hi i have a 96 te magna , auto , 3.0L , so when im driving along the revs go up a little and then back down again not for long , any idears , thanks

hi i have a 96 te magna , auto , 3.0L , so when im driving along the revs go up a little and then back down again not for long , any idears , thanks

REALLY gonna need more info than that. Could be you putting your foot down, then letting off the acellerator again.

When does it do it? Between gear changes? Checked transmission fluid? Engine oil? Coolant?

Does the car speed up when this happens or do you just notice the tacho needle going up and back down?

Does the car speed up when this happens or do you just notice the tacho needle going up and back down?

the car speeds up a little , not putting the foot down just at a constant speed it will rev a little higher and hear the engine reving then will drop back not off the scale reving very slight up then down , full service has been done all levels are good box a little over full , thanks

Sounds like he's experiencing flaring between gear changes.

the car speeds up a little , not putting the foot down just at a constant speed it will rev a little higher and hear the engine reving then will drop back not off the scale reving very slight up then down , full service has been done all levels are good box a little over full , thanks

If it's when the car is changing gear, then your gearbox is slipping between gears, or flaring. An overfull gearbox will cause this.

If it's when the car is changing gear, then your gearbox is slipping between gears, or flaring. An overfull gearbox will cause this.

if it still flares after i get the oil level rite whats the next step new box ? thanks

i wouldnt jump to the worst case senario just yet.

torque converter lockup cutting in and out if the engine speed change is 200 rpm then thats likely at 60 kph in third or 80 kph in fourth yeah I bet thats it like maybe possibly

with these boxs, they do tend to change down on slight inclines even with no throttle input, due to sensor input. is there a particular time it does it? when engine is cold or hot? is there a noticible gear change or is it constant throttle, no change and it just revs for a second?

Lockup can be a bit erratic but once you have the engine hot and are doing 90 kph or higher for a few km it will stay locked up, but any incline or a twitch of the right foot and it will drop out again. Quite normal really.

with these boxs, they do tend to change down on slight inclines even with no throttle input, due to sensor input. is there a particular time it does it? when engine is cold or hot? is there a noticible gear change or is it constant throttle, no change and it just revs for a second?


dose it when its hot , ah the is no change will be in top gear goin 80kms and just revs for a second and go back to normal ?

with these boxs, they do tend to change down on slight inclines even with no throttle input, due to sensor input. is there a particular time it does it? when engine is cold or hot? is there a noticible gear change or is it constant throttle, no change and it just revs for a second?

The 4 speed auto in my TL will hold 60km/h @ 1,200rpm going up a slight incline. This doesn't help the original poster.

Check the fluid level and colour. Flush if required.

The 4 speed auto in my TL will hold 60km/h @ 1,200rpm going up a slight incline. This doesn't help the original poster.

Check the fluid level and colour. Flush if required.

the fluid is clean i have driven around 500ks on the new oil , oh just to let you know i was told buy inderpendent to use vavoline max life full synthetic and thats what im using thanks

the fluid is clean i have driven around 500ks on the new oil , oh just to let you know i was told buy inderpendent to use vavoline max life full synthetic and thats what im using thanks

Mitsubishi Automatic Transmissions - are VERY picky in the fluid they will run.

was it doing its flare thing before you changed to valvoline?

Most people on here (me included) will strongly advise that you change back to the genuine mitsubishi auto trans fluid, very few people have had good results out of using non-genuine trans fluid.

The genuine Mits fluid, is cheap as well over the spare parts counter - i paid $35 bucks for the 5L bottle of the stuff.

Mitsubishi Automatic Transmissions - are VERY picky in the fluid they will run.

was it doing its flare thing before you changed to valvoline?

Most people on here (me included) will strongly advise that you change back to the genuine mitsubishi auto trans fluid, very few people have had good results out of using non-genuine trans fluid.

The genuine Mits fluid, is cheap as well over the spare parts counter - i paid $35 bucks for the 5L bottle of the stuff.

was doing it b4 i changed but might have been aftermarket oil as wel

Just had a quick browse of Valvoline's website, and it doesn't appear their fully synthetic automatic transmission oil is SP3 rated, which is what our auto gearboxes need. Infact, I couldn't see any automatic transmission fluid at all Valvoline make that is SP3 rated.

I would be flushing all that stuff out with genuine Mitsubishi fluid. Get yourself about 15 liters of the Mitsubishi stuff and do a good flush. After that, reset the ECU. Then do the re-learning procedures.

The 4 speed auto in my TL will hold 60km/h @ 1,200rpm going up a slight incline. This doesn't help the original poster.

Check the fluid level and colour. Flush if required.

If it changes down or not will depend on how the box is driven and what it has learnt the driver does, it does help as he had not explained fully when it was occuring so my post got him to define the exact problem. :happy:

If it's the 3.0 it could also be the intake manifold valves changing between short and long runners. My TS used to "flutter" at certain speeds and loads occasionaly.

Regards, Andrew.

If it's the 3.0 it could also be the intake manifold valves changing between short and long runners. My TS used to "flutter" at certain speeds and loads occasionaly.

Regards, Andrew.

can this be changed ? thanks