I have a TS V6 Advance and the front suspension seems very rattley when I hit bumps in the road, is this normal or do the strutts need replacing, cheers...Dean

If it's rattling sounds like shocks

Where abouts you in NSW mate? Welcome to AMC!!!

my KR V6 verada was pretty rattly when i got it 2 years ago, and still drives okay now although the shocks are really worn out and its a bit more rattly now. (just as long as you dont drive it like a rally car, it's not too bad).

i would only bother getting expensive suspension stuff done if you are planning to keep the car for 5 years or more. im saving up for a small fuel efficient hatchback, so i dont really care what the verada sounds like

If it's rattling sounds like shocks

Where abouts you in NSW mate? Welcome to AMC!!!

Hi Buddy, thanks for the welcome to AMC, I'm in Bathurst, where abouts are you mate? cheers Dean

Hi mate, thanks for your reply, I also have a KR Verada and its a bit clunky to in the front, thats what made me think its just a common thing with them but wasn't sure. cheers



my KR V6 verada was pretty rattly when i got it 2 years ago, and still drives okay now although the shocks are really worn out and its a bit more rattly now. (just as long as you dont drive it like a rally car, it's not too bad).

i would only bother getting expensive suspension stuff done if you are planning to keep the car for 5 years or more. im saving up for a small fuel efficient hatchback, so i dont really care what the verada sounds like

theres a million things that can be 'rattley' in the front. worn bushes, worn bearrings, dead shocks, worn ball joints, worn strut tops, loost strut tops, worn swaybar bushes, soft springs.

you need to weed then out one by one. open the door and stand on the sill. jump on the car violently for a couple of seconds. jump off and count the rebounds of the shocks. 4 or more generally means your shocks are rooted.

if the shocks seem fine jack up and remove the front wheels and use a screwdriver to apply pressure to bush housings. apply small amounts of pressue. if you have movement that shows worn bushes (excessive movement or very easy compression0 then it's likely that the bushes are worn and need replacing.

to check wheel bearrings, jack up and leave front wheels attached. hold wheel at top and bottom and attempt to shake. do this in the horizontal left-to-right. there should be no movement in the hub. if there is movement, grab yourself a 32mm socket and attempt to tighten the CV joint bolt. if thisis tight and there is still movement, you're up for new bearrings @ $108 each.

if it's your strut tops, just grab a 2nd hand pair from the wreckers.

all the best and welcome to AMC

PS; to check ball joints, use a ball joint separator tool to separate the hub from the lower control arm. the ball joint should be stiff. if it is soft and very easy to move around, it is gamaged and needs to be replaced. replace as pair. $24/ea.

also, check your brake calipers are attached tightly. sometimes these can come loose and rattle while driving. tighten this and recheck:)

Another source of clunks, as I learnt from my 3L auto TS @ 235,000 Km, is wear on the tie rods where they join the steering rack. Its a ball joint hidden under the rubber bellows. Replacing these cured clunks on my car. Easy it identify, jack up the front and try to move the wheels themselves by hand left and right. If there is play look for movement of the rod near the boot while moving the wheel. About $45 each from Repco but the steering box has to come out to replace them. Boots are about $13 each. Probably torn anyway.
I don't have any noise from worn shocks or bushes even though they are the originals.