Has anyone fitted a heat shield to the underneath of the 90mm intake
It almost sits on top of the radiator so heat would be radiating up to the intake

(as I found out after fitting the K&N and Burning my wrists multiple times)

I may look at wrapping it in heat shield tape but has anyone else done something to combat this

No, but I did notice the opening in front of the mouth of the intake which comes direct from the grille. Its quite small but I wonder the effect of enlarging it?

No, but I did notice the opening in front of the mouth of the intake which comes direct from the grille. Its quite small but I wonder the effect of enlarging it?


Air also draws through the bonnet latch area into the bonnet and out of a hole right above the intake. Check it out next time ya pop the hood,just look up!

No, but I did notice the opening in front of the mouth of the intake which comes direct from the grille. Its quite small but I wonder the effect of enlarging it?

One of the first mods I did, along with the K&N and 90mm snorkel, was to enlarge this hole. To the same size & shape as the hole/gap in the 90mm snorkel. Simply cut it with a hacksaw blade. But be warned, the metal here is a bit thick & hard, not an easy job! Others have done the same, pics around somewhere in an unknown thread!

Can't prove whether it makes any difference, but as you say the stock hole is very small so there is a reasonable chance that enlarging the hole improves air flow into the snorkel.

It's a free mod, nothing to lose, so why not?

KJ.

What if a series of holes were drilled? Could also stop larger unwanted debris getting sucked in :beer:

Not much point in fiddling about with the stock intake, bonnet seal and radiator rail hole. It a lot better to add another pipe into the bottom of the air filter box and leave the top inlet alone.

Cheers,
Alan

Not much point in fiddling about with the stock intake, bonnet seal and radiator rail hole. It a lot better to add another pipe into the bottom of the air filter box and leave the top inlet alone.

Cheers,
Alan

I agree, although I have modded the rubber seal on the bonnet to allow more air in (just because I could and had a little time on my hands to play with).I have been toying with the idea of running an additional pipe out to where the resonator finishes in the inner guard. I have a series 1 and I know that some of the guys with the later models are able to run them beside the radiator on the LHS. Unfortunately there doesnt appear to be enough room there on a series 1. It is unclear if this is going to make much of a difference though if you have already have the 90 mm and opened up the resonator. Fun to play with anyway and costs next to nothing (except time of course).

off track guys

(what unusual about that LOL)

thi was about the air getting heated while passing over the rad

it really isnt a problem.

fit something like ecudatascan on th obd connector and you'll see the inlet temp in real time and its rock steady.

If I were chasing down cooler air I think I would be more inclined to to the thermobloc gaskets. There is only anecdotal evidence that that does anything, however it does reduce the temperature on the inlet manifold significantly so that even after a long drive you are able to hold your hand on the inlet manifold. As the 90mm intake is plastic the heat transfer would be absolutely minimal. Probably look at some heat shield between the inlet and exhaust manifolds too whilst doing the thermobloc. I am not bothering to do this until I need to change plugs as you need the manifold off to do the rear bank anyway. Here is the blurb from RPW. They are not making outrageous claims this time, mind you they rip off their images from Outlaw.

Throttle Body Thermo Block Kit

The stock throttle body, being a fly by wire unit, is water heated. Fitment of a RPW thermo block gasket will reduce heat soak into the inlet manifold. This is recomended to be fitted with the matching inlet manifold thermo block as a package. This will provide reductions of approx 40% heat soak on the inlet manifold compared to stock setup.
The thermoblock kit reduces heat soak and this allows the engine to maintain maximun ignition timing with max throttle response.

If I were chasing down cooler air I think I would be more inclined to to the thermobloc gaskets. There is only anecdotal evidence that that does anything, however it does reduce the temperature on the inlet manifold significantly so that even after a long drive you are able to hold your hand on the inlet manifold. As the 90mm intake is plastic the heat transfer would be absolutely minimal. Probably look at some heat shield between the inlet and exhaust manifolds too whilst doing the thermobloc. I am not bothering to do this until I need to change plugs as you need the manifold off to do the rear bank anyway. Here is the blurb from RPW. They are not making outrageous claims this time, mind you they rip off their images from Outlaw.

Throttle Body Thermo Block Kit

The stock throttle body, being a fly by wire unit, is water heated. Fitment of a RPW thermo block gasket will reduce heat soak into the inlet manifold. This is recomended to be fitted with the matching inlet manifold thermo block as a package. This will provide reductions of approx 40% heat soak on the inlet manifold compared to stock setup.
The thermoblock kit reduces heat soak and this allows the engine to maintain maximun ignition timing with max throttle response.

See THERMOBLOC thread for the pro's and con's,and I reckon the 380's TB isn't water heated either!

See THERMOBLOC thread for the pro's and con's,and I reckon the 380's TB isn't water heated either!

Would you be surprised if RPW got it wrong? Not really into bagging them but they have sure made some very interesting claims along the way, some are stretching it a bit and some, like the resonator chamber mod and 90mm intake, are spot on.