So...investigating the lack of sub it appears both my 10 inch subs are rooted. They are/were Cerwin Vega hed10dvc 10" subs. On one sub one voice coil works, the other doesn't (open circuit). On the other, one voice coil works but due to fatigue the power lead has broken off, the other coil doesn't (open circuit).

The amp is a cadence Q4000 driving the 2 splits up front and the 2 subs.

I'm after anything that will slot in and give somewhat reasonable performance. I'm not after any great smashing sound, I just need to fill the void of bass that used to provided by the CVs.

So, whats the best cheapest and best value for money 10" subs going around?

Cheers!!

Are you running the splits and/or subs in 4ohms or 2? Coz that amp only puts out 60wrms x 4 (at 4ohms).... so you were probably giving the subs 60wrms each..
That is underpowering them quite a bit as they are 150wrms I believe... They couldnt have been that loud?
Honestly mate, I think your best option would be to upgrade your amp (or buy another one) and then get some subs. Its a bit fishy that both of your subs are screwed., so im guessing the underpowering did it...

EDIT: For the subs, I suggest maybe kicker comp 10"'s? No idea how they sound, but I have the compvr12" and it goes pretty hard... I think their pretty cheap too...

Splits running each a 4 ohm channel @60W each. The subs each coil being 4 ohm was in series (8 ohm) then the two subs were bridged (4 ohm). So yeah 200W fed to the 2 subs. In my old TR it was plenty loud. In the KH not so much with all the sound deadening, but is adequate for the odd cranking.

Don't get me started on what I have :) 6-7 years ago I was young and ignorant and my mate got his system done at a certain shop who a guy he sorta knew was the main guy on the floor. I was promised a great system at mates prices. What this resulted in was a dodgy install (one sub held in by 2 screws, the hole in the box was so out of round the other 2 missed the MDF all together, the other sub was better, that was held in by 3) and paying an absolute premium ($200 for each sub which later were sold for $99).

One sub packed it in after a year with the lead into the cone fatiguing off. I went in and got a replacement (they told me I was over driving the sub..bahaha) and low and behold on the newer sub where the lead had broken, was now covered with an epoxy to stop it from happening in later batches.

So yeah, I know its not optimal, but thems the cards I was dealt many years ago, and I can't justify spending big money to correct their incompetence and my younger blind faith.

Damn thats pretty bad man..

What's the goal mate? Sound quality or do you want something thats just going to have a bit of grunt?

To save money, I am guessing you would like to keep the same box? If this is the case we need to know a little more about the box:

Sealed / Ported?
Internal Volume?


If you are open to suggestions of a single 12 - let us know.

From there, if we are looking at 2x 10inch subs again, you will need subs that are DVC 1ohm ( Unlikely ) or DVC 4ohm like you had before. May I suggest this time around wiring the DVC 4ohm subs in parallel then wiring them together in series. Reason being, when a single sub is wired in parallel you gain a little bit of efficiency. Since their is not an aweful lot of power on tap, this may help :)

Lastly we need a budget.

To save money, I am guessing you would like to keep the same box? If this is the case we need to know a little more about the box:

Sealed / Ported?
Internal Volume?




Yep, keeping the box is preferable. Its a sealed box of about 40L (ID 16cm deep x 76cm wide x 33cm high). The box sits nicely between the wheel arches and the rear seat. A thin carpeted panel is sandwiched between the MDF box and speakers, and sections of the area with the box from the rest of the boot (it gives the appearance of the subs being mounted flush in the back of the boot, almost factory fitted). The amp is mounted on the back of the box (carpeted) and is visible/accessible through the ski port of the rear seat. This neat flush look is something I want to keep, rather than having a random box and amp visible in the boot.



If you are open to suggestions of a single 12 - let us know.


I'm open to anything that gives good value for money :)



Lastly we need a budget.

Lets say...$300 preferable...$400 hard limit.



What's the goal mate? Sound quality or do you want something thats just going to have a bit of grunt?
I want some reasonable bass that is punchy, that doesn't have that soggy sound at the expense of sound quality. The 2x10s sounded good and provided a reasonable level of bass, even though they sacrificed themselves to get there.

2 of these? http://www.shoppingsecure.com.au/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=131

Thoughts?

They are a good choice of woofer but he needs to end up with a 4ohm load since he is bridging off the rear channels of his amp. If he doesn't, he will only have 60WRMS on tap for each woofer.

I guess what you need is:

10inch woofer
suits 20litre sealed
DVC 4ohm
Under $200


And then obviously getting 2 of them....

This (http://www.shoppingsecure.com.au/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=123) could be a cheap option if it suits 20 litres sealed.

pioneer shitters FTW. from what youve explained about your system, theres no point in spending any more than you have to and the $90 pioneer subs will do the trick.

They are a good choice of woofer but he needs to end up with a 4ohm load since he is bridging off the rear channels of his amp. If he doesn't, he will only have 60WRMS on tap for each woofer.

I guess what you need is:

10inch woofer
suits 20litre sealed
DVC 4ohm
Under $200


And then obviously getting 2 of them....

This (http://www.shoppingsecure.com.au/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=123) could be a cheap option if it suits 20 litres sealed.

I posted too quickly!

Here: http://www.dbdrive.net/products-dbseries.php?overview=true&id=db10d4&section=subwoofers
My site: http://www.shoppingsecure.com.au/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=123

I'll have some in my hands for testing soon hopefully :D But if you like them I can send them to you instead. Just thought I would add more options to add to the fun of the shopping experience :D

Ok with some hunting around it seems like I'll have trouble finding a cheap 10" DVC sub and especially 10" that comes out to a 20L enclosure (2x = 40L). Kicker make an 8ohm sub in their entry level which would have been ideal, but the enclosure requirements are way out from what I have.

A few shops I went to were pushing for a new amp to provide 600W or so for $400-500 + a few hundred for a sub. Given this was beyond the budget I was heading to a single 12" underpowered as a cheap way out (plenty in the range of a 40L enclosure).

But I just came across the Jaycar 2x150W amp, with 500Wx1 bridged @ 4ohm (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AA0424&CATID=24&form=CAT&SUBCATID=595). For $220 this opens the door for a reasonably powered sub again.

So a few questions:
1. Are there any reasons to stay away from these amps?
2. What 12" subs would be good for circa $200 that would make use of the power.
3. Would a single 12" be overly droney/soggy compared to 2x 10s? Or would more power to a slightly better sub w/ more power provide a tighter sound?
4. Would I need a cap with this amp and existing amp (running effectively at half power)
5. Are there any issues to consider running 2x amps? I was intending to daisy chain power and power on signal from the existing amp. RCAs would goto the new amp and pass through to the old amp.

1. Are there any reasons to stay away from these amps? No not really. They make the power, they are not pretty but work well. I still have a 4 year old one that has run everything from 6inch splits to 6x9's to a Boston G5 and did it all well.
2. What 12" subs would be good for circa $200 that would make use of the power. Plenty out there, as long as it has 300WRMS handling or more you will be fine. You need to find one you like :)
3. Would a single 12" be overly droney/soggy compared to 2x 10s? Or would more power to a slightly better sub w/ more power provide a tighter sound? No difference, honestly this occurs from poor box design more than anything else. Other factor is often the amps damping factor being to low to run the woofer which usually happens when you drive low impedance loads ( 1ohm ) - not applicable here.
4. Would I need a cap with this amp and existing amp (running effectively at half power) No. Perhaps upgrade your batteries earth if you haven't done so already.
5. Are there any issues to consider running 2x amps? I was intending to daisy chain power and power on signal from the existing amp. RCAs would goto the new amp and pass through to the old amp.No drama running 2 amps, I have done it in all my cars. If you decide to definitely go that way we can discuss it more :D

I'll hunt around and see what I can find.

Thanks for you help, much appreciated.