Just wondering what people would recommend to mount my new sub. Obviously, because it weighs 37kg's its not going to like being mounted horizontally (ie sub facing rear of trunk) without something strong to hold it up...

Im pretty sure the sub didnt come with any bolts (Well, came with 8 bolts with a thread on the end (EDIT: No actually it only has 4 :( ), bout 4" each, but this was holding the shipping box together so I dont think these would work on the sub, even though they fit through the mounting holes perfectly..)

Was thinking of using some big threaded bolts with T-nuts on the inside? Good idea?

Nobody has any thoughts?

37kg? Just for the sub? Or does that include the box? What do you mean by mounting the sub? Is that fabricating it in to your car, or how you're going to secure the sub box?

37kg? Just for the sub? Or does that include the box? What do you mean by mounting the sub? Is that fabricating it in to your car, or how you're going to secure the sub box?

Yeah man, just for the sub, its pretty big... :)

This is for how im gonna be securing the subwoofer to the box...

:confused:

How thick is your box? and have you built it yet? Also how many screw holes are on the sub?

As a basic rule on securing the sub, you shouldn't have to do anything over and above manufacture spec. E.g. if your sub manual recommend using a box with 20mm thick MDF, and has 8 screw holes, then you use 8 screw to go in to 20mm mdf and it will hold.

You mention it came with bolts? Well, they'd be almost impossible to use as you'll need to put a nut on the other end, haha. Unless you fabricate steel threads in to your sub box? Which seems like a lot of un required work to me anyway :P

Personally, i'd find the thickest screws you can that will fit through the mounting holes on your sub, use thick MDF for the box(even make the mounting panel of it thicker than the rest if you need to), and you'll be set.

How thick is your box? and have you built it yet? Also how many screw holes are on the sub?

As a basic rule on securing the sub, you shouldn't have to do anything over and above manufacture spec. E.g. if your sub manual recommend using a box with 20mm thick MDF, and has 8 screw holes, then you use 8 screw to go in to 20mm mdf and it will hold.

You mention it came with bolts? Well, they'd be almost impossible to use as you'll need to put a nut on the other end, haha. Unless you fabricate steel threads in to your sub box? Which seems like a lot of un required work to me anyway :P

Personally, i'd find the thickest screws you can that will fit through the mounting holes on your sub, use thick MDF for the box(even make the mounting panel of it thicker than the rest if you need to), and you'll be set.

Yeah man im most of the way through making my box. Its 1" MDF, with a double layer on the front. The sub has 8 bolt holes.
The sub didnt actually come with a manual, so thats why im asking on here.... I dont really think I should be using screws as I dont think 8 screws will hold a 37kg sub horizontally?... :( I could be wront though....

The sub is 2000wrms and has a linear one way excursion of 54mm so its gonna shake quite alot ey... Do you think screws will hold?

Edit: Turns out the bolts werent meant for the sub anyway as the box only had 4.... So obviously they werent meant for the sub. Shame though coz their beefy and have a nice hex head on top, and fit the sub holes perfectly.. :(

Dude, just saw your members ride thread and the sub. Shoot MGNTZD a PM, he's got the same sub! (15" Version) I'm sure he'll give you a few pointers on how to keep it secure! :)

well this subs sound TANK ... what is it ???

the 8 screws should keep it in tack as its going to be placed in horizontaly, so basicly the box will be holding its weight and screws but making it stay

8 nice big screws into 1" mdf will be heaps, its not "that" heavy and youd be surprised at how strong a grip decent screws can get.

Dude, just saw your members ride thread and the sub. Shoot MGNTZD a PM, he's got the same sub! (15" Version) I'm sure he'll give you a few pointers on how to keep it secure! :)

Well, I sent MGNTZD a pm earlier today, but no response yet so I thought I would see if any other AMCers might have some advice.. (Pretty sure theres a few audio pro's on here..)

Might just go check out MGNTZD sub thread again just to make sure nothing was mentioned about mounting screws..
Thanks man :)

well this subs sound TANK ... what is it ???

the 8 screws should keep it in tack as its going to be placed in horizontaly, so basicly the box will be holding its weight and screws but making it stay

RE XXX 12" :) Got a few pics in my members machines thread if you wanna check it out! Or check out MGNTZDs thread! He has the 15" though!


8 nice big screws into 1" mdf will be heaps, its not "that" heavy and youd be surprised at how strong a grip decent screws can get.

What do you mean not "that" heavy?! I couldnt even lift it!! :P I know what you mean though...

Ahh kk sweet, will be going into 2" MDF though (double layer of 1") :)

I think you'll be fine with some good screws mate, especially going in to 2" thick MDF! Just make sure you buy some quality screws.

I bet you must be hanging to get it set up! I can tell you now, you will not be disappointed! MGNTZD could charge people for full body massages with the amout of pressure that thing sends in to the car, haha. The excursion looks amazing too.

I think you'll be fine with some good screws mate, especially going in to 2" thick MDF! Just make sure you buy some quality screws.

I bet you must be hanging to get it set up! I can tell you now, you will not be disappointed! MGNTZD could charge people for full body massages with the amout of pressure that thing sends in to the car, haha. The excursion looks amazing too.

Ahh awesome, will do! Cheers man! :)

You have no idea man!! Im so impatient! lol Still need to get an amp though! (Got my eye on one, but will take 2 ish weeks to get here... , then I need battery, cables etc etc etc)
Dont think I will have it all set up and running before chrissy.... :(

Full body massages.........mmmmmmmmmm lol

Suss out Joe Bellissimo(sponsor) for a battery (and even an amp?) He had the Yellow Tops at $300 a couple of weeks back.

Also, be careful of your volume levels.. like seriously :P with mgntzd's 15" the bass is so concentrated you can actually feel it rattling your ear drums on some songs.. prolonged heavy bass listening will give you epic headaches, haha.

Suss out Joe Bellissimo(sponsor) for a battery (and even an amp?) He had the Yellow Tops at $300 a couple of weeks back.

Also, be careful of your volume levels.. like seriously :P with mgntzd's 15" the bass is so concentrated you can actually feel it rattling your ear drums on some songs.. prolonged heavy bass listening will give you epic headaches, haha.

Yeah I saw that battery group buy, but didnt have the money at the time. :( Joe did say though that he might still be able to get me one for not much extra :)

Ahahah Oh its not the epic headaches im worried about.... its the epic hearing loss!! lol Nah im pretty good with my volume knob I think.... Gonna be interesting to see how it compares to my little kicker! (As that thing still went pretty loud for its size) Better be worth all the monies im throwing at it! :P

OOO Something else I was wanting to ask. Is there such thing as a lock nut screw or something to prevent the sub being taken?? Im just thinking, if somebody wanted to steal my sub all they would need is a phillips screw driver.... :\

OOO Something else I was wanting to ask. Is there such thing as a lock nut screw or something to prevent the sub being taken?? Im just thinking, if somebody wanted to steal my sub all they would need is a phillips screw driver.... :\

And an engine crane lol

There isn't much you can do regarding stopping theft of subwoofers, yours has an advantage because it's ridiculously heavy, but if you dont play your music really loud before you park up and leave your car then nobody will know its in there anyway. Play it safe :)

If you still wanted to go the route of a nut/bolt combo for securing the sub, I remember seeing a product a while ago where the nut had 3 prongs that you hammer into the MDF, giving the nut and bolt security with screw into timber convenience.

8 screw will hold fine, though. Get a set with the largest head you can fit into the recess of the sub facia.

And an engine crane lol

There isn't much you can do regarding stopping theft of subwoofers, yours has an advantage because it's ridiculously heavy, but if you dont play your music really loud before you park up and leave your car then nobody will know its in there anyway. Play it safe :)

lol Maybe I'll just have to sound deaden the shit out of my car so most of the sound stays inside? lol I usually turn my music down when Im parking somewhere anyway so hopefully wont draw too much attention....

Im also thinking of disconnecting the boot opener button in the car (or moving to a 'more' hidden location), that way if somebody gets into my car, atleast they cant pop the boot.... I dont know how secure the keylock thing on the boot is though? Hopefully a screwdriver wont be able to pry it open... (Yes, Im very paranoid about people stealing my stuff lol)


If you still wanted to go the route of a nut/bolt combo for securing the sub, I remember seeing a product a while ago where the nut had 3 prongs that you hammer into the MDF, giving the nut and bolt security with screw into timber convenience.

8 screw will hold fine, though. Get a set with the largest head you can fit into the recess of the sub facia.

Yeah thats called the T-nut I mentioned in the first post! :D Apparently it doesnt work very well on mdf though? Will prob just go with the screws now! :)

OOO Something else I was wanting to ask. Is there such thing as a lock nut screw or something to prevent the sub being taken?? Im just thinking, if somebody wanted to steal my sub all they would need is a phillips screw driver.... :\

Doesn't your car alarm activate when the boot is forced open anyway? Perhaps it's a good time to upgrade your security.

Planning another group buy in Jan with Holden LS1ers.

IMHO let them steal it. You will see a bunch of guys with broken backs outside your car when you return.

Doesn't your car alarm activate when the boot is forced open anyway? Perhaps it's a good time to upgrade your security.

Nah man, TF's didnt come with any security systems..... Will hopefully be getting one installed in january though, before Uni starts... :)


Planning another group buy in Jan with Holden LS1ers.

IMHO let them steal it. You will see a bunch of guys with broken backs outside your car when you return.

Sweeet! Do you know when in january? Hopefully my current battery will survive a few weeks...

use a T-nut a bolt setup. its cheap and extremely effective. screws would probably be fine but for an substantial subwoofer setup i always use t-nuts. they work very well on mdf.you could probably squeeze an M6 thread through the screw holes on an XXX but check first. ive used M8 bolts on 18" subs but that was overkill.

oh.. and its vertical mounting that you want more strength. horizontal = flat

hey man, i've replied to your PM.

Your current battery will survive, but you'll get the good ol' dimming headlights ;)

Even if someone gets into your boot, they're gonna have a bloody hard time moving the sub & box!! I needed a mate to help me lift out mine.. it's just too heavy otherwise!

use a T-nut a bolt setup. its cheap and extremely effective. screws would probably be fine but for an substantial subwoofer setup i always use t-nuts. they work very well on mdf.you could probably squeeze an M6 thread through the screw holes on an XXX but check first. ive used M8 bolts on 18" subs but that was overkill.

oh.. and its vertical mounting that you want more strength. horizontal = flat

Ahhh ok. So does it matter how far the bolt comes out of the MDF on the inside? Because the bolt goes all the way through, does this mean that air is going to escape through the thread?


Yeah, sorry I meant the frame is going to be mounted horizonally, not the actual cone bit.. (So woofer is facing rear of boot)

hey man, i've replied to your PM.

Your current battery will survive, but you'll get the good ol' dimming headlights ;)

Even if someone gets into your boot, they're gonna have a bloody hard time moving the sub & box!! I needed a mate to help me lift out mine.. it's just too heavy otherwise!

Yeah thanks man for that! :) Arggg Still trying to decide between bolt and screw!! Think bolt might be a little stronger though so that might be the way to go for me...

Well im pretty sure that the box wont be able to be moved, but thinking they could just undo the mounting bolts/screws and take the sub.... that would be what I would do anyway lol....
But I agree the sub is pretty damn heavy! I can hardly lift it by myself! And yours weighs an extra 2 kg's!!

Spose ill also be breaking in the sub for a few weeks, so wont need a massive battery anyway probably.... so the group buy for yellowtops in january should be perfect timing!

Think the biggest bolt I go for would be 9mm head with thread width of 5mm. This is the size of the 4 bolts that came in the subwoofer box for shipping. (Not for the sub, just to hold the box together) Shame they dont have a thread all the way down coz otherwise they would be perfect!

what sort of sub is it?

what sort of sub is it?


re xxx 12" :) got a few pics in my members machines thread if you wanna check it out! Or check out mgntzds thread! He has the 15" though!

:) :)

Nah man, TF's didnt come with any security systems..... Will hopefully be getting one installed in january though, before Uni starts... :)


I'd certainly put that on a high priority, especially considering the investment you've made inside your car. And extra $500 although is a bit of cash - is protecting thousands of dollars worth of gear and countless hours in work (customizing the box etc.)

Not to mention it'll help prevent your whole car getting stolen etc. etc. Once that i like, i think Viper did them? They have motion sensors inside the car so even if someone just smashes the window the alarm will go off, and you can get 'screamers' (i think that's what they're called?) which send off a REALLY loud and really high pitched noise to make it almost impossible to even be near the car.

50+kg of sub box - I have been there before. Does wonders for the handling ha.

Remember that in an accident it may kill someone if mounted incorrectly. Or course nothing is perfect but it's good you are taking proper precautions. :D

I'd certainly put that on a high priority, especially considering the investment you've made inside your car. And extra $500 although is a bit of cash - is protecting thousands of dollars worth of gear and countless hours in work (customizing the box etc.)

Not to mention it'll help prevent your whole car getting stolen etc. etc. Once that i like, i think Viper did them? They have motion sensors inside the car so even if someone just smashes the window the alarm will go off, and you can get 'screamers' (i think that's what they're called?) which send off a REALLY loud and really high pitched noise to make it almost impossible to even be near the car.

Screamers? Oh hell yeah, definately gonna look into those!!



Anyway, went down to bunnings today to find some T-nuts and bolts. Showed them the allen head bolt I have from the subwoofer packaging box (The bolts that fitted perfectly, just being a little long so thread wouldnt work), but they apparently dont sell those ones.. :(

Found some T-nuts, but the smallest having a thread diameter of 7.5mm. I then went to find some phillips head bolts (as they didnt sell theallen head ones that I wanted), but the bolts that were just long enough had a massive head so there was no way it would fit... rggg

Gonna prob go check out a different hardware store, and if they dont have any I might just have to go the screw route.

But basically what im looking for is a bolt with a max head size of 10mm, length of around 70mm and thread of around 6mm. Hex (Internal, ie round head with little hex hole in the middle) top or phillips head. Obviously the closer to the max size the better..

Might have a look online for some, but if anybody knows where i could get some of these please tell me! :)

Edit: These (http://cgi.ebay.com/Nickel-Allen-Hex-Socket-Cap-Head-10-PCS-Bolt-Screws_W0QQitemZ220516516654QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_ DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3357cf032e) are what im looking for. Is nickel fairly solid?

Still dont understand why you want bolts, just get some heavy duty screws, definitely wont go anywhere into 2 inches of mdf.

Still dont understand why you want bolts, just get some heavy duty screws, definitely wont go anywhere into 2 inches of mdf.

I just thought they would be much stronger..... I cant even life the sub so I hate to think how the mdf is gonna cope....Plus the hex/allen heads are much better for security then phillips heads...

Would be so much easier just to get screws though...

I just thought they would be much stronger..... I cant even life the sub so I hate to think how the mdf is gonna cope....Plus the hex/allen heads are much better for security then phillips heads...

Would be so much easier just to get screws though...

I was a bit weary too, but I have gone over some pretty serious potholes/bumps and my sub is still very secure in its box! and I told you I'm just using 8g screws. As long as you have a bit of bracing inside the box it'll hold up fine!

I was a bit weary too, but I have gone over some pretty serious potholes/bumps and my sub is still very secure in its box! and I told you I'm just using 8g screws. As long as you have a bit of bracing inside the box it'll hold up fine!

Yeah I think I might just go for some screws then....
Hey Sam do you have any pics of your bracing for your box? Ive looked through your XXX thread but couldnt find any? Maybe even just check my thread out, and see what you think of the bracing? Would really appreciate it as nobody can tell me whether my bracing is good enough or not :(

Yeah I think I might just go for some screws then....
Hey Sam do you have any pics of your bracing for your box? Ive looked through your XXX thread but couldnt find any? Maybe even just check my thread out, and see what you think of the bracing? Would really appreciate it as nobody can tell me whether my bracing is good enough or not :(

Just took a look then... and yes, that's plenty of bracing!! I don't even have that much and mine is holding up fine! You like to overkill things a bit don't you :P

Just took a look then... and yes, that's plenty of bracing!! I don't even have that much and mine is holding up fine! You like to overkill things a bit don't you :P

Yeah, I guess so lol. I didnt really know how much to do as I googled 'subwoofer box bracing' and the only results were really heavily braced boxes (More than what I did!). I didnt think it would need this much... Oh well! Better too much then not enough ey? Thanks man :)

Does anybody know the difference between speaker wire and power wire?
I was going to use my old 8 gauge (or may be 4) power wire to connect my amp to my subs terminals. Is this a bad idea? I read on the internet that I should be using speaker wire instead? Whats the difference??
Is 8gauge an overkill? I wouldnt have thought so with 2000wrms running through them??!

DD woofers have 8 ga wire hooked up to them from the factory. Looks very similar to "speaker' wire to me, just fatter.

Sound like a better idea then running dual 12ga speaker wires.

Somewhere like coventry fasteners will have the bolts you want.

http://www.coventrys.com.au/coventry/divisions/industrial/coventry_fasteners/

Does anybody know the difference between speaker wire and power wire?
I was going to use my old 8 gauge (or may be 4) power wire to connect my amp to my subs terminals. Is this a bad idea? I read on the internet that I should be using speaker wire instead? Whats the difference??
Is 8gauge an overkill? I wouldnt have thought so with 2000wrms running through them??!

Its all copper, not such thing as overkill :)

DD woofers have 8 ga wire hooked up to them from the factory. Looks very similar to "speaker' wire to me, just fatter.

Sound like a better idea then running dual 12ga speaker wires.

Why dual 12ga? You mean they dont make 8ga speaker wire?

There's this stuff on ebay ive been looking at called 'KnuKonceptz Karma SS 8 Gauge Twisted Pair Speaker Wire' linky here (http://http://cgi.ebay.com/KnuKonceptz-Karma-SS-8-Gauge-Twisted-Pair-Speaker-Wire_W0QQitemZ390126335563QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_De faultDomain_0?hash=item5ad557764b) It says "Each conductor in this cable is 8 Gauge - you get two 8 Gauge conductors twisted into one cable"
So thats exactly what I need right? This would cost me around 30 bucks for the amount I need (Will be free shipping)..

But how is this speaker wire different to my 8ga power wire? Does speaker wire really have more 'shielding'?

Went down to bunnings today and got some screws (Ruined my tnut idea by sticking on the sub box lid before putting the t-nuts in :headbange. Bunnings did not have ANY 8g screws (40mm +, timber/wood) with non-countersunk heads on them!! The closest they had were 'self embedding head's' which are kinda flat but have like little marks around the edge of the head. These only came in 30mm and 40mm so I took the bigger one. They are still pretty small though. I cant imagine these little things holding my sub in..... Maybe I should get some 10G ones instead and just make them fit (I think they would fit, be very tight, but they would fit as the hole for the screws is around 9mm and its made of this black flexy rubbery stuff. So im sure I could get a 10mm head in there) I think a 10mm head and around 50mm long would be better..

screws will be fine, had my 12" in the car for 4 years with no problems at all, thats with a few track days with the sub in the car


http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i296/Leeson2/P1040896.jpg

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i296/Leeson2/P1040897.jpg

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i296/Leeson2/P1000265-1.jpg

Woooooo! Another xxx! Cheers Megatron.
Tiny box though! What did it sound like? And is that one of the new ones? Or like the pre-06 ones (Xbl^2 or whatever they had)?
Looks a slightly different colour to mine? More greyish... could just be the camera though...

I'd certainly put that on a high priority, especially considering the investment you've made inside your car. And extra $500 although is a bit of cash - is protecting thousands of dollars worth of gear and countless hours in work (customizing the box etc.)

Not to mention it'll help prevent your whole car getting stolen etc. etc. Once that i like, i think Viper did them? They have motion sensors inside the car so even if someone just smashes the window the alarm will go off, and you can get 'screamers' (i think that's what they're called?) which send off a REALLY loud and really high pitched noise to make it almost impossible to even be near the car.

you can get ones that go off with light impact, like an egg on your car....

you can get ones that go off with light impact, like an egg on your car....

You wouldnt want it too sensitive though, or it would go off with rain, honkynuts etc....

yeah thats a fair point, people with these will dread hail!
I'll have to check your ride thread out, coz I don't know what sub bracing is...

Woooooo! Another xxx! Cheers Megatron.
Tiny box though! What did it sound like? And is that one of the new ones? Or like the pre-06 ones (Xbl^2 or whatever they had)?
Looks a slightly different colour to mine? More greyish... could just be the camera though...


yeah pre 06, box was sealed so only needed 1cuft

Decided to go down to bunnings today and just buy some 10g screws, just to see if they would fit (Although I had my doubts.... was only a few bucks so I thought I might as well give it a shot as my 8g were a tiny bit small for my liking...)
and...
They fit perfectly!! :D They're only 45mm long (Would have prefered 50mm), but its the longest I could get that had a non-countersunk head! They have a much beefier thread than the 8g too so should work well with the MDF! :D