Just had the extractors from RPW fitted on saturday and after travelling 200km since I now have the check engine light on my car. Has any1 had the extractors fitted and not received this or it just something i have to live with???

CC,

Did you reconnect all four O2 sensors?

Did you add spacers for the rear two sensors? According to RPW these now come with the 380 extractor kit.

If you did both of these things, there shouldn't be a problem, and all you need do to get rid of the CEL is disconnect the negative battery terminal for five minutes or so then reconnect it. You'll then need to reset your clock and radio pre-sets, no biggie. You'll lose any trip computer data but so what, same as resetting it anyway.

KJ.

Sounds like he hasn't or RPW have got it wrong.

Hi KJ,

All four 02 sensors have been reconnected with the extenders included with the extractors being added for the rear two sensors.

Do you know what the CEL codes are??

While I was talking to East Coast Customs, they said that an ECU with such stringent perimeters can have this problem after a few hundred kms (usually between 200-600). I cant remember the EXACT reason to this tho.

While I was talking to East Coast Customs, they said that an ECU with such stringent perimeters can have this problem after a few hundred kms (usually between 200-600). I cant remember the EXACT reason to this tho.

Sorry Matt, but can't resist!

Yep, the 380 ECU comes in one size only!

(I think you meant parameters)

KJ

Sorry Matt, but can't resist!

Yep, the 380 ECU comes in one size only!

(I think you meant parameters)

KJ
DAMMIT.....Oh well, I guess thats why im a mine site worker...

Do you know what the CEL codes are??

how do I check the CEL codes?

never mind.

These things definitely look like a good idea....might have to get one of these.

These things definitely look like a good idea....might have to get one of these.

Yep if you are going any drastic mods you'll need one unless you want to run to Mitsubishi continuously checking codes & handing over your hard earned cash. Mine has helped me a lot to sort all my little problems.

Example - Driving home early this morning CEL comes on, hmmmm plug in scanner. Two codes, Rich off Idle bank 1 & Bank 2. I already know I have to get these AFR's touched up but without the scanner it could have been anything & would leave you guessing.

Back to the original subject, CC what did the RPW spacers look like? Rough length & did they have a restrictive hole in the end? It took me nearly a year of mucking round with mine before I discovered the ultimate fix, just wondering if RPW got the design wrong when informed by KJ & MYTS about theirs.

RPW supplied 2 threaded bolts with a 4mm choke at one end that presumably screwed into the rear 2 o2 ports and then have the sensors screwed into the back of them. One was 40mm long, the other was 30mm long.
On a side not the 30mm one was rusted to hell, had to be rubbed back before installing.

RPW supplied 2 threaded bolts with a 4mm choke at one end that presumably screwed into the rear 2 o2 ports and then have the sensors screwed into the back of them. One was 40mm long, the other was 30mm long.
On a side not the 30mm one was rusted to hell, had to be rubbed back before installing.

The final ones I settled with which solved the problem were about 40mm. The 30mm one might not be enough & giving different O2 readings on bank 1 & 2 which could upset things.

I'd be getting a matching 40mm one & if you can get hold of a code scanner check the CEL code which will give an indication to the problem.

I might have the length wrong but there were deffinatley both different lengths.
Unfortunatley with no instructions or description of which extender was to go where it was a bit af a hope for the best install.
We will put the car up on stands on the weekend and try getting a scanner, swapping the extenders around if possible and ultimatley sourcing a new extender.

I might have the length wrong but there were deffinatley both different lengths.

I started with about 20mm then 40mm then the restrictive hole which has proven successful.

Get one to match the other as you may find the tip of the O2 sensor on the short one is still too close to the exhaust stream & two differnt readings being seen by the ecu wouldn't help either.

Get one to match the other as you may find the tip of the O2 sensor on the short one is still too close to the exhaust stream.
Ok, i understand what your saying.
I will look into sourcing a new extender.
Any ideas on where to start looking for one?

Ok, i understand what your saying.
I will look into sourcing a new extender.
Any ideas on where to start looking for one?

Here you go, buy a pair of these so they match http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Universal-O2-Sensor-Extender-Conversion-Adapter-OBD2_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQh ashZitem1c0be99dfcQQitemZ120458943996QQptZMotorsQ5 fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories ...... or ring RPW & get them to send you two more.

hey foozrcool do you know where the thread that delt with this issue is ,had photos and a lot of good info

hey foozrcool do you know where the thread that delt with this issue is ,had photos and a lot of good info

You mean this one? http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67072&referrerid=7815

I had a trawl though that thread and found some good info but sometimes its easier and faster just to pose the question and be sure rather than hope you interpreted it correctly.

Fooz, in the photos you showed there are sensors onthe lower extractors just after the 3 - 1 join. Were these o2 ports spaced on your car?
Also there is a picture of 2 o2 Ports behind the primary Cat, were these ports spaced?

I have a suspicion that this is where the extenders were placed on the wrong sections on CC's car.

So from my observations of CC's extractors and your pictures there are 6 o2 sensors?
1 sensor in the center port in each bank of 3 (on cc's extractors) Not Extended?
1 sensor just after the 3-1 weld on each bank (on cc's extractors) Extended?
2 sensors after the primart Cat (Fooz's photo) Extended?

Please confirm.

Fooz, in the photos you showed there are sensors onthe lower extractors just after the 3 - 1 join. Were these o2 ports spaced on your car?

No do not put the spacers on these ones.


Also there is a picture of 2 o2 Ports behind the primary Cat, were these ports spaced?

Yes these are where you install the O2 extender/spacers.


So from my observations of CC's extractors and your pictures there are 6 o2 sensors?
1 sensor in the center port in each bank of 3 (on cc's extractors) Not Extended?
1 sensor just after the 3-1 weld on each bank (on cc's extractors) Extended?
2 sensors after the primart Cat (Fooz's photo) Extended?

Please confirm.

No there are only 4 O2 sensors.

The original ones on the top of the engine pipes before the precats go in the 3 to 1 collectors on the extractors. These tell the ecu if the engine is running rich or lean & help the ecu to compensate. (Do not space)

The original ones after the precats on the engine pipes are relocated behind the under car main cat. These measure the emmissions of the engine hence the CEL as the precats are removed. (These must have the spacers to stop the CEL appearing)

If there are more O2 bungs on the extractors you have I would bung them off. It probably doesn't matter if you use the top ones or the ones in the collectors as they will still measure the AFR straight from the engine. Having said that placing them in the collectors as I have & also kj380 & mytsgt95 is a proven setup so I would recommend you do it that way.

never mind.

So....does that mean that the rear O2 sensors are essentially defeated?

(because, i reckon i can come up with a small electronic circuit to do that.)

I think it just needs to swing from 0.5 volts to 1 volt every 15 seconds or some such crap.

Think I have seen some circuits on the net and it costs about 5 bucks in parts...



Or you can just buy the thing and plug it in...:)


https://cart.jetkit.com/p-1520-o2-eliminator-76423017.aspx

The rear O2 sensors still work but meter less exhaust & emmissions because of the spacers.

Do you know of anyone that has tried this electronic device, especially on a 380? I'd rather stick to tried & tested but would do it if I could see it definitely did work on a 380.

never mind.

Only $15 so I might just get a couple anyway for the hell of it.

Will let you know.


If you think about it all yours is doing is taking it out of the exhaust stream, so reporting a good to go voltage constantly.

You should be able to plug the exhaust and have the O2 sensors not in the exhaust stream at all.

(which is what the eliminator does)

I'll order a couple and wack them on and let you know....first i'll send them an email and get the correct one for the..err..."Galant"...LOL

It also has to simulate the O2 heater circuit otherwise that will throw a CEL too.

If it does work it will be easier to plug them into the existing loom than pissing around with extenders etc. If you have success I might grab a couple as I still very occasionaly get a heater circuit malfunction CEL from the water/methanol injection after giving it a hard time.

These things look like a really good idea....if they work.

never mind.

Used the OBD2 scanned today and got the error PO430 error - Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)

never mind.

Cleared the old cel and everything was running fine for a few weeks until a new cel apeared last night.....

P2097
Post Catalyst Fuel Trim Sys Too Rich Bank1

Would this be caused by the 02 sensors like the existing issue i had???

Cleared the old cel and everything was running fine for a few weeks until a new cel apeared last night.....

P2097
Post Catalyst Fuel Trim Sys Too Rich Bank1

Would this be caused by the 02 sensors like the existing issue i had???

Never seen that one before but if you are not getting a bank 2 code as well could be a faulty sensor, bad connection or incorrect wiring.

I have some CEL codes to do with fuel on the blower atm but just needs a tweak. They also come up on both banks which would be normal you would assume. The fuel all goes in the one place so should appear on both banks if it's legit.

first cel i got was PO430 error - Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)

2nd was P2097 Post Catalyst Fuel Trim Sys Too Rich Bank1

I have 2 different length rear 02 sensors for my extractors.

Think that i might just need to swap them around to resolve the issue???

never mind.

About six weeks ago my car threw a CEL, P2096 = Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 1.

No hint of any engine problems, running like a dream, so I cleared the CEL with my OBD2 scan tool.

About a week ago it threw another CEL, this time P2098 = Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 2.

Again I cleared the CEL with the scan tool.

So are these CELs telling me that my high flow 200cpi cat isn't doing enough (seeing as it's the only cat in the system now), or are they simply symptomatic of the relocated rear O2 sensors, even though I have spacers/extenders on them?

I'm guessing it's the second issue, and the O2 sensors are misreading the fuel trim, despite the extenders.

KJ.

About six weeks ago my car threw a CEL, P2096 = Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 1.

No hint of any engine problems, running like a dream, so I cleared the CEL with my OBD2 scan tool.

About a week ago it threw another CEL, this time P2098 = Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 2.

Again I cleared the CEL with the scan tool.

So are these CELs telling me that my high flow 200cpi cat isn't doing enough (seeing as it's the only cat in the system now), or are they simply symptomatic of the relocated rear O2 sensors, even though I have spacers/extenders on them?

I'm guessing it's the second issue, and the O2 sensors are misreading the fuel trim, despite the extenders.

KJ.

The fuel trim is read by the two front O2 sensors not the rear ones. I think you will find once you get your Exede on & tuned everything will be good.

The fuel trim is read by the two front O2 sensors not the rear ones. I think you will find once you get your Exede on & tuned everything will be good.

Just seem strange to me that I'm getting CELs saying I'm supposedly running too lean, when everything else tells me I'm probably running a bit too rich. The standard 380 tune is to run rich and my fuel economy has worsened a little over the last two months, from 11.4L/100k to 11.6. But as you say, once I get the Xede fitted and tuned these hassles should be fixed. Having some problems with Steve finding the time to squeeze me in, he's really busy with all sorts of pesky Magna owners wanting engine rebuilds & ECU reflashes!

KJ.

Just seem strange to me that I'm getting CELs saying I'm supposedly running too lean, when everything else tells me I'm probably running a bit too rich. The standard 380 tune is to run rich and my fuel economy has worsened a little over the last two months, from 11.4L/100k to 11.6. But as you say, once I get the Xede fitted and tuned these hassles should be fixed. Having some problems with Steve finding the time to squeeze me in, he's really busy with all sorts of pesky Magna owners wanting engine rebuilds & ECU reflashes!

KJ.

Yep I think you will be ok once tuned properly. I still haven't taken mine back for a tweak, I get 'too lean at idle' & 'too rich off idle' codes but I have the bigger injectors too. Just needs a bit more fine tuning.

Threw another CEL last night. Happened after a 'spirited' drive in the hills, left it for about two hours, then the CEL popped up on restart.

Two codes this time, first time I've ever had two codes on one CEL.

P0056 = HO2S Heater Control Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2

P0161 = O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 2

So both related to Bank 2 Sensor 2.

I'm guessing that Sensor 2 = the rear sensor, i.e. one of the two that have been relocated after the cat.

Reset/cleared the codes using the OBD 2 scanner tool, went for a short trip an hour later, and after about 5k the CEL came on again!

Checked with the scanner tool and the same two codes.

Another first for me, first time that a reset hasn't cleared the CEL semi-permanently.

No probs with how it runs or goes, other than I suspect it's running a bit richer than normal even for a stock 380 engine - slowly worsening fuel economy, smell of unburnt fuel from the exhaust now and then, and heavy carbon build up in and around the exhaust tips.

Still haven't had the Exede fitted, hoping this will fix these minor hassles.

Any ideas Fooz?

KJ.

Threw another CEL last night. Happened after a 'spirited' drive in the hills, left it for about two hours, then the CEL popped up on restart.

Two codes this time, first time I've ever had two codes on one CEL.

P0056 = HO2S Heater Control Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2

P0161 = O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 2

So both related to Bank 2 Sensor 2.

I'm guessing that Sensor 2 = the rear sensor, i.e. one of the two that have been relocated after the cat.

Reset/cleared the codes using the OBD 2 scanner tool, went for a short trip an hour later, and after about 5k the CEL came on again!

Checked with the scanner tool and the same two codes.

Another first for me, first time that a reset hasn't cleared the CEL semi-permanently.

No probs with how it runs or goes, other than I suspect it's running a bit richer than normal even for a stock 380 engine - slowly worsening fuel economy, smell of unburnt fuel from the exhaust now and then, and heavy carbon build up in and around the exhaust tips.

Still haven't had the Exede fitted, hoping this will fix these minor hassles.

Any ideas Fooz?

KJ.

Mate you think you have problems lol

I just checked my codes as I now just drive it & ignore the light coz I haven't been back to the tuners. It's probably been a few months since I have checked the codes & I have 11 of them!!

P0036 - HO2S 1/2 Heater CKT
P0056 - HO2S 2/2 Heater CKT
P0141 - O2S Heater CKT Malfunction 1/2
P0161 - O2S Heater CKT Malfunction 2/2
P0140 - O2S CKT No Activity Detected 1/2
P0160 - O2S CKT No Activity Detected 2/2
P0106 - MAP/BARO CKT RNG Performance
P2178 - Syst to Rich Off Idle Speed Bank 1
P2180 - Syst to Rich Off Idle Speed Bank 2
P2187 - Syst to Lean at Idle Speed Bank 1
P2189 - Syst to Lean at Idle Speed Bank 2

The car drives perfectly with a bucket load of power so I propose we look into how to get the dash apart to disable that stupid fn CEL!!! :badgrin:

my only cel that has ever came up (touches wood) is misfire detected. which im thinking is the knock sensor reacting to the cams.

Mate you think you have problems lol

I just checked my codes as I now just drive it & ignore the light coz I haven't been back to the tuners. It's probably been a few months since I have checked the codes & I have 11 of them!!

P0036 - HO2S 1/2 Heater CKT
P0056 - HO2S 2/2 Heater CKT
P0141 - O2S Heater CKT Malfunction 1/2
P0161 - O2S Heater CKT Malfunction 2/2
P0140 - O2S CKT No Activity Detected 1/2
P0160 - O2S CKT No Activity Detected 2/2
P0106 - MAP/BARO CKT RNG Performance
P2178 - Syst to Rich Off Idle Speed Bank 1
P2180 - Syst to Rich Off Idle Speed Bank 2
P2187 - Syst to Lean at Idle Speed Bank 1
P2189 - Syst to Lean at Idle Speed Bank 2

The car drives perfectly with a bucket load of power so I propose we look into how to get the dash apart to disable that stupid fn CEL!!! :badgrin:

Fair 'nuf Fooz, your full hand beats my measly pair!

Looks like I'll just have to put up with a permanent CEL until we figure out a way of removing the offending bulb (if it's as easy as that).

So far no-one has asked 'what's that funny amber symbol?', let alone the GF. But when the GF (who's a tree-hugger) finally spots it I'll have to make up some sort of a story, along the lines of 'minor mods are fooling with the over-sensitive ECU, nothing to worry about'. Can't really tell her about removing all three stock cats and replacing them with a single after market unit, she'd have a fit. She knows and cares nothing about cars and I intend to leave it that way.

KJ.

Fair 'nuf Fooz, your full hand beats my measly pair!

Looks like I'll just have to put up with a permanent CEL until we figure out a way of removing the offending bulb (if it's as easy as that).

So far no-one has asked 'what's that funny amber symbol?', let alone the GF. But when the GF (who's a tree-hugger) finally spots it I'll have to make up some sort of a story, along the lines of 'minor mods are fooling with the over-sensitive ECU, nothing to worry about'. Can't really tell her about removing all three stock cats and replacing them with a single after market unit, she'd have a fit. She knows and cares nothing about cars and I intend to leave it that way.

KJ.

Mate women would drive a car with four flat tyres & not think anything is wrong so no worries about a little light on the dash ..... lol

The car drives perfectly with a bucket load of power so I propose we look into how to get the dash apart to disable that stupid fn CEL!!! :badgrin:


Just remove the globe from the dash

BTW Fooz are those codes just from the FI ???

Just remove the globe from the dash

BTW Fooz are those codes just from the FI ???

.... & how do you remove the globe from the dash??

Before I put the blower on I didn't get any O2 sensor codes with the extender mod. I think the ones I have now are from the water/methanol injection confusing them. The to rich, to lean codes are from the larger fuel injectors & could possibily be tuned out but I CBF'd if I'm getting other codes anyway.

The car is as smooth as silk with plenty of get up & go so meh to the CEL!

the workshop manual has the how to to take out the cluster and then pull out the correct globe

I so want FI maybe on the next car

the workshop manual has the how to to take out the cluster and then pull out the correct globe

I so want FI maybe on the next car

Ok cool I will have to look up the manual.

Re next car, I might sell you mine if the timing is right. It's one of my company cars & will turn it over eventually.

nah I am going EVO when I can get the Mrs to give up the Corolla habit she has got

the workshop manual has the how to to take out the cluster and then pull out the correct globe


Just checked out the manual & it looks like two screws hold it in, surely it couldn't be that easy??

If it is I will be saying goodbye to the CEL forever :happy:

Leading on from the above post, I just removed my instrument panal & now no CEL!

It's very easy if anyone else wants to have a go.

Firstly drop your steering wheel down as far as it goes to give yourself some room, undo the two phillips head screws in the top part of the instrument panel. Grab the black plastic surround & gently pull until it unclips. I then grabbed the cluster from each side (bit fidley if you have big fingers) pull & wiggle until it all lets go. My perspex fascia popped out before I got the rest out. There is one big multi connector behind the cluster holding it in.

Remove perspax facia if it hasn't already come off like mine did, then unclip the front black plastic surround. At this point you can peel back the black overlay which will expose the idiot lights on the rear circuit board. They are LEDS so can't be removed. I got some high density foam & pushed down the CEL hole to block the LED.

Reassambled & hey presto can't see that stupid little CEL anymore :cool:

This whole exercise took me between 5 to 10 minutes to complete.

Thanks (again!) Fooz, will have a go at this too when I get the time and it's less than 43C in Adelaide.

KJ

never mind.

Nah it's all good. The stock ecu is confused because of my bigger injectors.

Nah it's all good. The stock ecu is confused because of my bigger injectors.

Fooz cant you rectify that problem with your piggy back ecu?

Fooz cant you rectify that problem with your piggy back ecu?

The factory ecu is looking for a particular value for the stock engine & my piggyback has modified the AFR's to suit the blower with the larger injectors. My AFR's are flat & slightly on the rich side throughout the rev range as a saftey for the blower. Might be able to tune it to make the ecu happier but whats the point? I put my foot down & the car goes like the clappers so who cares.

EDIT - Also have water/methanol ripping past the O2 sensors on boost which will confuse the factory value more :badgrin:

Also have water/methanol ripping past the O2 sensors on boost which will confuse the factory value more :badgrin:

Awww.....completely forgot about that!!:learn:

Leading on from the above post, I just removed my instrument panal & now no CEL!

It's very easy if anyone else wants to have a go.

Firstly drop your steering wheel down as far as it goes to give yourself some room, undo the two phillips head screws in the top part of the instrument panel. Grab the black plastic surround & gently pull until it unclips. I then grabbed the cluster from each side (bit fidley if you have big fingers) pull & wiggle until it all lets go. My perspex fascia popped out before I got the rest out. There is one big multi connector behind the cluster holding it in.

Remove perspax facia if it hasn't already come off like mine did, then unclip the front black plastic surround. At this point you can peel back the black overlay which will expose the idiot lights on the rear circuit board. They are LEDS so can't be removed. I got some high density foam & pushed down the CEL hole to block the LED.

Reassambled & hey presto can't see that stupid little CEL anymore :cool:

This whole exercise took me between 5 to 10 minutes to complete.

Got sick enough of the CEL to finally do this myself.

Worked a treat, only took 10 minutes, and even easier than Fooz says.

No need to remove the black plastic/rubber surround, just undo the two screws and using the same screwdriver poked into the now empty screw holes, gently lever/pull the top of the cluster towards yourself. Helps to gently lift the top of the dash (the bit above the cluster) at the same time. After a little bit of wiggling the whole thing just pops out in one piece. No need to then remove the perspex facia (about a dozen small clips holding it on), just remove the front black 'half' (including facia) from the white 'half' (which holds all the circuitry, LEDS etc). Eight plastic clips, dead easy to spring them open. This may be what Fooz meant anyway, hard to tell for sure.

Once apart, as Fooz says, just gently peel back the black overlay (it's loose anyway, not stuck or glued at all), and poke some black foam or similar into the square plastic hole behind the CEL graphic. I used some black/grey packing foam, the stuff used to package RAM chips, chucked plenty in the hole to make sure the LED can't shine through.

Clip the two halves back together and push the whole thing back into the dash, all done, no more annoying CEL.

KJ.

Mmmmm, :doubt: I know constant CELs would drive me batty as well, but it is there for a reason, particularly if you aren't running water/meth.

Are you going to do regular checks, like once a week, for error codes?

Mmmmm, :doubt: I know constant CELs would drive me batty as well, but it is there for a reason, particularly if you aren't running water/meth.

Are you going to do regular checks, like once a week, for error codes?

I've been doing regular checks for a few months now, but more like once a fortnight than once a week.

Same five harmless codes for the last couple of months. Can't remember them off hand, I'll do another check and post up the results. Clearing them with the OBC2 scanner doesn't stick, they pop straight up again. No change in the way the car runs (very strong) or the engine sounds for months.

OK, just checked again.

Only four codes now, definitely had five a week ago, so one has gone away all by itself! No idea which one.

The four remaining codes are:

P0036 = Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Control Unit Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0056 = Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Control Unit Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0141 = Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0161 = Oxygen Sensor Circuit Low Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 2

So all to do with bogus O2 sensor readings and no real engine problem.

KJ.

Yeah I haven't checked mine for a while but it's always the same pesky ones. I have a few more than you because of the bigger injectors. The oil & temp idiot lights are still seperate which is all there usually is on any car in the past. The CEL is really just indicating that a calculation from a sensor isn't in range so no major problem really.