Hey all I just purchased my 2nd TR.
My first TR is my daily driver and leaks a tiny bit of oil coming off the back of the engine, its not of concern since its barely noticable loss between oil changes

This new TR I got today has a similar oil leak but its much worse, I took the valve cover off and there did not seem to be any leak marks where the gasket sat. there is lots of grease at teh back of the engine and it seems to be coming from there.

Any idea's before I pop off the manifolds then head?

Welshplug?? To get the inlet manifold off and back on the TR is a BITCH, really gotta wriggle it off and u will lose coolant too (just to keep in mind).
Might be the head gasket as well, leaking out of one of your oil galleries if it has a crack in it. This can be changed within a day, but if you have to take if, it is highly reccomended u run a straight edged over the head and get it faced before putting back on.

welsh plugs eh, I had to google them, they look like freeze plug( canadian term) but I thought they held coolant back.

and to get at those I'd need to take the manifold off any ways, Maybe I should just pull the head:s

Common oil leak areas.

Rocker Cover gasket
Oil Cap
PCV and breather hoses
Knock Sensor
Head gasket
Sump Gasket
Cam seal.

EDIT; as 86elite said, if you are removing the head, have it machined before reinstalling to ensure it's flat and there's no warpage when you put it back on, minimising the risk of leaking again.

thanks Yann and elite.

I think I will check the driver side cam seal when the car is running, as all the oil is on the drivers side.
Would a cracked valve ( crack is only around the the bolt hole and does not travel down to the gasket) leak enough, I get about a 6 sqaure cm area of oil under the car.

But I might just replace all the gaskets Head and manifolds any ways, they are cheap plus I have my second magna as back up so I have time to work and check the welch plugs

thanks Yann and elite.

I think I will check the driver side cam seal when the car is running, as all the oil is on the drivers side.
Would a cracked valve ( crack is only around the the bolt hole and does not travel down to the gasket) leak enough, I get about a 6 sqaure cm area of oil under the car.

But I might just replace all the gaskets Head and manifolds any ways, they are cheap plus I have my second magna as back up so I have time to work and check the welch plugs

wow..thats a big leak mate. i'll put money on several leaks starting with rocker cover, then probably the head AND the sump. hope not, it's a pita to do the sump gasket.

well I am not to worried, I only paid 200 for the car, besides the oil leak its mint, worse case its just parts for my other magna that runs but its junk.lol

I take it the sump is at the back of the engine as well

well I am not to worried, I only paid 200 for the car, besides the oil leak its mint, worse case its just parts for my other magna that runs but its junk.lol

I take it the sump is at the back of the engine as well

the sump is the lowest part of the engine. the 'container' if you will, for the oil. this part covers the entire bottom of the engine and is held in by like 20-30 small 10mm screws.

If a car has sat for a period of time, the sump gaskets go hard and become useless. They need everyday operation to maintain its integrity.

ohh oil pan gasket.lol

ya there is lots of oil near the top end of the engine so I doubt its the sump pan gasket.

I have every thing off ready to lift the head, Just need to open the valve cover agian.

any suggestion as to take it off easy?
as well as keeping the timing, and or removing the timing chain.

So the plan is head gasket, valve cover gasket, exhaust gasket, new sensors, and welch plugs if they are easy to remove and install with the head off. out side of that I figured she should be ready to rock for a while longer

ohh oil pan gasket.lol

ya there is lots of oil near the top end of the engine so I doubt its the sump pan gasket.

I have every thing off ready to lift the head, Just need to open the valve cover agian.

any suggestion as to take it off easy?
as well as keeping the timing, and or removing the timing chain.

removing valve cover;
unplug and remove spark leads.
undo 2x 12mm bolts at top of cover.
lift cover from engine

head removal;
undo inlet manifold
undo exhaust manifold
remove distributor
remove water pump drive belt
remove cam seal
use 22mm socket to release cam sprocket bolt
use flat blade screw driver to pry sprocket from cam, ensuring sprocket does not fall into engine
use flat blade screwdriver to release timing gear and chain from cam, allowing to rest on the holder.
remove 2x 12mm bolts on passenger side of engine (to timing case)
remove 8x 17mm head stud bolts.
dislodge head from locating pins with heavy mallet.

installation is reverse of removal.

Notes;
When reinstalling, ensure a long piece of wooden dowel is available. you will need to release the ratchet tensioner on the oil pump. this will require much patience and much swearing.

when reinstalling timing gear, ensure timing mark on cam is straight up. it should be perfectly vertical, else valve timing will not be correct. this will also require patience and swearing due to ratchet tensioner taking all slack so you have no play.

lol

good luck:P

thanks man.
Is there an online source for torque specs?

Can u leave the inlet manifold on, I think I have it all disconnected so it will lift off with the head then I can remove it on the bench.

thanks man.
Is there an online source for torque specs?

Can u leave the inlet manifold on, I think I have it all disconnected so it will lift off with the head then I can remove it on the bench.


you can download the full workshop manual on here.

as for the inlet manifold.

if you remove it WITH the head, you will make your job ALOT harder. there are four bolts that need to be removed. two on the interim shaft (CV joint) and two on the engine block (allen key) mind you, the allen key ones need to be removed anyhow so that's half the work done.

the head will be quite a bit heavier with the inlet on aswell.

ok Cool I pop it off before I do the head.

my last question was about the wooden dole, I have the valve cover off and looking down the timing chain case, what am I suppose to be de tensioning

nothing, I leave my timing chain connected on the cam gear, I find when I put it back on, its generally pretty easy to pop back on, its only when you take the chain apart that you have to get the tensioner to release. i took the chain off last head gasket and I spent about 4 hours trying to get it to line back up

ok heads off Yeah.

so over all it looks good onyl thing I could notice was a small crack between the intake and exhaust valves and cylinder 2. its a tiny crack that most engine I have taken apart have. I looked down the intake and exuast runners and the crack is not noticalbe higher up.

Now I just need to clean it all up and reinstall. Any thing problemamtic I should look at for these 2.6L. like welch plugs?
Also I marked the distributer pretty good but it might have slipped. I tried to find the set up proceedure in the maunal but nto sure how to intsall it with the proper timing.