Hi All,

One thing that has been annoying me with the auto box is that it sometimes doesnt select the right gear when you apply full throttle at lower speeds.

For e.g.

I was driving in a 80 zone and had to slow down for a car to turn left. I slowed to around 50kmh, applied full throttle and the auto selected 1st gear to accelerate. This resulted in the car revving its tits off...ideally it should have chose 2nd.

I have reset the auto trans a few times, its shifting smoothly, it just annoys me when it does this.

I am wondering if anyone else has had this issue?

This resulted in the car revving its tits off...ideally it should have chose 2nd.

I am wondering if anyone else has had this issue?

I know what you mean but this is where u need to use the tippy. For those one off situations sometimes the auto just can't respond properly when it's used to one type of driving style.
I get the same when overtaking at 80kph. It sometimes drops back to 2nd til 100kph and then launches into third after the hitting the rev limiter (exagerating a bit). Sometimes you want it to change up and select the next gear but it takes a couple of seconds - just the limitation of (non sports) autos unfortunately.

Yeah I've found that too, and usually go to manual mode for that fast overtake (or if need to get out of merging lane, etc) - otherwise you can lose too much time in auto.

yeah Manual mode for the get of of dodge situations for me

yeah Manual mode for the get of of dodge situations for me

Yep If you just punch it to get through an amber light (not that anyone would do that would we?) it takes a booking, gives you a ticket and asks you to wait in line whilst it thinks about changing down. Then, as stated, it goes into psycho mode and throws you into a gear in which the car is already valve bouncing and then gives you whip lash as it thrusts you up a gear. Exagerate? Me? Couldn't imagine it!!

Mine lives in tiptronic. It takes far to long to kick down when you want the power and below 80 it goes into 2nd which paired with the exhaust just makes people think im hooning all the bloody time! And I also figure I have a higher mental capacity than the gearbox to decide when I want to go back a couple of gears...I hope. Mine however does not go into first unless im under 35ish?

Hi All,

I slowed to around 50kmh, APPLIED FULL THROTTLE and the auto selected 1st gear to accelerate. This resulted in the car revving its tits off...ideally it should have chose 2nd.

Well,isnt that what you would expect if you used FULL throttle....next time dont hoof it as much and maybe it will pick 2nd instead of dropping right back to first.

Well,isnt that what you would expect if you used FULL throttle....next time dont hoof it as much and maybe it will pick 2nd instead of dropping right back to first.

...and that is why you are only getting 10.7L. Go Braedz luv the kick down!! lol

Well,isnt that what you would expect if you used FULL throttle....next time dont hoof it as much and maybe it will pick 2nd instead of dropping right back to first.

I will try not too next time lol

I think I've mentioned it before, but there is a simple solution to all these auto trans woes.

Get a manual!

Yeah, easier said than done I know, especially if you've already got an auto.

Does pose a question though - just how much would it cost to convert a 380 auto to manual?

Probably more than trading the auto in on a manual. If you could find one that is. But if you traded you would lose all/most mods you have already done to your auto.

Guess the moral of the story is if you want complete control over what your gearbox is doing, get a manual to start with.

KJ.

No disrespect intended, my brother in law has the manual vrx and I woop his ass on take off.

What's your 0-100k time in the manual 380 kj380?

Actually I have a question about the auto. Does lifting off the accelerator during upshifts on the auto have any negative affects on the box? Possibly the most unintelligent question I have ever posed but there you go

No disrespect intended, my brother in law has the manual vrx and I woop his ass on take off.

What's your 0-100k time in the manual 380 kj380?

Never timed it so I don't know, but I'm guessing that in ideal conditions with a best possible launch about 7 seconds, maybe a little less, seeing as the stocker has been tested at 7.6 seconds.

But of course ideal conditions are hard to come by, and best possible launch in a manual is even harder. With the power I am now putting down it is a very fine line between massive wheelspin / 'bunny hopping' and bogging down, and it probably takes more skill than I can muster to consistently get it right.

I'd have to trial a number of launches to find the right combination of revs and clutch release, and I'm a bit worried about blowing the clutch or gearbox or drive shafts to do that. Never mind burning a few thousand ks worth of rubber off the front hoops!

I have tried max attack on a dry road from a 10km/h rolling start in first gear and it spins the wheels and hops around all the way through first and all the way through second, with a solid chirp on the second to third change (at 80km/h) even with TCL trying to do its thing.

On a wet or even damp road there is no point giving it heaps in first or second, it's wheelspin & TCL city.

And I have quality tyres with good tread and good wet road grip.

So you could be right, a well sorted auto driven by someone who knows their stuff probably would take off better than a manual driven by a non-expert like me.

But IMO take off and 0-100 isn't everything, in gear acceleration, response and overtaking ability are just as important if not more so. And that's where a manual will woop an auto every time.

I have tested my 80km/h to 120km/h time and its around four seconds flat. I doubt if any auto 380 (short of Foozr's S/C job when he gets it tuned & sorted and maybe a TMR) can get near that time.

KJ.

I have tested my 80km/h to 120km/h time and its around four seconds flat. I doubt if any auto 380 (short of Foozr's S/C job when he gets it tuned & sorted and maybe a TMR) can get near that time.

KJ.

I think a few modded NA autos would get very close to that time IMHO.

Never timed it so I don't know, but I'm guessing that in ideal conditions with a best possible launch about 7 seconds, maybe a little less, seeing as the stocker has been tested at 7.6 seconds.

But of course ideal conditions are hard to come by, and best possible launch in a manual is even harder. With the power I am now putting down it is a very fine line between massive wheelspin / 'bunny hopping' and bogging down, and it probably takes more skill than I can muster to consistently get it right.

I'd have to trial a number of launches to find the right combination of revs and clutch release, and I'm a bit worried about blowing the clutch or gearbox or drive shafts to do that. Never mind burning a few thousand ks worth of rubber off the front hoops!

I have tried max attack on a dry road from a 10km/h rolling start in first gear and it spins the wheels and hops around all the way through first and all the way through second, with a solid chirp on the second to third change (at 80km/h) even with TCL trying to do its thing.

On a wet or even damp road there is no point giving it heaps in first or second, it's wheelspin & TCL city.

And I have quality tyres with good tread and good wet road grip.

So you could be right, a well sorted auto driven by someone who knows their stuff probably would take off better than a manual driven by a non-expert like me.

But IMO take off and 0-100 isn't everything, in gear acceleration, response and overtaking ability are just as important if not more so. And that's where a manual will woop an auto every time.

I have tested my 80km/h to 120km/h time and its around four seconds flat. I doubt if any auto 380 (short of Foozr's S/C job when he gets it tuned & sorted and maybe a TMR) can get near that time.

KJ.


I suspected that traction issues would be the limiting factor.

It's these traction issues that make me think that if you are wanting to put much more than stock power to the ground then an auto is perhaps the best choice for most people contemplating 170+Kw ATW

Also an LSD should be a top priority if that is the case me thinks.

(someone please do it so I have a shopping list on it please)

Here's how TMR addressed the 380 FWD/Torque steer issues.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zwlutWC59sQ

You shouldn't actually get torque steer in the 380 as it has equal length driveshafts.

You will however get a bit of tracking on uneven roads in my experience ........ or just wheelspin with a blower :P


Also an LSD should be a top priority if that is the case me thinks.

(someone please do it so I have a shopping list on it please)

Hey I'm keen if someone can show me a Quaife will go in the auto!!

KJ why don't you go an LSD, the Quaife should go straight into your transaxle as it is the same as the Magna 5 speed.

Yes Fooz we are all awaiting your lead on this lol!!

Yes Fooz we are all awaiting your lead on this lol!!

Well come on dig up some info on a Quaife in an auto (Magna/380) & any mods neccessary & I will be the guinee pig & order one!!

Well come on dig up some info on a Quaife in an auto (Magna/380) & any mods neccessary & I will be the guinee pig & order one!!


US galant forums is a good start me thinks.

http://www.thegalantcenter.net/forum.php

US galant forums is a good start me thinks.

http://www.thegalantcenter.net/forum.php

Been there done that no info.

You shouldn't actually get torque steer in the 380 as it has equal length driveshafts.

You will however get a bit of tracking on uneven roads in my experience ........ or just wheelspin with a blower :P



Hey I'm keen if someone can show me a Quaife will go in the auto!!

KJ why don't you go an LSD, the Quaife should go straight into your transaxle as it is the same as the Magna 5 speed.

When I first got my 380, with the 225/50 17s off my old TE fitted to it (I swapped the dealer for the 380 factory 16" alloys), and before any mods, I had heaps of torque steer in first and second gears. I distinctly remember one day planting it on West Terrace in second gear at around 40km/h and having to suddenly pull it back in line as it tried to change lanes by itself!

Once I upgraded to bigger & better tyres, and even after the 'go faster' mods, I haven't experienced any torque steer.

I suspect that my mods, although they have increased the torque, have smoothed out the delivery a bit, so it is now more progressive than the sudden hit that the stocker can give.

And the low gearing in the manual probably has a fair bit to do with it.

Yep, next mod on the list is a Quaife LSD. I'll start shopping around for a 'supply & fit' deal.

KJ

When I first got my 380, with the 225/50 17s off my old TE fitted to it (I swapped the dealer for the 380 factory 16" alloys), and before any mods, I had heaps of torque steer in first and second gears. I distinctly remember one day planting it on West Terrace in second gear at around 40km/h and having to suddenly pull it back in line as it tried to change lanes by itself!

Once I upgraded to bigger & better tyres, and even after the 'go faster' mods, I haven't experienced any torque steer.

I suspect that my mods, although they have increased the torque, have smoothed out the delivery a bit, so it is now more progressive than the sudden hit that the stocker can give.

And the low gearing in the manual probably has a fair bit to do with it.

Yep, next mod on the list is a Quaife LSD. I'll start shopping around for a 'supply & fit' deal.

KJ

I find mines ok if you have in pointing straight ahead, however if you plant it as you are pulling out to pass a car & haven't strightened up yet it can get a bit scary.

Re the Quaife, you are probably better grabbing one yourself & get it installed at a good transmission shop. RPW quoted me $1400 about a year ago & they said they had an order coming soon so might pay to check the price since the dollar is a bit more favourable at the moment. You will also need a speedo gear (ours is welded to the diff) & bearings.

I emailed Quaife a while ago and they reckon they didn't have a suitable LSD for the auto.I think I've read some where(this forum maybe?) that one will fit but the case needs some minor mods?Not sure though! $1400,was that fitted Fooz? If not then you'd have to be looking at 2g for the whole deal maybe which is a fair wack!But an LSD should be one of the best mods as it would see 0-100 times etc reduced dramatically and also improve hard cornering capabilities.I guess you just gotta way up the cost V the way you drive 99% of the time to see if its worth spending the cash on it.

I emailed Quaife a while ago and the reckon they didn't have a suitable LSD for the auto.I think I've read some where(this forum maybe?) that one will fit but the case needs some minor mods?

I was the one that said about the mods but that is just something I have heard & have no proof it will fit.

Did you email Quaife UK or US?? I have spoken to the US dealers & they didn't think they had anything that would fit but if I could give them spline counts etc they said it might go. No way of getting that info so I gave up.

I was the one that said about the mods but that is just something I have heard & have no proof it will fit.

Did you email Quaife UK or US?? I have spoken to the US dealers & they didn't think they had anything that would fit but if I could give them spline counts etc they said it might go. No way of getting that info so I gave up.

Hi Fooz, yeah I think is was the UK from memory.Definatley would want proof that it will fit for sure otherwise it would make a good paper weight I guess!

I emailed Quaife a while ago and they reckon they didn't have a suitable LSD for the auto.I think I've read some where(this forum maybe?) that one will fit but the case needs some minor mods?Not sure though! $1400,was that fitted Fooz? If not then you'd have to be looking at 2g for the whole deal maybe which is a fair wack!But an LSD should be one of the best mods as it would see 0-100 times etc reduced dramatically and also improve hard cornering capabilities.I guess you just gotta way up the cost V the way you drive 99% of the time to see if its worth spending the cash on it.

$1400 was diff alone. I think it was about $1600 with bearings etc. I think you would be looking around at least $1k for someone to pull the box assemble & reinstall.

I'd do it straight away if someone could say I have a diff here & it will bolt straight into your transaxle.

ive found that the best plan of attack for a good kick down when overtaking with a non-tippy is to either manually drop it down a gear for overtaking, or go WOT very briefly to get the trans to drop down a gear release the throttle briefly and then plant it

Just got an email from RPW saying that it fits a 380 auto.

Have asked teh nice man to re-check his facts and get back to me.

If they say it will work I'll grab a couple. :)

Just got an email from RPW saying that it fits a 380 auto.

Have asked teh nice man to re-check his facts and get back to me.

If they say it will work I'll grab a couple. :)

Can you forward me a copy of the email?

Who did you speak to, Dave? He is the one that told me it should fit with some case mods but he summised that because someone on a forum in the US with a 5 speed auto out of some other Mitsubishi had done it. He told me he knew of no one in Aust that had done it, which wasn't good enough for me.

I want a definite if I go to the expense of removing the transaxle & stripping it only to find it doesn't fit. Meanwhile $1500 later I get my transaxle back in with no LSD :angry:

PM me your email addy and will do mate


They qualified it that it may work....