Hey Guys

Ive done some enquiring and its going to be alot cheeper to install some brakes pads myself.. the only problem is that i dont know how to do it...

So i was wondering if somebody on here cold give me a quick and simple step by step how to... on how to change my front brake pads...

also could i get some recommendations on what pads i should use.. keeping in mind that i drive pretty normally (not very hard etc..)

Cheers Guys
Whippy

also could i get some recommendations on what pads i should use.. keeping in mind that i drive pretty normally (not very hard etc..)

Bendix General CTs. They're often mentioned as the all-round pad to get. I've got a set and they're great. Zero squealing and no dust. Coupled with slotted rotors they do brake a little better than the stockos too.

Bendix Ultimates perform better, but they squeal more and they dust like anything.

I've heard good things about QFM pads, but to be honest, I'd be pretty content with the Bendix pads.

You'll need a G clamp and a piece of wood, and a 14 or 17mm spanner, cannot remember which.

Take brake fluid reservoir cap off.
Take wheel off.
Crack bottom bolt of brake caliper, and remove.
Crack top bolt

Swing caliper up.

Remove brake pads.
Place piece of wood over piston (or pistons) and use a G clamp over the whole caliper and SLOWLY (turn by turn) push the piston back into the caliper.
once this is done;

Insert new brake pads
Swing caliper back down
Insert bolt at bottom
Do bolts back up RFT (:P)
Wheel back on etc etc etc

I think for single piston calipers it's a tad different (well it is on a 2nd gen anyway) but thats how you do it for a twin piston setup, actually easier then the single pistons

;1087934']You'll need a G clamp and a piece of wood, and a 14 or 17mm spanner, cannot remember which.

Take brake fluid reservoir cap off.
Take wheel off.
Crack bottom bolt of brake caliper, and remove.
Crack top bolt

Swing caliper up.

Remove brake pads.
Place piece of wood over piston (or pistons) and use a G clamp over the whole caliper and SLOWLY (turn by turn) push the piston back into the caliper.
once this is done;

Insert new brake pads
Swing caliper back down
Insert bolt at bottom
Do bolts back up RFT (:P)
Wheel back on etc etc etc

I think for single piston calipers it's a tad different (well it is on a 2nd gen anyway) but thats how you do it for a twin piston setup, actually easier then the single pistons

it is the same setup weather it is single ,twin or more just make sure when you have put it all back together you pump up the brake peddle first before you start the car this will push the pistons back against the pad if you dont you will find if you drive off and go to stop you wont be able to

Oh I meant more the sense of to undo the bolt on the twin piston is a single 17mm whereas on a single piston (I presume 3rd gen calipers are similar to 2nd gen calipers) where you hold the 17mm inner bolt and crack the 14mm nut on the end

;1087960']Oh I meant more the sense of to undo the bolt on the twin piston is a single 17mm whereas on a single piston (I presume 3rd gen calipers are similar to 2nd gen calipers) where you hold the 17mm inner bolt and crack the 14mm nut on the end

its actually a 15mm bolt........

its actually a 15mm bolt........

Could have sworn they were 17mm when I did a mate's the other week.

Yeah nah singles and twins have diff bolts, twin is 17mm but single is a 15mm and a 17mm....im sure......something like that

u can actually buy the proper tool from repco to push the pads back in something like $15 if i remember.... and just use the old pads between tool (or g clamp) and piston,

make sure u keep an eye on ure brake fluid resivor u don't want the fluid spilling over will stuff ure paint...

make sure no to get any oil on the pads or calipers (it effects the seals and pad material)

and while the caliper is off make sure u inspect ure rotors as well make sure their isn't a huge lip on them, indicates large amounts of wear on disc, (and u will have trouble getting calipers back on) do a quick check of disc thickness too make sure they are within the limit still, and that the discs don't have deep scoring... if they do they will need skimming.

also if u notice one side has more meat left on the pads than the other this can indicate a seized caliper

;1088156']Yeah nah singles and twins have diff bolts, twin is 17mm but single is a 15mm and a 17mm....im sure......something like that

True must have been drunk when I took the calipers off :bowrofl: All good.

u can actually buy the proper tool from repco to push the pads back in something like $15 if i remember.... and just use the old pads between tool (or g clamp) and piston,

make sure u keep an eye on ure brake fluid resivor u don't want the fluid spilling over will stuff ure paint...

make sure no to get any oil on the pads or calipers (it effects the seals and pad material)

and while the caliper is off make sure u inspect ure rotors as well make sure their isn't a huge lip on them, indicates large amounts of wear on disc, (and u will have trouble getting calipers back on) do a quick check of disc thickness too make sure they are within the limit still, and that the discs don't have deep scoring... if they do they will need skimming.

also if u notice one side has more meat left on the pads than the other this can indicate a seized caliper

sorry but how can i get oil on the pads?... you dont remove any hoses or anything do you... all the oil is still in the piston..

Yeah I think he was just mentioning it in general. You shouldn't have a drama though.

I've had a whole disc covered in paint and its been fine hey, get a bit of friction going and the paint just comes off the disc.

okay i was reading the work shop manual.. and it goes on about adjusting all these different things.. and clamping off the brake line to bleed it etc...

im guessing that you dont really need to do this.. all ya gotta do (basically)

pull wheel off
undo bottom bolt
loosen top bolt
tilt up caliper
pull out old pads
push piston back in
insert net pads
and put everything back

when you are removing the pads, is there a special way to do it... or do they just 'pop' out?

just about.........old pads should just pull out....might have to push the pad carrier down and hold it down when you put it back on,due to the springs on the pads..........dont forget the shim pads and the little h bracket that sits on top of the pads either,and your master cylinder...keep an eye on the level...as you dont want to sqeeze the fluid out..depends on how much fluid is in there....if you havent topped it up,then you should be fine..the level should have dropped in relation to the expansion of your pistons...due to the wear of your pads...

just about.........old pads should just pull out....might have to push the pad carrier down and hold it down when you put it back on,due to the springs on the pads..........dont forget the shim pads and the little h bracket that sits on top of the pads either,and your master cylinder...keep an eye on the level...as you dont want to sqeeze the fluid out..depends on how much fluid is in there....if you havent topped it up,then you should be fine..the level should have dropped in relation to the expansion of your pistons...due to the wear of your pads...

sorry but mike can you explain that a little more?

When you do it ,all will be revealed..........just take your time and take note of where things are....

cheers mate! haha...


just wish me luck.. and hopefully i dont brake anything

^ i just made a funny.. haha

yeah pads just come out and they've got a metal bracket over the back side of them...

And don't forget to pump your brake pedal before you drive off.

if not.. the handbrake is there...

Get someone over who has done this before to show you the in's and outs :P makes life ALOT easier

Well guys... today i bought the Bendix Generals Pads for $55 bucks from Motor Traders down at lonsdale... great guys in there!....

I got quotes for these pads from $55 from the above.. to $99.55... its amazing how much money you can save just by giving a few places a call... and most places were charging around $90 to install them for me.. which is a rip off!

welll i got home installed them fine.. went for a run... wow. one word... its amazing how much 55 bucks can do...
from what i could tell the pads were the original pads from the factory..

it seems alot harder that it actually is.. i cant believe that they basically just 'sit' there..

Good on you Whippy! yep always worth getting a few quotes.

aaahhh....Good ol AMC , always helping out our fellow members...........glad it went okay.....

$55 for bendix GCT's wow thats good. i have been getting quotes for around the $70 mark and up... hmmm... I am upgrading my brakes soon to twin piston and slotted rotors. I may have to go where you went whippy and get my pads from them, lol... maybe even the rotors...

Good on you Whippy! yep always worth getting a few quotes.
yeah i know haha


aaahhh....Good ol AMC , always helping out our fellow members...........glad it went okay.....
ahhh do i love amc?... ahh yes i do... the amount of things that ive done, that i wouldent have done if i didnt have AMC


$55 for bendix GCT's wow thats good. i have been getting quotes for around the $70 mark and up... hmmm... I am upgrading my brakes soon to twin piston and slotted rotors. I may have to go where you went whippy and get my pads from them, lol... maybe even the rotors...
hey mate just PM me if you want their details

$55 for bendix GCT's wow thats good. i have been getting quotes for around the $70 mark and up... hmmm... I am upgrading my brakes soon to twin piston and slotted rotors. I may have to go where you went whippy and get my pads from them, lol... maybe even the rotors...

As he got them from Motor Traders,there are branches every where...look it up..........and next time u r at u pull it Stuart...nth one....and if they arent gone.....can you get me a couple of front door light switches...the ones in the b pillar down the bottom..

For pushin the pistons back in, I normalkl just stick the old pads in there, then use some form of lever (such as a scresriver, or the end of a wheel brace or a spanner or something like that)...

Works just fine....... :P

For pushin the pistons back in, I normalkl just stick the old pads in there, then use some form of lever (such as a scresriver, or the end of a wheel brace or a spanner or something like that)...

Works just fine....... :P

i just bought one of those windy tools... as i figured that ill use it again anyway