We are having trouble with the clutch fork pressing against the bell housing, and i'm stumped for ideas =/
This is on a 3.5L V6

and this is after the throw out bearing clips into the pressure plate.

it's had us stumped all day, so any info would be muchly appreciated

Is this with the clutch pedal up or pressed down? Have you replaced the clutch plate and pressure plate recently? Is it hitting on the bell housing or on the window? Which end of the opening is it hitting?

If you are putting in a new clutch, and the design is like the second gen, that is, the lever pivots on a ball,you need to shim up the ball with one or two 2 mm washers to get the original alignment back.
If it is a pull type clutch then I have NFI - maybe the release bearing is not engaged in the clutch plate correctly, or the lever is not engaged in the release bearing correctly. Check that the pivot components are not worn.

it's the exeedy ones that magnatron sells, we got everything together, but the clutch fork is locked in position away from the master cylinder, and will only move back to mid (with a small amount of effort) and when released it will return facing away from the master cylinder.

and yes, everything just got replaced ~ we were thinking possibly something to do with the flywheel or throw out bearing ~ but we're completely clueless right now =(

Check all your new components against the originals - sounds like you may have the wrong clutch kit!!

Madmax, the clutch is nothing like the second gen, in any way.

Sounds like either one of 2 things has happened, you have not properly engaged the release bearing into the pressure plate or you have not properly engaged the fork onto the 2 fingers on the release bearing

FYI, there is not ball pivot, these have a pin design which requires a small welsh plug to be removed in order to remove the fork

Sounds like a very foolproof design! I've studied it in the manual and it looks straightforward. As Madmagna suggests, there is a problem with assembly - pull it all apart and start again!

i'll have the mechanic check over the release bearing and pressure plate ~ i'm thinking it may be the fork not engaged correctly.

i'm just asking for any advice or help if anyone has had the same issues, so i can print off this post for the mechanic tomorrow.

p.s. thanks madmagna / mad max for the quick responses

are you sure it is hitting the bell housing? and not just having the clutch engage further away from the slave?

remove the boot around the fork and take a pic.

i'll be able to upload pictures tomorrow from the workshop, i'll update with pics approx 8am in the morning

If it is hitting the bell housing it is going wayyyy to far, if this is normal action on this clutch then it is not only very rare but also is something very wrong going on

We are having trouble with the clutch fork pressing against the bell housing, and i'm stumped for ideas =/
This is on a 3.5L V6

and this is after the throw out bearing clips into the pressure plate.

it's had us stumped all day, so any info would be muchly appreciated

Witch excedy clutch did u get the evo one.?

yes the evo one

I would pull it all apart and compare the new bits with the old. Like the clutch spring height measured at the fingers, the distance between the fingers and the bench when the plate is face down on a bench and compare that to the original. Bench assemble the pressure plate with thrust bearing and fork and look for problems. Check the thrust bearing against the original, check everything!

we need to pull the gearbox out again, so that'll take a little while once he opens shop

just remembered that when i did my clutch the clutch plate was way ofset because it is a hd.

when i first went to put the pressure plate on, the centre part or the clutch plate (springs etc) were hitting the pressure plate fingers, therefore not allowing the pressure plate to go in far enough, therefore making the fork sit way to far away from the slave cylindar.

make sure that the only two contact parts between the pressure and clutch plates are the flywheel, and pressure plate disk, otherwise the pressure plate wont pull in fully.

First 4 photo's are the clutch fork with the boot removed, then 2x outside the gearbox, and 2x from underside of bellhousing (up through the little hole)

http://img151.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=dsc00204o.jpg

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/7774/dsc00204o.th.jpg (http://img151.imageshack.us/i/dsc00204o.jpg/)

http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/7275/dsc00194cmq.th.jpg (http://img195.imageshack.us/i/dsc00194cmq.jpg/)

This is the "Relaxed" Position of the clutch fork =.=

http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/1929/dsc00195c.th.jpg (http://img248.imageshack.us/i/dsc00195c.jpg/)

http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/5289/dsc00198ykz.th.jpg (http://img30.imageshack.us/i/dsc00198ykz.jpg/)

Yeh i know it's dirty, just needs a lil tlc =)

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/8866/dsc00199r.th.jpg (http://img193.imageshack.us/i/dsc00199r.jpg/)

http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/6912/dsc00200alk.th.jpg (http://img262.imageshack.us/i/dsc00200alk.jpg/)

Shots from under the bellhousing up through the little hole.

http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/4036/dsc00201b.th.jpg (http://img262.imageshack.us/i/dsc00201b.jpg/)

http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/2661/dsc00202o.th.jpg (http://img262.imageshack.us/i/dsc00202o.jpg/)

Hope the photos are what you asked for

I had problems with my evo clutch aswell but all the problems saughted out after a while but was a pain in the ass

Ok, we need about 5-10mm pushed back into the engine to have enough room for the clutch fork to operate correctly with the throwout bearing, am i forgetting something? or need to do something to free up 5-10mm between the crank and pressureplate?

if everything is the same size, it must be that the pressure plate isnt going towards the motor far enough, therefore not pulling the fork in fully.

have you checked that the fork isnt bent?

did you check what i said in my last post?

also, was the clutch plat the same thickness, plus about 5mm?
good luck.

if everything is the same size, it must be that the pressure plate isnt going towards the motor far enough, therefore not pulling the fork in fully.

have you checked that the fork isnt bent?

did you check what i said in my last post?

also, was the clutch plat the same thickness, plus about 5mm?
good luck.

yes, exactly 5mm larger than the original, fork is not bent as far as i know i got quite a few photos of the fork and the shots from the inspection hole under the gearbox

is there anything that may have forgotton to be taken out during the conversion that would result in +5'ish MM towards to bellhousing?

there is a known issue with magnas and exedy HD clutches...

what happens is the clutch plate wont sit inside the flywheel.. so what you end up with is the clutch platpe sitting like 10mm off the flywheel...

this has come up before

i reckon thats the issue youve got mate...

no choice but to rip gearbox off and have a look

please send pics of pressure plate attached to vehicle, with gearbox removed, as per my PM request....

perhaps do i need a different style of flywheel? or is it a mounting issue? i sent a pm with the directionals that the plate was installed

there is a known issue with magnas and exedy HD clutches...

what happens is the clutch plate wont sit inside the flywheel.. so what you end up with is the clutch platpe sitting like 10mm off the flywheel...

this has come up before

i reckon thats the issue youve got mate...

no choice but to rip gearbox off and have a look


like i said in a previous post, all i had to do to fix this problem was to spin the clutch plate around so that the ofset was towards the motor, not towards the box.

mine was definatley touching the pressure plate fingers. stopping it from pulling in fully.

sounds very similar to mine, i can't get the photo's for grem at the moment ~ it's too dark outside for me to do it at the moment ~: updates around 9am tomorrow morning

also bellto was it 5 - 10mm difference spinning it around to change the offset?

i never did my pressure plate right up because i could see it wasnt right, but it was well and truley pushing on the fingers, also, because of the length of the fingers, 2mm where it is hitting may make it more like 10mm at the throw out bearing, due to the length of the fingers.

my ofset (off the top of my head) was around 10 mm not including sprins sticking out a bit.

the original plate was ofset evenly, around 5mm either side, but the new hd replacement was fully ofset to ONE side. on my car, the ofset side needed to go towards the engine.

also, loosen off your pressure plate just so you can spin the clutch plate with the pressure plate still on.
if it makes a scraping noise, it isnt right.

also, if you get it right, expect the fork to be slightly closer to the bell housing, due to the thickness of the new clutch plate compared to the old worn down one.

very true, does your fork sit on the housing at all? or just above it? and is your release point having the end of the fork sitting in the middle ? (same as a standard one would) because i'm hoping there are no needed modifications to the slave cylinder needed =(

ahh your saying the clutch plate offset was 5mm either side ~ and the exedy one is 10mm offset to one side only, that does make alot of sense ~ and i'm hoping that is the issue.

everything else bolts up perfectly so far, but this has been the only issue we've encounted that put us at a deadend

this is my clutch when it is engaged:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm292/bellto/04082009398.jpg

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm292/bellto/04082009399.jpg

that also reminds me, when i did my clutch, i had to make a longer ram (silver thing) for the slave cylindar, becuse whenever i pushed the clutch in it would blow the piston out of my slave cylindar. there was somethong i had to replace that i didnt, (this isnt your problem though)

Bellto is awesome.

ahh your saying the clutch plate offset was 5mm either side ~ and the exedy one is 10mm offset to one side only, that does make alot of sense ~ and i'm hoping that is the issue.

everything else bolts up perfectly so far, but this has been the only issue we've encounted that put us at a deadend

now your cooking with gas.

the exedy's offset is all on one side instead of both like the oem.

spin the offset into the motor and it will be sweet (if thats your problem, i hope it is coz then your all good)

good luck for tomorrow, :pray::pray::bowdown::pray::pray:

I would complain bitterly to the supplier and manufacturer of the kit if this is true, especially if the difference is not pointed out in the instructions! Exeedy suxs big time if the modified the original design and don't point this out. They should be aware that some people put the evo kit into a Magna.

Also, it is natural to place the offset into the pressure plate as this is how it is set up on most conventional clutch systems, most cars if you flip the clutch plate the spring pack will hit the flywheel bolts

It is not really a design fault more so than exedy using a std plate pack that is common to another car

BTW< what was the part number for yours and what model car as Grem told me a while back about the difference is flywheel size on the TH and J being larger diameter thus if you have the TF you may have an issue here as well

i think it was from a th. i'll find that out aswell tomorrow when business hours apply =)

thanks again to all so far, i'll be updating this thread as we continue ~ and i'll find out which part number it is i believe it's from a TH

Also bellto do you have the specs for the silver piece you had made up ? (just incase i require to have one made aswell)

Pressure Plate
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/6123/dsc00209pxu.th.jpg (http://img22.imageshack.us/i/dsc00209pxu.jpg/)
http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/9792/dsc00210qay.th.jpg (http://img33.imageshack.us/i/dsc00210qay.jpg/)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Clutch Plate
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/9027/dsc00216b.th.jpg (http://img188.imageshack.us/i/dsc00216b.jpg/)
http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/5914/dsc00218xvm.th.jpg (http://img33.imageshack.us/i/dsc00218xvm.jpg/)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

The way NOT to do it? (confirm please !)
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http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/7326/dsc00220ycu.th.jpg (http://img188.imageshack.us/i/dsc00220ycu.jpg/)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

The way they should sit together? (Confirm please!)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/8514/dsc00221n.th.jpg (http://img529.imageshack.us/i/dsc00221n.jpg/)
http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/7165/dsc00222zdj.th.jpg (http://img188.imageshack.us/i/dsc00222zdj.jpg/)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Photo's Courtesy to macca's carpark lighting at 5am :D

ok, this is exactly like mine, same colour and all.

put the ofset into the flywheel just with your hand and see if it will fit without touching anything else, i am 99% sure it will be good. just out of interest did you check to see if it was hitting when you had the offset towards the press plate?

the way you have it should be the correct way, i did mine like that,

an as madmagna said it is usually opposite (the way you had it) but it now need o go into the flywheel (same as last pic)

edit: messuring silver thing

to make mine i just used a good quality screw driver the same thickness of the original silver thing.
just cut it off the correct size and round it with the bench grinder.

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm292/bellto/05082009401.jpg

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm292/bellto/05082009402.jpg

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm292/bellto/05082009403.jpg

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm292/bellto/05082009404.jpg

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm292/bellto/05082009405.jpg

awesome ty, i'm off to the mechanics now ~ hopefully good news soon :D

cool, fingers crossed:pray:

even though it did come to mind that the clutch plate would be put in backwards, i kept thinking a mechanic was doing this job so it couldnt be!! :roflwtf:

hope thats all your problem is mate..

but if it isnt, check what i've mentioned to you (feel free to give me a call as discussed)

uploading photo's now of the friction points by having the clutch installed with the offset towards the bell housing.


http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/9376/flywheel.th.jpg (http://img174.imageshack.us/i/flywheel.jpg/)

http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/9307/clutche.th.jpg (http://img39.imageshack.us/i/clutche.jpg/)

These are the points of friction from the rivets on the clutch, the marks on the clutch are hard to see in the photo but trust me they are very visible.

hold the clutch plate up against the flywheel

the friction area should sit flush with the flywheel and you should be able to spin the clutch plate easily..

if it feels like its jamming OR the friction surface of the clutch plate wont sit flush with the flywheel then you either have the clutch plate backwards OR you have the issue ive been telling you about...

issues appears to be same as this one

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52699&highlight=clutch

requires the centre bore of the flywheel to be machined out in order for the clutch plate to clear and sit flat, rather than sitting 5-10mm off the flywheel, like it was

how is it going?

+1 gremlin

like i said earlier, try it by hand first, to save you the drama of pulling it apart again.

so have you tried putting the clutch into the fly yet

so have you tried putting the clutch into the fly yet

well after seeing the pics of his flywheel and pressure plate with the marks all over them its obvious what has gone wrong... so i guess there is no real need

i know that, but i am wondering if it is going to work the way i said or not, thats all.

i know that, but i am wondering if it is going to work the way i said or not, thats all.

so you thinking the mechanic has installed the clutch plate backwards?

why did you have to extend your slave cylinder rod? that doesnt sound healthy man. what went wrong with your install?

So is this problem caused by an install error, an Exedy design fault, or because he is putting an evo clutch in?

exedy design fault + install error, which is fixed by just installing it the wrong way around which just happens to have a perfect fit into the flywheel / pressure plate (rivets into pressure plate + springs into flywheel)

just checking to see what that guide plate lookin thing is on the flywheel that's there, it doesn't seem it needs to be and it's in the way of the clutch (only just)

Oh and problem because it's an evo clutch.

Basically it's quite a few things that have to be done to fit it all, i'll have a complete write up once it is finished.

So anyone know if that bracket is needed on the flywheel? (looks like a guide plate)

also, i can see that both solutions will be a positive ending at this point of the installation.

Either machining the flywheel back and having the offset towards the bellhouse, or by putting the offset inside the flywheel (seems a very comfy fit with plenty of movement, but not enough for the clutch to actually slip)

exedy design fault + install error, which is fixed by just installing it the wrong way around which just happens to have a perfect fit into the flywheel / pressure plate (rivets into pressure plate + springs into flywheel)

just checking to see what that guide plate lookin thing is on the flywheel that's there, it doesn't seem it needs to be and it's in the way of the clutch (only just)

Oh and problem because it's an evo clutch.

Basically it's quite a few things that have to be done to fit it all, i'll have a complete write up once it is finished.

So anyone know if that bracket is needed on the flywheel? (looks like a guide plate)

Mate, this guide plate, got a pic so we can see what the plate you are talking about is

http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/9376/flywheel.th.jpg (http://img174.imageshack.us/i/flywheel.jpg/)

that one right in the middle

if you go full screen on it, you can see up close the points that it's fouling on when the mech "fitted" the clutch with the rivets facing the flywheel.

snow, after speaking to you today and thinking about this issue more i believe your installer put the clutch plate in backwards... i also believe this is what chisholms installer did, as per the thread i linked to...

not cool but atleast we appear to have found the issue...


(really wish i took pics of my magna or evo clutch install rights now.. so hard to remember how it all looked)

nono it's the centre part that you can see through, from side on it's easier to see that's where it's hitting.

and with knowing that, it would be the same as bellto has done via removing it completely, and inserting the clutch with offset into flywheel.

Basically the middle teeth in the clutch on the offset side are the farmost point of the unit, but i'll update once we get crackin at it in the morning =)

ll llll
ll llll
lll llll
lll' .llll
lll= =l== <------ Problem in middle where the plate + teeth fight for the same spot :p
lll. 'llll
lll llll
ll llll
ll llll



Clutch with offset facing -------> (flywheel)

Yes i know it's a dodgy flywheel picture :D

so you think it will work once you do a bellto?

so you thinking the mechanic has installed the clutch plate backwards?

why did you have to extend your slave cylinder rod? that doesnt sound healthy man. what went wrong with your install?


guessing it something to do with the fact i have a 6g72 motor i am guessing, one or 2 parts are not exactly compatible.

clutch has done 11000 k/s and is still perfect.

maybey a slightly longer throwout bearing, or clutch plate thickness. (prolly not, but just throwing it out there)


snow, after speaking to you today and thinking about this issue more i believe your installer put the clutch plate in backwards

no, the clutch was put in the correct way (offset into pressure plate) but on these magnas, the offset must go towards the flywheel (ie wrong way, as it isnt designed to go there, but its the way to make it work)

this is what i was saying on page 2.

well we'll see soon enough, it's looking very similar in all the conversion so far (i copied most my information from a 3.0L conversion thread) things to note though, is you will need to get things like manual drive shafts with ABS teeth on the CV's (magnatron organised that for me)

i checked over with the service manuals for the th / kh models and cross referenced everything i could ~ and so far so good till we had this issue with the clutch (hopefully it's resolved the same way as others have had this issue before)

so your doning a conversion, is it a verada? manual sc verada is my dream car

yes it is a verada, 99 model KH EI =.= keeping the auto ECU with her aswell

The actual shafts are the same, it is the intermediate shaft that is different by approx 5mm

You could also go a step further and use a manual ECU and harness, the manual ECU has a better timing curve for starters so you get more benefit from the conversion

Wont i lose alot of luxuries from the verada if i use the manual ECU?

dont think so, the ecu is just engine management, (not climate control etc) i dont know about trace and abs though, i would think not. how is the clutch?

the guys are giving me a call soon to let me know how it goes, and if i replace the auto ECU in the rada, and use a manual ECU from a TH model magna ~ i'd have to change my BCM wouldn't i?

the guys are giving me a call soon to let me know how it goes, and if i replace the auto ECU in the rada, and use a manual ECU from a TH model magna ~ i'd have to change my BCM wouldn't i?

Nope, you can get them re programmed as well, is worth it. Or you can cheat and make sure you get the keys and locks from the donor car as well

I have taken pics of a std clutch plate if needed, they are not set up so the springs are centre, they are set up exactly like the exedy set up and like 99% others out there with the spring pack to one side, the side that faces the pressure plate.

i'll cheat with the auto ecu for now, as i have already connected the reverse plug etc, and are you saying that the offset should be into the back of the pressure plate for the clutch plate that i have ????

because we sent the flywheel away to be machined / balanced suited to have the offset towards the motor. (only reason for machining / rebalancing is because of the damage done by the other mechanic)

Nope, you can get them re programmed as well, is worth it. Or you can cheat and make sure you get the keys and locks from the donor car as well

I have taken pics of a std clutch plate if needed, they are not set up so the springs are centre, they are set up exactly like the exedy set up and like 99% others out there with the spring pack to one side, the side that faces the pressure plate.

my std clutch plate was about 4.5 mm on one side and 5.5mm on the other? almost exactly centred.

also the spring pack in my std clutch had springs and rubbers, not just springs. also the 5.5mm side went to the press. plate. but my new hd exedy is offset to flywheel

bellto, how do you find it to drive with the offset against the flywheel?

normal, a tiny bit easier to stall due to being a bit heavier

normal, a tiny bit easier to stall due to being a bit heavier

heaver? cause you put the clutch disc in backwards?

:headbange

because it is a hd.

:headbange

because it is a hd.

:facejump:

that makes more sense...

fyi, measurements have been done ~ sent the flywheel to be machined and now it's being balanced to suit the pressure plate / clutch.

gonna be a very nice fit once we get it back, pics will come once we continue the install (may not be until monday =.=)

my std clutch plate was about 4.5 mm on one side and 5.5mm on the other? almost exactly centred.

also the spring pack in my std clutch had springs and rubbers, not just springs. also the 5.5mm side went to the press. plate. but my new hd exedy is offset to flywheel

That is sure strange as I have a factory clutch here, it has the springs as well as the rubber buffers however all offset is to the pressure plate side and is 12mm in total

The other side has a small lip where the input shaft goes through, is only about 2mm though

This one I measured up is a Factory Fitted item too

that's weird, most magnas have a 5mm offset either side

lol Mitsu likes to do running changes to their designs without telling anyone. Alo the suppliers of the clutch components probably made their own running changes, I guess as long as nothing fouls and the total clutch plate support on the input shaft is the same, it doesn't matter that much - but it can be a real headache for someone who wants to put an aftermarket evo clutch in their Magna, as we have seen! lol

Rubber buffers vs springs.
The buffers are there to dampen any harmonic resonances in the clutch, that can be felt as shudder under some conditions. This works well when the plate is new, but the rubber deteriorates and collapses with age, and the springs also collapse and get wear on their supports. Then you get freeplay between the disc and centre, and the clutch will chatter. Letting the clutch up at higher revs than usual solves this somewhat. The best design is the springs only design, with smaller springs inside the main ones. If the 4 smaller springs are all slightly different in their tension and size, this helps a lot to stop chatter down the track. Obviously a solid plate or puck clutch won't ever get to chatter, but then you transmit engine firing pulses to the gearbox. Its all a compromise between smoothness, durability and preventing shockloads on the gearbox components.

i know you said it was the mech that casued all the issues, put can you please post up a guide or the actual problems you had and how they where fixed

thanks

i know you said it was the mech that casued all the issues, put can you please post up a guide or the actual problems you had and how they where fixed

thanks

PROBLEM: clutch hangs up on flywheel.
SOLUTION: machine flywheel.

Simple!

Read the whole thread for further details.:io:

just had the flywheel machine and balanced for the clutch kit, with the offset (spring thingies) facing into the flywheel =)

just had the flywheel machine and balanced for the clutch kit, with the offset (spring thingies) facing into the flywheel =)

hey mate.. been wondering how you got on.. is the car back on the road?

back on the road, and holy sh!t is all i can say =) the torque is incredible and with pirelli 4 season tires, it still chirps 3 / 4th, and will spin 2nd if i'm not lucky when giving it a bit of throttle :(

back on the road, and holy sh!t is all i can say =) the torque is incredible and with pirelli 4 season tires, it still chirps 3 / 4th, and will spin 2nd if i'm not lucky when giving it a bit of throttle :(

hahah
glad to hear the car is back on the road mate

back on the road, and holy sh!t is all i can say =) the torque is incredible and with pirelli 4 season tires, it still chirps 3 / 4th, and will spin 2nd if i'm not lucky when giving it a bit of throttle :(

All fun until the diff blows up

back on the road, and holy sh!t is all i can say =) the torque is incredible and with pirelli 4 season tires, it still chirps 3 / 4th, and will spin 2nd if i'm not lucky when giving it a bit of throttle :(

Hay mate can i ask. Do u get a thud when chirping gears.? Cause i do and all my engine mounts are brand new and it only does this after fitting my evo clutch.

Hay mate can i ask. Do u get a thud when chirping gears.? Cause i do and all my engine mounts are brand new and it only does this after fitting my evo clutch.

how many km's on your car man? i

to me that sounds like suspension issues if your getting a thud while "chirping gears"...

your blaming alot on your clutch mate.. like i keep saying its a pretty "light" clutch in the scheme of things..

no thud at all, and most my mounts are still broken ~ bringing to the question of that kelpro mount you had

http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/889/dsc001151a.th.jpg (http://img16.imageshack.us/i/dsc001151a.jpg/)
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/8040/dsc001172.th.jpg (http://img20.imageshack.us/i/dsc001172.jpg/)

Which way does it go?????

we had some serious issues with this mount so far, car is in the workshop overnight till we can figure out wtf they were thinkin when they made this =.=

btw it's the passenger side mount (gearbox)

how many km's on your car man? i

to me that sounds like suspension issues if your getting a thud while "chirping gears"...

your blaming alot on your clutch mate.. like i keep saying its a pretty "light" clutch in the scheme of things..

Only reason why i blame the clutch is because it never mad a thud before this clutch. And before i had this clutch i had 2 broken mounts. Now with clutch all new mounts. The thud has improved of co**** but still noticable. Cars done 220km. Wat else could be making it do this.?

no thud at all, and most my mounts are still broken ~ bringing to the question of that kelpro mount you had

http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/889/dsc001151a.th.jpg (http://img16.imageshack.us/i/dsc001151a.jpg/)
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/8040/dsc001172.th.jpg (http://img20.imageshack.us/i/dsc001172.jpg/)

Which way does it go?????

we had some serious issues with this mount so far, car is in the workshop overnight till we can figure out wtf they were thinkin when they made this =.=

btw it's the passenger side mount (gearbox)

Hay mate this mount went fine in my car. Actually the quility of it seems good. My cars in workshop atm. I think the screw inlet is facing up the top.

Only reason why i blame the clutch is because it never mad a thud before this clutch. And before i had this clutch i had 2 broken mounts. Now with clutch all new mounts. The thud has improved of co**** but still noticable. Cars done 220km. Wat else could be making it do this.?

i'll bet you a hell of a lot of money that if you had of optioned for an oem replacement clutch for your magna (ie stock clutch but new) you'd be in the EXACT same situation you are now. including g/box and diff's issues and this thud your talking about..

you went from a slipping clutch to a clutch that grabs well... if you thrash a worn out car with a good grippy clutch, things are going to make noises/bangs and break unforunatly.. 220k isnt a fresh car... the car is getting old... an old cr@p clutch that doesnt grab to well is going to be less harsh on your ageing drive line..

yes it seems you found all this out since you put a new clutch in the car.. but its not the clutches fault dude.. your getting there fixing your problems.. find out what this bang is and you'll be one step closer to a mechanically healthy car

the clutch is only ever as harsh as you make it.

end of the day, if you think the clutch is too harsh, let the pedal out slower.

the clutch is only ever as harsh as you make it.

end of the day, if you think the clutch is too harsh, let the pedal out slower.

good call

the clutch is only ever as harsh as you make it.

end of the day, if you think the clutch is too harsh, let the pedal out slower.

Your logic is overloading my brain cells! Kurt won't like this! He likes his chirpies!

Ive had a look at the suspension components and theres a broken steering rack end boot. and broken tie rod end boot aswell. Slightly cracked control arm bushes this is only on the left side. Can these contribute to the thud.?

definitley, the control arm bares alot of the force from the wheels pushing and braking.

tie rod bushes would probably not affect the acceleration clunk, (they might) but would probaly make you steering wheel feel sloppy and clunky.

also, check all muffler components and rubbers, after 220k, the muffler/exhust pipes may be hittin the car frame somwhere, the sudden jolt of a 'chirpy' (haha) may make the pipes rub/hit the car somewhere.

check your wheel bearings, may have some play,

check the support bracket and bearing on the drivers side axecv shaft (axel),

make sure that the splines on both cv shafts dont slide to far in and out of the gearbox and outer hub.

thats where i would start. it sounds to me like it could be the control arm though.:mits:

Now to get back on topig god forbid

I have just fitted an exedy clutch to my new motor and fitted the box

The clutch plate went in the correct way, the whole lot has mated up fine and the clutch fork is exactly where it should be

Dont know what was going on with the above

i just had a look on the exedy site and emailed a rep and he said that there is no actual heavy duty clutch made by exedy to suit my car.1996 Te. They only make oem spec. I didnt think to look for the later models. I am guessing that there is no sports tuff for mine because of a difference in a component or 2; also by the time my model car needed new clutches. The 3.5 was already available . Thats why my clutch probably didnt go together seemlessley.

either way, the first mecha messed up hell bad ~ and we tried bellto's way and it worked 100% and after measurements were done, and everything was checked over, we realised it was a perfect setup that way

yeah, i am just trying to think why i needed to make a longer ram for mine, because i had the same problem as you with spinning the plate around, but you arent having the ram issues......

unless the piston in the slave cylindar wears out???? my piston seems to go very far in.??

confirmation it doesnt wear anyone? im pretty sure it doesnt.


but snow i a guessing that you got a new or recon slave cylindar, so that may explain why you didnt need one.

yeh, had my slave resleeved same with the master