ok well 1 hour ago i installed some ct genrals on the fronts

took it for a couple lates round the block and when i came to the lastr lap i noticed that i had to put my foot in futher for it to brake
(there was also weird spelling stuff that was ONLY coming from the front right caliper/brake pads)
...

is this because they are new?
is it because i didn't tighten the bolts up enough?

help please !!!

Oh dude you bumped your own thread after 9 minutes, calm down.

My usual stance with this brakes is, if you don't know how to fix it and you don't know someone that does, don't listen to internet advice and take it to a mechanic ASAP. If your brakes mess up, you will hurt people. Don't leave people's lives in the hands of armchair mechanics over the internet.

I found my Bendix GCT's to have a little bit of play in the pedal when first installed (and they still do 6,000km later), but not too much... I'd be checking with whomever installed them. You will have to wear them in because they are new, but that will be increased stopping time, not play in the pedal.

re bleed the brakes and try again

ok well 1 hour ago i installed some ct genrals on the fronts

took it for a couple lates round the block and when i came to the lastr lap i noticed that i had to put my foot in futher for it to brake
(there was also weird spelling stuff that was ONLY coming from the front right caliper/brake pads)
...

is this because they are new?
is it because i didn't tighten the bolts up enough?

What does this mean? What is spelling?

Did you bleed after putting the pads in? Did you ensure the pads were in contact with the discs when you were finished?

sorry when i said "weird spelling" i meant smelling and when i wrote "lates around the block" i meant laps , my bad , ohh shit >< what do you mean by bleeding?

sorry when i said "weird spelling" i meant smelling and when i wrote "lates around the block" i meant laps , my bad , ohh shit >< what do you mean by bleeding?

Dude, if you don't know what bleeding the brakes are, take it to a mechanic, preferably on a flatbed, before you hurt someone.

now hold on, if you followed the manual and just used a G clamp to push the caliper piston back into the caliper to accomodate the new pads, without releasing the nipple and just letting fluid flow back to the resevoir, then you dont need to bleed as no air was introduced to the system. if you released the nipple to allow the caliper to retract then they need to be bled. if you did the work your self, go through and double check all bolts, the position of the pads, fluid level etc. If you bled them yourself, did you do it with the engine running? thats a must. if someone else did then see them or a mechanic if you have reason to doubt thier work.

i did the push back with the g clamp

drove the car few minutes ago for a bit more wear in and it seems too be fine now ... im going to say a bit of air bubbles WERE in the line

drove the car few minutes ago for a bit more wear in and it seems too be fine now ... im going to say a bit of air bubbles WERE in the line

1) You take the brake fluid reservoir cap off when installing new pads as your pushing the fluid up the lines (when you push the pistons back)
2) Air does not dissipate from brake fluid.
3) That is why you bleed them, to get the air out.
4) Take it to a mechanic to get them to check it over. If you have air in the system (somehow) that can be VERY bad.

Agreed, if there was air in there then it still is. yeah and take cap off lol lol. i remember on a honda legend i had, i bled the brakes without the car running, shocking result!! and then when i realised and started the car, i released the nipple and got a shot of fluid/air mix to the face!! but hey i was young!!

now hold on, if you followed the manual and just used a G clamp to push the caliper piston back into the caliper to accomodate the new pads, without releasing the nipple and just letting fluid flow back to the resevoir, then you dont need to bleed as no air was introduced to the system. if you released the nipple to allow the caliper to retract then they need to be bled. if you did the work your self, go through and double check all bolts, the position of the pads, fluid level etc. If you bled them yourself, did you do it with the engine running? thats a must. if someone else did then see them or a mechanic if you have reason to doubt thier work.

Why is that?

Why is that?
build up pressure in the vacuum system. no vacuum no power.

I had to do this in my old volvo, but is it scary that when i had no fluid in the lines that it braked better then my old camry?

Bleeding isnt hard at all, as long as you have a friend to help, it is a lot easier! So if you have a mate that has the know how, i would get them to help you.

Volvo's have awesome brakes, my parents had a 240dl think stopped like a racecar