Good morning,

Just a quick question, my verada climate control doesnt blow hot air.:wtf:

the story is when i turn the temp up to 30+ degrees, i thought it would blow hot air to warm up but it doesnt just blows warmish air.

so what could be the problem and what does auto do on the climate control???????:wtf:

Check if it just sends the air to the windscreen.

They are pre programmed to do thats for some sort of visibility thing. If not, there may be a malfunction. My heater can be quite hot on full bore.

The Auto function will make the unit control where the air is sent and the fan speed itself to maintain the set temp.

Cheers, what signs are there that the heater core is gone??

Cheers, what signs are there that the heater core is gone??

Wet passengers front floor is the biggest giveaway.

Does the climate control get cold - does the fan controll itself in auto mode?
(ie - set to 20degrees inside, 40degree day - the fan should go flat out on recirc for a few mins to drop the temp them slow down and itl eventually change to fresh air and a much slower fan speed when the temp has been stabilised)

I found in my car, that in a morning, when i first started the car, and had the climate set to say 30, the fan would take a minute or two to come on fast and for the hot air to actually circulate through the car.
I always assumed this was because the car itself was still heating up the coolant (cold start).

whats the outside temp when your selecting 30?
it may be that it just doesnt need to heat the air so much to hit that mark (if its say 27 outside the forced air wont be that hot).

the heater boxes have a few known issues in these cars, I have lost count of how many I have fixed now

The arms on the RHS get jammed up and stop the flaps moving, seems to mainly happen with the climate control ones as the cable ones have alot more force on them with a person shunting the control where as the climate motors are fairly weak

now if your heater core was gone you will still get hot and cold air as coolant flows 100% of the time, it is a flap that re directs the air around the core or through the core,

Your issue can be one of 4 things

Your control unit is faulty and not running the acutator (is the one under the heater box, not on the side)
The actuator is faulty and not moving the flap
Flap is jammed
Heater core is blocked

Best way to initially check is have it on cold, look under heater box and watch the arm (just above the ecu) and turn up heat, if the flap moves you know you have blocked core. If arm does not move you can swap that actuator with a working one (from memory there are 2 acuators the same on the system so these can be swapped over). If still no go, is your climate control unit

Again, you have KF so do not use a control unit out of a KH or later as it will not allow your aircon to work as is a different system, yo will need a KE or KF one

Again, you have KF so do not use a control unit out of a KH or later as it will not allow your aircon to work as is a different system, yo will need a KE or KF one

I think he pulled the bits out of a KH mate.

I own a 1999 KH verada and ended up having a seized acuator that eventually un-seized itself and creating a massive ticking noise when i started the car, even when i didnt have the air conditioner on.

The Actuator some how unaligned itself, eventually forcing the acuator to turn further than it was capable of, creating a repeating ticking noise every time i started the car and when i was driving on highway etc.

I then could not bare the tick any longer after nearly 12months. It became unbearable when driving on the highway. So i got the actuator replaced costing $130 bucks. Then about $250 bucks in labor.

I wish i knew how to rip out the actuator so i could of done it myself and save some money. But i couldnt find anything in the the forums or in the service manual about this or similar problems until now.

the heater boxes have a few known issues in these cars, I have lost count of how many I have fixed now

The arms on the RHS get jammed up and stop the flaps moving, seems to mainly happen with the climate control ones as the cable ones have alot more force on them with a person shunting the control where as the climate motors are fairly weak

now if your heater core was gone you will still get hot and cold air as coolant flows 100% of the time, it is a flap that re directs the air around the core or through the core,

Your issue can be one of 4 things

Your control unit is faulty and not running the acutator (is the one under the heater box, not on the side)
The actuator is faulty and not moving the flap
Flap is jammed
Heater core is blocked

Best way to initially check is have it on cold, look under heater box and watch the arm (just above the ecu) and turn up heat, if the flap moves you know you have blocked core. If arm does not move you can swap that actuator with a working one (from memory there are 2 acuators the same on the system so these can be swapped over). If still no go, is your climate control unit

Again, you have KF so do not use a control unit out of a KH or later as it will not allow your aircon to work as is a different system, yo will need a KE or KF one

Have scanned a lot of TH to TJ Climate Control module threads: how much is the original from Mitsu, as a spare part? several thousand? :)

I have had the ticking noise, lasting approx. 30 seconds mainly on start up and occasionally during driving, for years. The heating never seemed to work. After a tappet cover seal change - I don't know if it is a coincidence - warm/hot air blew through the vents when the air con. was off, then I realised the ticking had gone, after reading this thread. A week or so later, the ticking started again, and no hot air was blowing. What the... Can anyone make any sense of that?

Again, you have KF so do not use a control unit out of a KH or later as it will not allow your aircon to work as is a different system, yo will need a KE or KF one
Not that it's totally relevant to whats going on here, but I fitted a KJ Climate control unit to my KE purely because it wasn't scratched like my original, and it worked fine, never glitched or hindered any performance. Just FYI.