Hay all

My standard clutch is on its way out. I know i can pick up an heavy duty for $600. I was wondering if there was anywere someone knows that sell standard clutches for 2000 model 3.5l pull type clutch for under $600 but a good brand clutch.?

Thanks Kurt

Any spares shop worth their salt should be able to...

You will be very hard pressed to find a clutch at a spares shop for under $750. how old is your current clutch?
if it has reasonalbe throwout bearing and pres plate, you canjust replace the clutch plate and get the flywheel machined.

When I replaced the clutch on my Magna a few years ago, you could get RPM HD clutch kits for $500. They are basically a standard clutch with a 30% stronger pressure plate.

yeah, all the after market ones i looked at were 20 - 30% heavier than oem, and these were cheaper than standard ones, because normally if you wear out a oem clutch you then get a heavier clutch, therefore less market for oem replacement, therefore more costly and harder to find.

Ok everyone sorry but i sold my old car and got a 2000 model sports manual. But i wont even be thinking about getting a heavy duty clutch. Stock clutch isnt bad anyways.

whats wrong with a heavy duty clutch? what disadvantages do you get from it?

whats wrong with a heavy duty clutch? what disadvantages do you get from it?

If you put too hard of a clutch into a stock (or reasonably stock) drivetrain, you run the risk of damaging the gearbox/diff etc, due to the higher amounts of stress and shock being put through the system. I would rather have a clutch burn out rather then do a gearbox any day of the week.

if you can drive well, and not abuse your box, there is no dramas

If you put too hard of a clutch into a stock (or reasonably stock) drivetrain, you run the risk of damaging the gearbox/diff etc, due to the higher amounts of stress and shock being put through the system. I would rather have a clutch burn out rather then do a gearbox any day of the week.

oh wow realy? i didnt know that. are the 3l gearboxes very tough? also i have a problem. when i give my car a bit of a go sometimes i try get it to third and it wont go in the first time. it feels like the gates not open? any ideas? whats broken or on its way out.? oh and when i do get it into gear it makes a crunch sound?

sounds like the syncro is on its way out, some ppl have extended the life/improved the quality. of their syncros by doing a oil change, and using genuine oil, as again mitsubishi boxes auto and manual are fussy with their oils. kinda odd tho, i was under the impression that 2nd gear is the most common gear to have a stuffed syncro

sounds like the syncro is on its way out, some ppl have extended the life/improved the quality. of their syncros by doing a oil change, and using genuine oil, as again mitsubishi boxes auto and manual are fussy with their oils. kinda odd tho, i was under the impression that 2nd gear is the most common gear to have a stuffed syncro

yeah ive heard of second going to its strange. it only occasionaly happens when i realy get up it. very strange. is getting it replaced expensive?

yeah ive heard of second going to its strange. it only occasionaly happens when i realy get up it. very strange. is getting it replaced expensive?

Its probably because its the most abused gear, replacing the syncro's would not be cheap. Would be better with a full reco'ed box at a guess.

I've also heard that the flexing of the engine mounts puts the selector linkages in a difficult position to shift into 3rd.

I've also heard that the flexing of the engine mounts puts the selector linkages in a difficult position to shift into 3rd.

Wow... Never thought bout that, my gears are sometimes harder to put in with clutch fully pressed in... Most of the time my car has had a broken mount... So this must be why LOL.

Also... My synchro is goin in 5th gear...?! :nuts: Gotta put it in in nice and low revs for it to not 'crunch'.

I remember chisholm talking about it on his car on OCAU, difficulty with quick 3rd gear changes at the drags. From memory its a noted problem on Mazda MPS3's and some people put a solid rear mount in to counter it.

Guys,
Can we please stay on topic,

I will for the benefit of the members answer a few questions but lets leave it at that, if you know of a cheaper unit let the OP know, anything further belongs in another thread

Kits, Exedy are a little over $600, depending on which plate you have ie 230 or 240mm disk

Using a heavire pressure plate does not always change the drivability of the car as the exedy used in the above example still have a nice pedal feel

Mounts will not alter your selector position as the bracket for the cables is also attached to the box. Your engine would need to move so far to make a difference it is not feasable

Selectors are a big thing with all boxes due to people having the bad habit of resting hands on gearshifts while driving, this will cause significant wear of the syncro ring on the box

Guys,
Can we please stay on topic,

I will for the benefit of the members answer a few questions but lets leave it at that, if you know of a cheaper unit let the OP know, anything further belongs in another thread

Kits, Exedy are a little over $600, depending on which plate you have ie 230 or 240mm disk

Using a heavire pressure plate does not always change the drivability of the car as the exedy used in the above example still have a nice pedal feel

Mounts will not alter your selector position as the bracket for the cables is also attached to the box. Your engine would need to move so far to make a difference it is not feasable

Selectors are a big thing with all boxes due to people having the bad habit of resting hands on gearshifts while driving, this will cause significant wear of the syncro ring on the box

not to mention resting your foot on the clutch pedal

Selectors are a big thing with all boxes due to people having the bad habit of resting hands on gearshifts while driving, this will cause significant wear of the syncro ring on the box

hummm this one sounds reasonable. i didnt no resting your hand on the gear stick can do this. Thanks

I had a shocking "crunchy" synchro, esp on 2nd gear, but also a little bit on third.

Had gearbox oil changed locally - this helped a bit but still quite bad.

Then I was shown a tube of Nulon Manual Gearbox treatment - its about 125ml of product and a plain-looking black and white packaging..... looks a bit like a tube of Dencorub etc - a fairly wide lid. Might be called "GT70" or somesuch, but definately made by Nulon. Auto shops sell it, so does my local K-Mart (where it was cheaper - about $13- to $17- depending where you buy).

While it hasn't absolutely cured my 'crunchy' synchro problems, this goop has tamed them beyond belief. Very Very impressed by what one tube of stuff could do. I actually paid to have mine added during a rego inspection (I'm a lazy bugger!), but could be done by DIY, probably need ramps to get access?

EDIT: To remain slightly on-topic, I had a clutch from the Mitsi Clearance place in Adelaide - but traded it to another member.

I had a shocking "crunchy" synchro, esp on 2nd gear, but also a little bit on third.

Had gearbox oil changed locally - this helped a bit but still quite bad.

Then I was shown a tube of Nulon Manual Gearbox treatment - its about 125ml of product and a plain-looking black and white packaging..... looks a bit like a tube of Dencorub etc - a fairly wide lid. Might be called "GT70" or somesuch, but definately made by Nulon. Auto shops sell it, so does my local K-Mart (where it was cheaper - about $13- to $17- depending where you buy).

While it hasn't absolutely cured my 'crunchy' synchro problems, this goop has tamed them beyond belief. Very Very impressed by what one tube of stuff could do. I actually paid to have mine added during a rego inspection (I'm a lazy bugger!), but could be done by DIY, probably need ramps to get access?

EDIT: To remain slightly on-topic, I had a clutch from the Mitsi Clearance place in Adelaide - but traded it to another member.

where do i get this from and how hard is it to do diy? thanks

Auto parts stores (Repco, Bursons, SupaCheap, AutoOne, Auto Barn), my KMart had it in Auto section. Was near teh Nulon and Wynns type additives, but packaging is different - its like a tube of Dencorub, sits upright on a wide lid. Tube is white with mostly black graphics etc.

The stuff is a cream/yellow colour and fairly thick. You just have to squeeze contents of the tube into gearbox thru the oil fill-up bung...... so you need car on hoist or ramps (I assume) to get access to that.

Workshop manuals should show you where the bung for adding gear oil is.

NOTE WELL: This stuff is MANUAL gearbox additive. Nulon brand, called something like "GT70 Manual Gearbox Treatment".

EDIT: Cut-n-Paste from Nulon website:

<< Nulon Manual Gearbox & Diff. Treatment (G70) with polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) will help provide smoother, easier gear changes, especially when cold. G70 reduces noise and wear, and extends manual gearbox and diff life. G70 is compatible with all lubricants including synthetic gear oils and automatic transmission oils used in gearboxes.
Nulon Manual Gearbox and Diff Treatment with PTFE offers maximum lubrication and anti-wear protection to the gear and bearing surfaces of all types of gears (helical, spur and worm drive). Nulon G70 combines a balanced blend of Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) with other extreme pressure and anti-corrosion compounds. Nulon G70 is suitable for use with all synchromesh rings and limited slip differentials.

The PTFE particles in Nulon G70 range from .4 to 40 microns. The smaller particles, when subjected to pressure and temperature, impregnate the friction surfaces thus reducing friction and offering residual lubrication and corrosion resistance even during lay-up periods. The larger PTFE particles circulate with the normal gear lubricant and create a cushion between gear surfaces, dramatically reducing gear pitting. This cushioning effect is important in that it reduces noise caused by minor irregularities of mating surfaces which are responsible for the very common "period noise" experienced in differentials.

Many modern gearboxes suffer from poor gear shifting when the gearbox is cold. As a result a number of manufacturers are recommending a lighter grade of oil, and in some cases automatic transmission fluid. These lighter grade oils provide superior gear changing at the expense of reduced life of gears and bearings, because the lower viscosity oil does not have the degree of EP (extreme pressure) protection. Nulon G70, due to its EP characteristics, will greatly improve protection as well as dramatically improve gear changes.

Note: G70 is suitable for all gearboxes including passenger cars, trucks and industrial gearboxes.

G70 is also compatible with, and suitable for use with, automatic transmission fluid and engine oils, where they are the manufacturer's recommended lubricant for manual gearboxes.

Benefits:
Reduced friction and wear
Smoother gear changes
Quieter operation
Extended component life
Reduced oil leaks
Improved extreme pressure protection
Residual lubrication during lay-up periods
Corrosion protection
Reduced operating temperature
Reduced energy consumption in industrial gearboxes
Directions for Use:
Simply add required amount of G70 (according to application rate chart) to the gearbox or differential.
Repeat application with each oil change.

Application Rates:
Up to 8 litres (8 quarts) oil - Add 125 ml (4.23 US fl oz) per 2 litres (2 quarts)
Over 8 litres (8 quarts) oil - Add 500 ml (17 US fl oz) + 3% by volume thereafter.

====>> Warning: Do not use G70 in automatic transmissions. <<======

Note: Nulon G70 is suitable for use in Laycock overdrive units as used in MGs and Triumphs.

>>>> paste ends

You could also try Dextron III ATF. as strange as this sounds it's what I use in my TF wagon's TH 5sp box and I've never had a problem, I have also used it at work in gearboxes to help get a bit more life out of worn syncros with good sucess, (its also the factory fluid in late model Holden Rodeos and 5sp falcon boxes...)

I also have a Modified Excede HD clutch in the wagon, clucth is only slightly heiver than standard and I can chirp 3rd gear now no probs at all, I purchased it from Currajong Brake and Clutch, cost roughly 800 bickies but was well worth it, It was built by a guy who was working for Excede but has gone out on his own and buys clutches from excede and up's the pressure, mines 50% heiver than standard...

You could also try Dextron III ATF. as strange as this sounds it's what I use in my TF wagon's TH 5sp box and I've never had a problem, I have also used it at work in gearboxes to help get a bit more life out of worn syncros with good sucess, (its also the factory fluid in late model Holden Rodeos and 5sp falcon boxes...)

All Commodores fitted with the T56 manual gearbox run Dextron III auto fluid. It's due to a mineral found in most manual gearbox oils that eats away at the synchros in these boxes.

They use ATF in the T6066 and some T5's as well.

All Commodores fitted with the T56 manual gearbox run Dextron III auto fluid. It's due to a mineral found in most manual gearbox oils that eats away at the synchros in these boxes.

hence why you should use mitsubishi reccomended manual box oil, as this was takin into account
EDIT: or any recomended aftermarket oil that is GL4 rated, GL5 eats at the syncros.

thats no good you woulkd think after market is better