So a complete gasket kit for the top end of a 2.6L is only 105 bucks. from super cheap auto

I recieved it today, and put the head back on as well as the manifolds. I had to reuse the head bolts since I was unable to locate new ones.

the only thing I really have left to do is install the dist and set the ignition timing.
Whats the best way to set the ignition timing as I lost my location markers for the dist?
the engine is at TDC with the cam sproket marker at the top.

also when setting the ignition timing, what do u need to disconnect to have it run base timing?

Thanks for all the help

So a complete gasket kit for the top end of a 2.6L is only 105 bucks. from super cheap auto

I recieved it today, and put the head back on as well as the manifolds. I had to reuse the head bolts since I was unable to locate new ones.

the only thing I really have left to do is install the dist and set the ignition timing.
Whats the best way to set the ignition timing as I lost my location markers for the dist?
the engine is at TDC with the cam sproket marker at the top.

also when setting the ignition timing, what do u need to disconnect to have it run base timing?

Thanks for all the help

to set timing;

there's two marks on the dizzy. One is on the distributor electrical connector. it is just a line
there's also one on the rotor button, located at the end is a small line.

push dizzy into cylinder head, ensuring there's enough turn in the dizzy to then advance/retard timing as needed. The correct ignition timing for Astron is 13 +/- 2 degrees BTDC or 750 +/- 50 RPM.

align these two marks for TDC firing to Cyl 1.

*Notes;
-if the marks do not align, remove dizzy, move rotor button anti-clockwise and try again. keep doing this until they line up.
-If this procedure correctly followed and engine will not start, remove dizzy, place engine at TDC, then complete ANOTHER turn back to TDC. reinstall Dizzy and try again.
- If timing is correct but RPM is low/high, use Fast idle screw to adjust (located on top of Throttle body- Clockwise to lowere RPM anti-clockwise to raise RPM)

To set base timing,
you dont have to do this, but I do anyway because i'll be sure that the timing is correct. All you do is unplug the ISC and adjust the timing using the Distributor.

PS; That price sounds a bit rich though. I paid $120 for a full graphite gasket kit with aluminium exhaust gasket from a workshop around the corner from me. meh as long as it works:)

You don't need new head bolts - unlike newer engines, that use "stretchy" bolts, these are reuseable. Check though that the mating surface of the head where the washer sits isn't dished (from the alloy softening) and that the washers are still flat and installed the right way. Clean the bolt threads with a wire brush and oil them lightly. Check the bolt holes for cleanliness and fluid - any coolant or oil in there leads to hydraulic lock which can crack the block.

On an EFI 2.6 the base timing is set differently to the above. Are we talking carb or EFI? EFI uses an advance cut connector that needs to be earthed and the timing is set to 5 degrees. Disconnect it and check that the timing is advancing to 13. The advance cut is located on the firewall, it has a cap on it. Run a wire from it to the nearest earth, like a nut on the strut tower. It pays to clean the marks on the case and pulley, and highlight the appropriate marks with liquid paper. I hope you have a bright timing light, as its hard to see what is happening down there!

Ok So I have found the line on the electrical connector easy enough, its just the raised plastic edge for the clip right in the middle?

i can't find the second mark. What exactly do u mean by distributor button.

Distributor button = rotor arm, the bit that has a wide copper strip on it and spins around when the engine runs. It has a line down the middle of it, at the end.

Download the manual and have a look at the pictures. Page 13-2-46.

so every thing is together, but I can't get the car to start its def the distributor. So I want to line up the metal tip with the electrical connector or the back of the button when the engine is at TDC

so every thing is together, but I can't get the car to start its def the distributor. So I want to line up the metal tip with the electrical connector or the back of the button when the engine is at TDC

okay.

Now, remove the distributor, put the engine on TDC. Turn the engine ONCE clockwise to TDC. reinstall the distributor with the line in the COPPER meeting with the raised line in the distributor electrical connector.

If this doesnt work, turn the distrubitor slightly to allow for some wear. turn it CLOCKWISE slightly so that the rotor button is only JUT before the line, like 1mm.

I found the mark on the button.lol I'm just an idiot and it was covered by carbon. it starts I just need to dial in the timing, I'm waiting for SNOW to come around tonight with a timing light.

Looks like the prob was just the valve cover.lol no need to do the head gasket but it was fun and now I know its all good inside
once I get it all tightened down and running I'll post how it went.

Thanks agian to every on the forum, I would not have been able to do this by my self

I found the mark on the button.lol I'm just an idiot and it was covered by carbon. it starts I just need to dial in the timing, I'm waiting for SNOW to come around tonight with a timing light.

Looks like the prob was just the valve cover.lol no need to do the head gasket but it was fun and now I know its all good inside
once I get it all tightened down and running I'll post how it went.

Thanks agian to every on the forum, I would not have been able to do this by my self

mate dont forget to rip the valve cover ff and retorque the head bolts after 500km. :)

ahh nice I would have forgotten that ;)

I just need to get a timing light on it.

I think I may have another leak, those empty good for nothing holes in the side of the head by the intake. I don't think I am getting a good enough seal on it. the gasket that came with the kit was a thin paper one :(

Also one of the exhaust studs broke off, it was the far bottum one next to the water pump. I am getting a loudish exhaust note, but not sure if its from the off timing

ahh nice I would have forgotten that ;)

I just need to get a timing light on it.

I think I may have another leak, those empty good for nothing holes in the side of the head by the intake. I don't think I am getting a good enough seal on it. the gasket that came with the kit was a thin paper one :(

Also one of the exhaust studs broke off, it was the far bottum one next to the water pump. I am getting a loudish exhaust note, but not sure if its from the off timing

DO NOT RUN THE CAR

if there is a broken exhaust stud, while it wont do any damage, it will kill your exhaust gasket in NO TIME. you need to replace the stud. how far is it broken? can you get two nuts on it?

if not (and it' broken inside the head), you'll have to drill it and rethread it. I suggest using 'helicoil'. i destroyed a thread on my GB, used these, holds excellently.

what 'holes' in the head by the intake'?

well I did run the car.lol 30 K

And on the intake side of the head there is 2 water ports , the intake ports and this random square hole that leads into the rocker cover between the 4-3 intake runners/ports. The intake gasket is not sealing this very well and I get oil coming out of it.

Maybe I used the wrong gasket, the set came with way to many.

Girls, last time I checked this was a Tech section and not a session of pride.

STOP THE SPAM

Ok so oil leak caused by me using the wrong intake manifold gasket. all fixed now.

just one more oil leak left, its coming from between the tranny and engine. so I am thinking sump pan gasket or rear main seal.