ok ive got a delema. my under bonnet temps have increased alot since fitting extractors (i couldnt afford ceramic coating at the time). i feel this is affecting intake temps and the ecu is retarding the timing. i open he bonnet after a good drive and its extremely hot.

i cant get them ceramic coated now because there welded on (twin sysem from each head).


ive been researching exhaust tape/wrapping. the only thing stopping me from doing it, is its been said that moisture gets stuck in the wrap and rusts the pipes.

now i only want people that have had experince with the stuff to reply.

has anyone come accross this.

Sadly it's true. Probably get a couple of years out of the pipes still.

Just get the pipes cut and flanged (which shouldve been done in the first place!) so that you can take the extractors off and get them coated..... Im sure being the "bling" boy that you are, that you would love to have them ceramic coated then chromed.....

Just get the pipes cut and flanged (which shouldve been done in the first place!) so that you can take the extractors off and get them coated..... Im sure being the "bling" boy that you are, that you would love to have them ceramic coated then chromed.....

hmm. the front headers can be removed. were down south can i get this done.

ive also opened up the bonnet vents to help.

I had mine done by ceramic coat australia (which are a division of pacemaker headers) at richmond

http://www.pacemaker.com.au/ceramic_coat.html

Have you thought of heat shielding below the inlet manifold to reduce heat soak?

Have you thought of heat shielding below the inlet manifold to reduce heat soak?

As said above plus some additional venting (from below or front somehow?) to force additional air circulation.....have you measured under bonnet air temps so that you can measure your results? See what works best.

Thought of adding washers to the bonnet hinges to space it out a bit so you get the bonnet sitting up acting like a cowl? That will reduce bonnet temps a bit, did that on my mate's Lancer with a 4G63T in it to lower the temps.

air vents on the bonet look ugly = but sounds really practical to me... i ve been wanting to do it for a while, the ONLY thing stoping me is having water go inside the engine bay.. i cant find a area im happy to have water going on all the time wen it rains..

ok ive put a thermomater under the bonnet attached to the hoodliner above front manifold.

at idle with no load on engine it gets to about 95degrees. id say with a good run it would get above 120 degrees easy.

ive left it on so 2morrow ill see what it gets upto with daily driving

Remember there is no airflowing over the engine whilst idle so temps will be high

I would do what jason said though would bling up the engine bay and lower temps =win win

ok ive got a delema. my under bonnet temps have increased alot since fitting extractors (i couldnt afford ceramic coating at the time). i feel this is affecting intake temps and the ecu is retarding the timing. i open he bonnet after a good drive and its extremely hot.




How do you know the CPU is retarding the timing?

Have you measured the intake temperature dynamically?

Id be working on the getting the Headers off the car. I dont like the look of the heat wrap stuff. Looks so ugly. I dont know why your headers are welded on. Thats was silly by who ever did that. Ive been researching Ceramic Coating done too laterly and when i seen the results i forgot of how expensive it was going to be and just looked and the finish. Looks good and reduces heat dramatically.:)

Yeah, on the evo I have my front pipe + wastegate dump tube wrapped in the thermo wrapping..

Ill eventally get the turbo manifold ceramic coated then Ill thermno wrap it as well..

I haven't had any problems at all with excessive heat from my extractors/headers. No loss of performance after extended periods of idling, no hint of the ECU retarding the timing.

Then again I haven't been driving around in hot weather since fitting the extractors, well not until the last few days in Adelaide.

Now that we are getting some hot weather in Adelaide I'll keep an eye on under bonnet temps and any loss of performance.

If I notice serious problems then I will look into getting at least the front bank headers ceramic coated.

But no need to panic yet.

KJ.

the reason for this is on saturday me and steve were doing a base run before tuning the haltek. ive lost power since doing my engine work. we left the car sitting for a couple hours and then did another run while still cool. made 2kw more than before engine work. then the next run lost 10kw. wtf is going. this is why im thinking its engine bay temps. we had an industrial fan going but the temp inside the shed was bloody hot.

Too much heat will always result in a drop in power. The ECU will reduce power to protect the engine from heat by retarding timing or richening up the air/fuel ratio, both of which will reduce power. What was the temp in the dyno booth?

the reason for this is on saturday me and steve were doing a base run before tuning the haltek. ive lost power since doing my engine work. we left the car sitting for a couple hours and then did another run while still cool. made 2kw more than before engine work. then the next run lost 10kw. wtf is going. this is why im thinking its engine bay temps. we had an industrial fan going but the temp inside the shed was bloody hot.

Aha, that clears it up a bit. You were standing still. I was wondering how excess heat from the extractors could heat the intake air enough to cause the ECU to retard the timing. Other than sitting at idle for an extended period, once you get moving the flow of air over the extractors should cool them down, and the air coming in through the intake snorkel and through to the intake plenum would be moving too fast to be effected to any real degree by heat from the extractors. Unless you had an unshielded intake pod in the engine bay, somewhere near the extractors. Which you (mytsgt95) don't have. And maybe for a few seconds after take off from a period of extended idling, before the air flow had a chance to cool down the extractors and/or the intake & plenum.

But then again you would think with the bonnet open and an industrial fan blowing you would get at least as much air flow & cooling as when you were driving with the bonnet shut.

So maybe there is something to this extractor heat theory?

KJ.

I've heard of the heat wrapping stuff cracking pipes, so keep it in mind. I'd personally bite the bullet and ceramic coat them. You can get a ceramic coating that looks almost like chrome anyway. :D

Too much heat will always result in a drop in power. The ECU will reduce power to protect the engine from heat by retarding timing or richening up the air/fuel ratio, both of which will reduce power. What was the temp in the dyno booth?

it was over 40

did some testing today.

60kph - ave 87degrees
80kph - ave 75degrees
idle at lights for ave 1.5m - 99degrees


next step im gonna fit the thermomator inside the intake plenum to see actual intake temp right before it goes into the chamber.

did some testing today.

60kph - ave 87degrees
80kph - ave 75degrees
idle at lights for ave 1.5m - 99degrees


next step im gonna fit the thermomator inside the intake plenum to see actual intake temp right before it goes into the chamber.

You can get this info off the OBD2 port. I have watched mine while driving & it goes up dramatically sitting idling but once you get the air flowing into the motor it drops quite a bit.

You can get this info off the OBD2 port. I have watched mine while driving & it goes up dramatically sitting idling but once you get the air flowing into the motor it drops quite a bit.

yeah but the temp sensor is in the maf. i want to know what it is just before it goes into the chamber.

yeah but the temp sensor is in the maf. i want to know what it is just before it goes into the chamber.

Just thinking that would be a handy idea for tuning the water/methanol on the blower to get the intercooling right :hmm: