i have the new nickname tractor thanks to my nice "tick tick tick" it drives me insane! it was gotten progressively worse and now its really loud! most people won't believe how bad it is!

i'm certain they are the lifters! anyone got any good tips as to how to remove the noise without actually changing them? i wouldn't mind some oil additive that work. i've just done a flush etc and nothing happens :(

Ahahahaha. Welcome to my world :)

Mate, there's no magic cure to noisy lifters other than replacing them.
You can try one of the "lifter free" additives but it won't do anything unless your engine's really dirty inside.

I change my oil every 7.5K and there where no deposits and no blocked oil galleries when I pulled my rocker gear apart. My lifters had done 150K and two of them literally fell to pieces when removed. Totally stuffed.

Lifters can be changed in an afternoon, it's really not that hard.

My Magna with 89000k on the odometer has had rattling lifters when cold for a while but the rattle goes after a few seconds. However on Monday the rattle wouldn't stop, so a bit worried I ran it down to the local Mitsubishi dealer and presented it for inspection. The head mechanic (top bloke) had a quick look, topped up the oil for me and suggested Lifter Free, a Wynns product. Cost me $14.95 from the local parts shop. The rattle stopped within 20 seconds of running after adding the lifter free, and it's now as good as gold, we did a 600k trip the next day.

The car gets dealer serviced by the book every 15000k, and I do an oil and filter change between each service. Despite this care I had noticed very sticky immovable sludge on the dipstick for the last 30000k. The mechanic said it was very common but nothing to worry about.

Give Lifter Free a shot it worked for me, if it doesn't sort it you're only down $15.

Not sure if I have the same problem. My engine rattles like a diesel engine when its at low RPM. Could this be the start of something serious???

Nulon Worn Engine Treatment will "fix" it for a while.

thanks guys i will give it a try, i have also noticed that i think that the rocket cover gaskets are leaking slightly.

I think that i will change the rear spark plugs (and fronts of course) rocket covers and also look into which little bust##d is causing the ticks :(

I agree for 15bucks i have nothing to loose, but long term it will be a long weekend with my car and a lot of beer and until i change all this lol

Despite this care I had noticed very sticky immovable sludge on the dipstick for the last 30000k. The mechanic said it was very common but nothing to worry about.



Pretty sure that's bad for the engine in a big way, all the reviews on magnas I read before buying mine said to look for "sludging" and to stay away if it has it, basically clogs the oil galleries up and causes oil starvation, should get it looked at by a better (than a dealer) mechanic asap!

And 15k between services is probably too long between oil changes, as said many times on here. I get both our magnas done at 5k intervals

Lash adjusters? cost ya bout 100 bucks I think to get done?

sorry mate wat are the lash adjusters, i know that the tappets and lifter are hydrolic and can't be adjusted.

Btw its a 3rd gen TJ sII 3.5

Expect to pay around $17 each for the lifters. I had them changed on my old 3.0L unit and it got rid of the ticking sound, ran smooth as after this.

My understanding is that all will not be required to be changed? is that the case?

If I'm not mistaken, lifter can be cleaned.

They are the part that oils your tappets i think, so when one goes really loud, its not feeding oil to it. But quiet important so get a set thrown through your engine and see how you go, its not overly expensive to get done.

They are the part that oils your tappets i think, so when one goes really loud, its not feeding oil to it. But quiet important so get a set thrown through your engine and see how you go, its not overly expensive to get done.

tappets are solid, lifters are hydraulic and aided by a spring.

a noisy lifter, unless it's pitted, will look just like a normal lifter. you need to press it in and out a few times, it should be resistant, but not hard. if it's hard it needs replacing. take the oportunity to replce them all mate, well worth it because its one less thing that'll fail:)

when replacing make sure to prime them before putting them in the engine by inserting a pin into the oil hole and pump the lifter while it's submerged in oil. if you dont do this you run the risk of seizing the lifter.

as for cleaning them, insert them in diesel fuel and do as ou would do to prime them until black crap has finished coming out. change the diesel with every lifter you do and again, prime after the clean:)

Not sure if I have the same problem. My engine rattles like a diesel engine when its at low RPM. Could this be the start of something serious???

I would think this could possibly be loose belts (a/c, steering). Very common Usually low round 1000/1200rpm under very light throttle.
Get someone to tighten them up and i'm sure it will cure it.

Speak to Madmagna mate. He will able to help/advise you.

Just quietly people... my .02c

Don't waste your time cleaning them with diesel... if they're out.. replace them.

yeah it may work for 10-20,000ks but you'll have to open it all up again and replace them...

Get some new ones, prime them well in oil, and install them... another 100,000k's + of tick free motoring!!!!


My old 93' GSR Lancer had at least one go at every 40,000 k's. kept buying new ones... real easy to replace in those though. (Use to thrash that car mercilessly)

Steve

yer i think that they are past the point of cleaning. I placed a wooden stick near the engine and heard that clearly one or two are completely stuffed! i will still try the additive that was recommended earlier though, might be my lucky day lol
I agree that there is little point in cleaning them, considering cleaning all of them and then changing the one that is make me sound like a tractor. I will see how i go, depends on $$!

thanks a lot gents!

My Te started ro do this recentley, after it warmes up its fine . now its only started after i have done a oil change. i'm going to drop the oil tommro and put in some penrite stuff. How hard is it to change the lifters??

My Te started ro do this recentley, after it warmes up its fine . now its only started after i have done a oil change. i'm going to drop the oil tommro and put in some penrite stuff. How hard is it to change the lifters??

its not too hard, depending.

i did the astron ones. unbolt but dont completely loosen rocker assembly and lift one rocker arm at a time. put a pin in the hole at the top and push the lifter out. they should have clearance. make sure the cam doesnt slip out of timing though.

its not too hard, depending.

i did the astron ones. unbolt but dont completely loosen rocker assembly and lift one rocker arm at a time. put a pin in the hole at the top and push the lifter out. they should have clearance. make sure the cam doesnt slip out of timing though.

hmm, after a bit more searching i found this http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64269&highlight=lifters

I would think this could possibly be loose belts (a/c, steering). Very common Usually low round 1000/1200rpm under very light throttle.
Get someone to tighten them up and i'm sure it will cure it.

Yeah your right. Had it checked out today and it was the A/C compressor on its way out. Sounds even more worse after getting the car back. More money to spend to fix the car. *sigh*

tappets are solid, lifters are hydraulic and aided by a spring.

a noisy lifter, unless it's pitted, will look just like a normal lifter. you need to press it in and out a few times, it should be resistant, but not hard. if it's hard it needs replacing. take the oportunity to replce them all mate, well worth it because its one less thing that'll fail:)

when replacing make sure to prime them before putting them in the engine by inserting a pin into the oil hole and pump the lifter while it's submerged in oil. if you dont do this you run the risk of seizing the lifter.

as for cleaning them, insert them in diesel fuel and do as ou would do to prime them until black crap has finished coming out. change the diesel with every lifter you do and again, prime after the clean:)

Yann, you are actualy wrong, a good lash adjuster will be firm due to the fact that the valve inside the adjuster is working and there is no air in there and pressure is being held. On a new one once bled if done correctly it will also be firm and will not move. If you do a cam change for example you will sometimes find the engine runs rough for a while until the lash adjusters bleed back


Just quietly people... my .02c

Don't waste your time cleaning them with diesel... if they're out.. replace them.

yeah it may work for 10-20,000ks but you'll have to open it all up again and replace them...

Get some new ones, prime them well in oil, and install them... another 100,000k's + of tick free motoring!!!!


My old 93' GSR Lancer had at least one go at every 40,000 k's. kept buying new ones... real easy to replace in those though. (Use to thrash that car mercilessly)

Steve

Exactly, if they are noisy, all the cleaning and bleeding of them in the world will not fix them long term


its not too hard, depending.

i did the astron ones. unbolt but dont completely loosen rocker assembly and lift one rocker arm at a time. put a pin in the hole at the top and push the lifter out. they should have clearance. make sure the cam doesnt slip out of timing though.

Yann, not singling you out bud, just responding to posts, on the third gen engines you do need to remove the rocker rail and rockers and properly clean them out. They have a common problem where by the beed hole gets blocked and this is generally the cause of early failure.

Another issue with the later lash adjusters is they are held together by a plastic ring not the old metal ring that the old ones had. These become brittle over time and crack thus when removed the adjuster comes out in little bits.

To the OP, if you want these fixed properly let me know and we can book you in.

They have a common problem where by the beed hole gets blocked and this is generally the cause of early failure.

Another reason to do regular oil changes, changing the filter every time (I know of people that change the oil filter every second oil change!!!).

so i changed to the oil + filter to some penrite stuff and now its only sounds like a tractor sometimes when its cold (for about 10s)

I just cleaned my rails and replaced all 24 lifters on my TH . Took 3 hours 2l diesel 2 nylon scourers and a can of carby cleaner , all up $160 . So quiet now just purrs.

tappets are solid, lifters are hydraulic and aided by a spring.

Hope this doesn't seem picky. Tappets and lifters for generations have been interchangable terms, and are also called cam followers because they make contact with, and follow the cam lobe. (In non-rocker type OHC and DOHC engines they can also be called buckets, bucket followers or inverted buckets).

In Magna/380 they really are not tappets, lifters or cam followers. They are "hydraulic lash adjusters" to be technical, or just "lash adjusters".

Cheers,
Alan

Hope this doesn't seem picky. Tappets and lifters for generations have been interchangable terms, and are also called cam followers because they make contact with, and follow the cam lobe. (In non-rocker type OHC and DOHC engines they can also be called buckets, bucket followers or inverted buckets).

In Magna/380 they really are not tappets, lifters or cam followers. They are "hydraulic lash adjusters" to be technical, or just "lash adjusters".

Cheers,
Alan

Tappet/lifter/lash adjuster Nazi!!!:shifty:

LOL...

You are right though... I've heard people call them tappets when they've been underbucket shims!!

Steve

Mmmmm rang mitsu parts yesterday to see what they charge for lash adjusters, as mine need changing now it's starting to sound diesel like and loud.
$46.70 each!!
Good thing Repco sells them for $11 each.
Guess I'll also be changing the rocker cover gaskets, again.

So, point is, use Mitsu prices as a benchmark then find cheaper.

Mmmmm rang mitsu parts yesterday to see what they charge for lash adjusters, as mine need changing now it's starting to sound diesel like and loud.
$46.70 each!!
Good thing Repco sells them for $11 each.
Guess I'll also be changing the rocker cover gaskets, again.

So, point is, use Mitsu prices as a benchmark then find cheaper.
Rocker cover gaskets can be reused if in good condition.
eBay is your friend. Search "6g74 sohc lifters". $100pp for a set of 24 from the USA.

mmm I'm not a fan of ebay for engine parts, but Repco has the adjusters in stock and I'd much rather use new gaskets. I want to get all this done before I leave for my drive to Perth next month.

Haha, in my initial haste and limited time today to get things done for this job tomorrow, I realised I only bought 12 and not 24 of the adjusters. It is 24 thats needed? Now have to wait another 2 weeks before I can do it. :(

From Repco
I have 12 adjusters at $11 each
Set of ACL Valve covers for $40 pair and,
Free copy of TG Aust


So with new adjusters, can you prime them with oil or does it need to be diesel?

this is what i have been looking for, i have the 3.8 v6 in my 'sportswagon', and when i start it dead cold there is a rattle from the southern bank of lifters and it scared the shit out of me first time i heard it, and i dont really want to bite the bullet and send it to a mechanics to have them replaced as i heard it aint cheap! ill flush the engine and try that additive with my new oil :)

Haha, in my initial haste and limited time today to get things done for this job tomorrow, I realised I only bought 12 and not 24 of the adjusters. It is 24 thats needed? Now have to wait another 2 weeks before I can do it. :(

From Repco
I have 12 adjusters at $11 each
Set of ACL Valve covers for $40 pair and,
Free copy of TG Aust


So with new adjusters, can you prime them with oil or does it need to be diesel?

I found the ebay ones identical to those sourced from bricks n mortar parts shop. They all seem to be out of the same spanish factory.
Wash old lifters in diesel and prime ( shank end of a 0.5 mm drill bit works well ) in oil if you can wont really matter.
Remember to clean the rocker arms the lifters sit in spotless. I used nylon scourers carby cleaner cotton buds and diesel effective.
New lifters I think is better to prime in oil but takes longer to get all the air bubbles out.
And now Im using Mobil 1 5-50 full syn. 1 sec rattle at cold start up.

I think the manual says to use Diesel to prim lifters. I used ATF as that is what I had in the shed.
I used a can of carby cleaner to blow out all the oil galleries in the rocker gear.
Yes, you will need 24 lifters.
Whilst you've got the rocker covers off change the spark plug tube mushroom seals. Chances are if they haven't been changed recently they'll be leaking too. (oil collecting around the spark plugs)

this is what i have been looking for, i have the 3.8 v6 in my 'sportswagon', and when i start it dead cold there is a rattle from the southern bank of lifters and it scared the shit out of me first time i heard it, and i dont really want to bite the bullet and send it to a mechanics to have them replaced as i heard it aint cheap! ill flush the engine and try that additive with my new oil :)

Unless you put the 6G75 in there yourself, you'll have a 6G74 3.5L V6.

Splitting hairs there though, they both look the bloody same lol