Hi all

ive got a prob with my 380 where after about 30 mins of driving it starts to idle at around 950rpm instead of normal 700rpm or whatever when warm.
Ive tried turning engine on and off but still does it. If i leave it to cool for a few hours and start it its back to normal 700rpm but then after 30 - 45 mins of driving the fast idle is back again.
It seems to do it sooner if im giving the car stick and longer if im nursing it around.
Its getting annoying and hoping someone can help

Hi all

ive got a prob with my 380 where after about 30 mins of driving it starts to idle at around 950rpm instead of normal 700rpm or whatever when warm.
Ive tried turning engine on and off but still does it. If i leave it to cool for a few hours and start it its back to normal 700rpm but then after 30 - 45 mins of driving the fast idle is back again.
It seems to do it sooner if im giving the car stick and longer if im nursing it around.
Its getting annoying and hoping someone can help

Never heard of this one before, do you get a CEL as well?

Never heard of this one before, do you get a CEL as well?

thanks for replying, sorry no Check Engine Light at all. I have even hooked up OBD scanner up and no fault codes coming up

thanks for replying, sorry no Check Engine Light at all. I have even hooked up OBD scanner up and no fault codes coming up

Could be a faulty temp sensor or air cond switch & maybe going into cold start/air cond running mode. Being a fly by wire throttle body a sensor somewhere must be telling the ecu to speed the engine up. If it's still under warranty have a chat to your dealer.

yeah iam out of warranty so will just have to book it in at Mitsis and get them to have a look

Very interested to know what the problem is here...

please post the fix.

how can you be out of warranty Terry? - 2005 model 380's are only just hittin 4 and a bit years old now - have you done something to void the warranty?

how can you be out of warranty Terry? - 2005 model 380's are only just hittin 4 and a bit years old now - have you done something to void the warranty?

It's 3 years extended to 5 if you get it checked over I think 3 months before the 3 years is up. May be different on the later models but thats what mine is. Also have a km limit.

how can you be out of warranty Terry? - 2005 model 380's are only just hittin 4 and a bit years old now - have you done something to void the warranty?

ive done 165,000kms so believe its out of warranty?
The five year warranty only applies to original owner and iam the second

Strewth Terry, Thats a lot of Km's for a Tasmanian Driver. Have you had any other problems with the car.

"Mitsubishi’s warranty period for the 380 is five years or 130,000km. It also has a 10-year or 160,000km warranty on the car’s powertrain (engine, transmission and differential), although the latter warranty is non-transferrable."

i havent had much luck since i got it 3 months ago. So far i have the idling issue, noisy lash adjusters and rear power window mechanism broke. I got pulled over the other day by the previous owner and he was telling me how he drove it to darwin and back once a month and thats how he clocked up the kays. Then he proceeded to tell me the only issue he had was the noisy Lash adjusters and the idling issue from around 40,000kms. I asked why he didnt point it out to mitsis and he said he did but they never ever fixed it and gave up after a while. FFS i feel like taking it back to same dealership and telling them its documented and they never fixed it. I guess they will tell me where to go tho.
As far as the power windows i coulndt believe only $100 inc gst brand new for whole mechanism and so far noone had bought one from that dealership. The wreckers wanted 70 bux for it.
When i enquired about other parts prices at wreckers i couldnt believe how cheap parts are. The only reason i can think is they have absolutely no demand for parts due to most vechicles being under warranty still.
Parts for 380s are cheaper than my old TJ magna

Strewth Terry, Thats a lot of Km's for a Tasmanian Driver. Have you had any other problems with the car.

Hi yeah a lot of kays but 90% highway as previous owner scared of flying apparently. LOL
The only other problem i have is knocking thru the steering over bumps so something is loose in supension. Got new tyres last week and the old ones had "scalloped" edging of outside of tread indicates"worn suspension" component. Not sure what exactly so will have to take to pedders or something and get them to have a look

Hey - I had a prb liek that with my MAGNA soppose it may not be the same - however been told that mitsu seems to always have prbs with the ICS motor i have had 3 magnas in the past - all three had that prb (maybe i was unlucky) and also a 2001 Lancer GLXi and had the same prb with that too.

I replaced the ICS motor ($110 brand new afta market 1yr warrenty) and no prbs after that.

You can also give it a clean which can help at times.

I called up it as the $300 mark everywhere except MEKONG in Canley Vale and AUTOXCEL in Edensor Park where it was $110.

Hey - I had a prb liek that with my MAGNA soppose it may not be the same - however been told that mitsu seems to always have prbs with the ICS motor i have had 3 magnas in the past - all three had that prb (maybe i was unlucky) and also a 2001 Lancer GLXi and had the same prb with that too.

I replaced the ICS motor ($110 brand new afta market 1yr warrenty) and no prbs after that.

You can also give it a clean which can help at times.

I called up it as the $300 mark everywhere except MEKONG in Canley Vale and AUTOXCEL in Edensor Park where it was $110.

Thanks for the input , i can try this but not sure the 380 has an Idle Speed controller as it runs fly by wire technology so the whole throttle body is electronic. I might take off the throttle body and give it a clean or maybe find someone with a spare throttle body and see if that fixes it.

The 380 throttle body has a simple DC motor and gear, it is unlikely to allow any dirt in.

If it is dirt it will be on the sensor assembly that seems to be a positional feedback.

Personally I would look elsewhere.

I always think...where could a Human possibly break it?

So...try the accelerator pedal, it's electronic and would have been kicked a million times with wet muddy boots.

It comes off very easily.

Ok after spending the day on the car i think ive soved my issue. Running over the car witha stephoscope to try and work out which HLA's are noisy i worked out the HLA noise was actaully coming from the"evapourative emmission purge solenoid" . I sounds exactly like a tappet noise, so i disconnect the power to it and the noise stopped, went to mitsis and got a replacement for $20 ($10 less than wreckers were asking) and tappet noise is gone and after driving 300 kms i think the fast idle is gone too....

Where in the hell is that solenoid?

Where in the hell is that solenoid?

it connected in between charcoal cannister and intake manifold, close to throttle body, i can take a photo. Apparently a common problem but usually fixed under warranty.
The other thing i fixed today was the knock thru steering wheel i was getting over bumps. Turned out to be stabiliser bar bushes as there looked like way too much movement. Got 2 new ones for 7 bucks each and put them in and voila knock is gone. This is a common fault too, so the mitsi parts guy told me as they seem to chew thru stock he said

Terry can you get pics up

I have that knock too I want to fix it up

it connected in between charcoal cannister and intake manifold, close to throttle body, i can take a photo. Apparently a common problem but usually fixed under warranty.
The other thing i fixed today was the knock thru steering wheel i was getting over bumps. Turned out to be stabiliser bar bushes as there looked like way too much movement. Got 2 new ones for 7 bucks each and put them in and voila knock is gone. This is a common fault too, so the mitsi parts guy told me as they seem to chew thru stock he said

Yep! I had those bushes replaced also.

How hard are they to replace???

BTW when I was in TAS I put 5000kms in a week on a Toyota Avalon

good times awesome roads

The other thing i fixed today was the knock thru steering wheel i was getting over bumps. Turned out to be stabiliser bar bushes as there looked like way too much movement. Got 2 new ones for 7 bucks each and put them in and voila knock is gone. This is a common fault too, so the mitsi parts guy told me as they seem to chew thru stock he said

The stabiliser bar bushes on my 2005/6 VRX were replaced at the 15,000K service, they were shot!

How hard are they to replace???



not too hard if you have a hoist, there are two bolts holding each bush and there are two bushes. Each bush $7 -$8 depending on your dealer. Just buy the bushes and take the car tyo your local mechanic with a hoist and tell them you want them replaced , wouldnt charge anymore than $30 - $50 as its a 15 min job max. Took me a bit longer as i tried to do it with just car ramps which makes it hard to manouvre your hands when your on your back..much easier with a hoist.

can you get better quality bushes or only mitsi ones

(sorry for the Hijack)

can you get better quality bushes or only mitsi ones

(sorry for the Hijack)

good question, nolathane replacements would be good, i might make a phone call now.

I had the bushes done on the 15000 service too must be a weak link..... There were noreplacement nolathane products then that was in 07 though!

my bloody fast idle is back again dammit.I thought the emissions solenoid fixed it as the car runs heaps better with more torque but looks like its not the cause of my fast idle
Looks like ill have to take it to mitsis after all..

I have emailed heasmann steering to see if they can source some poly bushes for the stabliser bars

I will get back to you guys !