Our TR-V6 Auto wont start. About 2 years ago we had major electrical problems and had an auto elec look at the car. He replaced and rewired some relays that now sit externally from the engine fuse box.

Our alternator was also replaced as well as a few wires. He told us the battery was shagged and it should be replaced if it has trouble starting.


Well, In the last week we have had issues with starting, so I tested the battery and it was at 12.2v so I went and got a new century battery (#57) and replaced the old one which had black gunge underneath the battery lids.

The car started............. but only just, so I charged the battery overnight and this morning I reinstalled it and it wouldnt even crank the car over at all.

I have checked everything that I can, when the car was running it was putting out 14.2v so its certainly charging. With the new battery installed, turning the headlights on with the interior light on doesnt even dim the interior light at all and when I replaced the old battery the interior light was almost going out when I did the same thing.

After installing the new battery the car wouldnt startif I turned the ignition to the normal "run" position for a few seconds and then to "start". Something in the engine bay would just click slightly, but if I just turned the key straight from accessories to "start" it would crank over slowly and start.

Now the car wont even start at all. I tapped the starter quite a few times with a metal rod but nothing..... Not anything.

I also replaced all the relays with those from my TS-V6 so as to eliminate them.

The fuse and relay panel under the bonnet has one relay (P/W) which clicks once when the key is turned to the normal "run" position and there is some other buzzing noise which appears to be coming from somewhere below the engine bay fuse and relay box, but I cant locate where it is coming from.


Does anyone have any ideas as to the source of the problem please??

Is it just the starter motor is shagged or is it something more sinister??

Thanks in advance.

Maate,
I'd be checking the following:

the negative & positive battery cable's aren't corroded where they go into the battery connection; and
connection points to the body, engine block & starter motor are clean, tight and the wires aren't corroded in the connections

Cheers

for testing purpose, on my tr 4cyl, that i sold to the wreckers, i pulled the starter motor out and with jumper cables connected it straight to the battery (not the best idea but just wanted to check if the starter motor worked) and it kicked over... but only hold it on for maybe a second then straight off again. if it kicks over then i would say there is a short somewhere in the system, between the battery/ignition/starter motor. if its dead well its the starter motor

Maate,
I'd be checking the following:

the negative & positive battery cable's aren't corroded where they go into the battery connection; and
connection points to the body, engine block & starter motor are clean, tight and the wires aren't corroded in the connections

Cheers


Already checked and verified good earth, both pos and neg battery leads are perfect, no resistance :)


They were one of the first things I checked.


What next? lol

Try swapping starter motors. When trying to start an engine with a crook battery the starter motor solenoid contacts may be damaged due to a drop in available voltage.

Thanks Magna Diver.

uhhuh. I thought that too. Ive ordered a new starter which will hopefully be here on Tues or Wed.

Im still curious as to the buzzing noise which only lasts a few seconds after the key is turned on. I cant locate it at all, it sort of sounds like its coming from inside the tranny???

It only lasts about 2 seconds, and actually sounds like an electric fuel pump, but my TS doesnt make that sound and I have never noticed the TR making that noise until today.

Thanks Magna Diver.

uhhuh. I thought that too. Ive ordered a new starter which will hopefully be here on Tues or Wed.

Im still curious as to the buzzing noise which only lasts a few seconds after the key is turned on. I cant locate it at all, it sort of sounds like its coming from inside the tranny???

It only lasts about 2 seconds, and actually sounds like an electric fuel pump, but my TS doesnt make that sound and I have never noticed the TR making that noise until today.

According to Madmagna, that is your ABS Modulator (I'm SURE that's what he said) and yeah, I know the sound you mean. My bet is starter motor too

;1092949']According to Madmagna, that is your ABS Modulator (I'm SURE that's what he said) and yeah, I know the sound you mean. My bet is starter motor too

Hmm, If you mean Anti Brake Skidding then thats out cause it doesnt have ABS, and it never done it until today when this "wont start" problem occurred.

or antilock braking system. but whatever.

if its not your starter motor, get someone under the car to smack up your fuel pump while you crank it

or antilock braking system. but whatever.

if its not your starter motor, get someone under the car to smack up your fuel pump while you crank it

:wtf::wtf::wtf::wtf::wtf:

Who said anything about getting underneath to smack up the fuel pump?? I said that it SOUNDS LIKE AN ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP TYPE OF NOISE.............

Im a qualified A grade mechanic but dont do auto-electrics............

Besides, a FUEL PUMP would NOT stop the engine from CRANKING OVER....................

sweet. so i get flamed for helping. thanks man.

sweet. so i get flamed for helping. thanks man.

well it stands to logical reason that an electric fuel pump (which im certain is mounted inside the fuel tank ) would not be making a noise under the bonnet.

It was like you only read "fuel pump" and then made a comment without information based on facts or even logic. Why would you (or anyone) "get someone under the car to smack up your fuel pump while you crank it "??

Anyways, cheers for the reply :) :beer:

Hmm, If you mean Anti Brake Skidding then thats out cause it doesnt have ABS, and it never done it until today when this "wont start" problem occurred.

Okay then...Is it possible one of your relays have shat themselves? while you crank it can you get someone to feel all the relays? (If you havent already done this already which you might of) Cause it's only on some of the later KS's which had 2 more relays underneath the standard fusebox....very strange

;1093098']Okay then...Is it possible one of your relays have shat themselves? while you crank it can you get someone to feel all the relays? (If you havent already done this already which you might of) Cause it's only on some of the later KS's which had 2 more relays underneath the standard fusebox....very strange

are you refering to the relays under my fuse box?

didn't you say, that they could be the ones for my sunroof? not many factory mitsu 2nd gens came out with a sunroof so will need someone with a factory sunroof to verify

are you refering to the relays under my fuse box?

didn't you say, that they could be the ones for my sunroof? not many factory mitsu 2nd gens came out with a sunroof so will need someone with a factory sunroof to verify

I say alot of things! :P, COULD of been for sunroof, BUT one was for headlights remember?

;1093098']Okay then...Is it possible one of your relays have shat themselves? while you crank it can you get someone to feel all the relays? (If you havent already done this already which you might of) Cause it's only on some of the later KS's which had 2 more relays underneath the standard fusebox....very strange

sorry to hijack, which fusebox you mean?in the car or in the engine bay? Im having starter problems too. think it may be starter relay. cant find where the *******er is but

2nd gens dont have starter relays AFAIK Wires come directly from battery and from ignition barrel (corret me if I am wrong though, positive on this but)

;1093230']2nd gens dont have starter relays AFAIK Wires come directly from battery and from ignition barrel (corret me if I am wrong though, positive on this but)

afaik thisis correct. prettyy sure the line goes from Batt-Trans-IGN. when the car's in park (auto) then the circuit is closed allowing for power to go through to the starter.

OP, as for the buzzing, turn your ignition to the RUN position and put your car in any other gear than Park or Neutral. If the buzzing is continuous, then it is the Inhibitor switch doing its job and is normal.

For the starting issue, haveyou tried to connect a multimeter to the terminal on the starter while someone else cranks? this will tell you whether there's power going to the starter. if there is then it's most probably that the starters shagged.

;1093098']Okay then...Is it possible one of your relays have shat themselves? while you crank it can you get someone to feel all the relays? (If you havent already done this already which you might of) Cause it's only on some of the later KS's which had 2 more relays underneath the standard fusebox....very strange

I havent looked underneath the engine bay fuse and relay box, but will do that this morning :) The car wont even crank at all.



sorry to hijack, which fusebox you mean?in the car or in the engine bay? Im having starter problems too. think it may be starter relay. cant find where the *******er is but

The fuse and relay box in the engine bay.

The solenoid on the starter motor acts as the relay - low current through the ignition switch causes a metal bar in the solenoid to slam across two contacts, this connects the starter motor directly to the battery through a VERY thick wire (about 300 to 600 amps initial current draw), which spins the motor and throws out the gear. When you let go of the key the solenoid is de-energised and pulls back, the motor stops spinning and a spring disengages the starter gear from the ring gear. Simple really. If the solenoid becomes oil soaked the oil carbonises and stops contact when the solenoid is energised. That, or the brushes are worn out. So there!

Are you sure the battery is ok? Try cranking and then feel if one of the battery posts is hot. This indicates a poor connection at that post.

On the V6 the starter is easy to get to. Run a thin wire from the battery positive to the small spade connector on the starter motor. If it now cranks normally the starter is OK and the problem is in the ignition switch or trans inhibitor switch.

If no action, use something metallic to bridge the thick cable to the other big connection on the starter. If it cranks, then the problem is the solenoid. If it doesn't then its the brushes.

For safety, do this with the ignition off, the car in park, handbrake on, and preferably with the front wheels off the ground. Don't want to get run over by out own car, do we?

Yeah no problems with mechaincal work (been trade qual now for 20+ years) lol

Anyways, the problem was discovered today after removing the startermotor.

It has a stuffed brush pack and it was so full of grotty oil which had converted itself into a thick grease like substance, the brush pack was covered, the 2x positive brushes are totally shagged, but after a time consuming clean up of the greasey crap the comutator is testing OK, and Ive decided to just grab a new brush pack for it tomorrow as it is cheaper than a new starter and we are looking to get rid of the car later this year anyways.


Replacement brush pack to order and we will go from there :)

Thanks everyone for all the assistance (Im shagged when it comes to auto-electrics)