Another find, rear sway bar available too!

Loc Description Part No. Diam Type Partnote 1 Partnote 2 Partnote 3 *Price
Mitsubishi 380 PS 05-On
Mitsubishi 380 PS 05-On
R Swaybar-h/duty Blade adjustable SMR703A 26mm Replacement type $250

http://www.selbys.com.au/search_cc.php

Mmm adjustable!!!

Mmm adjustable!!!

I'm gonna ring these guys today & get some more info & see if you get new bushes etc & also enquire about a front bar. I think I will get one of these babies when I get my car going again.

Anyone else intersted? Might be able to get a quantity buy?

I'm gonna ring these guys today & get some more info & see if you get new bushes etc & also enquire about a front bar. I think I will get one of these babies when I get my car going again.

Anyone else intersted? Might be able to get a quantity buy?

i would be interested providing its adjustable.

i would be interested providing its adjustable.

Yep they are adjustable.

I gave them a call & you can buy them online for $250 + GST + freight or Repco, Pedders or Fulcrum are agents for them. Probably better way to go as then you can buy the urathane bushes at the same time & probably don't pay the frieght.

I asked about a front bar & they said if I supplied a stock one they would reproduce a bigger bar for me.

I think the stock VRX bar is 21mm from memory so being 26mm will be quite a bit firmer. The Galant Works bar from the US is only 24mm.

Check prices with Shawn at Phillcom Rally, you never know!.....RING OR E-MAIL for a quicker response.

Check prices with Shawn at Phillcom Rally, you never know!.....RING OR E-MAIL for a quicker response.

I will, thanks mate. I just rang Fulcrum & they have no listing & are ringing back. Must be new out.

I got a Selby adjustable one from him for my AWD a couple of weeks ago....makes a noticeable difference.

Hmmmm...

This could be quite good for adjusting the handling if the decision is made to lower the car. A really stiff rear sway bar should bias the car back to oversteer. Where's Chisholm when u need him?

Hmmmm...

This could be quite good for adjusting the handling if the decision is made to lower the car. A really stiff rear sway bar should bias the car back to oversteer. Where's Chisholm when u need him?

I've just changed to the hard setting after trying soft and med. ....... still have understeer but it's better and the car stays flatter.....in the wet on med. it seemed neutral, so i'll see what it's like on hard in the wet soon.

I've just changed to the hard setting after trying soft and med. ....... still have understeer but it's better and the car stays flatter.....in the wet on med. it seemed neutral, so i'll see what it's like on hard in the wet soon.
Yeeehaaaa oversteer here we come lol

I asked about a front bar & they said if I supplied a stock one they would reproduce a bigger bar for me.


Why do you want to change the front bar? The car will understeer more.

Yep they are adjustable.

I gave them a call & you can buy them online for $250 + GST + freight or Repco, Pedders or Fulcrum are agents for them. Probably better way to go as then you can buy the urathane bushes at the same time & probably don't pay the frieght.

I asked about a front bar & they said if I supplied a stock one they would reproduce a bigger bar for me.

I think the stock VRX bar is 21mm from memory so being 26mm will be quite a bit firmer. The Galant Works bar from the US is only 24mm.

cool. off to repco next week.

Why do you want to change the front bar? The car will understeer more.

The rear bar is quite an increase in stiffness so the front could be upgraded too to help the car corner flat.

The 380 handles quite well already & I think oversteer would be quite easy to dial in with that size bar plus the adjustability, so a little more on the front wouldn't hurt.

I deal with whiteline and selby's all the time, they are one of my suppliers for swaybars and handling components..
i did check with whiteline a while ago , and they only do camber bolts for the 380 , nothing else..
i didn't even check with selby's. normally they only do the odd ball stuff that whiteline don't do anymore, older and rarer cars..

i'll get some info on monday and get back to you all..


the increase in the rear bar on a front wheel drive will reduce the understeer...the adjustability is good for fine tuning the car to your specific driving style....some people prefer more oversteer than others, hence the adjustability is good...
increasing the front bar will add understeer...
i'd like to have a play with the rear swaybar first, before wasting money on changing the front one..most FWD setups with an upgraded/adjustable rear swaybar with the stock front bar has given excellent results.

OH my

you mean I can have like my 'rolla' with Bilstien adjustables

OH yeah

I like I like alot !

In severerly undersprung FWDs (pretty much all factory FWDs), a significantly stiffer rear 'swaybar' is ALWAYS a good thing. No it won't give chronic understeering barge into sports car dynamics, but bang-for-buck it's certainly a great thing.

If you want genuine turn-in oversteer you need to look at running rear springrates in the ballpark of 3x factory (alot of people would find the ride comfort intolerable on inner-city streets). However, a nice stiff rear swaybar will certainly take the edge off the tendency to wallow and push in a car that's softly sprung. Without ruining the cushiness of the ride.


Why do you want to change the front bar? The car will understeer more.

wrong.

Yes, in a car that's sufficiently sprung (i.e a race car) stiffer front swaybar = dialing in understeer.

However, for a softly sprung car running standard or off-the-shelf suspension, a stiffer front swaybar will actually REDUCE understeer. This is because it reduces the way in which an undersprung car 'falls onto' the front outside wheel under cornering.

Basically for a chassis that is undersprung, a stiffer swaybar and therefore more roll resistance will INCREASE grip. A stiffer swaybar will only reduce grip when there is already sufficient roll resistance to maximise grip.

However, for those who not understand chassis dynamics reasonably (lets face it, the very vast majority), a stiffer front swaybar can give the illusion of more understeer on initial turn-in, because less body roll can feel like less 'bight' at the front end.

Basically for 99.9% of magnas/380s on the street, upgraded rear swaybar = good, upgraded swaybar at both ends = even better.

However, for a softly sprung car running standard or off-the-shelf suspension, a stiffer front swaybar will actually REDUCE understeer. This is because it reduces the way in which an undersprung car 'falls onto' the front outside wheel under cornering.

Basically for a chassis that is undersprung, a stiffer swaybar and therefore more roll resistance will INCREASE grip. A stiffer swaybar will only reduce grip when there is already sufficient roll resistance to maximise grip.

However, for those who not understand chassis dynamics reasonably (lets face it, the very vast majority), a stiffer front swaybar can give the illusion of more understeer on initial turn-in, because less body roll can feel like less 'bight' at the front end.

Basically for 99.9% of magnas/380s on the street, upgraded rear swaybar = good, upgraded swaybar at both ends = even better.

When I have dealt with the guys at Whiteline before they gave the opposite advice to you. They said fitting a thicker FRONT sway to a front wheel drive will cause the front inside wheel to lift and this worsens understeer.

They probably meant if you did JUST the front?

When I have dealt with the guys at Whiteline before they gave the opposite advice to you. They said fitting a thicker FRONT sway to a front wheel drive will cause the front inside wheel to lift and this worsens understeer.

Well one of the chief engineers at Whiteline I spoke to a while ago agrees with me, so they are giving conflicting stories here.

Yes the above is true, a stiffer swaybar does increase lift on the inside wheel via leverage off the outside wheel. However, when we're talking about severly under-sprung street cars where the car is basically falling over onto the front outside wheel due to a severe lack of roll resistance, the increase lift on the inside wheel means bugger-all, and is heavily outweighed by the benefits of increased roll-resistance from a stiffer bar.

In my car I have actually backed off my rear swaybar recently for the track, and liked the result. However, I am running 400lbs springs (over triple the factory rate) and was getting quite alot of turn-in oversteer (without using a trailing brake)

With off-the shelf King Lows/KYB combo on the track I needed every bit of extra roll resistance I could get.

btw I have been tracking my car for some time, with an all manner of different configurations including with and without a stiffer front swaybar..IMO adding the front swaybar when I had the rear definantely reduced understeer with the King Lows/KYB setup

[QUOTE=Chisholm;1106363]Well one of the chief engineers at Whiteline I spoke to a while ago agrees with me, so they are giving conflicting stories here.

Yes the above is true, a stiffer swaybar does increase lift on the inside wheel via leverage off the otherside. However, when we're talking about severly under-sprung street cars where the car is basically falling over onto the front outside wheel due to a severe lack of roll resistance, the increase lift on the inside wheel means bugger-all, and is heavily outweighed by the benefits of increased roll-resistance from a stiffer bar.

In my car I have actually backed off my rear swaybar recently for the track, and liked the result. However, I am running 400lbs springs (over triple the factory rate) and was getting quite alot of turn-in oversteer (without using a trailing brake).

With off-the shelf King Lows/KYB combo on the track I needed every bit of extra roll resistance I could get.

btw I have been tracking my car for some time, with an all manner of different configurations including with and without a stiffer front swaybar..IMO adding the front swaybar when I had the rear definantely reduced understeer with the King Lows/KYB setup


Some great info there,Thanks mate:thumbsup:

So who's keen to get one of these bars & more importantly lives near Minto NSW & will take their front bar in so we can order one of them also??

Just measured both stock bars for anyone who is interested -

Front - 23mm
Rear - 21mm

The Selby's rear bar being 26mm is a hefty increase, will be very interesting to try.

Just measured both stock bars for anyone who is interested -

Front - 23mm
Rear - 21mm

The Selby's rear bar being 26mm is a hefty increase, will be very interesting to try.

Are the factory and Selby bars hollow or solid? E.g if its going from solid 21mm to hollow 26mm, it's not quite such a large step up.

From memory as a general rule of thumb for the same diamater a hollow bar is around 75% as stiff as a hollow one, but something like a 1/4 of the weight.

Also you need to look at where the the bar attaches to the end-links on the Selby bar, compared to the factory bar, as this has an impact. I think many of us here are familar with 'adjustable' swaybars like the Whiteline magna one where the end-link can be bolted into different holes at different locations on the bar.

But basically when it comes to car with factory or soft street-friendly off-the-shelf suspension, you can generally go a hell alot stiffer with the swaybare before it starts becoming 'too stiff'.

Are the factory and Selby bars hollow or solid? E.g if its going from solid 21mm to hollow 26mm, it's not quite such a large step up.

From memory as a general rule of thumb for the same diamater a hollow bar is around 75% as stiff as a hollow one, but something like a 1/4 of the weight.

Also you need to look at where the the bar attaches to the end-links on the Selby bar, compared to the factory bar, as this has an impact. I think many of us here are familar with 'adjustable' swaybars like the Whiteline magna one where the end-link can be bolted into different holes at different locations on the bar.

But basically when it comes to car with factory or soft street-friendly off-the-shelf suspension, you can generally go a hell alot stiffer with the swaybare before it starts becoming 'too stiff'.

The factory bars looked solid to me when I was measuring them. The Selbys, well who knows. I'd imagine they would be solid also & I wonder with the adjustable holes whether hard, med or soft is the position of the factory mount if that makes sense. If it's hard then it can be backed off it is to stiff for the average punter.

Well so far Fulcrum haven't bothered to ring me back, I rang Pedders this morning & they didn't have a listing. They ended up ringing their warehouse & they didn't have a listing either so they said NO we can't get it. I said that's funny coz Selbys say YOU, Fulcrum & Repco are the distributors.

Anyway just rang Repco & they didn't have a listing either but they rang back in 5 minutes & said yep no worries, 4 to 5 days to get made & will be $275 + $15 freight which is $10 cheaper than through Selbys.

So I have bit the bullet & ordered one, will see how it performs.

So I have bit the bullet & ordered one, will see how it performs.

Can you do a write up - with photos? :D

You know you're good at that ;) :liar:

I don't have any money to put on one atm, but I think it's going to be on the future upgrade plan.

Can you do a write up - with photos? :D

You know you're good at that ;) :liar:

I don't have any money to put on one atm, but I think it's going to be on the future upgrade plan.

Mate what do you want photos for, have you looked under the back of your car before?? D clamps easily accessable as well as the control arms & it's a straight bar so easy to pull out not like the front one.

By the way it comes with urathane D bushes.

Can you do a write up - with photos? :D

You know you're good at that ;) :liar:

I don't have any money to put on one atm, but I think it's going to be on the future upgrade plan.

Grab Fooz's old one , cut off the ends and attach to your current one? was reading an article on this at autospeed.com.

Grab Fooz's old one , cut off the ends and attach to your current one? was reading an article on this at autospeed.com.

Ha, he's probably taken to it with his sledgehammer - like his front strut brace....

HAHA! shhh

Ha, he's probably taken to it with his sledgehammer - like his front strut brace....

What do mean by that??? It is my new strut brace lol :gfight:

What do mean by that??? It is my new strut brace :gfight:

:iough:

It would be interesting to see that autospeed trick tried out though.

:iough:

It would be interesting to see that autospeed trick tried out though.

Just read all about it....Sway Bar Shenanigans ! sounds worth while if done right, and can be made easily from scraps from the wreckers I reckon.

Got my swaybar today only one problem ....... wrong shape & size!!!! :nuts:

Went to the Selby's website & they have sent me a Nissan R32 Skyline Front swaybar. :swearing:

Just rang Repco & they are ringing me back.

EDIT - Repco just rang back & apparantly a Skyline owner has just received a 380 swaybar. :doh:

Selby's are gonna make me another one so another week or so wait which doesn't matter to me as the car will be going in for a tune tomorrow anyway.

That sux Fooz. Good luck with your tune tomorrow, I am looking forward to hearing your results.

fitted my adjustable swaybar yesterday to my 380GT.
straight forward install , swaybar comes with D-bushes and brackets for them..

have got it on the medium setting to start with..

certainly a larger swaybar :)
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a99/starlet-turbo/380swaybar3.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a99/starlet-turbo/380swaybar2.jpg

fitted my adjustable swaybar yesterday to my 380GT.
straight forward install , swaybar comes with D-bushes and brackets for them..

have got it on the medium setting to start with..

certainly a larger swaybar :)


Feedback please :hmm:

Got my sway bar today but no car to put it on :swearing:

Got my sway bar today but no car to put it on :swearing:

May we ask...."Why?"....

May we ask...."Why?"....

It's gone in for it's tune :facejump:

Ordered mine from Ripco yesterday, $300 inc postage, will report back after fitting (next weekend?)

KJ.

cartainly a good upgrade , took the car for a blast in the hills and it put a smile on my face...
i recon on the hard setting i'd spin the car around lol
with the lowered springs , the 20's and the swaybar on Med. setting , understeer has disappeared and the vehicle sits flat...

Kj380 , i didn't know selby did gold plated ones...

cartainly a good upgrade , took the car for a blast in the hills and it put a smile on my face...
i recon on the hard setting i'd spin the car around lol
with the lowered springs , the 20's and the swaybar on Med. setting , understeer has disappeared and the vehicle sits flat...

Kj380 , i didn't know selby did gold plated ones...

Brad are you going to try the hard setting or is it already on the verge of oversteer?

it's on the verge mate..
if mine was on the hard setting i'd be facing the wrong way i recon...

in saying that , i took corners on that drive at speeds that i would of not done without that bar fitted...gotta test these things out :)
it would of just gone straight ahead if i didn't have that bar on there..
the tiptronic got a work-out , but it was damn fun.

it's on the verge mate..
if mine was on the hard setting i'd be facing the wrong way i recon...

in saying that , i took corners on that drive at speeds that i would of not done without that bar fitted...gotta test these things out :)
it would of just gone straight ahead if i didn't have that bar on there..
the tiptronic got a work-out , but it was damn fun.

Awesome will be good to see how it performs in the wet.

I was thinking I'd probably start on the medium setting too when I get my car back.

cartainly a good upgrade , took the car for a blast in the hills and it put a smile on my face...
i recon on the hard setting i'd spin the car around lol
with the lowered springs , the 20's and the swaybar on Med. setting , understeer has disappeared and the vehicle sits flat...

Kj380 , i didn't know selby did gold plated ones...



To quote Foozr a few posts back:

Anyway just rang Repco & they didn't have a listing either but they rang back in 5 minutes & said yep no worries, 4 to 5 days to get made & will be $275 + $15 freight which is $10 cheaper than through Selbys.

So Ripco Pt Adelaide are charging me a whole $10 more than Foozr's cost. No gold plating there that I can see!

What did yours cost Brad?

KJ.

i did put an offer up here for people that i can supply them if needed , but it was removed by a moderator..
alot less than $300 mate..

unfortunately i have to leave it at that.

Going by the Selby's site, they add unit cost and shipping, and then charge GST on the total. I didn't think that GST could be charged on shipping?

Going by the Selby's site, they add unit cost and shipping, and then charge GST on the total. I didn't think that GST could be charged on shipping?

Everything attracts GST except healthcare & basic food items.

Mine being one of my company cars I will claim the GST back & get a tax deduction :facejump:

pics of an install so i can add it to the encyclopedia

Just finished bolting up the new 26mm bar, the factory 21mm looks like a toothpick compared to this badboy!

I went medium setting same as BradGT as this lined up with the stock bar hole. Will report back when I find some twisty stuff to try her out.

..... Would've been nice to have this on for yesterday's cruise although I may have ended up upside down somewhere if I got the settings wrong :eek2:

Just got mine fitted, middle hole like everyone else.

Feels like it weighs twice as much as the stocker, and very solid as well.

Haven't had a chance to test it around some twisties yet.

KJ.

This handles greaaaaaaaaooooosssshhhhhiiiiiiitttt oversteer !!! lol let us all know how things go guys!!!

I did a fair bit of driving in mine today but no real twisty bits. A few bends I did go around I pushed it a bit & definately no body roll but need to go somewhere & give it a real test. Medium seems like a good starting point anyway.

After some advice here guys.

About a week ago I noticed intermittent creaking/groaning noises coming from the rear suspension at very low speed. Generally when there was any movement, no matter how slight, in any of the three planes of movement - accelerating/braking, turning, and going up and down over bumps, drains etc.

No such noises at anything much above 20km/h, but I suspect the noise is still there but it is masked by the exhaust and tyre noise.

By coincidence these noises started just after I had new rims fitted, but I couldn't see how that could be the cause.

Anyway, I just had my 45,000k service, and the dealer reckons the creaking/groaning is coming from the nolathane bushes on the Selby sway bar, which is what I suspected.

He explained that when the sway bar was fitted some water-based fitting lube was applied to the bushes (and I saw the guy who fitted it doing this), but because it is water based it has now evaporated away, which takes about two weeks.

He also advised that grease/lube/oil should not be applied to nolathane bushes.

Question is, is there anything I can do to get rid of the annoying creaking & groaning (and still retain the Selby sway bar of course!)?

Treat the existing bushes in some way?

Fit different bushes?

KJ.

My Selby came with grease to apply to the nolathane bushes.....don't know what type of grease it is as it was'nt labeled.

lithium grease. it should have come with a packet or two. you should not use water based lubes as they evaporate very quickly.

Yep mine came with grease which I applied as per directions.

Seems mine came with only the water based fitting lube.

Contacted the dealer mechanic who reckoned try some silver or copper grease, from Sprint Auto.

Went to Sprint, the bloke there reckons no way can nolathane bushes on a sway bar move enough to cause the noises I'm getting, he said I should try some CRC to start with to see if that gets rid of the noise (wont hurt the bushes but will dissipate quickly), and that way work out what is making the noise and where it is coming from. Then, if it is the sway bar bushes, some copper grease might help, but he doubted it. Bought a tube of copper grease anyway, only $8.

Funny thing is, after picking the car up from the dealer, no noise (yet), but they didn't do anything!

KJ.

Seems mine came with only the water based fitting lube.

Contacted the dealer mechanic who reckoned try some silver or copper grease, from Sprint Auto.

Went to Sprint, the bloke there reckons no way can nolathane bushes on a sway bar move enough to cause the noises I'm getting, he said I should try some CRC to start with to see if that gets rid of the noise (wont hurt the bushes but will dissipate quickly), and that way work out what is making the noise and where it is coming from. Then, if it is the sway bar bushes, some copper grease might help, but he doubted it. Bought a tube of copper grease anyway, only $8.

Funny thing is, after picking the car up from the dealer, no noise (yet), but they didn't do anything!

KJ.

Well I'm telling you it will work, I bolted mine to the chassis first with the two ends free & it easily slided back & forth in the greased bushes to line up the link arms.

does anyone no what these are made from is it regular steel or is high tensile steel. thinking of getting one made if cheaper as dad works at a engineering mob.

does anyone no what these are made from is it regular steel or is high tensile steel. thinking of getting one made if cheaper as dad works at a engineering mob.

Spring steel I would've thought?

Just to bump an old thread. The front sway bar bushes that were being chopped out, where were they located? Anyone got a pic? This may be the knocking noise that I have been chasing for a while. Had it in to mitsi but they couldnt (or wouldnt) find anything. I thought it was suspension related so it may be the sway bar.

Sorry Matey, this thread is about the Selby rear sway bar, and your knocking noise problem seems to about the front end and/or the front sway bar/bushes.

KJ.

I'm thinking I might bump my bar up to the hardest setting as the car is pretty neutral on medium with no sign of oversteer.

How are all you other guys going with yours??

How hard have you pushed it on medium? What is it like in the wet? I would probably have a feel in the wet first to see how it behaves. Neutral isn't a bad thing!

How hard have you pushed it on medium? What is it like in the wet? I would probably have a feel in the wet first to see how it behaves. Neutral isn't a bad thing!

I've pushed it pretty hard on medium, only problem in QLD lately it doesn't f...ing rain!! Very definite improvement on turn in & flat through the corners. I'd say a 380 that wasn't lowered with stock tyres may experience oversteer though.

it's different all the time..
everyone drives dirrerently and want their car to perform differently , and each car setup vary's , so there is no correct position for the swaybar , hence why it's adjustable...

my GT is lowered on 20's , on medium setting im happy...
"turn-in" is instant and precise , no body roll and certainly no understeer....the hard setting increased oversteer too much.

with a stock height 380 with the 17in. 55 series tyres , the harder setting might work better....have to try it for yourself untill your happy.

it's different all the time..
everyone drives dirrerently and want their car to perform differently , and each car setup vary's , so there is no correct position for the swaybar , hence why it's adjustable...

my GT is lowered on 20's , on medium setting im happy...
"turn-in" is instant and precise , no body roll and certainly no understeer....the hard setting increased oversteer too much.

with a stock height 380 with the 17in. 55 series tyres , the harder setting might work better....have to try it for yourself untill your happy.

I'm definitely happy with the car on medium but will give the hard setting a try out of curiousity. If it unbalances the car I will go back to medium. As you said the turn in is instant & precise, bit hard to explain the feel but is totally different going into a corner.

Guys,

I'd be really interested in two situations;
1. Turn in quickly and carrying some speed into a slowish corner - as the car settles into sideways G and the tyres' grip is at maximum; does the rear slide slightly with the weight transfer?
2. On a higher speed and more open corner, turning into the corner gradually and naturally, but increasing throttle does this induce understeer?

Guys,

I'd be really interested in two situations;
1. Turn in quickly and carrying some speed into a slowish corner - as the car settles into sideways G and the tyres' grip is at maximum; does the rear slide slightly with the weight transfer?
2. On a higher speed and more open corner, turning into the corner gradually and naturally, but increasing throttle does this induce understeer?

Haven't really tried a number 1 but number 2 there is no understeer at full throttle with the blower in say 3rd through a sweeper in my car anyway. Different story in 1st, nearly hit a gutter taking off quick the other day, was turning but the spinning wheels were sending me straight ahead.

Will see if I can try a number 1 for ya.

......... :think: sounds like toilet talk doesn't it :wtf:

Hope no 380 drivers have missed out on a rear swaybar, just looking at the Selby website &&&&& ................

"Selbys Swaybars has temporarily ceased trading
Due to many factors including business relocation, we are not currently able to supply the Selbys Swaybar range to the market. We hope to be able to re-organise and re-open for business soon and ask for your patience while we get our house in order.

We are available to discuss any concerns that you may have and would like to thank you for your support. Please direct all e-mail inquiry’s to mail@selbys.com.au"

yeah , Selby's havn't traded for a couple months now, makes it hard to get rarer swaybars..and whileline don't make the 380 ones...
i did post up that i had some 380 one's for a couple hundred bucks , but it was deleted by a moderator as im not a trader here , and now they are all gone...Sorry.

I found the chassis quite capable and I can get lift off oversteer with just the Stock GT

It is even better now it is lowered

So can some enlighten me as to how this rear bar helps??

does it just reduce the body roll ??

I found the chassis quite capable and I can get lift off oversteer with just the Stock GT

It is even better now it is lowered

So can some enlighten me as to how this rear bar helps??

does it just reduce the body roll ??

I run mine on medium with the lowered springs & it corners flat no matter how hard I push it. I definitely noticed an improvement.

Ah OK

might put this on the list for stuff to do later

White did you get one machined by your dads firm??

I found the chassis quite capable and I can get lift off oversteer with just the Stock GT

Actually, you can get oversteer very easily by the way you approach a corner's apex. You don't need to resort to lift off oversteer; in fact I hate that characteristic of FWD.

If you approach a corner and carry your speed very deep into it and then tip the car into the corner quite sharply (viciously!) the car will oversteer exactly like a RWD. It's incredibly easy to recover out of it - just put your foot on the throttle and the front will pull you round. This works because the chassis has already rotated around its axis due to the rear wheel loss of grip so driving out doesn't end up in understeer.

I can replicate this everyday around a large roundabout I use going to work. I can alternate between understeer (slow in, feed the power in) or oversteer (as above).

Don't try this unless you have the sports suspension (and the other usual riders; safety, speed limit etc) !


So can some enlighten me as to how this rear bar helps??

does it just reduce the body roll ??

When you lower the car it helps COG (centre of gravity) because that is lowered as well which increases lateral force, reduces suspension movement, transferring more direct sideways force into the tyres. Note; good for dry weather, not so good for wet weather grip.

However, lowering is acheived by shorter springs which have to be compensated by being made harder. The balance between shock absorber rates and spring rates acheived in the original design is changed introducing more understeer tendencies.

The rear sway bar typically reduces roll moment of the rear of the car and by doing so makes the car more likely to oversteer. Converse is true as well for the front sway bar.

So fitting a rear sway can compensate for the understeer tendency introduced by lowering.

why "lift off" oversteer, when you can "flat out" oversteer ? :)

why "lift off" oversteer, when you can "flat out" oversteer ? :)

:thumbsup:

You're talking my language, haha!

Seriously, it's the best FWD handling I've experienced. It's so adjustable.

Lift off oversteer is usually when you come to a corner too fast, back off the throttle suddenly, the front digs into the corner and the rear swings around and you're out of control. Sure, you can use this a bit if you're anticipating it, but it's nowhere near the best or tidiest way through a corner fast.
One of the main reasons RWD advocates hate FWD.

In the 380 you don't have to be "flat out", the actual technique is just to carry more speed than usual deeper into the corner - usually a recipe for mass understeer and disaster in any other FWD. Then the "flick" into the corner produces the oversteer which is a smooth transition, it's not like the tail comes swinging around and the car goes sideways - nothing that extreme. Once the car is oversteering you can use the throttle to pull the front through the corner and the car gets back into line. There is no extreme weight shifting.

hi guys, any updates on the rear sway bar? any other sources?

hi guys, any updates on the rear sway bar? any other sources?

Try calling Fulcrum Suspensions, they took over the Selby operation. Not sure if they are down your way but the Marooka Store in Brisbane is head office.

chris (380FTW) bought one from pedders in the last week, non adjustable and a bit thinner than the selbys but def better than the stock. Ill try to find the price from him on thursday. (hes not online much.)

hi guys, any updates on the rear sway bar? any other sources?

one of the guys got it locally from Caringbah in sydney

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82399

The 26mm adjustable rear bar is available from Signature Swaybars, rear 32 Box Rd, Taren Point. Todd Selby is very helpful on any bar problems, phone 02 9525 5619, but don't waste his time.

hey guys - i know this might be silly question - but - where is the rear sway bar located? do i need a hoist? i have SX series III and I have no idea if there is rear sway bar. cheers

Yep, the SX came with a rear sway bar. IMO I would wait until you get your car lowered before you buy a sway bar. The way my car handles at the moment, haven't had the need for one yet.

Yeah give Todd Selby a call at Signature Swaybars if interested in sway bars, he has the specs and will whip one up in around 2 weeks, he talked me out of a 26mm and went for a 24mm instead, he will explain why. $240 pickup from Taren Point. ps bring cash,he doesn't have EFTPOS or credit facilities.

Yeah give Todd Selby a call at Signature Swaybars if interested in sway bars, he has the specs and will whip one up in around 2 weeks, he talked me out of a 26mm and went for a 24mm instead, he will explain why. $240 pickup from Taren Point. ps bring cash,he doesn't have EFTPOS or credit facilities.

cool - when funds accumulate again i will do - can he install it - or who or where can install the sway bar? I am no mechanic guys. cheers