Hi, first post here and before I start looking into a million previous messages thought I would ask first.
My 2001 3.5 Magna Auto has started to go harshly into reverse.
When you then put it into drive the neutral light flashes.

Any ideas what the problem is?

The gbox was rebuilt about 18 months ago.

Thanks

The manual says that its overheating if it flashes twice a second.

Edit: Check the ATF. Flush if needed. Heaps of threads on this subject.

means theres a problem with the box
when the neutral light flashes its flashing you a code
will need to go to a gearbox place or mitsubishi to get it checked
tho you might be able to check it yourself

Welcome to AMC :)

Hi, yes I jumped in too quick, just had a brief search on this site.

It is flashing once per second.

Gbox level is fine, but it smells & looks almost like engine oil!

Would they have done the rebuild and then filled with engine oil for some reason, (running in)?

We sort of got ripped off with the rebuild - They said it would cost approx $2500 then phoned us after the strip and said its gonna cost yer! - $3500.

We ended up paying $2800 cash with no receipt, so who knows what sort of job they did?

Hi, yes I jumped in too quick, just had a brief search on this site.

It is flashing once per second.

Gbox level is fine, but it smells & looks almost like engine oil!

Would they have done the rebuild and then filled with engine oil for some reason, (running in)?

We sort of got ripped off with the rebuild - They said it would cost approx $2500 then phoned us after the strip and said its gonna cost yer! - $3500.

We ended up paying $2800 cash with no receipt, so who knows what sort of job they did?

If they put engine oil in it mate, the gearbox would be toast.
Gearbox was rebuilt 18 months ago? Has the gearbox been serviced since then? The fluid should be a nice pinky colour.

short answer ure gerabox needs a service
the black engine oil looking oil is oil that has overheated...
what exactly did they do to the gearbox???
did they replace the wave spring? (if so with single piece circle one or a spiral one)
did they replace clutch discs???

overheating is caused by too much oil, lack of oil, clutch discs that are worn and slipping creating extra heat or blocked oil cooler....

do a service a see how it goes from there...

I think it may have been a clip that caused the original problem and I think they changed a few other things.

The oil isn't dirty, and there is no sign of any red - just looks and smells like clear engine oil.

Will get it serviced and see how it goes.

BTW. With it being rebuilt 18 months ago, it has done well below average k's.

I think it may have been a clip that caused the original problem and I think they changed a few other things.

The oil isn't dirty, and there is no sign of any red - just looks and smells like clear engine oil.

Will get it serviced and see how it goes.

BTW. With it being rebuilt 18 months ago, it has done well below average k's.
Automatic transmission fluid is red, so if the oil is brown, it's dirty mate. Not only dirty, but burnt and no longer doing its job. ATF should be changed annually regardless of kms.

I know what dirty auto oil looks like and this isnt the same.
It is clear like clean engine oil.
I wiped the stick on white paper and there is no trace of red/pink/or dirt.
The smell is also not your usual auto trans oil smell.

yeah atf i find is red and smells sorta like old peaches. but maybe im just hungry all the time.

I know what dirty auto oil looks like and this isnt the same.
It is clear like clean engine oil.
I wiped the stick on white paper and there is no trace of red/pink/or dirt.
The smell is also not your usual auto trans oil smell.

I dont think you understand what disciple is trying to say. The ATF oil SHOULD be pink, because that is what the original Mitsubishi ATF oil colour is. if it is clear, you probably have the wrong ATF oil in there because Magna transmission only functions best with the original factory grade ATF fluid.

IF this is the case, do an ATF flush as I am sure you got dodgy oil in there and put in the original stuff. if it solved the problem, then good; if not you may try software training (many threads in here about it). if that still does not work, I am afraid your trans is fudged.

Agree with several above posts. If you can't see how what is in your box was ever a red/pinky colour, then they have prob used non-standard auto-trans fluid. While is is possible to buy non-Mitsi trans fluid which is compatible, lots of otherwise-decent fluids create unhappy Magna transmissions.

Its likely that you had a wave-spring break and create damage in your transmission - has happened to lots of us. The repair is expensive as box has to be removed, completely stripped-down to check for broken pieces and the damage they cause, then damaged parts replaced and box reassembled and refitted to car. Mine cost $2200-00 - but I am very confident about the bona-fides of the well-respected family business who did the work. Dad's car cost $900-00 for similar job - but we hauled the box out, took it to workshop, then got it back home, then re-installed to car - 2-3 days of our time with 3 or 4 family members slaving away at it.

Search these forums for "Workshop Manual thread" - download the Genuine Mitsubishi Workshop manuals for your model of Magna, install the PDF files on your 'pooter and have a read of the auto trans chapter - esp focussed on troubleshooting and the meanings of the flashing indicator lamps. This will cost you nothing but some of your time and effort. Based on what the workshop manual suggests, decide if you think a FLUSH of trans fluid is likely to help (it certainly won't harm - but if worse damage is suggested it might be pointless). While you are reading the Workshop manual, read about how trans fluid needs to be FLUSHED, not "drained" from the transmission, and if you don't do the task yourselves make sure that those doing the job do it the correct way.

These forums will detail advice and experiences if you search "wave spring" (very likely your original problem), could also try "flashing", "neutral light/lamp", "transmission fluid", "flush".

I had this happen to me this morning so I checked my workshop manual.

I beleive that the OP had advised that the N was flashing once per second, not twice...



DIAGNOSIS FUNCTION
1. N (Neutral) range light
The N range light flashes at a frequency of approximately
1 Hz (once per second) if there is an abnormality in any
of the items in the table below which are related to the A/T
system. Check for diagnosis trouble codes if the N range
light is flashing at a frequency of approximately 1 Hz.
N range light flashing items
* Input shaft speed sensor
* Output shaft speed sensor
* Each solenoid valve
* Gear incorrect ratio

Caution
 If the N range light is flashing at a frequency of
approximately 2 Hz (two flashes per second), it means
that the automatic transmission fluid temperature is
too high. Stop the vehicle in a safe place and wait
until the N range light switches off.

have you washed the engine down lately or had some big rain where water could have splashed over the motor? water can get into the sensors at the top of the box and will produce the flashing light.... also gears going into reverse will be harsh and if you pay close attention the car will not use all of her gears.... i have had this happen .......the car goes into limp home mode while the sensor is wet. the only way to fix is dry the sensors out if that doesnt work get another from wreckers and replace it.

Thanks for your help guys.

Today I flushed the oil out and replaced it with Valvolene ATF DX-3.
Is this ok? Say Yes!

The guy in the shop reckoned it was!

Must admit once the oil was out, it certainly had the burnt red look about it!
Why does it not look like that on your dipstick?

I remember it had a similar look on the stick when the box stuffed up 18 months ago, and the mechanic said the oil was really bad then.

I got the impression then that the dip stick could be located in a little compartment that isn't mixining with the majority of the fill?

Anyway, after the flush all seems fine - no flashing light - no harsh reverse.

SO......Is it the viscocity or dirt somewhere that creates this problem?

Thanks again!

sorry nooo its not dx3 is stanard atf fluid mits boxs require sp3 trans oil more exprensive but reasonable when brought from mits $38 for 5L

alot of fine passageways and checkvalves if oil is dirty and burnt doesn;t have same properties and cant control the box as well,
it also affects the lubrication of the box and pressure on the clutch packs

Thanks for your help guys.

Today I flushed the oil out and replaced it with Valvolene ATF DX-3.
Is this ok? Say Yes!

The guy in the shop reckoned it was!

Must admit once the oil was out, it certainly had the burnt red look about it!
Why does it not look like that on your dipstick?

I remember it had a similar look on the stick when the box stuffed up 18 months ago, and the mechanic said the oil was really bad then.

I got the impression then that the dip stick could be located in a little compartment that isn't mixining with the majority of the fill?

Anyway, after the flush all seems fine - no flashing light - no harsh reverse.

SO......Is it the viscocity or dirt somewhere that creates this problem?

Thanks again!
Incorrect oil.

Change it ASAP.

Yikes, I went through 3 x 5ltrs at 37 bucks each!!!!

Actually the problem is still there - seems like it is occuring during fast idle(cold start).

If you wait a while so that the revs come down it is then ok.

Is this faster idle problem on initial start up linked with something simple?

fast idle on startup, is normal - esp if the car has sat overnight / is cold.

Its the ECU letting more air into the engine via the bypass on the throttle body, to help the engine warm up faster - like a choke on a carby but its automatic and you have no adjustment.

change the transmission fluid back out again ASAP i think - magnas are VERY tempromental (spelling?) about what transmission fluid they will run.

the widely agreed consensus, is the Magna transmission works much better using the genuine Mitsubishi transmission fluid.
Its not overly expensive for the genuine stuff either, which in itself is a good but suprising thing.

EDIT - I will only use the genuine mitsubishi fluid in my transmission for the simple fact it has the Mitsubishi logo on the bottle. it may be made by someone else (more probable!) but it is the mitsubishi factory fill item / endorsed item.

Well, a few journeys since the flush and oil replacement and the fault is still there.....sometimes?

Does that mean it is an electrical fault?

Some days fine - other days terrible!

Well, a few journeys since the flush and oil replacement and the fault is still there.....sometimes?

Does that mean it is an electrical fault?

Some days fine - other days terrible!

Have you flushed it back to mitsubishi fluid yet?

just for info, the Mitsi SP3 fluid is made by BP. When i buy 1l packs from my dealer it is in a BP bottle, with SP3 on it etc. the 5l packs are Mitsi bottles.

Many places and brands supply the correct fluid, you do not need to go to mits to get the correct fluid however make sure is the proper fluid

Remove all sensors off your trans as prev stated and check for clean connections etc as this is a common problem, especially in the later Magna's

If all still no good, get a MUTT plugged into it and get the actual fault code read so you know what you are looking at to save all the guess work

I ended up putting Fuchs 4400 in it.
Coventrys searched their system and that is what they came up with!

It does seem to be doing higher revs prior to it having the problem.
If it starts and runs at low revs it seems to be ok.

Really 50/50 at the mo.

How much does it cost to get a MUTT plugged in?

I presume that would only be available at a dealers.