Been taking some time to get to this stage – apparently there is more to life than working on cars, says Mrs K. Really!!
Note, this report is based on my car/application/mods with 220 G km on it.
I have done dyno tune, on-road testing, drag timing and tuning etc fiddling.

There is no power loss at all compared to OEM plenum (back to back dyno). Power curves meet at ~3300 RPM, below that, SF has ~20% more grunt than OEM. Revs freely to ~6500 - with grunt.
Tuned peak HP increase using VPower is ~10%.
Driveability is great - very small BF action required at urban speeds, 60 km/h goes with 4% TP. Need to have quite accurate right foot to keep to the speed limits. 110 km/h requires ~9% TP.
Slight decrease in urban fuel economy, but due to many variables in such driving, I’m not engaging to that. No HWY trip yet, perhaps in a fortnight.

Additionally, “fiddling” with the Moristech Interceptor is all fun and I’m still conducting some on-road experiments just for the sake of it.

BTW, ¼ strip time at WSID was sad, due to the massive heat we had on the day. But I wasn’t the only one being disappointed. One guy was almost crying after having spent thousands on his Lexus and didn’t score a good time at all, but that’s another story. At least my boy still beats or levels with Dunnydoors and XR6s.

Negatives? Daaaamn heavy and works as a heat sink for the cyl heads.

Summary: very worthwhile mod and does what it was advertised to do.

interesting read killer, i have the #002 SF. i havnt cut the SF down as others have here. (besides workmanship)
mine feels like it as breathing difficulties up the top end, compared to OEM, however im hoping to pin this down to incorrrectly alligned ports, which ill post a pic of. and will be boring this out correctly when i get some free time.
i have a dyno readout of the car with the OEM manifold, and i plan to do one with the SF and later with cams and a tune. could you put up some of these dyno charts?
hopefully this thread can stay on track enough and is kept open.

with the weight of the manifold, a friend of mine asked me if i wanted any work done, i suggested the bracket for my manifold, he was keen enough, but again i need time to organise this, and i dont even have my car atm, if the bracket he makes me is good, i will see if he is keen on making some side cash and make some for the SF owners here

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn177/lowridermagna/12082009.jpg

How are you planning to do the "cutting"? I used pneumatic tool and die grinder - nothing else really made any difference. Take the material off along the runners for about 30 mm of lenght to ensure smooth transition. I used a ~ 30mm barrel sander to smoothen all work, with normal power drill.
Yep, I made a bracket from some 2mm steel sheet piece and it works quite well. One bolt each end, top and bottom. Gives sufficient support witout manifold bolts being in at all - good enough for me.

I'm looking for a WideBand AFR gauge to do small TP on-road testing and tuning, with the Interceptor ECU.


interesting read killer, i have the #002 SF. i havnt cut the SF down as others have here. (besides workmanship)
mine feels like it as breathing difficulties up the top end, compared to OEM, however im hoping to pin this down to incorrrectly alligned ports, which ill post a pic of. and will be boring this out correctly when i get some free time.
i have a dyno readout of the car with the OEM manifold, and i plan to do one with the SF and later with cams and a tune. could you put up some of these dyno charts?
hopefully this thread can stay on track enough and is kept open.

with the weight of the manifold, a friend of mine asked me if i wanted any work done, i suggested the bracket for my manifold, he was keen enough, but again i need time to organise this, and i dont even have my car atm, if the bracket he makes me is good, i will see if he is keen on making some side cash and make some for the SF owners here

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn177/lowridermagna/12082009.jpg

yeah pretty much how you described. i take it yours also looked like mine?
did you notice any improvement in the topend breathing?

Holy ***** **** ***** ****** ***** the ******* holes dont even line up at all! That looks terrible!! Since I've had the 3.5 engine in my car my prototype SF #00 has been sitting in the shed. The other week I was looking at it with the gasket and it matches up nicely. Not sure what the hell happened to that manifold :|

Thinking of doing some further intake testing with the SF and the POD/HEATSHIELD combo once I have another ECU. Might post it up but it might be a while :-/

The other week I was looking at my prototype SF #00 with the gasket and it matches up nicely. Not sure what the hell happened to that manifold.

thats because like me you have a prototype that was made by EZBOY they are a much better quality product. IMO

cheers luke

yes, well hopfully i can fix it, to make it into a quality product. lol
not sure what i can do about the areas that need material to be filled in
bluetack mabey? lol

Hey when i had my isuzu trooper, the head got a crack between 3rd and 4th cylinder, and a chip came off. The local alloy works place simply used the tig to "build it up again" then i had it planed. maybe you could do the same here, tig weld some alloy on then shape down to suit.

Yep, you need alu specific blue tac. Check in to Russian websites and you should be able to find some. Honestly!
I didn't need filling, just tooling off. Never drove it before it was modded, so can't say.


yeah pretty much how you described. i take it yours also looked like mine?
did you notice any improvement in the topend breathing?

Hey when i had my isuzu trooper, the head got a crack between 3rd and 4th cylinder, and a chip came off. The local alloy works place simply used the tig to "build it up again" then i had it planed. maybe you could do the same here, tig weld some alloy on then shape down to suit.

might look into it, if its too hard ill leave it

I wouldn't' worry too much about filling it in, if it's a small area. You would rather a step down rather then a step up where the two surfaces meet.

it will be a step up tho

Lowrider's SF has a small obstructive step there and rectifying it would be beneficial. How much, is debatable of course.
Going from smaller to larger tube (with a step) is theoretically less damaging, but the other way around it will definitely cause some unwanted turbulences.
But as you say, it's a small area and might not be worth the trouble.
Lowrider should do his best and be happy with that.


I wouldn't' worry too much about filling it in, if it's a small area. You would rather a step down rather then a step up where the two surfaces meet.

Ahh yes, you guys are right, I was picturing it the wrong way around, but as Killer said if it's a small step not too much to worry about. Having said that, you can get filler compounds to fill metal surfaces that once set, will be hard as metal. You can then sand/grind it down to suit, thats if you can be bothered.

I'm looking for a WideBand AFR gauge to do small TP on-road testing and tuning, with the Interceptor ECU.

Me too!! :badgrin: If I can sort my knock sensor out, I'll give you a loan of it to help you tune up. PM me your email address and I'll shoot you over the map (dodgy perhaps) that was done for me when my AWD was supposedly 132wk atw!

Thanks for the feedback on your modded SF. Was like night and day on my car, but so many others had less enlightening experiences.

Certainly wondering if this is a 3L winner? :/

Here is the last SF I shipped out, the manifold was "quickly" matched to the gasket, it should have been an improvement in every way over the standard SF item, however owner said it didn't really drive any different to stock in his particular case. EZ may have more info over time on it as the owner live not that far from him.

Pic wasn't the best as I should have had the gasket sitting on it for reference.

This is SF13

http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/4067/portededited.jpg (http://img692.imageshack.us/i/portededited.jpg/)

When mine was 'tuned' there was a solid amount of spark advance applied, wondering if a touch more advance is needed that the std ecu can't deliver to get the fire going since there's more air entering (in my opinion ;) ). Laptop and a quick drive....

I think Al ended up with quite a lot of low end advance as well for his best outcome - sure I read that somewhere in the forum

... you have my e-mail address....:facejump:
I got your tune maps and the Ign looks reeeally wild, erratic IMO. Few deg of Retard at one spot then jumps to several deg of Advance on the next. Looks scary....
Fuel map was more rational and made me relax after the initial shock :woot:

I'm in process of obtaining a WB AFR gauge - might take a week or 2, cos having a small hol end of this week. Driving up to a place near you, at the water, at a bay...
If only the MorisTech Interceptor came with a wire for Magna's own Oxy sensor, cos the SoftWare has a window for AFR. But trying to get any after-sale help from MT is juuust too difficult.... Obv OEM Oxy doesn't work on all loads, but it would be nice to see the stuff, since I have the SW and Notebook.

Can't explain why some engines react to SF so differently. Sure engine cc affects the air resonance a bit. But intakes and exhausts - hmmm, don't think so Tim (says Al).
Perhaps worn cam in my donk helps haha! Cos apparently SF doesn't suit a cammed donk?

Could somebody turn the damn heater off! Trying to cut grass in this 30+ heat is just too much for an old bart like me!



Me too!! :badgrin: If I can sort my knock sensor out, I'll give you a loan of it to help you tune up. PM me your email address and I'll shoot you over the map (dodgy perhaps) that was done for me when my AWD was supposedly 132wk atw!

Thanks for the feedback on your modded SF. Was like night and day on my car, but so many others had less enlightening experiences.

Certainly wondering if this is a 3L winner? :/