Hi all,

I went through 10 pages of audio install with no definitive answers.

I have read with interest all the boot installs. I basically just want to screw my amp into an MDF board and then screw it into the rear seat. Obviously I would not use screws that are long enough to satb my rear seat passengers?

Has anyone done this? The board will be housing 2 amps, maybe a distribution block and maybe a capacitor.

What are the cons of doing this?

tahnks

Note to self: posting while tired = stupid answers.

First-up your cons are heat, and space. Have you considered mounting on the floor under the seat instead? It's a much more common location.

Its a Boot.....

Has about 4cuft of space and air.....no issues regarding space and heat

hi,

wouldnt heat be the same as when the false floor is made and the amps installed in there? secondly with the amps on the rear seat's back, wouldnt that actually save space? dont like under the passenger seat for a multitude of reasons.

Its a Boot.....

:facejump:

Nevermind, I'm tired I stupidly read front seat :| Rear seat is fine, thats where mine is.

Hi all,

I went through 10 pages of audio install with no definitive answers.

I have read with interest all the boot installs. I basically just want to screw my amp into an MDF board and then screw it into the rear seat. Obviously I would not use screws that are long enough to satb my rear seat passengers?

Has anyone done this? The board will be housing 2 amps, maybe a distribution block and maybe a capacitor.

What are the cons of doing this?

tahnks

I assume you mean you want to mount this to the metal board on the boot side?

If so:

A) use nuts and bolts (nylon nuts preferably) Dont need to be 1/2" either. For those wondering why I keep harping on about using bolts, screws keep something firmly secured by thier thread - when you have sheet metal, screwing into this leaves you with the screw supporting the weight via around 2 threads, instead of 10....

B) Forgot a capacitor.

C) I'd split this up into two halves, as there is the ski port. One side you can have your distribution block and fuses, and the opposit side your amp.

D) Rip out the backseat, check for factor holes, im sure there's a fair few.

E) there's two ways of doing this:

1) you find these holes, make up a small frame using pine and attach via bolts. Then you secure your MDF board to this with screws/or alternatively using cabinet door catch things (look im tired, will post up a pick soon). The benefit of doing a quick frame is - you can move this into the boot by say 10cm at the bottom and 2cm at the top (thats roughly the slope of the backseat incase anyone is wondering).

This gives you room to run cables without them lying on your floor, and will have the rack sitting vertical.

2) you make up your MDF board, put the 4 bolts per board onto it, and then drill new holes. This I dont recommend, yes I do it - but its not technically insurance friendly from memory.

You guys are fast....Nice post ERS.......

............
Can I add

You could drill through the seat, and screw into the MDF............, or use those round headed bolt on the seat side, and counter sink with a nut and washer. hidden by a lurverly layer of carpet over the MDF....
A bit more effort for you tho....but show it some lurv... :drool:

I assume you mean you want to mount this to the metal board on the boot side?

If so:

A) use nuts and bolts (nylon nuts preferably) Dont need to be 1/2" either. For those wondering why I keep harping on about using bolts, screws keep something firmly secured by thier thread - when you have sheet metal, screwing into this leaves you with the screw supporting the weight via around 2 threads, instead of 10....

B) Forgot a capacitor.

C) I'd split this up into two halves, as there is the ski port. One side you can have your distribution block and fuses, and the opposit side your amp.

D) Rip out the backseat, check for factor holes, im sure there's a fair few.

E) there's two ways of doing this:

1) you find these holes, make up a small frame using pine and attach via bolts. Then you secure your MDF board to this with screws/or alternatively using cabinet door catch things (look im tired, will post up a pick soon). The benefit of doing a quick frame is - you can move this into the boot by say 10cm at the bottom and 2cm at the top (thats roughly the slope of the backseat incase anyone is wondering).


Hi Guys,

Thanks for all the quick replies. I really appreciate it.

Ers- I thought a capacitor would be necessary and I think it would look kinda cool. Why would it not be needed?
I would also love some pics. Have not removed the rear seat before so I really do not know what it looks like under the carpet. :)

I know just drilling into the seat would be the best but if it is not so insurance friendly then i would have to find an alternate route.

Thanks

Capacitors are garbage, they are bling, nothing more nothing less.

Incorrectly installed they can cause a fire. Google capacitors and from memory 'ESR' - there's a good post on another forum with some 14 pages of technical explanations/tests done explaining why they dont do half of what they claim to.

If you want to spend money on power - buy yourself a good battery (I like Optima Yellow tops, blue tops, red tops....)

It takes 5 minutes to remove the rear seat (first, find the two tabs for the lower seat, pull this and remove that section. Next you will find two 10mm (from memory) bolts, one on each side. Undo these.

Next you lift the seat up towards the rear window, may take some effort if not done before. Careful when putting the bolts back in, I snapped one - thats a royal PITA to fix.

How does the rear seat back lift up from the ski port? Just slides right out like any other rear seat or is there a knack to it?

I'm thinking of making a 16mm MDF board to fit behind the rear seat in my TJ, covering the ski port (have 3 baby seats in the back, won't be using the ski port anything soon!!) and screwing into that from the cabin side, using existing holes in the rear bracing, to avoid drilling excess holes.

Ski port does not lift out with the backseat. There's two parts to the ski port trim, one is mounted onto the backseat. Second is clipped in from the boot side.

You can lift out the backseat without touching the ski port.

Ski port does not lift out with the backseat. There's two parts to the ski port trim, one is mounted onto the backseat. Second is clipped in from the boot side.

You can lift out the backseat without touching the ski port.

ahh... okay. i read somewhere here that the christmas tree clips have to be removed from ski port during seat removal. will definitely give it a go this weekend.

Hrm.....thats kinda news to me as I just removed my seat earlier today.

The trim on the boot side has those clips, mine are off at the moment due to other issues - look its possible, im almost 100% certain you dont have to, but as mine are already off (as is that boot trim) im going to say its maybe possible.

Hrm.....thats kinda news to me as I just removed my seat earlier today.

The trim on the boot side has those clips, mine are off at the moment due to other issues - look its possible, im almost 100% certain you dont have to, but as mine are already off (as is that boot trim) im going to say its maybe possible.

no worries. its all of 2 mins anyway to get them out of the way of need be. Cant wait to have a look at your pics tomorrow of the rack. sounds like a very interesting idea

hahaha thats getting re-done next year.

Will finish it off, but had another idea.

Will probably upgrade my sub at the same time.....4th install is already in the planning stages LOL

i mounted my amp in the boot on to the rear seat works fine and saves space looks pretty mean when you open the boot and i have had no problems with heat at all