I want to look at upgrading my braking system when the first pads become due, have been looking at better rotors & pads & also bigger brake kits.

Just wondering what is the average distance everyone is getting with their 380's before they need a pad change?

Edit - I'm currently at 40,000 & still going.

you need lower options, i think my pads lasted about 20000km

my pads lasted about 30,000ks

I kept getting crazy amounts of vibration if I attempted to brake from anything above 80kph.

Mitsubishi call it "brake raunch" and said that it was a normal thing.

I since changed all four pads and skimmed discs from a reputable garage which isnt mitsubishi.

you need lower options, i think my pads lasted about 20000km

:eek2: 20000km!!! Well I've just clocked 40k & still going & I think Knotched said his was way higher but he does a lot of highway driving.

60k and still going strong, all though I have experienced some loss of brake performance after some VERY heavy braking, I think the pads may be glazed? If that makes sence.

I think it depends a lot on your driving style and whether you drive a manual or an auto.

I changed my stock front pads for Bendix CTs at around the 30,000 km mark, but they were not even one third worn. I believe I would have got over 100,000 km out of them before they needed replacement. But they were just too squealy for my liking, so I changed them.

With my old TE Magna 3.0 manual I got over 150,000km from a set of front Bendix Ultimate pads (with DBA 4000 rotors), and they still had some meat on them.

I suspect I get exceptionally good mileage from front pads because I drive a manual and because of my driving style.

Put simply, because I use COAST (concentration, observation and anticipation creating space and time - my last prang of any type was nearly 30 years ago and I've done over 500,000 km in that time), I use the brakes much less often and much more 'softly' than 95% of other drivers. When I see a light change to red or stopped traffic a hundred or two hundred metres in front I lift off, down change a gear or two, and coast to a gentle stop, with hardly any brake pressure. Sometimes I don't even have to touch the brakes at all, and the lights change to green before I come to a stop. Meanwhile, nearly everyone else goes barrelling up to the red light or stopped line of traffic and slams their skids on at the last minute. And I reckon at least 95% of these drivers are driving autos not manuals. I notice this all the time - auto drivers tend to have two modes - hard on the go pedal or hard on the whoa pedal, with nothing in between. And because I concentrate and watch what is going on well ahead, I take pre-evasive action well before any sticky situation develops and I hardly ever get 'surprised' in such a way that I have to brake at all hard. I can only remember three times in 35 years of driving where I had to brake hard to avoid a prang.

Don't get me wrong, I'm no cardigan wearing snail (over 50 speeding tickets in the last 30 years but no prangs - speed kills - yeah, right!), it's just that if you keep your wits about you and employ COAST, you can still be a 'press on' driver and be gentle on the brakes at the same time. And driving a manual helps a lot!

KJ.

I think it depends a lot on your driving style and whether you drive a manual or an auto.

I changed my stock front pads for Bendix CTs at around the 30,000 km mark, but they were not even one third worn. I believe I would have got over 100,000 km out of them before they needed replacement. But they were just too squealy for my liking, so I changed them.

With my old TE Magna 3.0 manual I got over 150,000km from a set of front Bendix Ultimate pads (with DBA 4000 rotors), and they still had some meat on them.

I suspect I get exceptionally good mileage from front pads because I drive a manual and because of my driving style.

Put simply, because I use COAST (concentration, observation and anticipation creating space and time - my last prang of any type was nearly 30 years ago and I've done over 500,000 km in that time), I use the brakes much less often and much more 'softly' than 95% of other drivers. When I see a light change to red or stopped traffic a hundred or two hundred metres in front I lift off, down change a gear or two, and coast to a gentle stop, with hardly any brake pressure. Sometimes I don't even have to touch the brakes at all, and the lights change to green before I come to a stop. Meanwhile, nearly everyone else goes barrelling up to the red light or stopped line of traffic and slams their skids on at the last minute. And I reckon at least 95% of these drivers are driving autos not manuals. I notice this all the time - auto drivers tend to have two modes - hard on the go pedal or hard on the whoa pedal, with nothing in between. And because I concentrate and watch what is going on well ahead, I take pre-evasive action well before any sticky situation develops and I hardly ever get 'surprised' in such a way that I have to brake at all hard. I can only remember three times in 35 years of driving where I had to brake hard to avoid a prang.

Don't get me wrong, I'm no cardigan wearing snail (over 50 speeding tickets in the last 30 years but no prangs - speed kills - yeah, right!), it's just that if you keep your wits about you and employ COAST, you can still be a 'press on' driver and be gentle on the brakes at the same time. And driving a manual helps a lot!

KJ.

I just want to get an idea how long I have to organise something good, no use thinking about it when your car is on the hoist with no brakes left!

Hey KJ I bet you use your brakes a bit more now trying to pull up after unleashing the 183KW at the wheels!! :badgrin:

I just want to get an idea how long I have to organise something good, no use thinking about it when your car is on the hoist with no brakes left!

Hey KJ I bet you use your brakes a bit more now trying to pull up after unleashing the 183KW at the wheels!! :badgrin:

Fooz, just get a set of brembos mate, DBA 4000 rotors and then please yourself with brake pads - there's heaps of good ones around depending on how much performance/dust/noise you want.

Edit: Assuming your rims will clear the calipers.

I just had my 45000km service and Mits told me I have only used 30%. My car has had a very easy life!!!!!

Fooz, just get a set of brembos mate, DBA 4000 rotors and then please yourself with brake pads - there's heaps of good ones around depending on how much performance/dust/noise you want.

Edit: Assuming your rims will clear the calipers.

So where do I get Brembos at the right price? Been talking to AP gonna take the car to the QLD distributor when I get it back to check some options.

my pads lasted about 30,000ks

I kept getting crazy amounts of vibration if I attempted to brake from anything above 80kph.

Mitsubishi call it "brake raunch" and said that it was a normal thing.

I since changed all four pads and skimmed discs from a reputable garage which isnt mitsubishi.

I was going to post about this as it has happen to me for the first time today

might just get them changed next week

Brakes have not being done since I brought it

So where do I get Brembos at the right price? Been talking to AP gonna take the car to the QLD distributor when I get it back to check some options.

Keep an eye on evooz.net forums for sale section. See some go on there all the time, usually around $1000-$1500.

Keep an eye on evooz.net forums for sale section. See some go on there all the time, usually around $1000-$1500.



man that sounds cheap...is that each?

or for a set?

I just had my 45000km service and Mits told me I have only used 30%. My car has had a very easy life!!!!!

More evidence that a manual makes a big difference to brake pad life. As far as I know, Blue 380 is the only other manual 380 owner besides me on these forums.

KJ.

man that sounds cheap...is that each?

or for a set?

Set. All 4 usually. Some will come with discs, some won't.

Replaced front pads at 92000 but would have got at least another 10ooo from them. Hust done the 120 servovice at 122 and will require the rears at the 135 k service. this is a mixture of town and highway driving as well as a lot of towing

Bought my car at 35k.. now at 46k and still don't need doing. My mate bought his at 32k now at 44k and his needs doing.

Is there an easy way to tell how much left without taking a wheel off?

Mine replaced at 90K service; for the first time. Nothing wrong with them except I wanted better performance.

Bloody hell, looks like I'll sell the car before I get big brakes unless I just do it for the sake of it!

When you get the blower working you will soon need new brakes.

Definitely.

We've just clocked over 55k. I checked the brakes yday when we were getting the rims fitted (bit of a hassle with them-bit of guard cutting!!) and we havent even used 50% yet.

for a very good price on pads look here http://www.aussiemagna.net/forums/showthread.php?t=68876

show us the new wheels

I have one pic so far mate in Members Machines. There should be more up tonight.

i have done 175,000 on original front pads with 50% pad remaining

i have done 175,000 on original front pads with 50% pad remaining

TERRY,

I'm not calling BS, but there is something not quite right here.

That would make 350,000km from one set of stock front pads.

As others have suggested, this is bordering on impossible, especially in a place like Tassie.

Maybe you accidently put an extra 0 in your post and it should be 17,500km not 175,000km?

According to your profile you drive an automatic, and I believe it's much harder to get good brake mileage from an auto than it is from a manual.

Your profile also says you drive a Magna, but with the 6G75 motor.

So is it a 380 or a Magna?

Or do you have a sleeper with the first 6G75 transplant into a Magna?

KJ.

More evidence that a manual makes a big difference to brake pad life. As far as I know, Blue 380 is the only other manual 380 owner besides me on these forums.

KJ.

OK I will wave the flag for the slush boxes. My vehicle has done over 70000k and I think that the pads are the originals. I am about to change pads very soon though. I also back off and cruise up to red lights. This saves heaps on brakes and fuel as any forward momentum maintained will save heaps in fuel. The auto used properly will actually be more economical than the manual in coast mode as it will shut down the fuel to 0.01 l/100km when you back off the throttle altogether and drop down gears before stopping.

cant comment on this issue as ive only just done over 15,000km. but im looking into evo 10 brembos.

its is a 380 vrx. Previous owner drove adelaide to darwin couple of times a month and thats how the kays got racked up. I got car with 160k kms. Im not lying its fair dinkum, i didnt believe it myself but its true

Terry,

Please accept my apologies for questioning your claim.

Driving Adelaide to Darwin and back a few times would explain high mileage and very low pad wear.

KJ.

I have had the pads checked have 50% wear at 60k

I think we have all concluded from this that 380 pads never wear out! lol

Looks like I have to do the brakes sooner coz if I wait for the pads to wear out, my 380 will be like a 1st Gen now & all you guys will be floating around in the latest Mitsi Hovermobiles lol

Sounds like a good endorsement of 380 reliability as well as pad life.....:)

Had the Pads replaced today with Bendix General CT's. Not from wear, just to get rid of that Squeal from what I think is dust build Up. Had the Discs Machined as they were glazing. Stop great now. No squeal yet.
Didn't look at the Originals.

62000 kms and id say about 60% worn very impressed

I have just had my 75000km service and they said there were 6mm left on the brake pads. They said that this should be fine until the next service at 90000km. I thought they may have needed replacing because my steering vibrates alot when braking from 110km when going down hill.

This only happens when coming down through the Adelaide hills heading towards the tollgate (alot of braking happens trying to keep at the speed limit). Does this mean my discs are warped?

braedz Its called brake raunch

happens from over 80kms

mitsi said its common but many have said it dissipates or goes away completely with a disc machining or replacing the discs completely

its a real shame that QFM aren't making pads for the 380. GCT's are good for what they are, but the QFM pads at the same price are just a steal.

about 30% wear at 45000km. Lots of squeal from the front when cold, funnily enough not a problem at the moment with our 40 degree days. Always had the same problem with 3rd generation Magna. Love the "get the brakes replaced comments mate" comments from time to time.

its a real shame that QFM aren't making pads for the 380. GCT's are good for what they are, but the QFM pads at the same price are just a steal.

QFM are making pads for the 380 from late december or january. They are waiting on the backing plates apparently. I have just had GCT's fitted to mine front and rear and will probably get rid of the fronts and stick some QFM's in when they come on line. Less likely to fade and have a better operating temperature range than the GCT's. I think the original pads on the 380 you just check every 100,000km and change the rotors lol!

QFM are making pads for the 380 from late december or january.

Sounds like a good time for an upgrade & new rotors. My brake squeel when cold is getting worse & really ****ting me!

Sounds like a good time for an upgrade & new rotors. My brake squeel when cold is getting worse & really ****ting me!

I'll second that.
Queuing to leave underground car park last night after seeing 'Parky' I felt emabaressed with the noise.
Roared upto 60 and hit the brakes to warm them up and lose that squeal!!:eeek:

Hey Chris do the red front calipers contribute to the squeal?? Do they make a sound like "rrrriiiiiiiccccceeee". lol. I am a rude bugger I know, sorry mate couldnt resist the jibe.

Hey Chris do the red front calipers contribute to the squeal?? Do they make a sound like "rrrriiiiiiiccccceeee". lol. I am a rude bugger I know, sorry mate couldnt resist the jibe.
Only 'squeals' of envy from other drivers LOL

QFM are making pads for the 380 from late december or january. They are waiting on the backing plates apparently. I have just had GCT's fitted to mine front and rear and will probably get rid of the fronts and stick some QFM's in when they come on line. Less likely to fade and have a better operating temperature range than the GCT's. I think the original pads on the 380 you just check every 100,000km and change the rotors lol!

That's only a month or two away.

I'd be interested in a group buy, at least for a set of fronts.
If we can get enough numbers we should be able to swing a deal with QFM.

KJ.

That's only a month or two away.

I'd be interested in a group buy, at least for a set of fronts.
If we can get enough numbers we should be able to swing a deal with QFM.

KJ.

I'd go a full set of front & rears!

Just be careful as apparently they do make a set of pads for the 380 already but they are not the good ones. I only found out that they were doing them for the 380 as I was in my brake place getting the GCT's on (they don't reckon they are that flash and that they are old technology now!! I dont notice much difference with them either. A bit underawed) The brake fella was chatting to me about the QFM's and that they were much better. He then looked them up and nil find (bugger) for a 380. We were still chatting when who should call him but QFM!! Not missing an opportunity he hit them up about them, hence the inside info. Don't know a part number or anything.

I got my discs machined last Thursday due to having "Brake Raunch". It only cost me $88 for the machining, is that a pretty good price?

Also, the machining 100% fixed the brake raunch issue and brake fade is now minimal :)

Did you take the discs off yourself or were they machined on the vehicle?

Did you take the discs off yourself or were they machined on the vehicle?

They were machined on the vehicle

That's a pretty good price then. I paid at least $30 (Probably $50) to get two machined OFF the vehicle. They wanted 100 to do it on the car.

Does anyone know if the QFM pads are available yet?

I took the 380 out for a blast today over Mt Glorious & by the time I was half way down the other side I was experiencing brake fade which I haven't had before. Pretty hot day so probably didn't help.

Also noticed when the brakes were hot I had something that sounded like a flat spot on my front tyres as I slowed (there are no flat spots) which disappeared when they cooled down. What would this be??????

Also noticed when the brakes were hot I had something that sounded like a flat spot on my front tyres as I slowed

Rotor warp/expanding during heat? (if you're talking about a woosh-woosh sound and non-linear stopping action, if that makes sense?)

:)

Rotor warp/expanding during heat? (if you're talking about a woosh-woosh sound and non-linear stopping action, if that makes sense?)

:)

No was more like running over evenly spaced grooves in the road, sorta thud thud thud thud thud if that makes sense?

Brake raunch Fooz

sounds and feels like a flat spot except its only happening on braking

Mitsi said "its NORMAL":nuts:

found out I have GCT pads on mine and are not OEM

SO much Frigging DUST

Brake raunch Fooz

sounds and feels like a flat spot except its only happening on braking

Mitsi said "its NORMAL":nuts:

found out I have GCT pads on mine and are not OEM

SO much Frigging DUST

:stoopid:

Fooz, if you're gonna do that sort of driving mate you really need a set of brakes that are up to the job. Otherwise you're just going to hurt yoruself or your car, or both.

Thanks guys.

Have been waiting for these QFM pads & looking at upgrading rotors at the same time, thats why my original question was are they available yet?

Getting sick of the brake squeel too which is a problem with the stock pads.

Fooz I reckon an upgrade to either the brembos of an EVO, PBRs, or K-sports if they fit

I want bigger stoppers but I have no money to get them

Thanks guys.

Have been waiting for these QFM pads & looking at upgrading rotors at the same time, thats why my original question was are they available yet?

Getting sick of the brake squeel too which is a problem with the stock pads.

Brembo or Mitsu 6 pots from the TMR 380. AP make a 6 pot kit for late model Evos which would probably fit.

Brembo or Mitsu 6 pots from the TMR 380. AP make a 6 pot kit for late model Evos which would probably fit.

Think the TMRs are about $10k or something stupid.

The agents for AP here say that the 380 would be fine with a better set of rotors with decent pads & fluid. If this is true I would rather spend $1K than $10K.

Think the TMRs are about $10k or something stupid.

The agents for AP here say that the 380 would be fine with a better set of rotors with decent pads & fluid. If this is true I would rather spend $1K than $10K.

Yeah, $10k is stupid, don't get me wrong.

Just remember it's a 1700kg car with a lot of power and it builds speed quickly. You will need much bigger brakes than standard with at least 4 pot front. I would try and source a set of 4 pot Brembos from an Evo and get some DBA 4000 slotted rotors with some Bendix or QFM pads. Probably cost about $2k, but well worth it.

maybe look at FPV brembos too

plenty on Fleabay

Fooz,

As a temporary measure I reckon you should fit a set of Bendix Ultimates, at least on the front. I fitted Bendix General CTs a year ago now and that got rid of the squeal and they aren't at all dusty. But the GCTs probably aren't up to speed for regular 'spirited' driving (which I don't do all that often so the GCTs are OK for me) and the Ulimates would be better for you. Harder compound, less fade, little or no squeal, but a bit dusty. Dunno why Mecha reckons his GCTs are dusty, maybe he has Ultimates instead?

Megatron still has them for $110 a set, see this thread:

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1188867&highlight=bendix+ultimate#post1188867

I too would like to know if QFM have released decent pads (HPX??) for the 380 yet.

KJ.

Fooz,

As a temporary measure I reckon you should fit a set of Bendix Ultimates, at least on the front. I fitted Bendix General CTs a year ago now and that got rid of the squeal and they aren't at all dusty. But the GCTs probably aren't up to speed for regular 'spirited' driving (which I don't do all that often so the GCTs are OK for me) and the Ulimates would be better for you. Harder compound, less fade, little or no squeal, but a bit dusty. Dunno why Mecha reckons his GCTs are dusty, maybe he has Ultimates instead?

Megatron still has them for $110 a set, see this thread:

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1188867&highlight=bendix+ultimate#post1188867

I too would like to know if QFM have released decent pads (HPX??) for the 380 yet.

KJ.

I think Knotched runs the Ultimates & isn't entirely happy.

Dunno, I will sus my options before doing anything.

I fitted GCTs to the front a year ago, but I'm thinking of switching to Ultimates.

From all reports the Ultimates fade a lot less than the GCTs.

I'm fairly happy with the GCTs, OK for normal city driving, no squeal and very little brake dust. Just a little worried about fade when fanging it a bit, especially on a long downhill run. Haven't had the inclination to do so yet, but maybe in the future.

Had Ultimates on my old TE, good bite, little fade, slight squeal now and then, but lots of dust.

So question is, how do the Ulimates go on a 380 for squeal and dust? Not worried about wear, they'll probably last the life of the car anyway, and a fair chance I'll switch to QFM HPX pads if/when they ever release them for a 380.

KJ.

speaking of this,... can anyone give me an idea in whats involved in a break pad change does fluid have to be drained etc?

speaking of this,... can anyone give me an idea in whats involved in a break pad change does fluid have to be drained etc?

:roll:.... :slap: If you dont know that the fluid doesnt have to be drained,then one must question are you up for changing the BRAKE pads...

It usually involves undoing two bolts on the caliper.....removing old pads,pushing piston back to accomadate new pads,insert new pads....do up caliper.....well,the pad carrier,since technically you aren't taking the whole caliper off.

I fitted GCTs to the front a year ago, but I'm thinking of switching to Ultimates.

From all reports the Ultimates fade a lot less than the GCTs.

I'm fairly happy with the GCTs, OK for normal city driving, no squeal and very little brake dust. Just a little worried about fade when fanging it a bit, especially on a long downhill run. Haven't had the inclination to do so yet, but maybe in the future.

Had Ultimates on my old TE, good bite, little fade, slight squeal now and then, but lots of dust.

So question is, how do the Ulimates go on a 380 for squeal and dust? Not worried about wear, they'll probably last the life of the car anyway, and a fair chance I'll switch to QFM HPX pads if/when they ever release them for a 380.

KJ.

KJ PM Knotched, I'm sure he is running the Ultimates. You may hear from him soon anyway if he reads this.

my manual TH had front 380 calipers fitted with DBA 4000 wiper rotors using Bendix ultimate pads and good brake fluid with NO problems at all

i did alot of spirited driving/braking from 160 down to 80, heavy braking over 3km downhill with no brake shudder (apart from the slots) or fade

with all my pads i have used on the TH they have never lasted more than 20000km, maybe i just brake too much/heavily, but 85% or my driving is done in the city

ppl that are having problems with brake fade should also consider upgrading/replacing their fluids more regularly (every year at a minimum)


heaps and heaps of dust from the ultimates

When I did some research for finding bigger and better brake set-up for our 380 (we cant do much due to the rims), we were told to upgrade to better brake fluid, braided lines (from memory they were approx $76 per line), better rotors (was suggested to use the DBA 4000 or 5000) and a better pad (was told to stay away from the Bendix range and spend a little bit more on a more upmarket set).

Fooz I think I may have sent info in a PM a little while back, I cant remember.

When I did some research for finding bigger and better brake set-up for our 380 (we cant do much due to the rims), we were told to upgrade to better brake fluid, braided lines (from memory they were approx $76 per line), better rotors (was suggested to use the DBA 4000 or 5000) and a better pad (was told to stay away from the Bendix range and spend a little bit more on a more upmarket set).

Fooz I think I may have sent info in a PM a little while back, I cant remember.

Yeah I think you did, so was that the final outcome from those guys down the coast you went & saw? ie the recommended setup for the 380 without spending $10k?

Thats pretty much it. That was the last I heard from them about the matter anyway.

KJ PM Knotched, I'm sure he is running the Ultimates. You may hear from him soon anyway if he reads this.

Err... huh? :lurk:

OK.

Ultimates have been good. Haven't really been tested under a full emergency stop yet. They feel like they might need some heat in them for that. Having said that, I've never felt I had a lack of stopping power like I did wth the originals.
Otherwise good feel but lots of dust and a small squeak when releasing/applying at slow speeds.

More evidence that a manual makes a big difference to brake pad life.

KJ.

i'd rather replace pads than replace a gearbox.

:roll:.... :slap: If you dont know that the fluid doesnt have to be drained,then one must question are you up for changing the BRAKE pads...

It usually involves undoing two bolts on the caliper.....removing old pads,pushing piston back to accomadate new pads,insert new pads....do up caliper.....well,the pad carrier,since technically you aren't taking the whole caliper off.

thats what i figured... it was dad that confused me about something to do with fluid lol... damn old farts.

thats what i figured... it was dad that confused me about something to do with fluid lol... damn old farts.

Careful Cass, one of the admins here is Ol' Fart!

KJ.

Mine were completely worn out after 35000k's of mostly city driving.

i'd rather replace pads than replace a gearbox.

I think you missed my point.

35+ years of driving and observing and it's obvious to me that auto drivers brake a lot more than I do, something like four times as often/much. Admittedly not hard braking most of the time, but enough to make a difference to pad wear. And 200,000k in my old TE manual and one pad change with never a hint of a problem with the gearbox.

It's not just about manual v auto though, a lot of it is about using COAST and not needing to use the brakes much if you just take note of what is happening on the road several hundred metres in front of you and not just 2 or 3 car lengths ahead.

KJ.

manual should always need less brake use due to engine braking particularly down hills...i

Unless it's a company or rental car of course.....:)

What is the approx cost of DBA 4000 slotted rotors for the fronts

I have had the pads checked have 50% wear at 60k

Ditto

Most people will be getting their discs machined before they replace the pads.

I think I will just upgrade but I think my pads have being replaced before I got the car

I haven't got McHenry's PM anymore but I think the go for a 380 street performance machine is DBA 4000 series slotted rotors alround, stainless braided brake lines, with I think they quoted Brembo brake fluid & the QFM brake pads.

I think this is the way I will go once I get some time to organise but in the meantime I will ring the brake guys down the coast to confirm.

I found the PM I sent you Fooz...

They said that the 380 brake set up is the bigger than Ford or Holden and shouldnt need much more than a decent pad (no Bendix), braided lines and a REALLY good brake fluid (their opinion was Brembo). They said to use the ceramic hawk pads because of having chrome wheels (less brake dust), but said if your not to worried about it then use Ferodo.

I found the PM I sent you Fooz...

They said that the 380 brake set up is the bigger than Ford or Holden and shouldnt need much more than a decent pad (no Bendix), braided lines and a REALLY good brake fluid (their opinion was Brembo). They said to use the ceramic hawk pads because of having chrome wheels (less brake dust), but said if your not to worried about it then use Ferodo.

Ok cool, well I was close except for the pads although I think you did mention QFM in one of the PM's.

Today I decided to put the 6 and 4 pot brakes from TMR onto mine.

I just like the way they look.

Today I decided to put the 6 and 4 pot brakes from TMR onto mine.

I just like the way they look.


thats going to cost.......??

thats going to cost.......??


About $5300

About $5300

for that price you may as well get a bigger and better ksport package...

About $5300
I thought the TMR brakes were about $10K??

for that price you may as well get a bigger and better ksport package...
..... ?? I didn't think K-Sport did a kit for the 380 & how much cheaper are we talking here??

I thought the TMR brakes were about $10K??




10k is including the suspension...and i dont want a hard ride....or aircraft braided hydraulic lines etc.

Just want big red calipers and big disks...:)


.

10k is including the suspension...and i dont want a hard ride....or aircraft braided hydraulic lines etc.

Just want big red calipers and big disks...:)


.

Ok well that makes them sound more attractive, so is $5300 fitted or supply only?

Ok well that makes them sound more attractive, so is $5300 fitted or supply only?

Forgot to ask....damn it


You know the deal Fooz, it's probably not including GST, not fitted and not red...:happy:

Forgot to ask....damn it


You know the deal Fooz, it's probably not including GST, not fitted and not red...:happy:

well let me know when you do find out, I might be interested.

$5300?! You can source a near new set of 4 pot brembos off an Evo with brand new DBA4000 rotors and DS2500 pads fitted for less than half that!

$5300?! You can source a near new set of 4 pot brembos off an Evo with brand new DBA4000 rotors and DS2500 pads fitted for less than half that!

True but this is an idiot proof straight bolt up. The evo fronts would probably be ok but the rears would be a problem.

No doubt they'll be good brakes, but god damn that's a lot of money.

$5300?! You can source a near new set of 4 pot brembos off an Evo with brand new DBA4000 rotors and DS2500 pads fitted for less than half that!



hmmm...think I'll have to look into that option...


(TMR just rang me with an up to date price of $15025 fitted)....:eek2:


Apparently they need to be specially made now.

hmmm...think I'll have to look into that option...


(TMR just rang me with an up to date price of $15025 fitted)....:eek2:


Apparently they need to be specially made now.

Holy Shit! :eek2:

I dont know how anyone could justify spending that much on brakes!

I am thinking of just getting some slotted rotors off of Ebay, they should do the job fine I reckon.

yeah I am going to do the same as you braedz I will get it done on the 75k km service

Looks like Brembos might be worth a look alright.

About $50 for all 4 brembos......

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BRAKE-CALIPERS-COVER-FORD-FPV-FALCON-V8-F6-UTE-AU-BF-BA_W0QQitemZ160389112256QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_ Parts_Accessories?hash=item2557efa1c0

So cheap.

About $50 for all 4 brembos......

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BRAKE-CALIPERS-COVER-FORD-FPV-FALCON-V8-F6-UTE-AU-BF-BA_W0QQitemZ160389112256QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_ Parts_Accessories?hash=item2557efa1c0

So cheap.

50$ is 50$ towards the more expensive stuff that might actually stop ur car faster instead of something that looks like it will. plus covers im sure would look fake if closely inspected:P

Silly question...

Just wondering how I can tell the difference between brake raunch and my brake pads needing to be replaced?

I got my discs machined not too long ago and I am starting have the brake raunch issue again.

My car has done around 92000km, would my brake pads needs to be replaced?

ok guys after pushing my car very hard yesterday i got spongey brakes. so im after a high quility brake fluid and pads. any suggestions.

ok guys after pushing my car very hard yesterday i got spongey brakes. so im after a high quility brake fluid and pads. any suggestions.

I'm getting Brembo fluid for mine plus the DBA 4000 series 6x6 wiper slot rotors & ADR approved braided lines. Pads are a problem as not many people make them for the 380, Bendix ultimates if you want good stopping with lots of dust or CT's with a bit less performance & no dust. I'm thinking I might just go the CT's, I hate cleaning my wheels lol

I'm getting Brembo fluid for mine plus the DBA 4000 series 6x6 wiper slot rotors & ADR approved braided lines. Pads are a problem as not many people make them for the 380, Bendix ultimates if you want good stopping with lots of dust or CT's with a bit less performance & no dust. I'm thinking I might just go the CT's, I hate cleaning my wheels lol

were are you getting the fluid from. ive had a look at it on there site. also what grade you getting.

were are you getting the fluid from. ive had a look at it on there site. also what grade you getting.

I was thing the LCF600, not sure where to get it, maybe ebay?

How much do we need to flush the system & refill anyway???

Silly question...


My car has done around 92000km, would my brake pads needs to be replaced?

I did mine with the 90 thousand major service and they were worn but still had abit on there. Id say around now would be the time but then again everyones driving patterns are different...

I was thing the LCF600, not sure where to get it, maybe ebay?

How much do we need to flush the system & refill anyway???

depends how good of a flush you want to do, i would use about 1.5L

depends how good of a flush you want to do, i would use about 1.5L

I think a very good flush would be the go especially if you are going to the expense of Brembo fluid for the extra performance. 1.5L is getting expensive with the Brembo fluid though.

I'm getting Brembo fluid for mine plus the DBA 4000 series 6x6 wiper slot rotors & ADR approved braided lines. Pads are a problem as not many people make them for the 380, Bendix ultimates if you want good stopping with lots of dust or CT's with a bit less performance & no dust. I'm thinking I might just go the CT's, I hate cleaning my wheels lol


RPW advertise Brembo's as a performance enhancement for 380's, "special order"...:)

RPW advertise Brembo's as a performance enhancement for 380's, "special order"...:)

Half of what RPW advertise doesn't exist, it is just a hypothetical possibility :nuts:

I think a very good flush would be the go especially if you are going to the expense of Brembo fluid for the extra performance. 1.5L is getting expensive with the Brembo fluid though.


sure is, unless you are tracking your car its going to be highly unlikely you will be cooking your brake fluid

you are better off changing it more regularly with cheaper fluid IMO

the reason i want a high quility fluid is im planning on doing some track work and i drive pretty hard in the hills.

Does anybody know if any of the EBD "stuff" pads fit the 380? I am interested in their new green compound.

the reason i want a high quility fluid is im planning on doing some track work and i drive pretty hard in the hills.

You certainly do lol, I couldnt keep up with you!

My brakes were getting fairly ordinary on the cruise, thats why didnt do the rest of the stages. Need to get some slotted rotors and some top quality brake pads...

the reason i want a high quility fluid is im planning on doing some track work and i drive pretty hard in the hills.


well you have no choice but getting good fluid :eeek:

Ok I'm really over the 380 brake squeel now.

Have been talking to the QLD agents for V-Sport about new brakes. Looking at $7000 for a full brake upgrade if you want serious braking although for what I want (performance street setup) this is their recommendation, price TBA :-

1/ DBA Series 4000 6x6 Wiper Slot Rotors
2/ Hawk Ceramic Pads (None available for the 380 but they cut down a bigger set for $60 per pair)
3/ Stainless Braided ADR Compliant Lines
4/ Complete Flush with Brembo LCF 600 Fluid (2 Bottles required - approx 750ml)

They are getting back to me with a price for the lot.

Thats fairly expensive. You would want to hope it brakes pretty damn well!

Thats fairly expensive. You would want to hope it brakes pretty damn well!

The $7k option would be some pretty big brakes along the lines of the TMR380 but a heap cheaper.

I'm not going for that but thinking the rest should be between $1500 & $2000 fitted.

Wow and I thought my rotor and pad upgrade was going to be AWESOME

that is just SUPER

but for 7K I reckon you could get AP racing setup

Wow and I thought my rotor and pad upgrade was going to be AWESOME

that is just SUPER

but for 7K I reckon you could get AP racing setup

I think you are all misunderstanding my quote. $7k is NOT for the equipment I listed.

That makes sense now. I read your post wrong. That price sounds pretty reasonable...

yeah I misread the post

I wonder how I can coax the Mrs to pay for SS braid lines

considering going with new front rotors DBA 4K slotted and bendix ultimate pads plus the rears staying with new GCTs

yeah I misread the post

I wonder how I can coax the Mrs to pay for SS braid lines

considering going with new front rotors DBA 4K slotted and bendix ultimate pads plus the rears staying with new GCTs

Good luck with that!! I don't want the brake dust so don't want Ultimates, V-Sport guy said the CT's aren't that good for performance & the Hawks would crap all over them & have low dust due to the ceramic technology.

Well car is washed weekly so dust wont be a problem

I will probably get braided lines when it comes time for a fluid change and definitely some slotted rotors.

Does anybody know if any of the EBC pads fit the 380? I am thinking either Green Stuff or Red Stuff.

I've heard a lot of good things about the new Red Stuff pad formula and will be putting them on my Falcon next time and would like to probably do the same on the 380.

A setup like that on the standard brakes which aren't that bad will be more than fine for on the street and on spirited drives/mountain work when needed.

To those that have break squeal, I had my car serviced yesterday where they did a flush/replace of the brake fluid. Normally my brakes squeal pretty bad, but after yesterday, the squeal is gone...

Maybe it is the brake fluid that is causing issues?

Can't see how brake fluid would cause squeal. It's not really possible.

Mine do squeal a bit but not so bad I care to change anything until it's needed. Then I'd like to go better pads/rotors/lines/fluid.

:stoopid:

Thats what I thought...

Unless that touched something else they didnt tell me about.

That can happen too. Or you may find it will soon be as noisy as ever!

I find my new ultimates squeal under VERY light braking but a little more pressure and they are gone LATE BRAKING FTW

Still Dusty as hell but I love it

brake squeal is also movement on the pad between the rotor and there is some grease that can be applied to stop the squeal 90% of the time

Also I was talking to my mech who still was amazed at the brake pad wear. The pads were OE and still had approx half the pad to wear he though they had being replaced but was surprised when he removed them to be OE

I still have them as he said if I need to change just to change them back to those LOL

I just need to have a spirited run through the Nasho during the week to give em a full work out

<---- Brembo's FTW :woot:

Evo 7 Brembo calipers F&R, DBA 4000 rotors, Lucas TRW pads, Braded lines, Nulon Super Dot 4 fluid.

Seriously, before you go spending $7k on brakes try driving a car fitted with Brembo's.
So much more confidence inspiring. It's not all about ultimate stopping ability either, the Brembo's are much more progressive, easier to modulate braking pressure.

The Magna needed a 3.7mm spacer to centre the rear disks. Not sure about the 380.

The Brembo's owe me about $1750 all up. Money well spent :)

<---- Brembo's FTW :woot:

Evo 7 Brembo calipers F&R, DBA 4000 rotors, Lucas TRW pads, Braded lines, Nulon Super Dot 4 fluid.

Seriously, before you go spending $7k on brakes try driving a car fitted with Brembo's.
So much more confidence inspiring. It's not all about ultimate stopping ability either, the Brembo's are much more progressive, easier to modulate braking pressure.

The Magna needed a 3.7mm spacer to centre the rear disks. Not sure about the 380.

The Brembo's owe me about $1750 all up. Money well spent :)


The $7k option would be some pretty big brakes along the lines of the TMR380 but a heap cheaper.

I'm not going for that but thinking the rest should be between $1500 & $2000 fitted.

I think that had been answered before

This is what I have ordered this week through the QLD V-Sport Dealer.

4 x DBA 4000 6x6 wiper slot rotors
4 x Hawk Ceramic pads (Cut down to fit the 380)
4 x Stainless braided brake lines (Same as the TMR's, these guys made them)
Flush with Brembo LCF600 brake fluid
They will also remove the backing plates off the front rotors for extra cooling

The installed price with be between $1800 - $1900

This is what I have ordered this week through the QLD V-Sport Dealer.

4 x DBA 4000 6x6 wiper slot rotors
4 x Hawk Ceramic pads (Cut down to fit the 380)
4 x Stainless braided brake lines (Same as TMRas these guys made them)
Flush with Brembo LCF600 brake fluid
They will also remove the backing plates off the front rotors for extra cooling

The installed price with be between $1800 - $1900

How big are the rotors? Stock size and still stock calipers? What size are they? That setup, even on standard size rotors and standard twin pot calipers should make a HEAP of difference over stock.

How big are the rotors? Stock size and still stock calipers? What size are they? That setup, even on standard size rotors and standard twin pot calipers should make a HEAP of difference over stock.

Yep they are stock size & stock calipers. The rotors are 294mm front & 301mm rear. Pads work out to be 189 x 61mm front & 114 x 59mm rear.

Not quite a Brembo setup but cost effective & I'm not going to track the car so as long as it can do Mt Nebo/Mt Glorious with a bit of stick & no brake fade I will be happy :happy:

you should be more than happy with it

New brake setup getting fitted this Friday, will let you know how they perform & probably get some pics up in my ride section.

I've done a few Km's now on the new brake setup but still haven't had a chance to give them a real workout yet but I thought I'd post some prelimanary comments. (They came in under budget at $1777.20)

Observation 1 - Reversing out of the driveway cold I'm flatout stopping the car rolling backwards lol (Don't panic, see observation 2)
Observation 2 - Gentle braking into the first corner from home just to get a little heat into them sees them pretty well equilelent to the stock 380 brakes.
Observation 3 - Any heavier braking than the above sees them just get grippier & grippier.

With a new set of rubber & some nice windy stuff I can see these brakes being pretty shit hot! (No brake squeel at all & no noticable dust so far)

Yeah I have a similar issue Fooz with the Ultimates as soon as I get some heat into the brakes though very AWESOME

We I have had enough of my shitty brake pads...

Brakes get done tomorrow. Bendix HD up front with GCT rears. I havnt got the slotted rotors yet, but plan on getting them soon :)

Have any of you guys heard of the Street, Road, Track pads from bendix?

I think the SRT are a bit overkill for just driving the 380 around town if that's all you'll be doing. Also, I would change rotors now if you plan on doing it soon. If you're changing the pads, do them at the same time.

I will probably get the rotors when I receive my tax return. My brake pads needed to get done asap because of some issues braking on the freeway. I do a lot of freeway travel.

how long do the rear pads last compared to the fronts? I am going to change my fronts to Bendix GCTs - they don't need to be changed - but I am sick of the squealing noise. Was planning to just leave the rears. Now at 50k. Or should I change the rear pads at the same time?

how long do the rear pads last compared to the fronts? I am going to change my fronts to Bendix GCTs - they don't need to be changed - but I am sick of the squealing noise. Was planning to just leave the rears. Now at 50k. Or should I change the rear pads at the same time?

No need to change the rears, they will probably last the life of the car. The fronts do 90% of the braking on a 380. Same with a Magna, the original rears on my old TE at 206,xxx km were still less than half worn.
My 380 rears have never squealed, but the stock fronts squealed like mad.
I put GCTs on the front about two years ago, and then QFM HPX about six months ago. The GCTs are quiet and dust free, but so are the HPX and they are much better pads. Much better bite, feel and fade resistance. Well worth the $50 or so extra over the GCTs.