Hey everyone

Its been a while since I'v last posted, hope all is going good !


Anyway, does anyone know of any products that will cut through bore water stains on paint ? I have a buffing machine and pads at home and i'v given it a go with a generic "cut and polish" but to no avail,


If someone could point me in the righ direction that would be great !



also, is sulphuric acid (for wheels) available in store s?


cheers
:mits:

I would try rining a detailing company, they might be able to lead you in the right direction for the best product to do such a thing? Your only other option is to do a cut and buff but be carelful not to cut back too much or else you might go through your clear coat. Also, if you pop down this Thursday to our social meet, Ash will be there and he is pretty good at keeping his car clean so he also may have some tips for you.

All the best

Don't use hand compounds with a proper buffer. They're far too co****!
Go to a paint supply business and get some burnishing cream, plus a lambswool pad.
*edit* what a lame filter this forums has, it filtered ****.

Regards, Andrew.

I like Poorboys SSR2.5 (http://www.waxit.com.au/proddetail.asp?prod=PB0008&cat=14).

I think getting a pro in for a paint correction might be a better idea though. Cheap random orbitals won't have the power to properly work the product. I'm also wary about off-the-shelf lambswools pads. Finally, if you're using a strong abrasive polish, it's advisable to go back over with a less abrasive polish to get the best finish out of the paint.

Unless you have a decent random orbital (not a $40 Supercheap Special) and the associated pads and polishes, it'd be more economical to get a pro in if it was just a one off, unless you really wanted to build up your detailing collection.

Having said all that, if you're keen to do it yourself, you could always try Meguiars StratchX 2.0. It's an abrasive polish designed to be used by hand. I've tried it and have been reasonably impressed by it. It's not expensive ($20), and if you're willing to put a fair bit of physical effort in, you should get an alright result out of it. I'd guess it to be better than using a machine and pad that wasn't up to task.

when we were polishing up Gelcoat on motor homes, we would use a large grinder with polishing/buffing pad attached, worked great and the variable speed is usefull. always came up awesome and i did my car and it worked well. I also got off watermarks with armourall paint conditioner, then armourall wax polish. came up brilliant and no more stains have come back. doing it again soon as summer comes in.

Sorry to hijack this thread, but what can I use to fix clear coat damage. It is about the size of a 5c coin in the middle of the roof.

i think if the clearcoat has been damaged to the point it has blistered, then i believe you have to do the sand and respray.

correct. Once it starts to come off its only going to get worse :(

Yeah it spreads like cancer as well, had it all over the roof, half of the boot, and even the top of the doors on the window sill ffs :swearing:

Ended up getting a complete respray and had to sand the affected areas back with 240grit to start with. Big job.

I haven't seen anyone or anything that can stop it.

ANyway guys, i bought some of this "wet cut" stuff from supercheap, and worked it in with a buff on low speed, seemed to work well !


cheers