I am trying to get some indication on rotor wear of the standard rotors. I am about to get new pads at around 70k+ and want to know from those who have had their first pad change and have machined the rotors, what did they mic up to or were they a throw away? I guess if you can add what you got out of your pads and what sort of driving too that would be helpful eg mostly city hoon factor 10 etc lol cheers!!

I always throw rotors away, they behave differently when machined.

If you shop around you can find them for 90 bucks....(aftermarket rotors)

I always throw rotors away, they behave differently when machined.

If you shop around you can find them for 90 bucks....(aftermarket rotors)
I know the standard ones on large australian cars have a propensity to warp. The thinner they are the worse the problem will be. How do you mean "they behave differently"? If done correctly there shouldn't be a problem as long as there is enough meat on them. I used to work in an automotive engineering workshop and as a matter of course we used to do flywheels and rotors. I know a lot of things have changed in technology since then (early 90's) but machining shouldn't have changed that much (or did it! lol)

never had a problem with machined rotors. In fact mine have done another 20,000km's since machined and they are fantastic with fresh pads

Never had a problem with machined discs on any car I've owned.

My 380 just had the discs machined at 90K but that wasn't due warpage so much as helping bed the new pads. That's the first time they've been machined.

Machined discs always fare better to warping apparently.

The brakes on my ES are the pits. They were ok at first, but after some HEAVY braking they turned to crap. Ive never experienced such a deterioration in brake performance before.

When was the last time you checked your brake fluid? It is possible you've boiled the fluid.

The brakes on my ES are the pits. They were ok at first, but after some HEAVY braking they turned to crap. Ive never experienced such a deterioration in brake performance before.
You also may have glazed your pads. I would suggest that you check both of those things. Upgrade your pads with a machine of the rotors next time around too. How many K's have you done on yours?

The brakes on my ES are the pits. They were ok at first, but after some HEAVY braking they turned to crap. Ive never experienced such a deterioration in brake performance before.

What pads are fitted and were they properly bedded in? The 380 has fairly decent brakes. They will fade if worked hard continuously on very tight twisty roads at high speeds for 15-20 min.

If pads/rotors are hammered right from the start and not bedded in they can glaze and/or necessary elements in the pad can be boiled out and the pads are ruined.

Conversely some pads only work properly after they have been bedded in and then worked very hard until they fade; after one fade cycle the pads will then work well. TRW/Lucas pads are like that, and so are many competition pads. They have to get hot enough to boil off and lay down a coating onto the rotor, called rotor tar. Without rotor tar the rotor wears very fast and braking is average because the pads need to "glue" to the coating on the rotor to develop proper friction levels.

Cheers,
Alan

What pads are fitted and were they properly bedded in? The 380 has fairly decent brakes. They will fade if worked hard continuously on very tight twisty roads at high speeds for 15-20 min.

If pads/rotors are hammered right from the start and not bedded in they can glaze and/or necessary elements in the pad can be boiled out and the pads are ruined.

Conversely some pads only work properly after they have been bedded in and then worked very hard until they fade; after one fade cycle the pads will then work well. TRW/Lucas pads are like that, and so are many competition pads. They have to get hot enough to boil off and lay down a coating onto the rotor, called rotor tar. Without rotor tar the rotor wears very fast and braking is average because the pads need to "glue" to the coating on the rotor to develop proper friction levels.

Cheers,
Alan

I've never heard of Rotor tar before, cool concept though! Thanks Alan. The brakes on the VRX squeal like stuck pigs when cold but are ok when there worked and get some heat.Won't be using those factory pads when the brakes get done soon though,want my brakes quiet all the time!