dickie77
04-11-2009, 09:07 PM
Have just fitted King SP springs and Boge shocks, which I got from Phillcom. This combined with strut brace (front) and rear Whiteline swaybar (placed at mid seting) has made my 3.5 tj Advance a gem. I am totally happy with the result. The car feels pretty neutral in its' handling (sometimes I can feel understeer and sometimes oversteer, but most times she goes where she is pointed). The steering feels heavier and teh centre position vagueness is gone. Just a few comments...after 150 000km the Monroes were still pretty good (no leaks and seem to have suitable resistance if one pushes/pulls on them). I love the height of the car and it looks good too. The old springs were all green marked, except the LHS front (yellowish brown colour). This seems odd anyone know? The height is now about 370 allround from centre of rim to underside of guard. This is about 20mm lower than factory. My old springs had sagged at the rear, probably from towing heavy loads. If anyone wants the old springs, you can have them free (pick up in Sydney), else they will be dumped next week. It is often said that a setup like mine will work the shocks harder. Now I agree if one drives harder because the car handles better, sure shock will wear out sooner. but I can't see why if one drives moderatley there will be additional stresses on the shocks. These are better quality shocks, so should last longer and if car rolls less beause of stiffer springs, shocks don't need to work as hard. Softer/floaty suspension on the other hand means shocks have to work more. Apparently TL/TW have stiffer springs than tjs did. Does anyone know the spring rates for TL/TW? All TL/TW have rear sway bar, so these would all be OK from handling point of view. Just add front strut brace and they would be real good, even lower spec models (LE?). Wanted to get teh feel for it as it is and for springs to settle, now ready for wheel alignment. Will probably go for Front toe in .1mm overall and hope front camber is 30 sec neg (up to zero). Does anyone know how much camber can be varied by moving the strut on the 2 standard bolts (there is some play). I have one strut adjusting bolt (Whiteline, so hope no adjsuting bolts needed or only one needed). REAR zero toe (ranging to .1mm toe in per wheel) and camber I hope will be neg 40 sec (ranging to neg 70 sec). having got my car to handle like this I wonder what I could do with an AWD (better get to bed before the idea takes root). Awd is looking more attractive as my next car rather than 380.