View Full Version : TR 2.6 problem
jason098
15-08-2009, 01:43 PM
ive got a tr 2.6 efi which sometimes stalls but before it does i hear the fuel relay clicking away, i have changed the relay and this didnt fix the problem so i hard wired the fuel pump to ignition power which stoped the car from stalling but the relay still sometimes clicks away and the car almost stalls.
im almost out of ideas someone help?
MadMax
15-08-2009, 04:31 PM
Low voltage will do that.
jason098
15-08-2009, 04:38 PM
the alternator is charging at almost 14v and the battery is holding about 12.3v
MadMax
15-08-2009, 08:16 PM
Run the engine and wiggle wires in the engine bay and at the relay - see if you can induce the fault. Would give you a good place to start.
Wriggle the ignition key with engine on, might be a poor connection in the switch. Pull the column shroud off - bottom bit -and wiggle away.
You haven't got an original Mitsu immobiliser on your car have you? The early TS had a problem like this caused by the immobiliser.
jason098
15-08-2009, 08:18 PM
nope no immobiliser
MadMax
15-08-2009, 08:26 PM
There is a connection on the firewall next to the ignition cut connection that allows you to power the fuel pump directly. Try that.
There must be a bad connection somewhere, or perhaps your fuel pump is on the way out? If powering the pump directly still produces the cutout, I'd replace the pump. A fuel pressure test might be in order first though. Time to visit a dealer!
jason098
15-08-2009, 08:54 PM
when i say i have hard wired the fuel pump i ran a wire from the ignition switch into the engine bay to the fuel pump connector at the firewall, have tested the distributor plug, cleaned all the plugs with contact cleaner and also given the wiggle test. i have also tried clamping the fuel return line, before changing the relay which made no difference.
jason098
15-08-2009, 08:56 PM
im a diesel mechanic by trade and really dont want to pay someone to fix this problem
MadMax
15-08-2009, 10:03 PM
when i say i have hard wired the fuel pump i ran a wire from the ignition switch into the engine bay to the fuel pump connector at the firewall, have tested the distributor plug, cleaned all the plugs with contact cleaner and also given the wiggle test. i have also tried clamping the fuel return line, before changing the relay which made no difference.
This way you still have the ignition switch in the circuit. With the connector on the firewall connected to the battery you bypass the switch. Your problem may well be a badly worn ignition switch. Pull it out and have a look. They can be opened but don't lose the springs. lol Look for heat damage and sunk copper tracks. A replacement from a wreckers may be in order.
If you don't want to open it, disconnect it from the key barrel but leave it plugged in and use a large screwdriver to operate it. With the engine running move the wires around and see if you can duplicate the cutout problem. Any looseness in the wires where they connect to the switch indicates an internal problem.
I assume you have checked - pulled out and swapped around - fuses and fusible links in the car? Electrical connection on the fuel pump itself?
jason098
16-08-2009, 07:12 AM
i did have it straight from the battery at first until i found that it prevented it from stalling but still tried to stall and clicked away, i have checked and cleaned the connector at the fuel pump, checked all fuses but havnt played with the fusible links yet.
MadMax
16-08-2009, 09:50 AM
turn your lights on or put a voltmeter across the battery and watch what happens when the engine tries to stall. sounds like you are getting a sudden massive voltage drop somewhere - either a short somewhere or a internal problem in the alternator or battery. do you have another battery to try?
after its tried its stalling trick, feel the alternator. if it is shorting internally it will be very hot.
Sigmaproject
16-08-2009, 04:35 PM
If you can hear the relay cutting in and out it has to be something to do with the circuit that switches the relay.
jason098
16-08-2009, 04:40 PM
i think it would be very bad luck for the new relay to be faulty, after all my stuffing around it has come good and i dont know why lol, i cant get it to play up again
jason098
16-08-2009, 04:53 PM
is it the ecu that switches the relay?, if the ecu is fine could the inputs from other components cause this problem
MadMax
16-08-2009, 08:10 PM
i think it would be very bad luck for the new relay to be faulty, after all my stuffing around it has come good and i dont know why lol, i cant get it to play up again
:facejump: :beer: :gfight: lets hope the gremlins don't return.
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