1. Dont answer if you dont know yourself (I'm not interested in what ya mates brothers milkmans dog did mmkay)

2. Spamming the tech section costs an infraction

3. No guessing the car, I wont answer :P


OK

If I want to low pressure (6-10 psi) turbo a carb rwd 2ltr 4cyl for some extra upper end passing/uphill power:-

who do I see?

whats the best way?

what sorta cost would be involved?

Is there any reg issues?

What are the drawbacks?

Is there a simple way to get the grunt I need without messing about with bigger carbs cams etc (btdt)?


Ive played games with engines for...........a long time :ninja:.............and theres not much I cant do to a donk but turbos aint my forte.

Theres also been lotsa developments and a fresh viewpoint is always good.


.

If i remember correctly those old toyota engines take to superchargers quite nicely. Correct me if I am wrong but same engine as the early hilux 4A?

If you can manage to find a blower off a 4AGZE 16v engine and throw a side draft caby on the side of it you should be able to get that hiace moving along the highway quite nicely.......

EDIT: I'm not 100% sure on this but from memory they also have the electronic clutch on the front of them so it's boost on a switch.

If I am wrong then you could spend some time hunting around for a blower off a 1G-GTE as I know they have an electronic clutch in them.

Well knowing what engine you're using would help. But generally turboing a carby can be done two ways. You can either set it up as a suck through setup, in witch the carby is bolted before the turbo (usually right on or very close too). This is the easiest way to do it as you don't need to modify the carby to hold pressure (I'll get to that in a sec). The disadvantage of this setup is that you can't run an intercooler (hot piping full of pressurised air/fuel mix isn't a good idea....KABOOM).

The other way is to use a blow through setup, this means you are pushing compressed air through the carby. This is the bit I was talking about modifying the carby or making a equalisation chamber. You can simply make a sealed box that sits around your carby (equalising the pressure in and around the carb) to prevent air/fuel leaking out of all the seals. This way you can use the stock carb and the advatage is that you can run an intercooler setup.
OR you can get a carby from a factory turbo car like the early turbo Charade or Sigma. Some webbers like the ones used on XF's as an example can be easily modified using a carbon seal kit, these will usually hold up to 12psi.

Now furthermore, you must make sure you're fuel supply pressure is at least 2psi above that of your peak boost pressure. This will stop fuel being pushed back through the fuel lines if running a mechanical pump, as they tend to run relatively low pressure. There are a few rising rate pressure regulators designed for carbies that can be used, or you could switch to an electronic fuel pump (more cost and complexity).

Also don't forget ignition timing must be modified to suit. Thats all I can think of now, I did a bit of research on the topic as I was going to turbocharge the KE30 I used to have.

Also if you plan on running a suck through setup you have to use a turbo with an external wastegate as the fuel running through the turbo, then to the wastegate actuator, would destroy the diaphram in the actuator.

Also if you plan on running a suck through setup you have to use a turbo with an external wastegate as the fuel running through the turbo, then to the wastegate actuator, would destroy the diaphram in the actuator.

It doesn't matter if it's internally gated. The waste gate actuator is in the exhaust housing, fuel will only go through the compressor housing. Having said that the diaphram in the waste gate acutator will only ever come in contact with air.

yeah and the boost pressure is used to open the actuator via the diaphram (used the wrong terminology in previous post) and the rubber diaphram will detrioriate.

Been there done that.

Blowthrough you need a low pressure rising rate fuel pressure regulator, a sealed carb (or make a box as someone else stated). Advantages are you can intercool. If you just try to pressurise a normal carb it will run lean and blow fuel back up the pump.

Suckthrough (which I setup on a mates car) used an SU (IIRC) off a sigma turbo, along with the CARBON SEAL turbo from the same car - if you use a normal turbo, you will suck the oil past the seals with engine vacuum.

Keep the intake runners as short as possible, and use something like flexible exhaust coupling - the heat from the engine / turbo will keep the fuel well atomised, but it also pays to have a burst valve of some sort when you have an inevitable backfire through the carb when the dizzy isn't quite tuned in (oops) - its quite spectacular!

Usual things like recurving your dizzy to suit etc etc. apply. Did this quite a few years ago, but the old memory still works

This sounds bigger than ARS55' backside.

The engine is a 4Y 2.2 toyoty motor as in the hilux 4x4's

I thought about a better cam and extractors/exhaust but the gains aint really there

I'm wondering now if a snail on a carby engine is worth the hassle.

Maybe the V6 holden conversion is a better way to go (I can get a factory kit for that) but theres the engineer plates with that. :facejump:


:beer::beer::beer:

.

you will need to engineer it either way..

is in an 'old' tired engine??

Rollinautomotive imports down at labrador do exachange new & reco'd engines.. prolly would be better starting with a fresh one as they tend to clock up a few hundred km's easilly and loose a wee bit compression :) :)


but if it's all a relativley good condition engine..

Log manifold - $few hundred bux MAX for a professional to make up
a CA18det garrett turbo might suit your application prefectly.. as they are low mount, and the stock dump pipe points in the right direction!
oil & water lines relativley easy..
i would use somthing like a 32/36 webber.. they have been tried and tested with blow through setups.. (google is your friend here)

you can do things like invert the vac advance on the dizzy, so when it comes on boost it retards timing, rather than advancing..

hope that helps you..

you will need to engineer it either way..

is in an 'old' tired engine??

Rollinautomotive imports down at labrador do exachange new & reco'd engines.. prolly would be better starting with a fresh one as they tend to clock up a few hundred km's easilly and loose a wee bit compression :) :)


but if it's all a relativley good condition engine..

Log manifold - $few hundred bux MAX for a professional to make up
a CA18det garrett turbo might suit your application prefectly.. as they are low mount, and the stock dump pipe points in the right direction!
oil & water lines relativley easy..
i would use somthing like a 32/36 webber.. they have been tried and tested with blow through setups.. (google is your friend here)
you can do things like invert the vac advance on the dizzy, so when it comes on boost it retards timing, rather than advancing..

hope that helps you..


Google answer below

(32/36) weber = 0.888888889 webers
More about calculator.

:roflwtf:


It'll actually be a brand new import 4Y copy from rolin or a closer competitor im talkin to atm so thanks for the tips :happy:

Google answer below

(32/36) weber = 0.888888889 webers
More about calculator.

:roflwtf:


It'll actually be a brand new import 4Y copy from rolin or a closer competitor im talkin to atm so thanks for the tips :happy:
if you doin a whole new engine, will a 3sgte fit in? they fit most old toyotas

if you doin a whole new engine, will a 3sgte fit in? they fit most old toyotas

The trouble with engine conversions is it open up that whole emissions compliance can of worms for engineering.

The 3sgte has the inlet/exhaust manifolds reversed to the 4Y and theres no clearance on the drivers side for the big 3sgte inlet manifold.

Nice idea though Keith.

The 4Y is a 2.2 and the present motor is a 3Y which is externally identical but only 2.0

It was also an option on the vehicle originally with the same brakes/suspension.....easy peasy.

The trouble with engine conversions is it open up that whole emissions compliance can of worms for engineering.

The 3sgte has the inlet/exhaust manifolds reversed to the 4Y and theres no clearance on the drivers side for the big 3sgte inlet manifold.

Nice idea though Keith.

The 4Y is a 2.2 and the present motor is a 3Y which is externally identical but only 2.0

It was also an option on the vehicle originally with the same brakes/suspension.....easy peasy.
No worries then. Didnt know much about the 4y so didnt realise they were reversed.

If you're not going to go the turbo route then may I suggest a carby from a 250 crossflow falcon e.g. XF falcon. They give quite a bit of go to the old 4Y engines. couple that with some extractors and a 2 1/4 inch exhaust and you got plenty of go for the camper.

Its going to be a major PITA to engineer too... They will probably look at brakes, emission control etc etc. Ugh.

Its going to be a major PITA to engineer too... They will probably look at brakes, emission control etc etc. Ugh.


I have a bit of an inside line on that ......wink wink.......nudge nudge.....say no more :ninja:

For the price of a falcon carby, you could buy a whole falcon and jam the crossflow and auto trans in

But seriously, Stu Cornall in Hervey Bay would know how to go about turboing (& rego etc) if thats what you really want to do

It seems the best way I think

edit: googled him:happy:



For the price of a falcon carby, you could buy a whole falcon and jam the crossflow and auto trans in

But seriously, Stu Cornall in Hervey Bay would know how to go about turboing (& rego etc) if thats what you really want to do