Hey all, I have a quick problem for you..

My TR's battery finally gave up the ghost today, but that is the least of my worries.. As I jumped in the car to leave work, I got the dreaded "Roor, roor, roor", of the battery not being able to turn the car over..

Now, I made my way to supercrap and got myself a new battery, went back to the car and installed it.. It looked all good as I had all lights and power.. Then when I went to start it, nothing.. I thought it may have been low on charge, so I swapped it with the battery from my wifes car (known to be working as it was the car we were in) and still nothing.. The new supercrap battery starts my wifes car (VS Commo) easily..

I have checked all relays, fuses, wiring etc and nothing is blown/loose/out of place..

What the hell else could it be??.. If it is the starter, then it picked a bloody good time to die outright, and I have never had a problem with it at any other time..

Can anyone else shed some light on the situation??.. Any help/direction would be greatly appreciated..

have you tried tapping the starter with a hammer whilst cranking? if this works for you then it'll be yer brushes and or armature

have you tried tapping the starter with a hammer whilst cranking? if this works for you then it'll be yer brushes and or armature
I second that, from experience. Actually I have brand new set of Brushes here, KR got written off before I could install them.

use sandpaper on the battery terminals both on the car and on the actuall battery. ensure there is a tight connection. sometimes the vehicle terminals can be oxidised which will cause it not to start properly.

I second that, from experience. Actually I have brand new set of Brushes here, KR got written off before I could install them.

Tried the tapping today.. The best I got was a faint turning of the starter (as if the battery was just about dead).. The battery used was a know working, charged one, so my assumption now would be a dead starter..




use sandpaper on the battery terminals both on the car and on the actuall battery. ensure there is a tight connection. sometimes the vehicle terminals can be oxidised which will cause it not to start properly.


Tried that, to no avail..

takes about 15 minutes to get starter out & change brushes.

takes about 15 minutes to get starter out & change brushes.


15 mins to pull it out of a 2.6??.. Ok so what is the best way to get it out?.. From above or below??.. Also, what is the ballpark figure on replacement brushes??..

Is the car an automatic? If so, the fault could be the inhibitor switch (the switch that stops it from starting if it is not in neutral or park). If it is only slightly out of adjustment, you may just have to jiggle the shift lever a bit.

15 mins to pull it out of a 2.6??.. Ok so what is the best way to get it out?.. From above or below??.. Also, what is the ballpark figure on replacement brushes??..

sorry mine is ...was 3.0litre V6

Is the car an automatic? If so, the fault could be the inhibitor switch (the switch that stops it from starting if it is not in neutral or park). If it is only slightly out of adjustment, you may just have to jiggle the shift lever a bit.

this is incorrect. The situation the OP is describing is a slow, lumbered attempt to kick over. an inhibitor switch fault would cause it to not turn at all, cutting power to the starter motor. it wouldnt also emit a buzzing sound to alert you that you are in gear.

OP, on the 2.6 it's a PITA. is accessible from both up top and underneath. i pref. under. just need to remove the bolts supporting it to the gearbox obviously ater removing wiring (ensure the battery is removed at this point, there's a big live wire going directly to the starter that you dont want touching the body) it's just a case of manoevering the bastard out of it's spot. it's tricky but once you do it it's easy. reason being there's a bracket that supports the inlet manifold which also supports the interim shaft to the passenger wheel. ultimately, it'd be best to remove the bracket, remove the starter and do it all back up but that'd take longer and would make you quite mad due to the placement of bolts etc.

this is incorrect. The situation the OP is describing is a slow, lumbered attempt to kick over. an inhibitor switch fault would cause it to not turn at all, cutting power to the starter motor. it wouldnt also emit a buzzing sound to alert you that you are in gear.

OP, on the 2.6 it's a PITA. is accessible from both up top and underneath. i pref. under. just need to remove the bolts supporting it to the gearbox obviously ater removing wiring (ensure the battery is removed at this point, there's a big live wire going directly to the starter that you dont want touching the body) it's just a case of manoevering the bastard out of it's spot. it's tricky but once you do it it's easy. reason being there's a bracket that supports the inlet manifold which also supports the interim shaft to the passenger wheel. ultimately, it'd be best to remove the bracket, remove the starter and do it all back up but that'd take longer and would make you quite mad due to the placement of bolts etc.

Actually didnt the OP say he put the new battery in and NOTHING happened? Could very well be the inhibitor switch

Tried the tapping today.. The best I got was a faint turning of the starter (as if the battery was just about dead).. The battery used was a know working, charged one, so my assumption now would be a dead starter..

it wouldnt turn at all because the switch would cut power

;1161473']Actually didnt the OP say he put the new battery in and NOTHING happened? Could very well be the inhibitor switch

Sorry mate... I probably didn't word that as well as I could have, but yeah, it's definately the starter..




OP, on the 2.6 it's a PITA. is accessible from both up top and underneath. i pref. under. just need to remove the bolts supporting it to the gearbox obviously ater removing wiring (ensure the battery is removed at this point, there's a big live wire going directly to the starter that you dont want touching the body) it's just a case of manoevering the bastard out of it's spot. it's tricky but once you do it it's easy. reason being there's a bracket that supports the inlet manifold which also supports the interim shaft to the passenger wheel. ultimately, it'd be best to remove the bracket, remove the starter and do it all back up but that'd take longer and would make you quite mad due to the placement of bolts etc.


Yeah I have decided to go from underneath.. Doing it from up top seems too fiddly and I honestly think there would be too much to remove to make the job easier.. Cheers for the tips mate..