Hi, I am considering attempting to install some custom electrics in my TS magna, and I am trying to gather all the information before I buy anything.
My question is when I need to connect something to a positive terminal (will be in up behind the kick panel) where do I connect to? I'm guessing I dont just keep checking till I find a wire that is positive and splice in.
I'm more used to doing wiring on boats where there are positive and ground terminals in the console that everything can be connected to to save using multiple wires back to the battery, is there anything like this in a car? (maybe around the fuse box or something?... I have noticed that whoever installed my cd player seems to have run it thru the interior lighting fuse.

Any help would be greatly appreciated...
(would rather not hear any comments saying if I dont know enough about cars then I should pay a professional because I would rather the learning experience over forking out more $$$)

Thanks

If it an amp/sub it needs to go through the firewall. above the drivers footwell
Or if it just needs a postive connection, connect it to the back of the ciggy lighter or any where were theres a positve wire

Beware of piggybacking off the cigarette lighter. Depending on the accessory you may pull more current than the wiring can handle. For custom electrics I have found that a good way of doing this is to use a "bus bar" which is a brass strip with multiple screw terminals along its length. These are usually about 6" long and can be bought at most electrical wholesalers. Use two of them. One for power and one for earth. Hook up to power one of two ways depending on whether you want constant or switched power and fuse them with the large fuses used in stereo amp installations. Power can be taken either directly from the battery for constant power or from the rear of the fuse box (drivers footwell) by splicing and soldering to the accessory feed.

Would a bus bar really need an earth terminal? we use them in boats but thats because the whole boat is not earthed like I thought a car is.
Probably wont go for bus bars in this case, its not an amp and I would like to avoid running wires from the battery.

Now, the one at the rear of the fuse box, is it connected directly to the battery, like a positive bus bar?... also, does it have charge when the keys arent in?

Thanks

Fuse box in the drivers seat has both constant and switched power.

Pretzil
Only suggested one for earth to make a tidier install. I use them for custom wiring to lessen multiple tapping at the rear of the fusebox.
Depending on what your installing determines whether your feed is constant or accessory controlled.

Okay cool thanks, whats the best way to splice into the fuse box?, I will put in an inline fuse aswell during the install but is there any way to utilize an unused fuse space in the fuse box?... without too much work :P

Thanks

Tried to use one of the empty spaces but too much bother. Need to have a second one you can rat the fuse holder terminals from and is PITA to solder into fusebox internal bus bar. Easiest way is to cut back the insulation (10mm) of the power feed you want then separate the strands carefully so you make a hole similar to the eye of a needle. Poke the wire of the accessory you want to power through the hole wrap tightly solder and insulate. I dont advocate crimp terminals for this aspect cause I have seen too many failures.

What are you actually running?

Was considering remote central locking, well atm more just thinking, if i did it how would I go about it.

On that note, in a 2nd gen, when the drivers door is locked, all the other doors lock at the same time, does this mean that I could get away with only installing an actuator in the drivers door?

Thanks

Have done remote central locking on my TS. 1st thing to check is to lock the doors from the passenger side. If all lock you dont need an actuator for the drivers door. Proceed as follows: Remove Kick Plate from drivers side and below the fusebox you will find a relay. This is the door lock relay. All you need is the remote locking kit from Autobarn, Supercheap or where ever without door actuators if you can get one. Control box has two wires usually called pulse wires. One is unlock one is lock. These go to the relay under the fuse box. You will need to probe the car relay with a test lead to check for the corresponding two wires. Hook up the wires from the remote control box to these and you have remote central locking. Remote control box usually has another wire often yellow. This is the one that flashes your parkers when you push the remote button. If you want to flash your parkers run this wire to the hazard switch and probe till you get both lights to flash.

Thanks for that, I didnt think the locking would be electronic in a TS, but if it is that sounds good,
Pushing down the nob on the passenger side does not lock all the doors but locking with the key on the passenger side does, is that what you mean?

When you say to probe the relay with a test lead what do you mean, just any lead with a positive voltage?

Thanks

Locking with key on passengers side means you have actuators on all 4 doors. If I get a chance will pull the kick panel off and get you the colour codes for the relay. You actually probe with an earth wire for the two correct ones as they switch the earth side.

pretzil

relay you want for door locks is MB685019 located directly below the fuse box. Lock trigger wire is Black with a red trace and Unlock trigger wire is Black with a blue trace. They are negative triggers ie: they earth out to operate. Most remote alarms have a negative lock/unlock feature to enable remote central locking so it is just a matter of wiring up the correct wires. Hope this helps.

Neil

Sounds to me like you already have central locking, just no remote. Probably just need to find the electric trigger.

lathiat
Most TS Execs only have keyed central locking. If you use a keyless remote module wired to the above relay as described you get remote central locking.

Hey, thanks for all the info on the remote central locking phonetech/Neil, I've been around to the local auto stores to check out the remote kits they have, supercheap and repco only seem to have the kits with actuators and full security systems. Autobarn had the individual kits and the kits with actuators, which were actually alot cheaper. Jaycar had kits for an alright price but the guy in the store was quick to point out that it had '8 leads' because it was for a certain brand kit.

My question is, what remote kit did you go with when you installed your remote central locking?
And, did it have alot more wires then you needed and you just had to find the ones that grounded when the buttons were pressed?, then splice those 2 into the relay wires?

Thanks heaps

Pretzil

I used one from autobarn. Was a complete kit with actuators which I didnt use. Ask if you can have a look at the wiring diagram and see if it has two leads marked negative pulse or similar. One is for open one is for close. Jaycars LR8839 kit is also fairly good too.

Neil

Thanks again for the help... Sorry for asking so many questions...
I went round to autobarn etc and it seems that all the diagrams are basically the same (This 1 is from the rapid electronics website):

http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/3018/remotecdlmanual2.jpg

None of them seem to show anything about what each wire does... So I am thinking I will just get the jaycar one and play around with a power box and a circuit tester to see if any ground out when buttons are pressed... Unless anyone knows what each wire does?

Thanks heaps

Pretzil

The white and brown leads that go to the door actuator (the one with 5 leads) are the ones you want. If kit has different colours it is the two coming from that actuator back to the control box. One opens the other closes. Run them to the relay wires I described in previous post. If door locks when you press unlock button then just swap them around.

Neil

Hey, I have just bought the Jaycar (LR8839) one you recommended Neil,
I have hooked it up (via alligator clips for now),
I used the red+black trace wire that goes into the relay as my positive, and the bolt it is bolted to as positive.
I hooked the brown and white wires from the remote unit to the two wires you showed me.
When I press the lock unlock buttons on the remote I can hear something inside the remote unit itself working, but the doors do nothing.

Is there anything you can recommend I try?, Do I need to do anything with the extra wires?

Thanks

Use a constant power feed from the fuse box or similar. What are the colours going to the door actuator with the 5 wires to it.You need to use the two wires that are NOT common to the other three door actuators. Is possible that mitsi have changed the colour code on the relay in the car. All I did was probe the relay with an earthed length of wire till i found the open and closed leads.

Yeah, the two you told me about did lock and unlock the doors when I probed them with ground.
The wires on the Jaycar set are red, black, white, brown, blue and green.
Blue and green are common to all doors on their layout so I have ignored them.
Black is only to the driver door but is also direct to ground.
The red one I hooked up to a wire I found going into the current lock relay and has constant power feed.
The brown and white ones seem to be the uncommon ones you are talking about, so I connected them to the two wires that un/lock the doors when grounded

Does this sound right?

Thanks

:bump:

I have hooked it up so that the remote reciever unit makes the same clicking noise when I manually un/lock the car, as it does when I press buttons on the remote, but it doesnt do anything to the car itself.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Did you sort it ?

I just put remote operation in HER car , already had electric locking , works like a charm !!!

Yeah, I got mine sorted, $70 kit from jaycar and it has a massive range, seriously, dont even need to be anywhere near the car, works from anywhere in the house :P
Its awesome, I love it.

Hey, btw, does yours still un/lock all doors when u use the key in the drivers door?

Yep , sure does .....

and , most importantly , SHE's happy :woot::woot:

Rly? Sure? How did you manage that? What kit did u use btw?

Sure I'm sure !!! and so is SWMBO !

It's a "Safeguard" central door locking system ; came with all the actuators etc that I didn't need ...

Hi Pretzil and or phonetech,

Mate, i just went and got the Jaycar keyless entry kit today and i am stuck.

Considering you just got this sorted recently on your TS with the same kit could you give me a tip on it.

Basically i have located the lock / unlock wires for the door central locking relay by grounding just as you did.
However when i connect the Brown and White wires from the jaycar control unit to the lock / unlock wires it wont work. The control unit does make the clicking sound but the doors dont lock / unlock.

Is it a matter of constant power feed?
as i did like you and connected to a constant feed from the door lock relay wires.

How did you actually get this working correctly?
I know this should be easy but i have just spent 2hours crouched down around the drivers kick panel to get this far and my back is killing me so the next time i go to finish this off i hope its not another hours crouching!

Dougs

Okay, Try using the blue and green wires instead of brown and white.
If you have connected the red and black wires correctly as well, the remote will work, unfortunately our way (mine and phonetechs) means that you have to use the remote to un/lock all the doors at once, the keyhole and using the tabs on the doors themselves will not pass thruout the other doors like it used to.

I think I started with the same mistake.
Good luck.

Thanks Pretzil,

I will have a go at the blue and green ( i recall phonetech mentioning to disregard these)

I had a go with the blue and green wires and found that they do trigger the lock/unlock in the doors as soon as i touched them to the wires from the central locking relay.

God i cant wait till its working properly will make my life alot easier.

Thanks mate!

Dougs

Yeah, it took alot of PM'ing with phonetech before we figured it out, one thing with the jaycar kit is an insane range,
Seriously, once its set up go inside the house or something (assuming no lead house or anything :P) and try it, mine works from anywhere in the house and pretty far down the road, its awesome.

Ha!

Yep agreed! After working on the car i locked it up and walked down to the local BP for some cigs which is down approx 60+ metres away (through a lane way and over a busy main road).
I had my keys in my pocket with all my loose change and must have bumped the transmitter button because when i returned to my car it was unlocked.

The range is remarkable but having said that the range could be considered a problem in that the buttons are really easy to press by accident.
Not to put a dampener on the kit because i like the long range it has.

It sure helps me out as when i pick up my fiance from her folks place i usually am holding all her bags and her little white dog whilst trying to unlock the car which after a while gets tricky.

Yes i have dropped the dog once or twice trying to juggle opening the doors!! :eek2:
Geez did i cop an earful when that happened!! :bowdown::flame::blah::soapbox::nutkick:

All good now!

Cheers

Yeah, the range worried me too, now Im paranoid about bumping the button when I get my wallet out in woolies, I find myself hitting the lock button every now and then just to be careful lol. At least its one of the remotes with a lock and an unlock button separately, I hate the single button type.

I am still considering wrapping the reciever antenner in something to try and reduce it, but at the moment I havnt had any problems, that is unless I have just been lucky to accidently hit the lock button last. Its another reason I havnt tried to make the lights flash when the buttons pressed, so it wont be as easy for ppl to notice a car suddenly unlocking in the middle of an empty carpark.

It does help that the lock button is much bigger than the unlock so its harder to accidently unlock.

Btw, it will help with the dog ay, especially since you can now probably unlock the car from inside the house before you even pick it up lol.

All sorted this morning.

Connected Blue and Green wiring to central locking relay and transmitter locks/unlocks doors as required (no more funny business)
Green wire from the remote kits goes to the black/blue traced wire for unlock and the Blue wire goes to the Black/red traced wire for lock.

I actually think i went wrong with the ground wires. in that there is an end for black ground wire off the remote locking kit thats to go to the drivers door actuator and from the same wire to go to a grounded point on the chassis.

I found that if i did not have both points of this black wire grounded to the chassis that operations of the remote were inconsistent in that unlock was working but lock was not.

I am just about to put some labels on the wiring diagram that came in the box so that if in case someone else get this kit to use with a TR/TS that they can go directly to these wires at the central locking relay and splice/solder them in without having to poke around as much.

Thanks

Awesome, glad to hear you got it sorted, but I dont understand what you were saying about the grounding wire.
For me, I just put a circular ring connection on the black wire from the remote unit and attached it to the bolt that the mitsu locking relay is fastened to.

Just out of curiosity, where did you mount the remote unit? I found a seemingly unused L shaped bracket really high up behind the dash.

Hi All,

For those of you that have a TR or TS without keyless remote central locking but do have normal central locking and who buy the Steel mate 386M Keyless remote central locking kit (i got it from Jaycar)
Here is a basic diagram for wiring up to the central locking control relay (found under the kick panel driver side)

This is just what worked for me and is a basic diagram only, no responsibility accepted by me as the particulars of your wiring maybe different.

Anyway below is what worked for me (note that other wires that i have not labeled i did not need to wire up)

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/album.php?albumid=285&pictureid=1533

I hope that this helps ppl with this kit and a TR or TS.

Thanks