Process can be used for

Installing a 'Windows Up' Module in 3rd Gen Magna (may be applicable to earlier models too)

This is an example video of it in action in Mohits car
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0S6EpzmhBmE

*Please follow this at your own risk. I worked this out myself, and am pretty new to car electronics. If there is a better way to do this tell me and ill try and update guide...I havn't actually completed this yet, but will be doing so some time next week...Questions Welcome

Tools/Equipment Required
-Screwdriver
-Stanly knife or blade
-Electrical Tape (Or heatshrink if you want to do an awesome job)
-Soldering Iron and Solder (If you want to do it properly, alternatively you can just tape it, but i wouldn't suggest you do this)
-Windows up Module (Can be found on ebay for approx $25)


Difficulty

Easy-Moderate

Estimated Completion Time

1-5 hours depending on complications/soldering skills

Steps

Step 1

Buy yourself a Windows up module. For this DIY, I used a 4 window standard one. But they come in other varieties such as: 2 windows, 4 windows with auto roll down 2 cm to let air in car, mirrors fold in, sunroof close etc

This is the one i bought:
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/7242/moduled.th.jpg (http://img24.imageshack.us/i/moduled.jpg/)

Once you have it, plug the supplied cables into the sockets of the module box.

Step 2

Print off a copy of this step for reference later on...
*NOTE: Magnas and Veradas power window looms are wired differently...

Power Windows Cable
| 1 | 2 | 3 |______| 4 | 5 | 6 |
| 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 |

Magna
1 - Brown with Green Trace (Rear Right)
2 - Yellow with Red Trace (Front Right - Drivers Door)
3 - Empty
4 - Blue (Unused for this DIY - but i think it is for child lock from memory)
5 - Blue with Red Trace (Front Left)
6 - Green with Blue Trace (Front Left)
7 - Green (Rear Right)
8 - Empty
9 - Blue (ACC)
10 - Black (Ground)
11 - Yellow with Black Trace (Front Right - Drivers Door)
12 - Brown with Blue Trace (Rear Left)
13 - Green with Blue Trace (Rear Left)

Verada (Thanks to mcs_xi)

Verada Door Loom

Colours needed (In Drivers Door Loom)

Factory Harness Colour - Used for - Connection Colours
Black - Earth - Connect black wire from window box
Blue/Red Trace - Door lock signal wire - Connect White wire at lower door loom
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Blue/Red Trace (larger guage at window switch plug) - Drivers window up wire - Cut wire & Connect Blue wire to the motor side and the Blue/White trace to the switch side

Brown/Yellow Trace - Front Left Up Wire - Cut wire & Connect Green wire to the motor side and the Green/White trace to the switch side

Brown/Blue Trace - Rear Right Up Wire - Cut wire & Connect Grey wire to the motor side and the Grey/White trace to the switch side

Brown/Yellow Trace - Rear Left Up Wire - Cut wire & Connect Yellow wire to the motor side and the Yellow/White trace to the switch side
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Red Wire from Box - Run through door to body tube and into the passenger compartment. Find a battery constant power source.

Brown Wire from box - Run through door to body tube and into the passenger compartment. Find a ACC only supplied power source. This enables the box to know when you are in the car to disable the Auto Up feature while the car is running.

Step 3

If you have a TL onwards remove center console area using a flathead screwdriver surrounded in a rag, it has 4 clips which you need to pop up. Take care with this...(refer to other guides on this forum for more details). Then disconnect the power window cable from underneath it (If you have a manual, you will also need to unscrew the top of the gear knob before you take the console out).

If you have an older model magna or a verada I think your windows buttons are located in the drivers door. Use your common sense to follow this DIY as best you can.

Step 4

Find a good place to bolt the Module. I put mine here.
http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/4835/06122009007.th.jpg (http://img190.imageshack.us/i/06122009007.jpg/)

Run the remote locking wire (in my case, the white cable) from the module through the center area to the footwell and leave it for now.
Run the rest of the cables under the gear stick to the power windows cable you pulled out before.

Step 5

Stip, solder and tape the cables according to what I wrote above and the instructions that came with your specific Module (I assume every module has different coloured cables coming from it)

When lining up the hole numbers with what i wrote above, look at it from this perspective:
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/9139/06122009006.th.jpg (http://img189.imageshack.us/i/06122009006.jpg/)

Depending on your module, you may need to run a +power cable from the battery to the module, I just tapped into mine from my airhorn.

There was also black tape wrapped around my cables to keep them together, i cut about 10cm's of it off to gain access to the wires (no need to remove it all)

Step 6
Undo the plastic under your steering wheel using a screwdriver to remove the screws (approx 5 screws).
http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/6584/06122009005.th.jpg (http://img200.imageshack.us/i/06122009005.jpg/)

Solder the remote locking wire you previously fed to footwell into pin 16 of your BEM/BCM (blue wire with red Trace)

Step 7
Test...Wind all 4 windows down then lock your car...If all works then replace all removed plastic and ur sweet...if not, then you or I have done something wrong :P

do they all go up at the same time? or does it do each window like mohit's one?? or does that just depend on the module you buy?

cos it's kinda gay having each window go up.. then pause.. then the next one..

yeahh same question and one of my windows is gowing slower (cbf cleaning the arm or replacing) will it addapt for this or does it just go up for a certain time?

do they all go up at the same time? or does it do each window like mohit's one?? or does that just depend on the module you buy?

cos it's kinda gay having each window go up.. then pause.. then the next one..

Don't know if you have ever tried or not but when I manually toggle all four switches, the windows wind up very slowly and the motors sounds strained. Its as if there isn't enough juice.

Won't mind knowing the wiring for the Veradas and how to remove the switch panel on the doors.

yeahh same question and one of my windows is gowing slower (cbf cleaning the arm or replacing) will it addapt for this or does it just go up for a certain time?
Have you tried cleaning the window and the rubber bits where they touch. Might help if you spray some silicon lube.

com on it's not that bad lol, i mean ofcourse there is a difference when all 4 are going up similtaniously.. but all 4 going up for 8 sec beats each ones taking 5 sec each.... i have a slightly bigger battery in mine (biggest that would fit).. possilby has more juice?

com on it's not that bad lol, i mean ofcourse there is a difference when all 4 are going up similtaniously.. but all 4 going up for 8 sec beats each ones taking 5 sec each.... i have a slightly bigger battery in mine (biggest that would fit).. possilby has more juice?

I've got a 600CCA battery.

true... then i don't know why yours is slower than Paris Hilton... mine is slower... but nothing rediculous... maybe you can upgrade the wiring and use a relay to a feed on the battery, like what alot of people do with the starter motors...

All 4 up at the same time = more load on the electrical system, especially since the car is off and the battery is not being charged by the alternator

Quick recommendation re: removing the centre console (On TL's only) - DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER! EVEN WITH A RAG!

The console is very fragile on the end part and can crack with ease, to remove it, pop out the centre console bucket (below the lid), reach under, and push it upwards for underneith.

OK, with the KL/W's the Window switches are on the doors, not the centre console.
Quick recommendation re: removing the centre console (On TL's only) - DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER! EVEN WITH A RAG!

The console is very fragile on the end part and can crack with ease, to remove it, pop out the centre console bucket (below the lid), reach under, and push it upwards for underneith.

Mate, unless you have very skinny and flexible hands, you'd be hard pressed to reach under there and pop it off.
If you look at the pic where he's holding the power window loom, you can clearly see two screws there that hold the centre console in place.
KL/W's are different in they have a lidded storage box that can be removed for easier console removal where the TL's have there window switch.

I had a slow drivers window and the cable ended up snapping(not sure if related).
Needed a whole new window motor with new cable. Window is now fast. From that, i'm guessing it is the motors that are slow.

Over all the 3rd gen Verada's i have owned, i have found that all prior to KJ have qucik windows and KJ onwards have some slow windows.

Maybe, and im only guessing here but maybe Mitsub started using different window motors to cut costs. Wouldn't suprise me as the KJ's onwards seem to get a few things in them that arn't quite up to the quality of the earlier ones.
Just a thought.

Mate, unless you have very skinny and flexible hands, you'd be hard pressed to reach under there and pop it off.
If you look at the pic where he's holding the power window loom, you can clearly see two screws there that hold the centre console in place.
KL/W's are different in they have a lidded storage box that can be removed for easier console removal where the TL's have there window switch.

It's fairly easy to do... done it a few times before. the end of the TL console is VERY flimsy... I don't trust it. Another way is to pull from the lower shifter area... Maybe its just my skinny arms :P

Ill update it, if i get enuff interest ill write in the work out/write the verada codes, but if you look in the workshop manual, you can work it out urself with a bit of patience...as for using a screwdriver, doesnt have to be one, but i cant get it out with my hands, need some kind of flat tool, and im very careful when i do it. So are all veradas controls on the door? and TL/TW Magna in center console?

EDIT: 1 window goes up at a time like Mohits, but i've seen ones where all 4 go up, you would just need to wire it differently (eg split window 1 wire into all 4 at once and not wire up the rest) or buy a different module.

PS - I havnt actually done this yet, i just spent the other day workin it all out so when friend comes over with soldering iron i dont waste their time :P Will hopefully attempt it tomoz or thurs...

Ill update it, if i get enuff interest ill write in the work out/write the verada codes, but if you look in the workshop manual, you can work it out urself with a bit of patience...as for using a screwdriver, doesnt have to be one, but i cant get it out with my hands, need some kind of flat tool, and im very careful when i do it. So are all veradas controls on the door? and TL/TW Magna in center console?

EDIT: 1 window goes up at a time like Mohits, but i've seen ones where all 4 go up, you would just need to wire it differently (eg split window 1 wire into all 4 at once and not wire up the rest) or buy a different module.

PS - I havnt actually done this yet, i just spent the other day workin it all out so when friend comes over with soldering iron i dont waste their time :P Will hopefully attempt it tomoz or thurs...

I just won mine at fleabay(US) and will fit it to my Verada once I get it! I think we got it off the same seller timmy, coz its the same exact thing!

As for all 4 windows going up at the same time... well its possible but it will suck alot of juice from the battery though. Althought it will look cooler but you run the risk of shortening your car battery's life.

I just won mine at fleabay(US) and will fit it to my Verada once I get it! I think we got it off the same seller timmy, coz its the same exact thing!

As for all 4 windows going up at the same time... well its possible but it will suck alot of juice from the battery though. Althought it will look cooler but you run the risk of shortening your car battery's life.

Yeah, mine was from USA too, hey if you could write up the verada wireing sequence in the same format as i have above, ill add it in :D (likewise if u send a couple of pics)

ie this bit, but for verada


Magna
1 - Brown with Green Trace (Rear Right)
2 - Yellow with Red Trace (Front Right - Drivers Door)
3 - Empty
4 - Blue (Unused for this DIY)
5 - Blue with Red Trace (Front Left)
6 - Green with Blue Trace (Front Left)
7 - Green (Rear Right)
8 - Empty
9 - Blue (ACC)
10 - Black (Ground)
11 - Yellow with Black Trace (Front Right - Drivers Door)
12 - Brown with Blue Trace (Rear Left)
13 - Green with Blue Trade (Rear Left)

As for all 4 windows going up at the same time... well its possible but it will suck alot of juice from the battery though. Althought it will look cooler but you run the risk of shortening your car battery's life.

Not to mention the life of the module or your fuse and/or wiring. I suspect the reason they do one window at a time is so that they can use components which handle much less current. ie cheaper to make.

OK,

So i have recently installed this very unit into a KJ Verada with the door mounted switch.

Its very easy and the wire colours are the same for ALL power window cars.

The only wires that have to run through the door are the ACC and the power wire.

Even the locking (PIN 16 from the BEM) is present in the door obviously to tell it to lock.

So the system works very well. The only catch is, the windows must be able to go all the way up inside of 10 seconds. And for the later cars, with the different motors, they must be fully lubricated. Otherwise the system will detect a force on the window and stop it short.

http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp136/mcstannard_bucket/DSCF2378.jpg

OK,

So i have recently installed this very unit into a KJ Verada with the door mounted switch.

Its very easy and the wire colours are the same for ALL power window cars.

The only wires that have to run through the door are the ACC and the power wire.

Even the locking (PIN 16 from the BEM) is present in the door obviously to tell it to lock.

So the system works very well. The only catch is, the windows must be able to go all the way up inside of 10 seconds. And for the later cars, with the different motors, they must be fully lubricated. Otherwise the system will detect a force on the window and stop it short.

Is that like a safety thing? incase a child has thier head hanging out the window when its auto closing it thinks there is a force there so stops it from closing?

Is the auto up system always active? IE - if you want to leave a window open in your car overnight in the garage, if you lock it, its always gunna close the window?

Can you see any way of lengthening the windows going up time at all?

Is that like a safety thing? incase a child has thier head hanging out the window when its auto closing it thinks there is a force there so stops it from closing?

Is the auto up system always active? IE - if you want to leave a window open in your car overnight in the garage, if you lock it, its always gunna close the window?

Can you see any way of lengthening the windows going up time at all?

This is also a mod I'll be getting done shortly

I believe it is a safety thing and a good one, I've heard stories of these auto windows that don't have them have strangled pets and children. So is a good feature for me. However, I'll always make sure my kids are well away from the windows when they go up.

Is that like a safety thing? incase a child has thier head hanging out the window when its auto closing it thinks there is a force there so stops it from closing?

Is the auto up system always active? IE - if you want to leave a window open in your car overnight in the garage, if you lock it, its always gunna close the window?

Can you see any way of lengthening the windows going up time at all?

Yes you can add a switch in if you want the window to stay down.

But the idea is that the car is always secure. I mean, the system activated only when the doors are locked. So just leave the car in the garage unlocked. Why lock it and leave the window down. Also, if you leave your kids in the car, you won't generally be locking the doors.

Thumbs up for mcs_xi! :) He's the one that did the install on my KJ2 :)

Ok after re-reading this thread, I thought it would make life very easy for other members to mention which wires on the box connect to which wires on the car.

Verada Door Loom

Colours needed (In Drivers Door Loom)

Factory Harness Colour - Used for - Connection Colours
Black - Earth - Connect black wire from window box
Blue/Red Trace - Door lock signal wire - Connect White wire at lower door loom
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Blue/Red Trace (larger guage at window switch plug) - Drivers window up wire - Cut wire & Connect Blue wire to the motor side and the Blue/White trace to the switch side

Brown/Yellow Trace - Front Left Up Wire - Cut wire & Connect Green wire to the motor side and the Green/White trace to the switch side

Brown/Blue Trace - Rear Right Up Wire - Cut wire & Connect Grey wire to the motor side and the Grey/White trace to the switch side

Brown/Yellow Trace - Rear Left Up Wire - Cut wire & Connect Yellow wire to the motor side and the Yellow/White trace to the switch side
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Red Wire from Box - Run through door to body tube and into the passenger compartment. Find a battery constant power source.

Brown Wire from box - Run through door to body tube and into the passenger compartment. Find a ACC only supplied power source. This enables the box to know when you are in the car to disable the Auto Up feature while the car is running.

Mike

hey mcs_xi, did you use the same window up module as the one i have pic of? I would assume that various modules have different coloured cables? That's why i didnt write what colour goes to what in my guide (its on the instructions anyway)

EDIT: I updated first post with ur info, cheers

hey mcs_xi, did you use the same window up module as the one i have pic of? I would assume that various modules have different coloured cables? That's why i didnt write what colour goes to what in my guide (its on the instructions anyway)

EDIT: I updated first post with ur info, cheers

Yeah mate. Same module as your car.

I have a different one in mine at the moment, and the wiring for these systems is quite generic. Looks like the same factory pumps out many different brands.

In any case, I will be updating my car soon with a module that also closes my factory sunroof and the windows. As well as trying to hook it into a rain sensor. I shall update this thread with instructions after this install.

Mike

So the system works very well. The only catch is, the windows must be able to go all the way up inside of 10 seconds. And for the later cars, with the different motors, they must be fully lubricated. Otherwise the system will detect a force on the window and stop it short.

Can someone please explain how to fully lubricate these? Mine stops after a few cm, the max it has gone is halfway up before it thinks its hitting something and stops itself :(

In the doors there is a rail that you can see that the roller tracks on, and to the front of the door is another track that the window slots into, these are what you lubricate with silicon spray, front and rear doors

ok ill have a look today and go buy some silicon spray (reccomendatiosn on brand?)

do you have any pics, or will it be obvious once i get into door?

also, is there a guide here on dismantling the door? I've never done it before...

There is not really a recommended brand of spray. I just buy the stuff in the red can from the Supercheap place.

Anyway, the windows have 2 tracks. The first is visible once the door trim is removed and the plastic shield folded back. The second is at the very front of the door. Its not easy to see, a flashlight will help. But lubricating both tracks will massively help your window speed and also the closer system. If you need a guiide to remove the door trim, let me know.

But also, just check that the window closer you have installed is not powered from the power window feed. As this is connected to a timer relay and will kill power after 30 seconds.

let me know how you go.

Mike

ok ill go to Autobahn and get some this afternoon

nah i hooked up the power of the module to a 12v cable (straight line to the battery that i used for the airhorn) so i assume it should always have power, even after car is off and locked?

Yeah that's good with the wiring.

Keep me updated.

Mike

Best thing to use on the window tracks is Lithium Greese, is avail from most parts places

so...........has any one tried this on a 380 yet....????

As for people saying that this will put extra load on your battery, lol. Your car's battery if in good nick should see you able to use the CD player on ACC without turning the car on for at least 3-4 hours. Putting 4 windows up for a total of about 10 seconds will do not one bit of harm to your battery at all. If you have doubts about your battery, do what I did and buy a new one before it's too late.

so...........has any one tried this on a 380 yet....????

I think I have the wiring diagram for a 380 here.

It really is not hard to do these closer things. I have installed multiples of 3 seperate ones now (different manufacturers) and each is similar to the last. If you get one, just PM me and email me the wiring diagram for it and I can write and instruction for you. Takes all of about half a day to do. The pain in the arse is getting a constant power supply to the box under the master window switch (running an extra wire through the drivers door tube).

Mike

The pain in the arse is getting a constant power supply to the box under the master window switch (running an extra wire through the drivers door tube).

Mike
Doesn't the 380 have courtesy lights on the front doors? Wouldn't they use constant power with an earth trigger? Use that?

Doesn't the 380 have courtesy lights on the front doors? Wouldn't they use constant power with an earth trigger? Use that?

lol.....there arent even foot well lights...no extra light bling in the 380 mate.....

The magna uses constant power for its door lights too. But I would not power the windows from that circuit. I would run a line to pinch the power from a highly fused constant rather than one for small lights in the doors.

Window closers just don't use trickey on existing power window circuits to close the glass, they actually use the constant power to close the glass independant of the power window circuit and timer etc.

Mike

Anyone done this on a 2nd gen?