Hi Everyone, I've decided to take the plunge and convert to manual.
I just have some questions.

I've been quoted $1100 for a conversion kit out of a car with 117000 on the clock which includes

BOX / FLYWHEEL / CLUTCH /SHIFTER /SHIFTER CABLE / CV SHAFTS / N-S CROSS MEMBER / MANUAL CONSOLE / SHIFTER BOOT IS THEIR BUT IS STARTING TO DISCOLOUR /PEDALS /MASTER CYLINDER / SLAVE CYLINDER AND LINE /GBOX MOUNT AND NUTS & BOLTS

Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think I need the cross member or the manual console?
Looking at the manual the auto and manual appear to use the exact same cross member?
Are to console actually different from manual to auto?
Is this all I need for the conversion? will the only drilling and cutting I need to do be for the clutch pedal/master cylinder? plus the extra hole I need to make to get the LPG wiring out of the clutch/master cylinder hole...

On the forum I've found info on wiring up the inhibitor so the car will start.
I think I have got my head around getting cruise to work with the clutch.
From what've I've gathered I need to obtain the clutch switch and run a wire to one of the pins on the cruise ECU?

Thanks guys!

Ok, this is a worry..

From manual refrring to flywheel

Caution
The flywheel mounting bolts shown must not be
removed. If the bolts are removed, the flywheel will
lose its original balance and could break during
operation.

Ignore this question, I'm a ********! lol

umm not sure on ure q's but $1100 for the conversion kit WOW!!! i got quoted $1400 for box alone!!!

with 200,000+

you don't need the cross member or the console.

that looks to be a complete kit. yes, the only hole you need to cut will be for the clutch master cylinder (outside of your LPG stuff). IIRC that hole is actually stamped in the firewall.

search for cruise control wiring and you'll find what I did (with Dan's help). clutch switch to a relay to the inhibitor and the TCU. clutch in, car's in P or N, clutch out, car's in D (so cruise will work).

cheers,
.wook

You will also need the sandwich plate which is the thin bit of steel plate that bolts to the engine block behind the flywheel. If you don't replace this your starter motor will not bolt in with the manual gearbox in place.

Hi guys, wreckers said I need to cross member too and they provide it with all kits so I took that whatever approach.
Have ordered the sandwich plate.. I had tofigure out what plate that was as in the mits manual it's called the rear plate.

Also planning on getting this stuff..

Diff seals .... maybe...
Gearbox fluid
Brake fluid / clutch fluid
32mm socket (wheel hub drive shaft nut)
Crowbar (Drive shaft removal)
New drill bits (drilling through firewall)
grinding bits (cleaning up firewall holes)
split pins (putting wheel nuts back on)
cable connectors (rewiring auto computer to send ECU neutral signal, and to reroute LPG wires because they're going through the clutch pedal/master cylinder hole)
2 slabs Jim Beam (cleaning the gearbox)
Clutch pedal cruise control switch
Gym membership (or con wife into helping lift auto out)
new tyres...
band aids
swear jar

Unfortunatly budget is pushed a bit too far for a clutch kit so here's hoping the 2nd hand one is ok, I don't mind replacing it again in 6 months or so.. More reason to hide under the car hehe

forgive my electronics dumbness (I work in IT too) what is a relay?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/4-NEW-12-VOLT-16-AMP-RELAYS-NEW_W0QQitemZ140335435219QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car _Parts_Accessories?hash=item20aca4cdd3&_trksid=p32 86.c0.m14 ?? I've heard some people used a brake switch for the clutch cruise switch? so I could just use the one that comes with the new brake pedal or my old brake pedal and adapt it?
I still can't get my head around this...
I get it in theory, but that's it..

Now this is important, what do I do with the transmission cooler?
Can I just diconnect the lines and leave it in?
What size is the drive shaft nut? I don't have sockets this big so will need to buy one especially..
Hmmm, will need bigger tool box soon.. things are starting to not fit..

So, I need to set things up so that.

When clutch is out there's a connections between auto inhibitor pins 9,10 4,8 (Neutral)
When clutch is in there's a connection between pins 1,8 (Drive)

??

How does one achieve this?
Is that what the replay is for?

you shouldn't need to remove the drive shafts from the hubs.

EDIT: and yes you just disconnect the trans cooler and leave it in place.

you shouldn't need to remove the drive shafts from the hubs.

EDIT: and yes you just disconnect the trans cooler and leave it in place.

But the driveshafts need to be replaced don't they?

easiest way i would do it is

Go jolly rodgers, strip what you need they have a few manuals in there, save some $ or buy a manual wreck that been hit, rolled over etc. That way you can score the manual computer, wiring loom, keys, immobilizer computer. make it look factory under the bonnet. (when doing this if it is advance you will need a manual advance wiring loom, exec wiring loom - advance brings on abs light.)

done a couple of these. first one took me ages

to do it on the ground by yourself is hard, pulling box out and heaving it up is a dog

what i do is pull motor and box out to pull the motor out takes about an hour longer but is worth the headaches. than trying to pull box out and put it in. when the motor is out it put it on an old tyre with the box hanging off the side tyre.

Undo all bolts including torque convertor bolts (do that when motor is in car), get your missus to help pull it off, take the auto drive plate and auto sandwhich plate off.

Put the manual sandwhich plate on, then flywheel, fit clutch making sure that the clutch is aligned.

Grab the missus tell her to give you a hand, lift gearbox onto back of motor, start a bolt but dont tighten it right up,pull the clutch fork forward making sure that it engages the clutch plate washer, fit all bolts starter motor and tighten.

Also while the engine is out fit the manual shifter cables, clutch master and lines to car it makes it easier.

Re- install engine, fill gearbox, radiator and power steering, if running auto wire up the reverse light switch cant rememer which wires it was for auto, but someone should be able to tell you ( i got a auto wiring loom with it done but it is buried in the garage)

easiest way i would do it is

Go jolly rodgers, strip what you need they have a few manuals in there, save some $ or buy a manual wreck that been hit, rolled over etc. That way you can score the manual computer, wiring loom, keys, immobilizer computer. make it look factory under the bonnet. (when doing this if it is advance you will need a manual advance wiring loom, exec wiring loom - advance brings on abs light.)

Jolly Rogers is a three hour drive, not worth the fuel and effort to do it all in one day, I live in North East Vic, not North East Subs

done a couple of these. first one took me ages

to do it on the ground by yourself is hard, pulling box out and heaving it up is a dog

what i do is pull motor and box out to pull the motor out takes about an hour longer but is worth the headaches. than trying to pull box out and put it in. when the motor is out it put it on an old tyre with the box hanging off the side tyre.

Undo all bolts including torque convertor bolts (do that when motor is in car), get your missus to help pull it off, take the auto drive plate and auto sandwhich plate off.

Put the manual sandwhich plate on, then flywheel, fit clutch making sure that the clutch is aligned.

Grab the missus tell her to give you a hand, lift gearbox onto back of motor, start a bolt but dont tighten it right up,pull the clutch fork forward making sure that it engages the clutch plate washer, fit all bolts starter motor and tighten.

Also while the engine is out fit the manual shifter cables, clutch master and lines to car it makes it easier.

It's going to be harder with the motor in but I couldn't be fagged taking it out (disonnecting fuel lines, taking exhaust off, refilling PS fluid, coolant etc) plus doing all the gearbox crap.

Re- install engine, fill gearbox, radiator and power steering, if running auto wire up the reverse light switch cant rememer which wires it was for auto, but someone should be able to tell you ( i got a auto wiring loom with it done but it is buried in the garage)
Aparently this message is too short and I need to lengthen it by five charaters

you don't need the cross member or the console.

that looks to be a complete kit. yes, the only hole you need to cut will be for the clutch master cylinder (outside of your LPG stuff). IIRC that hole is actually stamped in the firewall.

search for cruise control wiring and you'll find what I did (with Dan's help). clutch switch to a relay to the inhibitor and the TCU. clutch in, car's in P or N, clutch out, car's in D (so cruise will work).

cheers,
.wook

Found the thread, I think... still don't get it...

also man you dont need a manual console, auto and manual are the same, speed sensor plugs are same manual and auto too

You DO NOT need the cross member for starters, who ever told you that you do is full of shit

The console is the same

Jolly's do not have what you need as the parts have already been taken

You will only need to change your pass side gear box mount, the rest are the same

You DO need to remove the shafts from the hubs, this gets them out of the way

When you take out the motor, you do not need to fill up power steer fluid as the pump unbolts and hangs there as does the AC

The way I do them is I take out the motor and box for a few reasons, makes fitting it all up a lot easier, also makes getting the clutch line back behind the insulation easier as this is where it belongs. You can clean your engine bay while you are there too

If you look at my members machine thread you will see the extent I went to, as far as to look at the car one would think it has been a manual since it was built, that is the only way I like to do things

The cost for the conversion kit is really up there, I think I will have to now lift the price of the kit I have here before I sell it too cheap lol

point taken, I'll stop asking questions and see how I go.

I contacted five different wreckers and nobody had even a gearbox..
It's hard to source this stuff when you live in the middle of nowhere..
I'll take the car to an auto elec to get cruise set up..

How much do you want for your kit?


You DO NOT need the cross member for starters, who ever told you that you do is full of shit

The console is the same

Jolly's do not have what you need as the parts have already been taken

You will only need to change your pass side gear box mount, the rest are the same

You DO need to remove the shafts from the hubs, this gets them out of the way

When you take out the motor, you do not need to fill up power steer fluid as the pump unbolts and hangs there as does the AC

The way I do them is I take out the motor and box for a few reasons, makes fitting it all up a lot easier, also makes getting the clutch line back behind the insulation easier as this is where it belongs. You can clean your engine bay while you are there too

If you look at my members machine thread you will see the extent I went to, as far as to look at the car one would think it has been a manual since it was built, that is the only way I like to do things

The cost for the conversion kit is really up there, I think I will have to now lift the price of the kit I have here before I sell it too cheap lol

How much do you want for your kit?

I am looking at offering a full manual conversion for a TE/F for around $1200 fitted, just going through checking the parts I have are a/ in good condition and b/ everything I need to offer for this to happen