hey guys i was just wondering if it possible to use a heavy duty switch to isolate the positive on the battery, is it safe take the terminal off the lead extend the lead to the switch then run a lead from the switch to a new terminal?

There are screw type switches you can pickup from supercheap that will let you isolate the positive terminal....... not sure if I would trust them to give you a good connection though.

I had one a while ago on an old car and ended up taking it off after a few problems

haha i work at supercheap, but i was thinking of something more heavy duty maybe something for truck purposes. was planning on putting it in the ashtray.

What are you trying to achieve? A kill switch?

On Drag cars we put on Battery Isolator switches, usually Moroso 4 pole. Retail for $230.....

i park my car outside tafe daily so i dont want it getting stolen. so yer, just something that i know wont start the car unless its in the on position.

Get ready to lose your radio presets and EQ settings everyday lol

Oh and your ECU will reset too

Why don't you tap into the ignition circuit or something, so even if someone breaks in, the starter motor will turn but the car wont fire over

thats a good idea :) what about a wire coming from my ignition barrel? would that work to?

Yeah but that would be the first place a theif would look for a killswitch. You might be better to trace wires and actually splice in somewhere in the engine bay, then wrap looms and everything back up like it came from factory so it looks completely stock.

If someone gets in your car, gets it to start turning over but not kick, they will probably give up

There's several wiring options for kill switches.

Personally toggle switches which are usually sold in kill switch kits are rather crap - too easy to find, and you can forget to flick it to 'off'.

I'd be going with a momentary style kill switch on either a fuel pump relay or on ignition circuit.

I had a kill switch in my first car, cut power to the fuel pump to stop the car starting. Cost me $60 installed if I recall correctly.

yeah id say a fuel pump one. you could almost put it to a switch you dont use instead of having a new one.

Why not wire in your cig lighter as part of the fuel pump circuit. No cig lighter, car won't start.

I had a kill switch in my first car, cut power to the fuel pump to stop the car starting. Cost me $60 installed if I recall correctly.

Yep! Whatever else you do - do this. Whether you get it done or do it yourself, put some thought into the location & type of switches you use.

It is effective because it's not 'standard', not 'branded'. Even if the thief has worked as an alarm installer, there's nothing to recognise - every one is different.

I've had expensive 'top of the range' alarm immobilisers beaten by thieves who 'know the brand' & therefore can patch the wires at the control unit ( a Rhino RA in 2002 - stolen from my driveway). With a kill switch they can only guess.

My son went a bit further with his 'cause he was parking his car outside uni all day. He went to a specialist electronics supplier & bought 4 'identical looking' push/pull switches - 2 push for on & 2 pull for on. He cut both fuel pump wires in 2 places.

The result is effective, on the dozen or so occasions I've driven the b'**! thing, I've got the sequence wrong 5 times. 16 permutations is a pain.

His stereo 's been stolen twice & another time he left a sports bag in view - door lock was popped & bag was gone when he got back. BUT even the one thief who fancied himself an auto elec. was defeated by the mother of all kill switches.

One of his mates used 2 screw in fuses from an old stove instead of switches. He's got a couple of spare fuses stashed in the boot in case he loses the ones he takes with him.

Double switching is worthwhile 'cause thieves DO know that if you have a kill switch you will usually hide it somewhere that you can reach from the drivers seat. The second switch will usually not be looked for.

Good luck with it

Cheers
John