I bought some lovely (I hope: haven't heard them in the car yet) JL splits from JB HiFi at their 30% off sale, and in the instructions it says to never install the crossovers in the doors, as they can get wet. In this thread it says people do put the x-overs in their doors. The question is:

have people had problems with water getting in, and if so, what can be done to stop this?

PS: I took one look at that long, snaking fat rubber conduit that carries cables into the doors and decided not to even think about putting them under the dash.

Well as long as you put it between the inner skin and the door card, I don't see how it could get wet to be honest, the door has a factory plastic skin there to seal the inside of the door card from water and if you dynamat it its sealed from where the window travels in the same way, and that's the only place water could really leak into.

That's also where mine are and they haven't got a drop of water on them yet!

also long as you keep that white plastic sheet on the doors (keeps the moisture out) and install it on the trim side of the door then you should be fine as water shouldnt come into this area
but if your really worried about it just install it under the dash and run some wire to the speaker and tweeter

OK! good enough for me. Thank you Rhys.

Peter

also long as you keep that white plastic sheet on the doors (keeps the moisture out) and install it on the trim side of the door then you should be fine as water shouldnt come into this area
but if your really worried about it just install it under the dash and run some wire to the speaker and tweeter

Heh mine's removed.

That was unavoidable though. Doors are sealed (all service holes) and then dynamat over the covers.....

Heh mine's removed.

That was unavoidable though. Doors are sealed (all service holes) and then dynamat over the covers.....

what did you seal the holes with before the dynmat?

You can use whatever really so long as it's not a porous material. I used a thin sheet of painted mdf. Some people use aluminium.

3mm MDF.

a) its flexible

b).....well no, thats pretty much it.

Painted on one side (on the inner door side). Dynamat on the side that faces the trim panel.

Secured with cable ties (few extra holes were drilled.......shhhh). Then covered again in Dynamat to ensure a good seal. Some area's (such as where the door handle rods go through) require you to leave a substantial gap in order for them to work.

Brilliant part about dynamat is you can then dynamat over this area to cover the hole, leaving only a small gap. Ok, so opening the handle is a bit tighter at first, but hey.

After that mine was also covered in 3mm of Dynamat Dynaliner. The door handle rods sit on this, so that lets them work a bit easier.

Heavy doors much Ers? lol

Umm a bit.

In total there's 5 layers of Dynamat Xtreme on the outter skin, 2 layers on inner skin, 1 layer on the plastic trim. Or around 1.6 bulk packs between two doors.

Umm a bit.

In total there's 5 layers of Dynamat Xtreme on the outter skin, 2 layers on inner skin, 1 layer on the plastic trim. Or around 1.6 bulk packs between two doors.

damn...you really dont like rattles.... do you?

damn...you really dont like rattles.... do you?
More to the point, no leaks :P

I'll have to use the rest of my bulk back on the doors and some paint on deadener and more MDF and various other things once I get my new speakers too or rattles 'r' us it will be.

I dare say the OP's question has been answered now though. Although, a thought I just had, is if you are worried about water getting in, line up where the open space is between the inner skin and door card, and mount it to the door card. Water will never stream in, it'll only trickle down the inner/outer skin if it can possibly get in at all, so that'll keep it out of harms way. Will make it a royal pain in the rear end though to take the door cards on and off.

More to the point, no leaks :P

ok.... still trying to figure out the best way to dynamat the door and keep water out at the same time :)

ok.... still trying to figure out the best way to dynamat the door and keep water out at the same time :)
Well, you really need to remove the factory plastic skin. Then when you apply the dynamat you apply it to the same area the factory skin was, so it seals the door in the same way, except it sticks to the whole inner skin, not just the edges like the factory skin.

Technically speaking, unless you need to replace your window seals, there shouldn't be a drop of water making its way in anyway, but even if it does, the dynamat won't care, its not affected by water so to speak.

damn...you really dont like rattles.... do you?

Not only rattles, more so aimed for an mid range SQ setup......doors are solid.

Developed couple of rattles aswell, so get to track that down - as the mids put out a lot of energy, new things come loose...ahwell :kb:

Ers, I might come round to your place for a Dynamat lesson :)

Ers, I might come round to your place for a Dynamat lesson :)

me too. gimme me about 3 days to drive there.... :roflwtf:

Ers, I might come round to your place for a Dynamat lesson :)

haha no problems, probably easier if I come to you - give me a hollar when you're ready mate :)

I experimented with some 5MM foam sheets covering the whole inner door with just a hole for the lock and the handle rod.

It looks a bit povo, but once the door card is on you can't see anything... poor mans dynamat

http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/7335/03072009126.jpg

Does the same job mate :)

you can also spray them with a hi temp wax. it seals them from moisture.

That povvo blue foam - is that from Clark Rubber or somewhere similar......

sound-deadening noob here - with 2 packs of ERs dynamat on my hands.......

wanting to kill road noise as much as anything, and wanting to make the Dynamat go as far as possible - any ideas folks??

I dont get the whole sound deadening thing

I like the POVVO way thats the way I roll on the cheap

Well, I have a Verada which is pretty good - but my TJ (II) Sports and dadś Exec are terrible over unpaved roads, really really noisy. makes conversation difficult, noisy - even rural co**** chip tar roads are a pain. (big chips of stone in the pavement - swear filter got me again).

Will try to read some web stuff about how to attack it - Ers gave me a brill PM about it, too. Thing is, I want to kill road noise, not focus so much on SQ - which in older cars on rough roads I don believe SQ is achievable anyway.

Easy to fix the road noise : Crank up the volume... Road noise killed....

That povvo blue foam - is that from Clark Rubber or somewhere similar......

sound-deadening noob here - with 2 packs of ERs dynamat on my hands.......

wanting to kill road noise as much as anything, and wanting to make the Dynamat go as far as possible - any ideas folks??

As I said in the pm, road noise in Magna's comes in a few main area's:

Rear wheel arches
Floor
Doors
Firewall.
Front wheel arches.

The way I would attack it is:
Cover the rear wheel arches first (they are rather large when you pull the trim back).
Then work on the front floor/firewall
Then cover the front doors outter skin with 1 layer.

For the front wheel arches, you can get paint on sound deadener, pressure clean the wheel arches - and do a few coats over the weekend.

Im still yet to trial various rubber on the floor as a sound barrier, I do mean to get around to it - just been flat out in recent weeks mate!

The floor would probably make the biggest different. I notice a fair difference in road noise between my car and equiv magnas, only difference is all the extra sound deadening in the floor, firewall and rear seat. Er's list covers it pretty good though I reckon, I dare say you'll need more than 2 bulk kits if you want to kill the road noise as much as possible.

I've been in a car where pretty much the whole thing is deadened, 3 times over, and its quiet as anything, but for the thousands it costs to do, dunno if its justifable lol

You'd be supprised how much comes through rear wheel arches aswell.

That and the bottom half of the doors....

I think with 1 bulk pack you can reduce a fair bit of noise in a car, after that either get another pack, or alternatively I will try and find other ways of reducing road noise (rubber matting, regular foam, etc...)

When I finally finish testing (just need a SPL meter) I'll post up the results, though somewhat moot in my case as I have 4.5bulk packs in the car with another 1-2 still to come.