gearing due to the change in overall tyre/wheel circumference. And even then, it's more likely to be the trip computer that is giving an erroneous reading rather than a real change in fuel economy. Does anyone know for sure exactly how a 380 trip computer calculates fuel economy? Does it measure wheel rotations at all? Or does it measure distance travelled accurately? If it measures fuel economy using the same readings & parameters that the speedo uses to measures speed, then yes the trip computer fuel economy willl be thrown out. But that's only the fuel economy according to a now inaccurate trip computer, not the real fuel economy.

Sorry Fooz, but I really cant see how a slightly bigger/wider/lower profile tyre could make anything other than an infinitely small difference to wind resistance such that it would effect fuel economy. As for wheel/tyre weight, even if each wheel tyre combo weighed 5kg more than the previous combo (and I reckon that's really stretching it), that's only 20kg more all up, and in a 1700kg car 20kg would make so little difference to fuel economy you couldn't measure it.

My 2c worth.

KJ.

1010tires calculator says the circumference is larger by 35mm (new-2134mm v 17" Gts 2099mm) on the 245/35/20. so yes this probably does make up some of the difference but id guess the weight plays some part too as the new ones are heavy as!


.

I reckon Mitsi can change that in the ECU settings on next service.


ECU counts speedo transducer pulses and multiplies by injector delivery pulses to get fuel volume used and distance travelled.

Obviously it will be out by around about 1L/100km.

What is your average speed over a tank? I think mine is around 60

I have done a long term check a few months ago.

over a month I average about 75 km/h....(over say 5 tanks)

Stock Tire - 215/55R17 >Search Tires Tire 1 - 245/35R20 >Search Tires
Section Width: 8.46 in 215 mm
Section Width: 9.64 in 245 mm

Rim Diameter: 17 in 431.8 mm
Rim Diameter: 20 in 508 mm

Rim Width Range: 6 - 7.5 in
Rim Width Range: 8 - 9.5 in

Overall Diameter: 26.31 in 668.27 mm
Overall Diameter: 26.75 in 679.45 mm

Sidewall Height: 4.65 in 118.11 mm
Sidewall Height: 3.37 in 85.598 mm

Radius: 13.15 in 334.01 mm
Radius: 13.37 in 339.59 mm

Circumference: 82.65 in 2099.3 mm
Circumference: 84.03 in 2134.3 mm

Revs per Mile: 790.5
Revs per Mile: 777.5

Actual Speed: 60 mph 100 km/h
Speedometer1: 59.0 mph 98.3 km/h

Speedometer Difference: - Speedometer Difference: 1.672% too slow
Diameter Difference: - Diameter Difference: 1.65%


is a copy and paste. (read in groups of two first figure being the stockand second being the 20s.)
the speedo is almost perfect, ive gone past those info speed gun on cruise at both 60 and 80 and been dead on the money unfortunately i never went past one on the stock tyres and cruise so im not sure if this was the case before.
according to the calculator above pretty much the only cyre with/profile i could get that would be closer to stock is a 235/35 but i think (please correct me if im wrong) this is an uncommon tyre combination and quite expensive?

oops...my maths must be under the affluence of inkahol....thanks mate. :)

I have done a long term check a few months ago.

over a month I average about 75 km/h....(over say 5 tanks)

That is a healthy average!! What was the l/100 on that?

1010tires calculator says the circumference is larger by 35mm (new-2134mm v 17" Gts 2099mm) on the 245/35/20. so yes this probably does make up some of the difference but id guess the weight plays some part too as the new ones are heavy as!

Sry Stormie my bad on that one. I misread the circumference to read diameter. If it is 35mm out in diameter then it would be a lot. Circumference isn't so bad.

yeah mine is 11.8 with average speed of 65km/h but my 120km round trip to work and back is all hwy 100km/h except for the tunnels and westgate bridge. but my tyres are wearing out really quickly im only getting around 25-30,000 kms out of a set. 245/35/19 :(

That is low km for the tyres. Any idea why that may be :hmm: That seems really high L/100km for all 100 km/h zone. How hard are you driving it to do that?

I've got 20,000 on mine, same size (Falkens), still has some left to give (I hope another 20,000).

You got the FK-452's Dave?

You got the FK-452's Dave?

No, the 451s (Knotched has 452 as I recall).

Getting 13-14l/100 average speed 30-32km all city driving,hence crap economy I recon

Getting 13-14l/100 average speed 30-32km all city driving,hence crap economy I recon

That'll explain your economy. 30-40 is slooooooow.lol

yeah mine is 11.8 with average speed of 65km/h but my 120km round trip to work and back is all hwy 100km/h except for the tunnels and westgate bridge. but my tyres are wearing out really quickly im only getting around 25-30,000 kms out of a set. 245/35/19 :(

:eek2:
I feel for you mate.

I think my work trip is the same but my numbers are completely different; go figure.

My Falkens get replaced every ~ 50 000km, my average speed is 71kmh for a fuel economy of 8.6l/100km.

Grubco,

What's the difference? I didn't know there was a 451...

:eek2:
I feel for you mate.

I think my work trip is the same but my numbers are completely different; go figure.

My Falkens get replaced every ~ 50 000km, my average speed is 71kmh for a fuel economy of 8.6l/100km.

Grubco,

What's the difference? I didn't know there was a 451...

50,000 eh? That'd be great.
I didn't know there was a 451 or 452 or anything... I just asked for Falkens (as I've had them on a few of my previous cars) and they got 451s for me, but when they found they only had 2 451s left they asked if I wanted 2 or 4 452s instead (but they cost a lot more, about 40-50 bucks each I think). So I waited for them to order more 451s and went with them instead. They said I should get around 35,000 if they're rotated every 5,000, which I have been doing.

:eek2:
I feel for you mate.

I think my work trip is the same but my numbers are completely different; go figure.

My Falkens get replaced every ~ 50 000km, my average speed is 71kmh for a fuel economy of 8.6l/100km.

Grubco,

What's the difference? I didn't know there was a 451...

452 replaced the 451. treadwear is slightly more on the 451 @280 and 300 for the 452. Both good tyres.
Edit: Aww heck just noticed we were in economy not tyres. You guys are leading me astray again!! lol

OK on my last tank using shell regular unleaded I got 9L/100k over 580 km @ average speed of 70 kph. Of course this shows that I dont do a lot of stop start city stuff and a fair amount of open road travel, but there is also a great variance in speed zones up and down which take a toll on economy too. What about everyone else?

we drove a toyota kluger 4wd today from laverton to watsonia and back twice today with 5 people on baord and it averaged 8.8l/100ks :wtf: its a 3.5l with 201kw but its rated at 11l/100ks might have to can the territory :(

Yep The territory is not light on the juice that's for sure!! But the Kluger's figures sound really low for a large urban assault vehicle!!

we drove a toyota kluger 4wd today from laverton to watsonia and back twice today with 5 people on baord and it averaged 8.8l/100ks :wtf: its a 3.5l with 201kw but its rated at 11l/100ks might have to can the territory :(

It's all down to the engine. It's a Lexus motor after all. You'll find the Aurion will return low 7's on the highway with its 6 speed auto. Pity the Kluger didn't get the 6 speed. Thing I don't like about the Kluger is how damn big it is. It's freakin enormous!

I find that wind direction makes a massive difference to fuel economy on a trip. Anyone else??

I find that wind direction makes a massive difference to fuel economy on a trip. Anyone else??
YEP, not to mention hills I dont know if any of you have driven on NZ roads before but they are:eeek:

YEP, not to mention hills I dont know if any of you have driven on NZ roads before but they are:eeek:
Yes done that.. Agreed.

Filled up today tank was really low and it cost $29 of LPG (59L)

Getting 400k to a tank still, or about 15L/100km...but thats mashing the pedal to the floor at most traffic lights.

Filled up today tank was really low and it cost $29 of LPG (59L)

Getting 400k to a tank still, or about 15L/100km...but thats mashing the pedal to the floor at most traffic lights.

How did you get 59L in? I filled up this morning from empty and only got 49L. Cost me $23 and got 405km. 12.28 l/100km. Avg speed 53.50Kph. Occasional bursts but generally normal driving.
For the extra 2.5l per 100k's its worth the mash.

I find that wind direction makes a massive difference to fuel economy on a trip. Anyone else??

Heck yeah!! It makes a massive difference. Esp if you are towing or driving a truck that has all the aerodynamics of a house brick (or an older Volvo, same diff lol).

650-690 km per tank here.

How did you get 59L in? I filled up this morning from empty and only got 49L. Cost me $23 and got 405km. 12.28 l/100km. Avg speed 53.50Kph. Occasional bursts but generally normal driving.
For the extra 2.5l per 100k's its worth the mash.

aghh damn, sorry...typo mate, meant to say 59c/L..( I use the 100% pure propane stuff)

aghh damn, sorry...typo mate, meant to say 59c/L..( I use the 100% pure propane stuff)

I have been told by a LPG installer up our way that UNIGAS supplies 100% propane. They have a site that tells you the closest station for it too.
http://www.unigas.com.au/index.php?option=com_wrapper&view=wrapper&Itemid=25

aghh damn, sorry...typo mate, meant to say 59c/L..( I use the 100% pure propane stuff)

So you still got 400k's using 49L and mashing the pedal? Thats more like 12l/100km. I should be getting better economy because im not driving it like i stole it....

I have been told by a LPG installer up our way that UNIGAS supplies 100% propane. They have a site that tells you the closest station for it too.
http://www.unigas.com.au/index.php?option=com_wrapper&view=wrapper&Itemid=25
Does it say anywhere in the website about being 100% propane. I couldnt see it.

So you still got 400k's using 49L and mashing the pedal? Thats more like 12l/100km. I should be getting better economy because im not driving it like i stole it....


nah mate, it's 15l/100km or more, cause I use the kickdown to unleaded...often, well actually very often...:)

To get the most accurate readings, I think I will fill up using the exact same pump and around the same time of day.

Yes, I know........:think::doubt:

It is amazing how much the weather conditions can affect fuel economy. On a drive up to Brisbane from Sydney, I averaged 6.8l/100km (iirc!) in perfect still conditions the whole way. On the way back was torrential rain and wind for around 15 hours. Even though average speed had dropped to 80kmh, fuel consumption was up around the 9's.

It is amazing how much the weather conditions can affect fuel economy. On a drive up to Brisbane from Sydney, I averaged 6.8l/100km (iirc!) in perfect still conditions the whole way. On the way back was torrential rain and wind for around 15 hours. Even though average speed had dropped to 80kmh, fuel consumption was up around the 9's.
Yeah, when you ride a bike with the wind and then against, you realize how much more energy is used up getting through when going against.. You dont really 'feel' it when driving.

Does it say anywhere in the website about being 100% propane. I couldnt see it.

I have confirmed that all gas supplied by Unigas in NSW is 100% propane. I have also learnt a lot in the process. We know that 100% propane is more efficient, what I didn't know (I may be the only one here but I will stick my ignorant neck out) is that Unigas derive all their LPG from natural gas hence the propane whereas if you buy your LPG from any Caltex or BP or any others supplied by an oil refiner, you will be getting a product derived from crude oil where apparently they boil the crude and extract the gas (propane and butane) from there. I guess that is why there is such a variation in LPG. I have also found out that any gas from Santos or Origin is also 100% propane. I have been told that Santos may cover SA. BTW Unigas is part of Elgas who are owned by BOC. I have the email add of the person I spoke to at Unigas if anyone wants further info. I wont post it here pls PM me for it.
Cheers

I have confirmed that all gas supplied by Unigas in NSW is 100% propane. I have also learnt a lot in the process. We know that 100% propane is more efficient, what I didn't know (I may be the only one here but I will stick my ignorant neck out) is that Unigas derive all their LPG from natural gas hence the propane whereas if you buy your LPG from any Caltex or BP or any others supplied by an oil refiner, you will be getting a product derived from crude oil where apparently they boil the crude and extract the gas (propane and butane) from there. I guess that is why there is such a variation in LPG. I have also found out that any gas from Santos or Origin is also 100% propane. I have been told that Santos may cover SA. BTW Unigas is part of Elgas who are owned by BOC. I have the email add of the person I spoke to at Unigas if anyone wants further info. I wont post it here pls PM me for it.
Cheers
My installer said he used 100% for a while then stopped cos it was really for racing and not that beneficial for everyday driving. Or something along those lines anyway.

My installer said he used 100% for a while then stopped cos it was really for racing and not that beneficial for everyday driving. Or something along those lines anyway.
I would def ask more questions about that from other sources as from what I have heard it is more economical. For racing eh? Must mean higher octane rating=more power.

I would def ask more questions about that from other sources as from what I have heard it is more economical. For racing eh? Must mean higher octane rating=more power.
Exactly... More power all right but for normal driving there is not as much benefit.

Exactly... More power all right but for normal driving there is not as much benefit.

Less chance of pre-ignition, particularly if you have forced induction.

Less chance of pre-ignition, particularly if you have forced induction.

Ah yes. Just like 98 vs 91 with Unleaded petrol.. Makes sense.

Guys need advise car was running around 12.5/13 for quite awhile , now over a period of about 6 weeks has been creaping up to around 14l/100,went to dealer and other than putting it on test sugested removing negative on battery and see what happens and clean map sensor also , also started to notice engine noise inside cabin more, like idleing higher or something.what made me ask now is that today after getting to work checked l/100 and it said 15.2 WTF. any thoughts welcome

might just be me but ive noticed that as the various oils in the car get older, the car get progressively worse mileage. though not usually that extreme, might be part of the problem ho

Guys need advise car was running around 12.5/13 for quite awhile , now over a period of about 6 weeks has been creaping up to around 14l/100,went to dealer and other than putting it on test sugested removing negative on battery and see what happens and clean map sensor also , also started to notice engine noise inside cabin more, like idleing higher or something.what made me ask now is that today after getting to work checked l/100 and it said 15.2 WTF. any thoughts welcome

Dirty air filtre? Injectors slowly clogging? Different fuel outlet used?

might just be me but ive noticed that as the various oils in the car get older, the car get progressively worse mileage. though not usually that extreme, might be part of the problem ho

Only been serviced about 6k ago maybe I do an oil change aswell


Dirty air filtre? Injectors slowly clogging? Different fuel outlet used?

Yea might be will check filter when I clean sensor,always use shell and from same station,might put injector cleaner in also any suggestions of brand.

I used wyns spitfire at the same time as disconnecting - terminal on battery. Economy seemed to improve b/w 5-10%. Push it harder than usual though to pressurize the cleaner through the injectors a bit.

Guys need advise car was running around 12.5/13 for quite awhile , now over a period of about 6 weeks has been creaping up to around 14l/100,went to dealer and other than putting it on test sugested removing negative on battery and see what happens and clean map sensor also , also started to notice engine noise inside cabin more, like idleing higher or something.what made me ask now is that today after getting to work checked l/100 and it said 15.2 WTF. any thoughts welcome

What sort of driving are you doing Bitsa? Have you checked your air filter since the dust storms? That is always a good and cheap place to start. It sounds like the problem is getting progressively worse. Have you noticed any drop in power? This may be an injector issue or even a vacuum hose come off somewhere. It is so hard to tell from a distance. Point the engine noise out to the dealer as well. They should be able to plug into the OBD port and check everything on the diagnostics. 15.2 is very high!!
As for the oil. Old oil can make a difference but you shouldn't let it get to that stage as it is past its use by date by then.

What sort of driving are you doing Bitsa? Have you checked your air filter since the dust storms? That is always a good and cheap place to start. It sounds like the problem is getting progressively worse. Have you noticed any drop in power? This may be an injector issue or even a vacuum hose come off somewhere. It is so hard to tell from a distance. Point the engine noise out to the dealer as well. They should be able to plug into the OBD port and check everything on the diagnostics. 15.2 is very high!!
As for the oil. Old oil can make a difference but you shouldn't let it get to that stage as it is past its use by date by then.

What sort of driving I hear you ask,like a bloody grandad with those figures at the moment,but normally drive conservatively (been there done that with the going fast stuff,settled down mode now) the major problem is to get to work I have to go through or around the city which doesnt help but shouldnt be this bad.checked all visable hoses and they all seem on ,going to look at filter/clean sensor/put injecctor cleaner on the weekend and see what happens.The dealer did say that if it continued they would plug it in and check everything , he said take about 1.5 hours so hopefully its an indepth assesment. only time (and petrol money) will tell from now on.
oh I dream for your numbers

I would get around 14 or 15 on start,stop short trips.
9 ish on a long run. probably average overall 11 or 12.
I am not a 'grandad' style driver at all even though I am one LOL
:nuts:
I once returned 11+ on a 400k trip and mentioned it to my mechanic. he disconnected/reconnected the battery and on my way home from the garage, within minutes I was reading 9.7. He also did a diagnostic and found no errors.

What sort of driving I hear you ask,like a bloody grandad with those figures at the moment,but normally drive conservatively (been there done that with the going fast stuff,settled down mode now) the major problem is to get to work I have to go through or around the city which doesnt help but shouldnt be this bad.checked all visable hoses and they all seem on ,going to look at filter/clean sensor/put injecctor cleaner on the weekend and see what happens.The dealer did say that if it continued they would plug it in and check everything , he said take about 1.5 hours so hopefully its an indepth assesment. only time (and petrol money) will tell from now on.
oh I dream for your numbers
Have you checked the economy figures apart from the trip computer? ie km's since full tank then filling again?

What sort of driving I hear you ask,like a bloody grandad with those figures at the moment,but normally drive conservatively (been there done that with the going fast stuff,settled down mode now) the major problem is to get to work I have to go through or around the city which doesnt help but shouldnt be this bad.checked all visable hoses and they all seem on ,going to look at filter/clean sensor/put injecctor cleaner on the weekend and see what happens.The dealer did say that if it continued they would plug it in and check everything , he said take about 1.5 hours so hopefully its an indepth assesment. only time (and petrol money) will tell from now on.
oh I dream for your numbers

I would strongly suggest that you leave the sensor to the dealer and if he stuffs it he replaces it. I would also insist (very nicely and diplomatically, Blackstar) that he plugs it in and checks it for you. 1.5 hours he must be kidding. That is probably how long he wants you to leave the car with him for!!

Have you checked the economy figures apart from the trip computer? ie km's since full tank then filling again?

will give it ago cheers

Try undoing every mod you have done, especially the air cleaner if you have changed it.

I have a spare AFR assembly if you want to borrow it....don't try cleaning yours, it might stuff up.

As Blackie says I wouldn't stuff around with any of your sensors, leave that for the Mitsi boys. Is there anything that you did that was new or different or anything that happened just prior to the economy going down hill?

The only mod done was 90 intake ages ago so cant really see that being an issue,will take your advise and let dealer clean sensor as has been said if the dealer stuff it they replace it. Took engine cover of today doesn't seem to be loose hoses or staining from fuel leak,but funny enough left cover of and seemed to run marginally better,might leave it of for a bit and see what happens.Maybe might just need to give it a good long run and clean out some cobwebs.Like i said before will check filter and put through some injector cleaner(no sensor cleaner)give her a run and then re-asses,still think will get dealer to look at next week and do diagnostic .thanks guys for your help and advise.
will let you know what happens.

I suppose you've already checked...are fluid levels...water...oil etc all okay?

Are brakes getting really hot? ( in case they are dragging)


Is handbrake too tight?

It auto trans fluid level okay and correct colour?


Do wheels turn freely (wheel bearings okay?)

Gears changes nice and smooth?

[QUOTE=Blackstar;1146622]I suppose you've already checked...are fluid levels...water...oil etc all okay?

Are brakes getting really hot? ( in case they are dragging)Other than touching then there is no smell of brakes cooking

Is handbrake too tight?will check

It auto trans fluid level okay and correct colour?will check

Do wheels turn freely (wheel bearings okay?)very easily no forceing,bearings checked when rims put on

Gears changes nice and smooth?yes a lot better after battery disconect

I removed my engine cover a while ago and have left it off as it is just a heat trap. I would be surprised if others haven't done this too. I would be straight onto the air filter without delay to see what that is like. A clogged air filter will bump your economy heaps and drop power.

I removed my engine cover a while ago and have left it off as it is just a heat trap. I would be surprised if others haven't done this too.

One of the first things I did.

One of the first things I did.

Me too!!!

OH the old removing of the engine cover dicussion again aye??? Some of you long term members will remember the harrassment I recieved not so long ago:eek2:

Tank Fill today as follows. Details from trip computer.
11.4L/100kms
54.1km/hr Average Speed
58.7 litres
515 total Kms

That is not too bad for average 51 kph. I wonder what the guys that are getting 12's and 13's average.

My each way trip is 17Kms. with the last 7kms at 80km/hr. I usually average around the 10 - 11 l/100k depending on if I have a long trip thrown in the mix.

That is not too bad for average 51 kph. I wonder what the guys that are getting 12's and 13's average.

just wwent and grabbed the numbers for ya.
about to go fill up,
on vanilla unleaded,
59.8L
14.2 L/100Km
422.3 Km
35.7 Average Speed
With a range of 20Km in the tank.

bit of an exceptional tank, as its lasted almost 2 weeks, (13days) where i normally get 6/8days because ive driven lots more short trips to work and back 3/4km either way with 4 sets of lights and 60km speed limit the whole way normally these a replaced by some trips to uni which is about 10km with four sets of lights and a freeway run against the peak hour traffic. normally get 12/13

I am averaging 10.9 l/100km with an average speed of 53.3kmh. Running on 98 octane for the last 2 months now.

It is quite obvious that this is no eco-commuter-special, but when you get it going on the open rd it really comes into its own. I haven't done an unfettered trip in mine yet, always seem to be towing a camper.

Filled up today (using Shell 91, I gave up on the 100)

10.7L/100kms
55.1km/hr Average Speed
53 litres
393 total Kms

Filled up today (using Shell 91, I gave up on the 100)

10.7L/100kms
55.1km/hr Average Speed
53 litres
393 total Kms

Not sure what's going on there, but 53 litres used, with 393 kms driven = 13.5L/100km.

Not sure what's going on there, but 53 litres used, with 393 kms driven = 13.5L/100km.

Oops, wrong receipt (long and boring story)
Should read 40.22L/100KM

Oops, wrong receipt (long and boring story)
Should read 40.22L/100KM

lol good correction.
i think ill keep my 14/100km!

Oops, wrong receipt (long and boring story)
Should read 40.22L/100KM

40.22????? :roflwtf:

Oops, wrong receipt (long and boring story)
Should read 40.22L/100KM

You aren't going too well mate are you? :woot:

40.22L used, 393kms travelled = 10.2L/100km.

S*#t I must be having one of those days.....

10.7L/100kms
55.1km/hr Average Speed
40.22 litres
393 total Kms

S*#t I must be having one of those days.....

10.7L/100kms
55.1km/hr Average Speed
40.22 litres
393 total Kms

Looks like your trip computer is reading a little high.

You aren't going too well mate are you? :woot:

40.22L used, 393kms travelled = 10.2L/100km.

Yeah you're right with those numbers. I always calculate it myself, and have noticed the car figures always a bit out. That is, my calculation (like yours) also shows 10.2, but dash reading showed 10.7.
Incidentally, I have kept a running spreadsheet of all my fill-ups since I bought the 380 (only km's used, and litres filled) and overall average now is 10.58L/100KM.

Come on grubco just one more post for the grand total of 1000

Yeah you're right with those numbers. I always calculate it myself, and have noticed the car figures always a bit out. That is, my calculation (like yours) also shows 10.2, but dash reading showed 10.7.
Incidentally, I have kept a running spreadsheet of all my fill-ups since I bought the 380 (only km's used, and litres filled) and overall average now is 10.58L/100KM.

10.58L/100km overall average is bloody good mate. While I haven't kept detailed logs like you, I'd say my TL since I bought it (I've put about 15,000kms on it now) would have averaged somewhere around the same, maybe a bit less, but 95% of that was all highway driving from Sunshine Coast to Morayfield and back for work (130km round trip) So for the 380 to average the same is quite impressive really, considering the bigger engine, being heavier, more comfortable, more power, more torque, etc etc.

Come on grubco just one more post for the grand total of 1000

Woohoo, 1000 posts!!! (only took me 5 years...)
So that I don't get busted for spamming (had 1 warning already), I'd better add some numbers...
Best tank was 9.43L/100KM running Shell 91. Worst tank was 12.78L/100KM running BP 100.

10.58L/100km overall average is bloody good mate. While I haven't kept detailed logs like you, I'd say my TL since I bought it (I've put about 15,000kms on it now) would have averaged somewhere around the same, maybe a bit less, but 95% of that was all highway driving from Sunshine Coast to Morayfield and back for work (130km round trip) So for the 380 to average the same is quite impressive really, considering the bigger engine, being heavier, more comfortable, more power, more torque, etc etc.
I'm lucky that my driving is mostly on the M4 Motorway (from Blacktown to Lane Cove, ~40km) so I can sit on 110km/h with no traffic at 5am and 3pm (unless working late til 5pm in which case there is indeed traffic, so scratch that one). Plus I don't use it on weekends at all (that's wife's car time), and its never been loaded with people; I just pick up my son from daycare but that's it.

I'm lucky that my driving is mostly on the M4 Motorway (from Blacktown to Lane Cove, ~40km) so I can sit on 110km/h with no traffic at 5am and 3pm (unless working late til 5pm in which case there is indeed traffic, so scratch that one). Plus I don't use it on weekends at all, and its never been loaded with people; I just pick up my son from daycare but that's it.

Well Grubco, you are pretty much in the same or better position than me.

Except I'm getting 8.6L/100kmh including some traffic around Brisbane Airport - traffic jams around Nudgee going north.
Even then, it rises to 9.1
If I tried I know I could get 8.4 or better but I can't help clearing the injectors accelerating onto the Bruce Highway.

I know I sound like a scratched CD but a chip will really pay off.

Hey Richard,

I find in my TL if I travel at 100km/h on those sections of the Bruce Highway, my fuel consumption will drop to around 8.2-8.5L/100km, but as soon as it gets back to 110km/h, my consumption goes back to 9.0-9.2L/100km. I wonder if this premise has anything to do with the readings you're getting? Or are your readings much the same at 110km/h also?

Hey Richard,

I find in my TL if I travel at 100km/h on those sections of the Bruce Highway, my fuel consumption will drop to around 8.2-8.5L/100km, but as soon as it gets back to 110km/h, my consumption goes back to 9.0-9.2L/100km. I wonder if this premise has anything to do with the readings you're getting? Or are your readings much the same at 110km/h also?

If I just drive conservatively using CC at 108-9kmh (speed camera avoidance) I get an easy 8.6. That means keeping a light throttle in traffic around the airport as well.
If I drop the cruising speed to 105 I get 8.4, which I've done a couple of times so it's repeatable. Trouble is I get passed by too many B doubles that throw stones so I prefer slightly faster.
The readings have been consistent over the life of two fuel senders.

Must be in the tune then! Quite impressive.

Must be in the tune then! Quite impressive.

Not as good as your Ralliart and not as fast. Wish i'd had a chance to drive that now...

Just going back through my dockets to verify the figures-
best result was 58L for 690km = 8.4L/100kmh

Not as good as your Ralliart and not as fast. Wish i'd had a chance to drive that now...

Just going back through my dockets to verify the figures-
best result was 58L for 690km = 8.4L/100kmh

Surely yours would run a high 14, Richard? Your economy is certainly better than my old Ralliart. It would get mid to high 8's on the highway.

Surely yours would run a high 14, Richard?

To be honest, I think it would. Without going into details I've had a run with a friend's manual RX8 while moving, but my car needs a driver who actually has technique and skill to get it off the line without leaving most of the front tyres smeared behind.

Well Grubco, you are pretty much in the same or better position than me.

Except I'm getting 8.6L/100kmh including some traffic around Brisbane Airport - traffic jams around Nudgee going north.
Even then, it rises to 9.1
If I tried I know I could get 8.4 or better but I can't help clearing the injectors accelerating onto the Bruce Highway.

I know I sound like a scratched CD but a chip will really pay off.

What were you getting before the chip? How did you get it tuned? Power or economy or both

What were you getting before the chip? How did you get it tuned? Power or economy or both

Both actually.

I have two maps;

1. Max advance for BP Ultimate = 147KW ATW
2. reduced advance for 91 RON = 140KW ATW

I always run on the second map and my results are from that. Although you'd think the better advance map would give better fuel economy, there really is little difference because the power curves only start differing above 3000rpm, not in the cruising range.

I cant believe how organised you guys (Rich & Dave) are keeping fuel receipts!!!! Mine go in the bin as I walk out of the servo.

I cant believe how organised you guys (Rich & Dave) are keeping fuel receipts!!!! Mine go in the bin as I walk out of the servo.
The only time i didnt keep the receipt, i got a suspect batch of gas...

So now.............................

Both actually.

I have two maps;

1. Max advance for BP Ultimate = 147KW ATW
2. reduced advance for 91 RON = 140KW ATW

I always run on the second map and my results are from that. Although you'd think the better advance map would give better fuel economy, there really is little difference because the power curves only start differing above 3000rpm, not in the cruising range.

Did you know what the power was before the chip? Was it very noticeable the difference in driving?

I cant believe how organised you guys (Rich & Dave) are keeping fuel receipts!!!! Mine go in the bin as I walk out of the servo.

Receipts are kept until entered into tracking Spreadsheet. My 380 is Leased so I have to record mileage fuel usage etc..

just for interest's sake, here's my economy figures... haven't recorded every tank but I try to record kms per tank and total fuel purchased at each fill - actual economy is always about 0.5 L/100km less than the trip meter indicates...

91 ron: 424.80km / 58.22L = 13.71 L/100km
98 ron: 358.00km / 51.14L = 14.28 L/100km
98 ron: 406.30km / 56.35L = 13.87 L/100km
91 ron: 394.60km / 56.11L = 14.23 L/100km
98 ron: 281.00km / 38.72L = 13.78 L/100km
98 ron: 391.20km / 50.51L = 12.91 L/100km
-----------------------------------------
TOTAL TO THIS POINT: 2255.90km /311.05L = 13.79 L/100km (all at approx 32 - 35 km/h average speed)
-----------------------------------------
car started idling rougher about here - haven't been able to track the cause yet...
98 ron: 388.10km / 58.30L = 15.02 L/100km
added Galant intake snorkel, cleaned air filter & maf sensor
98 ron: 303.00km / 43.67L = 14.41 L/100km @ 35.4 kmh avg

I really wanted to see the next tank figure but the wife filled it up before me, didn't keep the receipt and used 91 octane. So far according to the trip meter, the last 1.5-ish tanks/600-ish kays have been at 13.9, so maybe 13.4 in reality (at about 36 kmh avg).

Overall, not bad economy for the low average speed... although my last car (vz commodore) averaged 12.88L/100km for the 3400 or so km i recorded over the same type of roads and driving style (inner suburbs, not much freeway driving, generally fairly gentle driving with the occasional hard squirt for fun factor)

Did you know what the power was before the chip? Was it very noticeable the difference in driving?

Both Foozr and I chipped around the same time (it was a race for the first auto, I won :) ) and we both garned only 7KW.
However, we both noticed how much better the car felt in responsiveness; it felt crisp compared to std.

It feels like that on the lower map for my car which is the same power output without a modified map. Bear in mind tho it is using much less fuel for the same power.

I cant believe how organised you guys (Rich & Dave) are keeping fuel receipts!!!! Mine go in the bin as I walk out of the servo.

I have created a spreadshgeet and recorded every tank ever put in the 380. do that with all my work cars so have 3 years of fuel consumption.:nuts: Started to do it with the wifes car but she either forgets to reset the trip or throws the receipt away.

Both Foozr and I chipped around the same time (it was a race for the first auto, I won :) ) and we both garned only 7KW.
However, we both noticed how much better the car felt in responsiveness; it felt crisp compared to std.

It feels like that on the lower map for my car which is the same power output without a modified map. Bear in mind tho it is using much less fuel for the same power.

Does it use less fuel all round? I am not that much up on the workings of these things but I thought Alan J was saying that when you are on a low throttle application it is really leaned out anyway. I may need to chat to a chipper ( as opposed to a fryer lol for those who remember that ad lol) and sort some things out. Has anyone in NSW been piggybacked?

Did you know what the power was before the chip? Was it very noticeable the difference in driving?


Both Foozr and I chipped around the same time (it was a race for the first auto, I won :) ) and we both garned only 7KW.
However, we both noticed how much better the car felt in responsiveness; it felt crisp compared to std.

It feels like that on the lower map for my car which is the same power output without a modified map. Bear in mind tho it is using much less fuel for the same power.

As Knotched said, the actual total peak KW gain was only about 7KW but cleaning up the AFR's & optimising the timing made the car a lot more responsive & I like that word 'crisp'. The fuel economy from the tune too was outstanding on the highway.

I have created a spreadshgeet and recorded every tank ever put in the 380. do that with all my work cars so have 3 years of fuel consumption.:nuts: Started to do it with the wifes car but she either forgets to reset the trip or throws the receipt away.

Maybe you should have a word with your wife.

I know I sound like a scratched CD but a chip will really pay off.
What are the best/preferred mods for a chip to have its best advantage? I'm thinking of a few things (twin exhausts) at the moment.


Just going back through my dockets to verify the figures-
best result was 58L for 690km = 8.4L/100kmh
You got 700 kms out of a 380? Wow.


I cant believe how organised you guys (Rich & Dave) are keeping fuel receipts!!!! Mine go in the bin as I walk out of the servo.
After they get entered into my spreadsheet, I keep them for a few weeks until I have too many, then chuck them all out. I've also done that (the spreadsheet) for most of my other cars too, just for fun and curiosity rather than for anything else.

You got 700 kms out of a 380? Wow.

I have seen 750km out of a tank N/A, even now with the blower with some spirited overtaking on the highway I got 650KM ...... around town is a different story though :iough: (Mental note - adictive blower whine around town = 400KM to a tank)

I have seen 750km out of a tank N/A, even now with the blower with some spirited overtaking on the highway I got 650KM ...... around town is a different story though :iough: (Mental note - adictive blower whine around town = 400KM to a tank)
Hi Foozrcool,

I think I better change my avatar asap to avoid copyright issues.:doh:

Sorry about that.

Hi Foozrcool,

I think I better change my avatar asap to avoid copyright issues.:doh:

Sorry about that.

Ha ha no copyright there, I chucked the series 2 badge & got a better one :cool:

I have seen 750km out of a tank N/A,

Yeah, that is fantastic, really. 7.7l/100km!

So, with extractors you will see even more improvement.

You guys with high fuel consumption have to realise the major culprit is the very rich fuel maps that the Bosch system was stuck with. As Dave TJ has posted, MMAL tried to fix this but ran out of time, money and authorisation from MMC in Japan.


What are the best/preferred mods for a chip to have its best advantage? I'm thinking of a few things (twin exhausts) at the moment.
Depends what is more important to you, but keep in mind once you chip your car , not only will it
1.feel much better day to day,
2.save you fuel the whole time and allow you to drive harder with much less penalty,
3. + extra power
but any future mods will be that much better because the air fuel ratios can be adjusted to suit whatever you mod e.g. extractors or cams.
It is definitely worth the outlay.

As Knotched said, the actual total peak KW gain was only about 7KW but cleaning up the AFR's & optimising the timing made the car a lot more responsive & I like that word 'crisp'. The fuel economy from the tune too was outstanding on the highway.

This is sounding like my option as I got screwed with having a non-LPG head. May be will fit that later, maybe. Just a few trade offs with the tank in the boot (cant fit my skis through the hole if it is covered bugger!) unless you can get twin side tanks. Yeah yeah Blackie I know dont say it....lol

The best I ever got out of my tank was 611km, on V-Power+ returning 9.49L/100KM.

The best I ever got out of my tank was 611km, on V-Power+ returning 9.49L/100KM.
What was the Avg Speed?

What was the Avg Speed?

Unfortunately I don't retain that info, just the kms and litres, but I guess it would have been around 55 (which it mostly always seems to be).

Unfortunately I don't retain that info, just the kms and litres, but I guess it would have been around 55 (which it mostly always seems to be).
Sounds pretty good. On petrol, driving very economically, i got 10.1L/100km with avg. speed of about 54 so you beat that..

Sounds pretty good. On petrol, driving very economically, i got 10.1L/100km with avg. speed of about 54 so you beat that..

Most of my driving (forgot to mention earlier) is in Auto mode, which is always kinder on the economy than Manual mode, though not as much fun.

Most of my driving (forgot to mention earlier) is in Auto mode, which is always kinder on the economy than Manual mode, though not as much fun.
Couple of weeks ago i had it in manual mode, then started to listen to some loud music and forgot which mode it was in. Lucky i caught it at about 4,000 rpm (was in first and couldnt hear the engine labouring).

The lower average speed really eats into the economy. This current tank I am only averaging around 60kph and up to 9.7L/100 all urban driving

best I got was back from melbourne 110 avg speed close to 700kms bout 680

but that was a cold night and highway would have being more but having to stop every couple of hours, roadworks, and townships meant I had to accelerate back up to cruising speed

best I got was back from melbourne 110 avg speed close to 700kms bout 680


Top result! :thumbsup:

I have confirmed that all gas supplied by Unigas in NSW is 100% propane. I have also learnt a lot in the process. We know that 100% propane is more efficient, what I didn't know (I may be the only one here but I will stick my ignorant neck out) is that Unigas derive all their LPG from natural gas hence the propane whereas if you buy your LPG from any Caltex or BP or any others supplied by an oil refiner, you will be getting a product derived from crude oil where apparently they boil the crude and extract the gas (propane and butane) from there. I guess that is why there is such a variation in LPG. I have also found out that any gas from Santos or Origin is also 100% propane. I have been told that Santos may cover SA. BTW Unigas is part of Elgas who are owned by BOC. I have the email add of the person I spoke to at Unigas if anyone wants further info. I wont post it here pls PM me for it.
Cheers

I know this is old, just that i was reading about the same thing. Facts turned out to be this, Butane is harder to store then Propane... 1L of propane has less energy than 1L of butane...

There are places in the US where they are trying cars running on 100% butane (however butane is alot more expensive to produce than propane). You will actually find that its cheaper to get 100% propane than it is for the MIX... the mix is better, i tried 100% propane for a while; My friends dad worked at unigas and told me it was 100% propane. I got around 480ks on unigas... I got 550 on the mix... (for the mix i used Shell servo - apparently they mix it 50/50. i also noticed increased performance on the mix. (than again its not possible to give a accurate comparison with tankfuls, as driving style could have been diff, i cant drive excatly the same for 2 weeks lol)

Just for peopel who think the "performance diff" was in my head, i acutally was expecting a greater performance from the 100% propane as thats what i had read in many sites.

Butane is just more dangerous to store has more pressure and is not as stable as propane. Thats why gas BBQ's use propane becasue the main concern is saftey with gas cans/tanks on bbq's etc - after all any gas would create enough heat to cook. however in Autogas requires other benefits like performance, economy, heat all become major factors (ofcorse saftey is too but there are other factors to worry about its not onli saftey). So having butane in autogas is a benefit over pure propane. Butane gives 12% more energy than propane - so u could say it should take you 12% further on a tank.

anyone disagree id be happy to know

Filled up today with Shell VPower (haven't used it for ages so will run a few tanks and see what I get), but these figures are for Shell 91 - if anyone's still interested in this stuff.

10.6L/100kms
54.7km/hr Average Speed
61.4 litres
580 total Kms

Trip to canberra on thursday netted avg 86.7km/h and 9.5l/100km

but now back to 13s this week

My and the Mrs leadfoot did not help

I know this is old, just that i was reading about the same thing. Facts turned out to be this, Butane is harder to store then Propane... 1L of propane has less energy than 1L of butane...

There are places in the US where they are trying cars running on 100% butane (however butane is alot more expensive to produce than propane). You will actually find that its cheaper to get 100% propane than it is for the MIX... the mix is better, i tried 100% propane for a while; My friends dad worked at unigas and told me it was 100% propane. I got around 480ks on unigas... I got 550 on the mix... (for the mix i used Shell servo - apparently they mix it 50/50. i also noticed increased performance on the mix. (than again its not possible to give a accurate comparison with tankfuls, as driving style could have been diff, i cant drive excatly the same for 2 weeks lol)

Just for peopel who think the "performance diff" was in my head, i acutally was expecting a greater performance from the 100% propane as thats what i had read in many sites.

Butane is just more dangerous to store has more pressure and is not as stable as propane. Thats why gas BBQ's use propane becasue the main concern is saftey with gas cans/tanks on bbq's etc - after all any gas would create enough heat to cook. however in Autogas requires other benefits like performance, economy, heat all become major factors (ofcorse saftey is too but there are other factors to worry about its not onli saftey). So having butane in autogas is a benefit over pure propane. Butane gives 12% more energy than propane - so u could say it should take you 12% further on a tank.

anyone disagree id be happy to know


If you want someone to completely disagree with your experience then I am happy to step up to the plate.

I can assure you that performance is definitely better with propane, especially with forced induction.

I was told by a reliable source that butane is added to auto lpg because excessive amounts, far in excess of consumer demand, are made in the refining process. The addition to blend is purely to get rid of it.

A bit like finding a use for excess fluoride in the aluminium smelting process....throw it in drinking water.

Solution by dilution, theres only a certain amount of cigarette lighter butane that can be sold on any given day.

EDIT: Dunno where you get the notion that 100% propane is cheaper than a mix...it costs more, by at least 10% in every filling station i have ever been to...and that's a few...


.

A quick look at Wikepedia:-

Energy value of various fuels:-

Pure propane 50.0 Mj/kg
Blended LPG 46.1 MJ/Kg
Diesel 42.5 MJ/Kg
Premium petrol 43.5 MJ/Kg





Sources:-


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquified_petroleum_gas

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Propane

I was told years ago that the Butane % was increased in LPG to act as a lubricant as the fuel was so "DRY". Sounded feasible at the time but could be BS too!

I was told years ago that the Butane % was increased in LPG to act as a lubricant as the fuel was so "DRY". Sounded feasible at the time but could be BS too!


The only problems with LPG have been with contaminated fuel.
A waxy substance clogs up the works and is expensive to repair.

It was found to be introduced when the butane was mixed in.
Butane mixing is also the reason why wildly different octane levels occur in LPG at times.

All this affects fuel economy, often substantially.

Thought this would be as good a place as any to update my fuel economy.

Happy to report the fuel economy has settled down a bit. Since I have bought it I have gone about 700kms, average economy 11.4L/100kms, average speed 47km/h.

That is mostly city driving with occasional blasts (particularly testing out the new air intake), but I did head up the coast and back yesterday, which used about 9.0L/100kms over 200kms. Hit heavy traffic and came to a total stop on the highway a few times coming back too.

11.4L/100kms I can deal with. The Camry used to use about 11. Happy with my purchase again now :)

Good to hear you are happy with your purchase, 11.4 for a biggish car is quite respectable.

Their extra thirst compared to a Magna is due to an extra couple of hundred kilo's and a fairly rich factory tune.

I am still getting around 16 litres per 100kms around town - but the average is low - under 30k/ph. Even driven like a granny and tip shifting below around 2000rpm I get 15s in CBD traffic. Acceleration from stand still absolutely stuffs the economy on this car.

Mine lives round 12-13 now

purely urban and traffic

but can get up to 16-17 if I get angry

I am still getting around 16 litres per 100kms around town - but the average is low - under 30k/ph. Even driven like a granny and tip shifting below around 2000rpm I get 15s in CBD traffic. Acceleration from stand still absolutely stuffs the economy on this car.

Yep it is the same for any large car. Personally I wouldn't have a large car for urban travel for that very reason. On the open road however it is a totally different kettle of fish.

My rolla is just as much of a DOG with fuel

My rolla is just as much of a DOG with fuel

Couldn't use as much as the 380 urban unless it has major mods.

not as much but close sometimes

Redlining for max VVTi-LIFT does not help either LOL

Yep it is the same for any large car. Personally I wouldn't have a large car for urban travel for that very reason. On the open road however it is a totally different kettle of fish.

Not the 08 Ford FG XR6 Turbo I had - used much less fuel around town than the 380.

Not the 08 Ford FG XR6 Turbo I had - used much less fuel around town than the 380.


If you don't kick it hard enough to bring up boost that is....;)

Not the 08 Ford FG XR6 Turbo I had - used much less fuel around town than the 380.

Thats good to know as an FG XR6 turbo will be my next car. Did you have it tuned to get that figure?

Thats good to know as an FG XR6 turbo will be my next car. Did you have it tuned to get that figure?

Nah this was a stock FG turbo. Around town - driving similar to the 380 (a few squirts from time to time) I would get in the 12s around town. The same trip in the 380 is in the 16s.. :(

The 380 is a good car but has very poor fuel consumption in the city.

Nah this was a stock FG turbo. Around town - driving similar to the 380 (a few squirts from time to time) I would get in the 12s around town. The same trip in the 380 is in the 16s.. :(

The 380 is a good car but has very poor fuel consumption in the city.

so what was it like for fuel on the open road??

Drove to Adelaide on the 23rd. I ended up getting approx 700kms to a FULL tank of premium fuel. Not bad I thought, especially with the 22"s on.

Well,come over from Adelaide to Melbourne yesterday and i got 9.3lts/100km,with a full boot and five people on board,so i was quite happy with that.

so what was it like for fuel on the open road??

It was great - around 7.5 on the open road.

It was great - around 7.5 on the open road.
It would want to be I guess to make up for the insurance premium for a turbo. Incidentally how much was insurance on it?

Nah this was a stock FG turbo. Around town - driving similar to the 380 (a few squirts from time to time) I would get in the 12s around town. The same trip in the 380 is in the 16s.. :(

Yeah the XR6T isn't bad on fuel at all, I'm getting low 14s with mostly city driving in my BFII, and giving it a decent boot. Cruises at 8.5-9L/100 on the freeway.

It would want to be I guess to make up for the insurance premium for a turbo. Incidentally how much was insurance on it?

$870 - about $70 more than what I pay for the 380.

$870 - about $70 more than what I pay for the 380.
mmm very tempting indeed!! G6-ET may be my kettle of fish

My econ has dropped since the last repair

I am stoked getting consistant 11-12 km/h per 100

Drove from Central Coast to Taree the other weekend, averaged 8.5/100 on E10. Around town it sits around 13 :(

mine is all round town

great hwy figures

My econ has dropped since the last repair

I am stoked getting consistant 11-12 km/h per 100

What repair did you get done to improve your figures?

Just my last rear ender

I dont know how still drive the same way but econ comes down cruises with lower KPG too

Just my last rear ender

I dont know how still drive the same way but econ comes down cruises with lower KPG too

They probably disconnected the battery during the repair, which reset the trip computer.

I'm not convinced that the 380 trip computer fuel consumption figures are all that accurate, there seems to a wide variation from car to car under similar driving conditions.

Every time I reset my trip computer I seem to get different figures for the next few hundred ks, sometimes 'worse' sometimes 'better', by anything up to 2l/100k.

As others have said the only way to accurately measure the fuel consumption/economy is to manually record the amount of fuel you put in the tank and the ks you drive over a number of fills.

KJ.

I have already confirmed that my figures are out. Economy seems to read half a litre over, that is if at refill display shows 10.6 (which it mostly does), my own calculations shows 10.1.
As already discussed my speedo over-reads too, so I guess the entire unit is wrong... but it doesn't bother me enough to get it fixed.

I have already confirmed that my figures are out. Economy seems to read half a litre over, that is if at refill display shows 10.6 (which it mostly does), my own calculations shows 10.1.
As already discussed my speedo over-reads too, so I guess the entire unit is wrong... but it doesn't bother me enough to get it fixed.

I would have to agree. Had my car for 10 mths and economy is consistently 0.5l out.

I would have to agree. Had my car for 10 mths and economy is consistently 0.5l out.

Check your speedo next time you're on a motorway/freeway, etc, and holding 100-110 with a GPS (or even 2 to double check it like I did). Mine reads over, but others read under. You might like to know what side of the needle you're really on during double-points season.

5 km lower under 100

10km lower over 100

I will never get booked

Maybe that's why I've never been booked (in the 380). When speedo shows 110, GPS shows 99. Yet my other car, an old VS Commodore Berlina is dead accurate, go figure!

Speedo reads 106 when GPS is on 100

We've just bought a 380 VRX Series 3.

Been up to Newcastle from Wollongong and back, run around town visiting relos etc.

Average for the whole trip was 8.9L/100. We only put in 98. Seems pretty good to me.

gee my gps reads 115 and the speedo is 110....

gee my gps reads 115 and the speedo is 110....

You're on the dangerous side then... better keep that in mind with all those cameras around.

gee my gps reads 115 and the speedo is 110....

Time to fit some 19s with 245/35 tyres then.

When your GPS reads 115 your speedo will read around 123.

KJ.

Anyone have any idea why LPG jumped 10c per litre last month? :cry:

ha and you complain about what you pay in Vic,was there at Christmas and you had it for ,what 58cpl,poor you,we are still paying ****en 67 cpl...whos getting ripped off big time...us poor sa suckers.......

ha and you complain about what you pay in Vic,was there at Christmas and you had it for ,what 58cpl,poor you,we are still paying ****en 67 cpl...whos getting ripped off big time...us poor sa suckers.......

Prices are strange.. Mildura Vic same price as Melbourne...

I am just complaining and trying to work out why it jumped 20%. Im sure it wasnt to make those paying 67c a Litre feel better..

i just came back from a holiday in broome - 99c/L for LPG up there!!! Yet ULP was only about $1.40/L, nowhere near as much a premium over Perth prices... go figure...

:nuts:Now getting high 10s, low 11s consistently

Car is due for service too

OK thought I'd chime in;

Had my car for over a year (14 months) now - done 9800kms so far :)

Before 90mm intake:

16-16.8 City driving - very short trips (as above, doesnt leave the garage much)
8.6 Highway trips (over 250km each time)

After 90mm intake:

14-14.9 City - once again still short trips
xx.xx Highway trips - Yet to do a full test again - fingers crossed I can get into the 7's!


As above I've noticed a CONSIDERABLE difference with the intake in short trips (quite amazing cos I think I've been leadfooting it lately compared to before)

with my stock wheels on and ONLYmod at the time being lowered i drove from liverpool down to albury AND back on one tank. Then from liverpool to granville fro work the next day before literally running out of fuel and havibg to call fro help. 1002 k's on one tank is what i acheived. Only ever used shell v power in my 380. Having said that i think at the time being limited to only 90km/h and not once taking it off 90 on cruise control on my red p's contributed to the outstanding fuel economy. Kif

Yeah if Mitsubishi wanted to show a sign of customer support they should have the 90mm intake as part of an improvement pack, providing it at say, a service for $30 or something. Realistically even at $30 they make a profit, and also through advertising they get brownie points and possibly a few more sales! (of other Mitsubishi vehicles that is).

Yeah if Mitsubishi wanted to show a sign of customer support they should have the 90mm intake as part of an improvement pack, providing it at say, a service for $30 or something. Realistically even at $30 they make a profit, and also through advertising they get brownie points and possibly a few more sales! (of other Mitsubishi vehicles that is).

Err... not going to happen. A few of us tried to order it through the dealerships only to have head office cancel the order because it wasn't "compatible with the region" i.e. didn't meet the original ADRs.

ah ok! thats very unfortunate, the standard snorkels are almost embarassingly small. Its just one of the many mistakes I feel Mitsubishi made with the 380!

So guys have been asking how or what has made my Fuel econ drop to 11's consistently so these are my tips

(and there are NO EGGS involved)

I run 98RON exclusively (either BP Ultimate or Shell V-Power)
oil is 5W-50 Mobil 1
Tyres are filled to 40-42 PSI ( I also have a wider tyre than stock) stock GT rims
90mm intake with K&N fitted
AC is no longer used unless needed
I use Tippy mode on hill climbs *

*NB: I have noticed when faced with a hill the 380 will rarely kick down on its own but will happily force more fuel into the engine in 5th the engine note is a slight knock.
As soon as I hear the distinct sound I switch to Tippy and drop it to 3rd or 2nd depending on the incline

The difference in the instant readings on the Trip computer can be as much as 100L/100km ie 167L/100km in 5th 67L/100km in 3rd
I think just keeping the motor in the peak power band has reduced the econ alot considering I was getting 15-17 consistently when first purchased

Umm I think thats all but chasing econ became a major thing for me so maybe a change in my style of driving could be a factor too though I still love the traffic light GPs

So guys have been asking how or what has made my Fuel econ drop to 11's consistently so these are my tips

(and there are NO EGGS involved)

I run 98RON exclusively (either BP Ultimate or Shell V-Power)
oil is 5W-50 Mobil 1
Tyres are filled to 40-42 PSI ( I also have a wider tyre than stock) stock GT rims
90mm intake with K&N fitted
AC is no longer used unless needed
I use Tippy mode on hill climbs *

*NB: I have noticed when faced with a hill the 380 will rarely kick down on its own but will happily force more fuel into the engine in 5th the engine note is a slight knock.
As soon as I hear the distinct sound I switch to Tippy and drop it to 3rd or 2nd depending on the incline

The difference in the instant readings on the Trip computer can be as much as 100L/100km ie 167L/100km in 5th 67L/100km in 3rd
I think just keeping the motor in the peak power band has reduced the econ alot considering I was getting 15-17 consistently when first purchased

Umm I think thats all but chasing econ became a major thing for me so maybe a change in my style of driving could be a factor too though I still love the traffic light GPs

I'm very similar to Mecha, but my average econmay is 12L/100k rather than 11. Mainly due to lots of stop start peak hour travel, the short gearing in 5th, and a propensity to gun it when I get the chance! I still love the sound it makes at WOT, and yesterday's MMX trial run cruise through the Adelaide Hills was a blast. I hardly ever deliberately drive for economy.

I also use only BP Ultimate or Shell V-Power.

I also use Mobil 1 5W-50 (although ATM I have Nulon Track/Street 15W-40 in it, to see if that helped reduce the ticking noise, but no change).

I have the 90mm intake (as well as several other intake & exhaust mods).

I recently upped my tyre pressures from 34PSI to 38PSI. Not for economy, but 34PSI was really too low and was contributing to uneven tyre wear. 38 is plenty hard enough for me on 35 profile tyres, don't think I will be going to 40.

I also drive the same way up hills, although I have a manual not an auto. Any hint of labouring and I change down a gear. Although the 6G75, especially with my mods, has plenty of low down torque and it doesn't need to be rowed along.

KJ.

Geeeze. While were here, thought id share mine too.

Im running 98, usually v power or bp ultimate. (Find V power works a treat in the 380s).
Bone stock. No 90mm intake or anything.
Tyres inflated to 40 psi all round.
Dont need the AC much these days so thats pretty much always off.
Usually in drive, though when its labouring i also knock it back a few gears.

At best im getting 13l/100kms. I do a bit of intown driving which knocks my economy up, but even on the highways, at best im down to is around 11.
And im pretty much feathering it around thesedays.
Any action in spirited driving and pwooah there goes the economy.
Service time soon I thinks !

some of you guys are getting worse eceonomy than my supercharged 380.

My car has improved. Running E10 for the last 3 tanks (out of curiosity) and averaging 11.4. Thats mostly around town driving exuberantly :)

Hopefully when I go back to 98 I can get it in the mid 10's!

i don't know why but the last two tanks i've been getting into the low 11's. Haven't really changed my driving behaviour, only thing i've done different in the last two tanks was change my gear box fluid. That couldn't make a difference in consumption could it

In the 380 the best i got on a normal week drive (town and Highway was avg 10.4. Running the SS Commodore with the AFM motor and i average 10.8 and that is driving the same way as the 380 most of the time. Other times i am giving it a boot full. The fun of a 6 litres. This is on 98Vortex

I've found I'm actually getting better economy with 95. It started 2 tanks ago when I accidently grabbed the wrong nozzle. On 98 I was averaging mid to high 10s, and now I'm getting low 10s.

You guys who are experiencing better than normal fuel economy, have you noticed anything different about the weather lately? It's colder. Colder air means more efficient combustion, which means less fuel for your bang, which means better fuel economy!

You guys who are experiencing better than normal fuel economy, have you noticed anything different about the weather lately? It's colder. Colder air means more efficient combustion, which means less fuel for your bang, which means better fuel economy!

Also the fuel in colder weather is different to the hotter weather mix

Winter=Cold Air intake........LOL

i filled up last night with Mobil E10... 160kms so far and averaging 9.3l/100 :D:D... I have def found that manually down shifting for hills, comming into/out of round-a-bouts etc, def helps the economy as the engine isnt labouring as much.

You guys who are experiencing better than normal fuel economy, have you noticed anything different about the weather lately? It's colder. Colder air means more efficient combustion, which means less fuel for your bang, which means better fuel economy!

Also have heard that in the colder months fuel is not as dense so mare ends up in your tank ????? Not sure but just what i have heard over the years

Also have heard that in the colder months fuel is not as dense so mare ends up in your tank ????? Not sure but just what i have heard over the years

Perhaps more would end up in your tank, unsure of mare.

Mare is a horse, so perhaps more horsepower in the tank.

Mare is a horse, so perhaps more horsepower in the tank.

But Mare is a female horse, so if power is what you are after it will take it away just to spite you!! lol

But Mare is a female horse, so if power is what you are after it will take it away just to spite you!! lol

If mare is female, you wouldn't be able to get permission to get the money to spend on the fuel in the first place!

Maybe after a mare in the Starion (read stallion)

Also have heard that in the colder months fuel is not as dense so mare ends up in your tank ????? Not sure but just what i have heard over the years

I think you mean More dense in the colder months, which means better value at the bowser. Once its in the fuel rail, it'll heat up.

At least its not soooo cold, that we get a of bit rough idle and stallion, I mean Stalling. But I like the CAI, as long as Rein doesn't get in the intake.

Its the air that's mare dense air in the intake that results in mare ponies under the hood when you hoof it, hay.

I think you mean More dense in the colder months, which means better value at the bowser. Once its in the fuel rail, it'll heat up.

At least its not soooo cold, that we get a of bit rough idle and stallion, I mean Stalling. But I like the CAI, as long as Rein doesn't get in the intake.

Its the air that's mare dense air in the intake that results in mare ponies under the hood when you hoof it, hay.

Bravo good sir, :bowrofl:

I would get around 12L/100km on average in my manual VRX if I absolutely feathered it around. Even slightly spirited driving saw that jump to 14's minimum. I bought the car remembering how good my old 3.0L TE was on fuel even if I drove it like I stole. I was extraordinarily disappointed with the 380. Knowing that any planting of the foot would hurt big time at the fuel pump ultimately killed the enjoyment of the car for me. I traded it in last week after only owning it about 8 months, lost a few $k, but was just relieved to be rid of it.

That being said, the inexplicably retarded gear ratios on the manual was a factor as well. For the first and probably last time I'll ever say this about a car, I think I would have liked the auto a lot more in the 380.

it will be interesting to see what economy i get going to melbourne tomorrow night

snip.

Shit. Sorry to hear that, mate. Since chipping it's never been an issue for me. A spirited drive and I get 10L/100km tops. But that would've cost another $1.5K on top of your purchase price.
Good luck with your next car.

I think you mean More dense in the colder months, which means better value at the bowser. Once its in the fuel rail, it'll heat up.

At least its not soooo cold, that we get a of bit rough idle and stallion, I mean Stalling. But I like the CAI, as long as Rein doesn't get in the intake.

Its the air that's mare dense air in the intake that results in mare ponies under the hood when you hoof it, hay.
Truly a fellow conveyor of wordplay. Touche!

Ahhhh Yet another trip from Melbourne back to Sydney on one tank last night...


car is bone Dry right now tho CBF going to the servo

Pretty happy with my last fill up.

603km out of a tank. 60% CBD and 40% freeway driving.

Another week of careless supercharged driving....mostly city traffic.

385 k's to 55 litres of LPG... cost to fill from empty $26.50 :)

ok so i went and filled up my car just before and managed to fit in 67.32 litres into the 67 litre tank :S then went to start it, it struggled to start at the servo for a brief moment till the fuel went through

I don't even get that driving hard...and I don't have a la-di-da supercharger. damn you Blackstar! lol

ok so i went and filled up my car just before and managed to fit in 67.32 litres into the 67 litre tank :S then went to start it, it struggled to start at the servo for a brief moment till the fuel went through

That extra fuel would be in the neck of the filler tube mate.

I managed 7.9 from Sydney to Newcastle on the expressway. that is with a few steep hills thrown in. oh yeah on 98 ron driving ultra conservatively too. wasn't in a hurry speed was averaged at over 100kph.

on av mine is running at 11.3 i guess it's not to bad then again i have come from 2L to 3.8L lol

on av mine is running at 11.3 i guess it's not to bad then again i have come from 2L to 3.8L lol

Ahhhh the good old days of mid 11's on 17's wait till you get the 20's you'll be hovering around the 14's like me around town depends how you drive of course

i drive pretty soft so all good hehe i will be driving even more safer when my logo's for my business go on the car next week.

Ahhhh the good old days of mid 11's on 17's wait till you get the 20's you'll be hovering around the 14's like me around town depends how you drive of course

WOW...that seems a little high. Does anyone else have this? Even with the 22's ours doesnt push past 11.4ltrs/100kms.

WOW...that seems a little high. Does anyone else have this? Even with the 22's ours doesnt push past 11.4ltrs/100kms.

My Wheels weigh a TONNE and i get quiet excited driving around town :D VERY EXCITED, at times lol

no wonder lol lead foot theirs our answer hahah you had me scared there for a minute!

no wonder lol lead foot theirs our answer hahah you had me scared there for a minute!

if im nice i get it down to 11's but did Melbourne to Sydney last week on a tank with the 20's so its all about your driving style

Kif running a tank that low is never a good idea...

Yep you never want to suck up the dregs. PS I did a run up the freeway from Sydney to Newcastle and averaged 7.9l/100...OK I was driving like a pussy but there are some decent hills on the way.
Edit: Must be getting old I have already posted that lol

Guys the fuel pick up is located at the bottom of the tank

However you dont want to run the tank on fumes as fuel is also part of the cooling effect on the engine plus it heats up the fuel pump to much

My 10 yr old corolla's tank is a clean as the day I brought it

However the fuel filters that get regularly changed are not and it never runs on fumes

I just picked up my '07 380sx(38000kms) on the weekend. just using the onboard computer was getting 9.2L/100km on a trip of 300kms of country roads. seems ok. haven't filled the tank up and done a proper check yet. will post up what I get around town on a tank soon...

yeah the 380 is a SUPER CRUISER Steve loves those long country drives

its traffic it hates LOL

Just like me !