OK guys what are the best engine mods to do that really give you bang for your buck ($$$ into power).

I have a TJ may 02 Tiptronic auto.

ecu flash, cams, extractors, exhaust with high flow cat, EZBOY high flowed throttle body. the list goes on and on but all depends how much your willing to spend and it helps if you can do some of the mechanical work yourself. cheers luke.

the most restrictive thing on a magna is its exhaust, so full exhaust system will make a big difference (Extractors, Front flex pipe, Cat, Cat-back, and Muffler).

Clear side indicators, lowering, paras, and "JDM AS ****" stickers :)

Seriously though, the most restrictive thing on a magna is its exhaust, so full exhaust system will make a big difference (Extractors, Front flex pipe, Cat, Cat-back, and Muffler).

how much would it cost for a full exhaust system?

how much would it cost for a full exhaust system?

$1000-$1500....depends on products i guess.............

ecu flash by steve and the exhaust system (mainly the muffler, flex pipe and headers) are the best bang for buck.

If you don't have a Sports/VR-X/GTVi model, the exhaust is the best mod you can do. The rear muffler is the only difference between the base and sports Series II model, yet it's responsible for an 8kw increase in power. You don't have to go for extractors and a full replacement system - just replacing the rear muffler will give you best bang for buck.

It's not an engine mod, but beefing up your suspension is the best way to improve the overall performance of your car IMO. Stiffer springs and aftermarket shocks will make a huge improvement in handling. Grippy tyres and a bigger rear sway bar will also make a noticable improvement. Plus you can use the opportunity to lower your car too - kill two birds (performance and aesthetics) with one stone. A set of King Springs and KYB shocks is cheaper than extractors and a full exhaust system, yet it'd bring a bigger smile to your dial (or at least my dial anyway).

Seeing as tho you have a TJ S2, I'm going to assume it's not a Sports/VRX. Best bang for your buck mods would be first to get a free flow muffler - leave the exhaust system alone and just get a new muffler.

After that I'd probably look at some cams or a supercharger kit.

There's really bugger all point in doing a full exhaust system, intake etc on a stock Magna. The stock exhaust and intake are already good, and the tune is already quite good too.

Borstalboy, we appologise for all the stupid spamming comments you received, you will see that these have been all cleaned up and I am hoping that the people concerned will be more mature in future and not spam the tech sections.....we live and hope

In so far as the mods go for the performance, all of the remaining posts are pretty much spot on. The factory engine pipe is actually a good set up for a stock one and in so far as bang for buck there is not much there in changing.

With what ever you do, get your cams done if you want, DONT TOUCH YOUR TB OR INTAKE, is not worth it as Jasonsvrx is hitting up something like 200kw on stock items. Do some exhaust work and then once done head over to Steve Knight and get a proper retune done, that last item will be by far the best bang for buck you will get for these cars as he is one of the few who has actually been able to verify the improvements

Another bang for buck in IMHO is a K&N panel air filter. May not give "extra power" but does make a noticable difference in drivability, especially when overtaking on the highway. Costs about $90 but you have it for life (it's cleanable), regular air filter is about $40.

Best Bang for Buck i did was cold air intake. Bought some 4inch aluminium pipe, some rubber flex hose (45 degree bend, and a round 4" to Oval 3.5inch rubber adapter) and a round Blitz pod. All up, around $140.

Also did exhaust system with free flow mufflers, for around $600 (cat back)

then once done head over to Steve Knight and get a proper retune done, that last item will be by far the best bang for buck you will get for these cars as he is one of the few who has actually been able to verify the improvements

Hi, I own a 2003 TL LS, very happy with my car but reading this thread got me thinking... Is Steve Knight in NSW? Anyone have his contact details? The idea of getting my ecu flashed or otherwise tuned sounds appealing. Could someone please give me a general idea how much this costs? Is it merely reprogramming the ecu or "chipping" that is done with our 3rd gens?

Cheers,
Aj

Hi, I own a 2003 TL LS, very happy with my car but reading this thread got me thinking... Is Steve Knight in NSW? Anyone have his contact details? The idea of getting my ecu flashed or otherwise tuned sounds appealing. Could someone please give me a general idea how much this costs? Is it merely reprogramming the ecu or "chipping" that is done with our 3rd gens?

Cheers,
Aj

Steve Knight is in Adelaide, he will do remote flashes if you send him an ECU, but the results will not be as good as driving there and having it done in realtime on the dyno.

As stated above to bang for your buck mods would be K&N panel filter and replace rear muffler with free flow. You could do those to things for around $300 and enjoy a car that breathes much better. Another is getting a High Flow Throttle Body from the member Ezboy for around $100. After that your 'bang for buck' goes out the door, engine mods for magna's are expensive and limited in availability. As someone suggested suspension, brakes and wheels/tyres can net a more noticable and enjoyable gain both in driveability of the car and asthetics. I personally believe getting the things listed above to be a priority over huge performence mods like s/charger or big N/A power as id like to first know I can actually go round a corner and stop before I start going really quick.

personally i think the HighFlow TB avenue is a load of shit, its the same as opening the throttle a tiny bit more

it feels faster because essentially the throttle is slightly more 'open'

back to back dyno's i doubt there would be any difference you can acurately measure.

Steve Knight is in Adelaide, he will do remote flashes if you send him an ECU, but the results will not be as good as driving there and having it done in realtime on the dyno.

Thanks mate. I agree, I'd probably feel happier having the ecu tuned in realtime. Unfortunately, I'm not sure if I'll get to drive over to lovely Adelaide again anytime soon as we've just had a baby :facejump:

Can any NSW members recommend someone around Sydney who'll do a good job of flashing my ecu (2003 TL LS 4spd triptronic) for a little more power / torque?

My car is bog standard except for the following I've added:

1. Footwell lights (wired in a pair of ultra bright white LEDs bought from Dick Smiths)
2. Ignition key barrel illumination (cool blue LED sourced from same)
3. JVC double din DVD player (KW-AVX810) with reverse camera (wired it all in myself. Works beautifully.)
4. Rhino TX alarm - purely for the 2-stage shock sensor (so much as sneeze near the car and it tells you off with warning beeps; persist and she launches into full siren mode). My car was broken into TWICE previously :roflwtf:

As you can see, nothing major, and certainly nothing that contributes to a better ride / performance.

Thanks mate. I agree, I'd probably feel happier having the ecu tuned in realtime. Unfortunately, I'm not sure if I'll get to drive over to lovely Adelaide again anytime soon as we've just had a baby :facejump:

Can any NSW members recommend someone around Sydney who'll do a good job of flashing my ecu (2003 TL LS 4spd triptronic) for a little more power / torque?

My car is bog standard except for the following I've added:

1. Footwell lights (wired in a pair of ultra bright white LEDs bought from Dick Smiths)
2. Ignition key barrel illumination (cool blue LED sourced from same)
3. JVC double din DVD player (KW-AVX810) with reverse camera (wired it all in myself. Works beautifully.)
4. Rhino TX alarm - purely for the 2-stage shock sensor (so much as sneeze near the car and it tells you off with warning beeps; persist and she launches into full siren mode). My car was broken into TWICE previously :roflwtf:

As you can see, nothing major, and certainly nothing that contributes to a better ride / performance.

I believe there are no other tuners whom can flash a stock magna ECU as of yet, speaking to Type40 last night he said Steve has 1 of only 2 of these machines in australia. Steve has 1, MMAL have the other.

You could go the piggyback route, but I believe you'll end up paying more then driving to adelaide and having it flashed with the same if not less gain.

With what ever you do, get your cams done if you want, DONT TOUCH YOUR TB OR INTAKE, is not worth it as Jasonsvrx is hitting up something like 200kw on stock items.



Another is getting a High Flow Throttle Body from the member Ezboy for around $100.

i have to agree with madmagna here..

save the $100 on the throttle body, waste of money

Save the $90 for the K&N panel filter too. They do absolutely nothing except for let more dust and shit into your engine.

:stoopid:

I flowed my own t/b, very easy mod. Well worth it, as it completely removed the horrible .5 sec. hesitation i had on take-off and made it more responsive maneuvering around at low rpm.
The MMAL test boy's think it was designed as it is for your average Joe Blow cardigan types.
Steve Knight commented on the difference in responsiveness to standard when putting my car on his rollers....fairly touchy.lol

Basic maintenance is also a good bang for buck 'mod'.

Things like:
Cleaning your throttle body (15minutes $4 can of TB cleaner and a rag)
Cleaning your MAF (5minutes and $8 can of MAF cleaner)
Oil/filter change
Air filter change
Spark plugs
Dizzy

Basic things you can do yourself, that will not make power - but make the car a lot more responsive.

I flowed my own t/b, very easy mod. Well worth it, as it completely removed the horrible .5 sec. hesitation i had on take-off and made it more responsive maneuvering around at low rpm.
The MMAL test boy's think it was designed as it is for your average Joe Blow cardigan types.
Steve Knight commented on the difference in responsiveness to standard when putting my car on his rollers....fairly touchy.lol

yeh i personally didnt like the touchiness of the throttle.. but i know what your talking about.. the high flowed TB did change the way the pedal felt..

i went back to a standard TB... two reason.. one, i didnt like how touchy the pedal was.. and.. the car saw absolutly no difference what so ever on the dyno (which i should have expected but this was 5 years ago when the only other mod i had was a pod filter and didnt no much about magna modying)

...i had the car sitting on a dyno..ran it. fitted high flow throttle body, ran it.. did absolutly nothing what so ever.. which made sense.. as the throttle body is still exactly the same size and will flow exactly the same amount of air...

Might be a better mod for an auto.

well if you have an auto the first performance mod should be manual swap ;)

Best bang for buck in my opinion is to...

1st, Change the rear muffler as previously said. If you get yourself a good 2nd hand TJ/L/W VRX one it will still be pretty quiet but flow well due to the straight through design. Maybe $100 in good condition or if you prefer something louder go something aftermarket.

2nd, Extractors. I have Pacemakers and am very happy with what they did for the car. It picked up torque and revs out cleaner. Your car being an auto the Pacemakers would be the go.

3rd, Hi flow cat. Get a 200 cpi one. Maybe 2.5 inch or 3. I have a 3 myself but reputable people i know of swear by the 2.5. Look at Magnaflow and maybe Redback as 2 good brands.

4th, A new flex. 2.5 inch at least.

4th, Get the ECU reflashed. I had mine tuned for 98 octane but you can also get this done to suit 95. Just don't expect the gains to be as big. Its all to do with how much money you are comfortable spending on fuel. I haven't the need to worry too much as mine is also running SVI LPG.

So... $100 for a muffler + fitting
$650 for extractors fitted
$200 for cat delivered +
$150 for new flex and cat fitted
$500 for the ECU reflash

So a total of $1600 will get you a punchy Magna without breaking into the engine.

As others have said don't touch the intake. The standard one is perfectly fine and can support very reasonable power. If you spend your money wisely you will get excellent gains and these engines respond well when mods are made in the right areas.

Best bang for buck in my opinion is to...

1st, Change the rear muffler as previously said. If you get yourself a good 2nd hand TJ/L/W VRX one it will still be pretty quiet but flow well due to the straight through design. Maybe $100 in good condition or if you prefer something louder go something aftermarket.

2nd, Extractors. I have Pacemakers and am very happy with what they did for the car. It picked up torque and revs out cleaner. Your car being an auto the Pacemakers would be the go.

3rd, Hi flow cat. Get a 200 cpi one. Maybe 2.5 inch or 3. I have a 3 myself but reputable people i know of swear by the 2.5. Look at Magnaflow and maybe Redback as 2 good brands.

4th, A new flex. 2.5 inch at least.

4th, Get the ECU reflashed. I had mine tuned for 98 octane but you can also get this done to suit 95. Just don't expect the gains to be as big. Its all to do with how much money you are comfortable spending on fuel. I haven't the need to worry too much as mine is also running SVI LPG.

So... $100 for a muffler + fitting
$650 for extractors fitted
$200 for cat delivered +
$150 for new flex and cat fitted
$500 for the ECU reflash

So a total of $1600 will get you a punchy Magna without breaking into the engine.

As others have said don't touch the intake. The standard one is perfectly fine and can support very reasonable power. If you spend your money wisely you will get excellent gains and these engines respond well when mods are made in the right areas.
Great post mate. Completely agree!

Disciple Save the $90 for the K&N panel filter too. They do absolutely nothing except for let more dust and shit into your engine.

gremlin save the $100 on the throttle body, waste of money
The first 'mod' i did, if you can call it that was the K&N panel. I honestly found the car felt better. As for the HF TB, i have no personal dealings with them, but from only reading reviews from more and more members its seems a fairly worthwhile mod. I simply suggested these items as they are 'cheap' in comparison to the $1600 worth of mods Type40 suggested. Im sure they are good but its still $1600, a fair bit of cash when some magnas aren't worth much more.

The first 'mod' i did, if you can call it that was the K&N panel. I honestly found the car felt better. As for the HF TB, i have no personal dealings with them, but from only reading reviews from more and more members its seems a fairly worthwhile mod. I simply suggested these items as they are 'cheap' in comparison to the $1600 worth of mods Type40 suggested. Im sure they are good but its still $1600, a fair bit of cash when some magnas aren't worth much more.

Everyone has differing ideas to what cheap mods are. Personally i think what i gained for $1600 was a bargain!

But, to someone who has little cash but wants to enhance the performance of their Magna i would suggest that the muffler is the very first thing to do.

Guys, I firstly want to say thanks for the great info in this thread

The tb thing, it is not flowed, it simply has a lip removed from the body that was put there in order to have the throttle response smooth under slight plate opening. The throttle plate does not change in any way so I fail to see on any openening more than just off closed how more air can flow as it will still have a restriction there.

All you will acheive is more power at a smaller opening compared to the amout of power acheived for a slightly more open plate (damn this is so hard to explain in text here without having the TB to show you all what I actually mean)

The way this is done is also not exactly smooth either, the ones I have seen done by people at home are generally fairly rough as the dremmel used has a very small bit and the nature of the soft allow makes it very hard to be smooth and consistant.

There have been attempts to adapt a larger plate into our throttle bodies and many of these have failed as the plate has not been closing properly thus the need for a heavier return spring, then the crusise vac pod will not have enough grunt to open the throttle and thus no cruise

I believe Jasonsvrx is still using the std throttle, mate if I am wrong please correct me

The first 'mod' i did, if you can call it that was the K&N panel. I honestly found the car felt better. As for the HF TB, i have no personal dealings with them, but from only reading reviews from more and more members its seems a fairly worthwhile mod. I simply suggested these items as they are 'cheap' in comparison to the $1600 worth of mods Type40 suggested. Im sure they are good but its still $1600, a fair bit of cash when some magnas aren't worth much more.

I may be wrong, but I think what disciple was suggesting is that the K&N allows more dust/dirt into the engine. So if you feel it has de-restricted the factory air filter, this may be through allowing larger particles to get through (this is getting hard to explain what I mean now). Basically IMO if the filter can flow more air easily, its letting more crap into the engine in doing so.

Guys, I firstly want to say thanks for the great info in this thread

The tb thing, it is not flowed, it simply has a lip removed from the body that was put there in order to have the throttle response smooth under slight plate opening. The throttle plate does not change in any way so I fail to see on any openening more than just off closed how more air can flow as it will still have a restriction there.

All you will acheive is more power at a smaller opening compared to the amout of power acheived for a slightly more open plate (damn this is so hard to explain in text here without having the TB to show you all what I actually mean)

The way this is done is also not exactly smooth either, the ones I have seen done by people at home are generally fairly rough as the dremmel used has a very small bit and the nature of the soft allow makes it very hard to be smooth and consistant.

There have been attempts to adapt a larger plate into our throttle bodies and many of these have failed as the plate has not been closing properly thus the need for a heavier return spring, then the crusise vac pod will not have enough grunt to open the throttle and thus no cruise

I believe Jasonsvrx is still using the std throttle, mate if I am wrong please correct me

On the car at the moment and for the last dyno runs yes indeed (im still chasing a idle speed "stepper motor/ISC "issue that i thought may have been from my enlarged TB). Normally my engines have the "bored" out TB i did a few years back BUT as a example Levi/Chaddy74 had a aftermarket 75mm TB on his engine build up which is very very similar to my donkey engine except his has bigger cams and he made around 10kws less at the wheels.

My opinion is that under 200kws@wheels the stock 65mm TB is a ok :)

thank heaps guys for all your help I will be taking on the advice here thats for sure.

personally i think the HighFlow TB avenue is a load of shit, its the same as opening the throttle a tiny bit more

it feels faster because essentially the throttle is slightly more 'open'

back to back dyno's i doubt there would be any difference you can acurately measure.

Couldn't agree more.

Best bang for buck in my opinion is to...

1st, Change the rear muffler as previously said. If you get yourself a good 2nd hand TJ/L/W VRX one it will still be pretty quiet but flow well due to the straight through design. Maybe $100 in good condition or if you prefer something louder go something aftermarket.

2nd, Extractors. I have Pacemakers and am very happy with what they did for the car. It picked up torque and revs out cleaner. Your car being an auto the Pacemakers would be the go.

3rd, Hi flow cat. Get a 200 cpi one. Maybe 2.5 inch or 3. I have a 3 myself but reputable people i know of swear by the 2.5. Look at Magnaflow and maybe Redback as 2 good brands.

4th, A new flex. 2.5 inch at least.

4th, Get the ECU reflashed. I had mine tuned for 98 octane but you can also get this done to suit 95. Just don't expect the gains to be as big. Its all to do with how much money you are comfortable spending on fuel. I haven't the need to worry too much as mine is also running SVI LPG.

So... $100 for a muffler + fitting
$650 for extractors fitted
$200 for cat delivered +
$150 for new flex and cat fitted
$500 for the ECU reflash

So a total of $1600 will get you a punchy Magna without breaking into the engine.

As others have said don't touch the intake. The standard one is perfectly fine and can support very reasonable power. If you spend your money wisely you will get excellent gains and these engines respond well when mods are made in the right areas.

Spot on Dave.
This is exactly what to do in order to get the most out of a Magna for your money. And these are big/noticable gain options, backed by a few people that have now done them, not slight minimal waste of money gains.
I too can confirm these.
Also, the people who have done these mods and had big success with gains have a stock air filter, stock air intake and a stock throttle body.

I may be wrong, but I think what disciple was suggesting is that the K&N allows more dust/dirt into the engine. So if you feel it has de-restricted the factory air filter, this may be through allowing larger particles to get through (this is getting hard to explain what I mean now). Basically IMO if the filter can flow more air easily, its letting more crap into the engine in doing so.

not neccesarily true hence why even some of the crappiest pod filters flow more than k&n panel filter upgrades for some cars.

even if the pod had crappy flowing material it may have more surface area as a result of the depth of the fins thus resulting in more flow through a technically larger surface area.

this can be easily proven. a k&n pod filter versus 1 layer of your wifes teaer resistant stockings over the intake tract.... guess which wins

Save the $90 for the K&N panel filter too. They do absolutely nothing except for let more dust and shit into your engine.

I took my TB off last weekend for the first time in 30,000km and it was completely spotless since EZboy put it on. That was with a K&N panel filter so clearly its not letting that much shit in?

And to those saying the EZ boy TB is a waste, try it before you knock it. It made an instant difference to throttle response. I couldnt give a flying **** if it makes no difference to power/torque figures it just makes the thing much more driveable.

To the OP, get yourself the EZ boy TB if you can.

And to those saying the EZ boy TB is a waste, try it before you knock it. It made an instant difference to throttle response. I couldnt give a flying **** if it makes no difference to power/torque figures it just makes the thing much more driveable.

To the OP, get yourself the EZ boy TB if you can.

tried it.. i didnt like it and swapped it for free with a stock throttle body....

i think the main reason ppl are anti (including me) is the fact that you can achieve the same result by pushing a tad harder on the throttle...

I took my TB off last weekend for the first time in 30,000km and it was completely spotless since EZboy put it on. That was with a K&N panel filter so clearly its not letting that much shit in?

And to those saying the EZ boy TB is a waste, try it before you knock it. It made an instant difference to throttle response. I couldnt give a flying **** if it makes no difference to power/torque figures it just makes the thing much more driveable.

To the OP, get yourself the EZ boy TB if you can.

You fail totally in understanding the dynamics of the way the TB works, the way an airfilter works or where the gunk inside a TB actually comes from so I will, yet again try and explain

The gunk is not dirt and dust, it is oil resedue left behind from the oil and blow by vapours that get sent there by the breather pipe attached to your inlet pipe. This is usually a black oily residue.

The K&N have 2 issues, they do not filter as well as a standard good quality paper filter to begin with and secondly when they have been on for more than a couple of days you will find that the dirt etc has been sticking to it and actually starting to block it up. A good paper filter will tend to drop this dust into the inlet tract (before the filter) and will also remian better flowing.

As for the TB, in simple terms, why not just put your foot down a few more mm and save that $100 bucks for something else. After all after the first few degrees of throttle opening, a modded TB with standard plate and a standard TB will have the exact same flow. As Gremlin said, a few more degrees (ie putting your foot down a few more mm) will give you the exact same result. Either WOT or Half throttle will have the exact same flow rate as one of these modded TB

As for drivability, there is no way that a modded TB can make a car more drivable, the drivability is how smoot the car drives, the cupped (not sure how to really describe it) is there to make slight throttle plate angles more even and not make the car "launch" as fast, ideal in heavy traffic conditions etc which is exactly why it is there in the first place

hey guys, i notice a few posts here mention that the VRX has a few things over the base models. can anyone tell me what they are exactly? i've read different exhaust. is there anything else different? i have a TJ

performance wise, its only the exhaust. not 100% but it could be only the rear muffler...

otherwise its all the things like body kit, better interior etc... just the usual stuff from a better spec model.

hey guys, i notice a few posts here mention that the VRX has a few things over the base models. can anyone tell me what they are exactly? i've read different exhaust. is there anything else different? i have a TJ
Mechanically the Sports and the VR-X are the same. Compared to the Series 1 models, the Sports/VR-X had slightly different cams and tune (I think), as well as the rear muffler - it's 150kw v 163kw. However, the Series 2 models gained the VR-X engine minus the muffler, which bumped them up to 155kw. Sports/VR-X also came with the 5 speed tiptronic auto. Apart from slightly lower/stiffer suspension and a rear sway bar, all other changes were cosmetic (body kit, paras, red dials, etc).

cool, thanks guys. i was aware of the cosmetic stuff, just wanted to check what else before i start doing some things.

DONT TOUCH YOUR TB OR INTAKE, is not worth it as Jasonsvrx is hitting up something like 200kw on stock items. Lost peak power with the K&N panel in. Jason has a 71mm tb - straight thru bored factory item. Nice if you can get a TB with enough meat in it to do it AND the machining skills to fit a butterfly to it.

Steve Knight is in Adelaide, he will do remote flashes if you send him an ECU, but the results will not be as good as driving there and having it done in realtime on the dyno.

How do I get hold of Steve?? I'm in Adeladie and keen for him to do some work for me. Can someone PM me his details if they have them?????

How do I get hold of Steve?? I'm in Adeladie and keen for him to do some work for me. Can someone PM me his details if they have them?????

done.

Lost peak power with the K&N panel in. Jason has a 71mm tb - straight thru bored factory item. Nice if you can get a TB with enough meat in it to do it AND the machining skills to fit a butterfly to it.

Not on the car at the moment (or at the last dyno runs) Ian, still chasing that ISC issue but yes IF you can get a good "thick" TB then you can offset machine it out and fit a larger throttle blade..... would i do it again? No way too damn fiddly and time consuming on the VMC.

done.
Can I have the same please - contact details for Steve.

Mechanically the Sports and the VR-X are the same. Compared to the Series 1 models, the Sports/VR-X had slightly different cams and tune (I think), as well as the rear muffler - it's 150kw v 163kw. However, the Series 2 models gained the VR-X engine minus the muffler, which bumped them up to 155kw. Sports/VR-X also came with the 5 speed tiptronic auto. Apart from slightly lower/stiffer suspension and a rear sway bar, all other changes were cosmetic (body kit, paras, red dials, etc).

All 3rd gens of the same year have had exactly the same cams regardless of model (ie. Sports/VRX/Verada/Executive etc). The TJ series 1 Sports/VRX had a different tune and exhaust to the other models and thats where the 13kw came from. From TJ series 2 they gave all magnas and veradas the same tune and from then on the exhaust was the only difference to the sports/vrx. TH used a lazier cam profile to TJ.

TH used a lazier cam profile to TJ.

My understanding is the cams changed from TJ2 to the number "6" grind as opposed to the "4" grind. "4" being all 3.5's through to the end of TJ1 bar the Sport/VRX in TJ1 which did have the "6" cams...

The upgraded rear muff lets the torque hold on a touch longer hence the higher final kw. kw is just dyno calc of torque x rpm. So yes, more torque or more rpm will = more dyno sheet kws.

what did you upgrade the rear muffler to?

what did you upgrade the rear muffler to? As in the oem straight-thru rear muff as per ralliart, vrx, selected sports models. Plenty of useful aftermarket rear muff combos are effective thou.

I'm thinking of doing a reflash myself, how do i get a hold of this Steve Knight? Can someone PM me his details?

I'm thinking of doing a reflash myself, how do i get a hold of this Steve Knight? Can someone PM me his details?

Call him on 0419 827850

Steve Knight Racetech

My understanding is the cams changed from TJ2 to the number "6" grind as opposed to the "4" grind. "4" being all 3.5's through to the end of TJ1 bar the Sport/VRX in TJ1 which did have the "6" cams...

Well there seems to be a few different opinions and ideas floating around about this matter. I was fairly certain that the cam change was after TH and it all came down to tune after that. We need someone to confirm it.

Well there seems to be a few different opinions and ideas floating around about this matter. I was fairly certain that the cam change was after TH and it all came down to tune after that. We need someone to confirm it.

its simple really, I have a TJ1 and my owners manual quotes max power is 150Kw

its simple really, I have a TJ1 and my owners manual quotes max power is 150Kw

Its not simple, incase you didnt see what we were discussing. Wether the cam upgrade was in the tj1, which i am sure it was from what i have read in a few articles.

Its not simple, incase you didnt see what we were discussing. Wether the cam upgrade was in the tj1, which i am sure it was from what i have read in a few articles.

I have a TJ1. It has 150Kw, so presume it DOESNT have the cam upgrade.

Doesn't mean any tuning was done. We do know that with TH in 2000, MMAL and the other big 4 were emissions paranoid. Then 3 of them in their series 2 revisions upped the outputs by a ponie or two. Ralliart was also intro'd into the lineup so some minor tuning tweaks (remember 91ron) *may* have been passed onto the garden variety magnas. Purely speculation.

I have a TJ1. It has 150Kw, so presume it DOESNT have the cam upgrade.

How do you know the 147kw->150kw increase was from a tune or cam upgrade. Does it tell you that in your precious manual. I presume it DOESNT. Because thats what I am asking having read (from autoweb or somewhere similar in an article about the TJ magna) that the 147kw to 150kw was due to a change in cams (no tune) and the 150kw to 155kw was from a tune that was used on the sports variants.

EDIT: Chick chick boom!!!!! Found it http://www.goauto.com.au/mellor/mellor.nsf/RT/D0914FEDAE533AE9CA2569EB00158B56_Our+Opinion?OpenD ocument

How do you know the 147kw->150kw increase was from a tune or cam upgrade. Does it tell you that in your precious manual. I presume it DOESNT. Because thats what I am asking having read (from autoweb or somewhere similar in an article about the TJ magna) that the 147kw to 150kw was due to a change in cams (no tune) and the 150kw to 155kw was from a tune that was used on the sports variants,

TH to TJ1 was indeed a cam change.

TH to TJ1 was indeed a cam change.

I stand corrected!