G'Day guys,

Im just curious if there is anything I should be wary of when relocating the battery to the boot? I'll be using a propery batter box. Are there any disadvantages that im not aware off.

I will be using the space where it was for my CAI setup im working on :D

Thanks all :thumbsup:

thats something i would like to do aswell. How much the box set you back?

I picked up a proper battery box for 29.95 from supercheap

how exactly are ya gonna run the power cables through the car? under carpet? Isnt there a big chance to create a heap of noise through the stereo?

Wouldnt it only create bad stereo qual if your running all the power lines and speaker lines next to eachother? like with emf's and stuff.. if you ran the stereo wires down one side and the power down the other im sure there'd be no problem what-so-ever, but then again im just taking a stab in the dark at it, maybe someone else has done it, i wouldnt mind moving my battery and extending the piping so my filter sits where the battery is now..

all power lines should be run down left side of car and speakers down right side of car. should have no trouble. i need to go grab myself one of these two, so i can work on my CAI setup and my boot install :D

Trav

man what kind of cai are you guys doing to have the battery in the boot???? :think: :think:
i'm excited!!
when you'll be done??????

kev

me - who knows. 2005?

care to spill your idea??? :P

kev

The only things i can htink of is keep power and speaker cables away from each other, and also tjhe fact htat it is defectabnle without an engineers certificate

The only things i can htink of is keep power and speaker cables away from each other, and also tjhe fact htat it is defectabnle without an engineers certificate

Defectable without an engineers cert hey? Bugger lol

That doesn't bother me, its not difficult to move the battery back and use the stock induction to pass the pitts.

As for the induction idea, I have plans :D Just going to have to wait and see, should look pretty good :D

You will need some fairly heavy cabling for your starter motor, etc. The longer the run, the more voltage loss with high current. You will need to put the negative connection to the body in the boot, I would expect, to keep that run shortest also. Speak to an auto electrician about those though. Put a big fuse near the battery in line, as with a long run, there's more likelihood of damaging the + cable and causing a fire if it's not fused.

How much of a voltage loss would I expect? And is it ok just to ground the negative terminal to the boot or should I run another cable back to the negative terminal in the engine bay?

also, the only type of battery that can be used in side a car are dry cell batteries, any battery venting to atmosphere is illegal and dangerous in a car!
a decent dry cell battery cost arund $400

and normlly, people have a smaller dry cell battery in the engine bay for the things like starter motor and the like, so it doesn't reduce voltage.
both of them have to be connected in line with a minimum 4 gauge power cable

as long as u run decent sized cable like 2gauge then voltage loss shouldnt be a problem. Some people reccoment 0 gauge but i think thats abit of over kill

also, the only type of battery that can be used in side a car are dry cell batteries, any battery venting to atmosphere is illegal and dangerous in a car!
a decent dry cell battery cost arund $400

and normlly, people have a smaller dry cell battery in the engine bay for the things like starter motor and the like, so it doesn't reduce voltage.
both of them have to be connected in line with a minimum 4 gauge power cable

Your battery in the engine bay vents to atmosphere... If mounted in the boot then as long as you have the battery enclosed in a sealed battery box that vents to atmosphere then it's legal. Also need to have appropriate restraints to stop the battery turning into a missile.

I would use at least 2AWG but preferably 0AWG cable if performing a relocation.

If you run two 12V batteries they must be connected IN PARALLEL, not in line. You would otherwise end up with a 24V battery.

Thats a good point made about wet cells venting to the atmosphere, If i was to put it in my boot am i likely to have a build up of fumes or a nasty smell coming from the boot?

yer, when we relocated our battery into the boot, we ran 0guage, and bought a new dry cell sealed battery, (largest cost) not that that was a bad thing, cos the ageing 5yo battery needed to go to sleep anyway :nuts:

but we also ran the wiring under the vehicle, in its own protective cabeling to protect from rocks, sticks and other stupid things!

see attached.

Why not just use RPW's CAI kit ??

Thats what i have and it fits perfectly with the battery staying in its original location.

Seems to be a lot of hassle and expense to do otherwise. Cheaper to buy the RPM kit which puts the filter out of sight and down near the bumper meaning it would be difficult to defect seeing as it cant be seen.

Your theory leaves you open for a defect under the bonnet and in the boot.

not everyone wants to buy a $500 piece of pipe :confused:

plus, then you have a modified looking engine bay! :cool:

you can spend less than $150 to make your own that does about the same thing..... :P

Why not just use RPW's CAI kit ??

Thats what i have and it fits perfectly with the battery staying in its original location.

Seems to be a lot of hassle and expense to do otherwise. Cheaper to buy the RPM kit which puts the filter out of sight and down near the bumper meaning it would be difficult to defect seeing as it cant be seen.

Your theory leaves you open for a defect under the bonnet and in the boot.

Your right Ralliart Boy it would be easier however I want to avoid spending that much on an off the shelf induction kit.

The problem with the K&N Induction kit that RPW are selling is in winter if you were to hit a deep puddle then you would suck the water up like a straw and leave you with a hydrolocked engine needing a rebuild.

The idea im playing with will look better (im hoping anyway lol) and avoid the puddle trauma whilst still getting just as much cold air.

I've also had some quotes to have to same induction setup done in Stainless Steel which has proven cheaper than the K&N Unit. I would rather stainless over plastic anyday :D Only problem is stailness or any metal induction system soaks up the heat badly...

I take your point about price but you generally get what you pay for and most of us dont have the tech know how that some others do.

You are wrong about the puddle theory though.

After setting my kit up, it would be difficult for water to enter because of where the filter sits and slao, it comes with a cover to protect it.

So, lets go with the price advantage, not the water one.

The main advantage I find out be plastic construction, it would be less prone to heat soak like stainless steel which i could imagine getting super hot and heating the air as it passes through... DOH :D

Ralliart Boy did you install the kit yoursel? Do you have an auto or man? Did you notice a power increase?

Thats a good point made about wet cells venting to the atmosphere, If i was to put it in my boot am i likely to have a build up of fumes or a nasty smell coming from the boot?

Read my post again; as long as it vents to atmosphere then it's fine. Venting into your boot is not venting to atmosphere.

i am sorry, i was meaning any battery venting to atmosphere placed inside the cabin is illegal, apart from the funny smell and corrossion that might occur!


and dry celll batteries dont vent, they completely sealed, will never leak, and will always maintain there power (unless u have a 5WRMS stereo) and willl last for years and decades!

Got my mechanic to fit purely as i dont have the time.

I saw the instructions and it seemed quite easy.

It is a well developed kit that does a great job and while i cant feel a major difference (it is just a filter afterall) i do enjoy driving the car more with the kit installed.

I challenge anyone to do a kit like this for $150 as DaJaJa has said can be done.

Basically, i am happy to pay for quality and brand name products.

Just dont see the use in doing all this work you have planned (which is going to cost you more in the long run anyway than the RPW kit) for the sake of CAI when you have a pre-fabricated kit ready to go.

Booya, it is more than just a pipe, have you seen the kit ?? After all the money you have spent on your car, i find it funny that you make a remark about the price of the kit.

Oh, and the car is a manual.

ralliary boy,

wasnty havent a go at ya...
just stating that for people who cant afford the K&N CAI, theres always the cheaper method of making your own like THsmoker...
lucky for you that you got the k&n... they do look damn sexy in the engine bay!!

also could you provide a pic of what it looks like from below??? where the pod is actually sitting...

man i'm gettin paranoid that water is gonna get sucked into the pod.... :doubt: :doubt:

kev

why not run a small battery in the engine bay that your CAI can work around, just for starting etc etc, and have all the stereo hooked up toa dry cell in the boot? i'm pretty sure the dual battery isolators cost about $120, then all u need is the cable most people run from battery 2 boot anyway (not too sure of gauge, as it wont b powering stereo, just charging the battery)

I take your point about price but you generally get what you pay for

Not in this case, 500 or so dollars for a simple cold air induction kit is ludicrous. Aunger sells CAI kits for commodores which are about 50-60 bucks and they do the exact same job.

i dont get the whole thing about people being scared of driving through puddles and sucking water up. hasnt anyone noticed your front bar sits about 2 foot in front of your wheels! so unless your hooning round in reverse driving through childrens paddling pools how the hell is the water gonna get to it. havent you ever watched a car drive through a puddle. the water goes backwards. so as long as you dont drive to far in reverse in the rain, or plan any river crossings, i think you all should be fine.

what you'd find is that there would be buckly's chance of water being sucked up a pipe as long and as angled as these cold air kits. the car would definately STALL well before the water gets in the intake plennum

the water issue isnt a real problem

I've seen a mini-bus suck up water (the air intake is under the step) and I tell you what, it wasn't nice.

I think I'd be too scared to put my air intake close to the ground. You only need a tiny bit of that nasty uncompressable water to go through and you're in a world of hurt.

-Dan

I think you just have to use your common sense, avoid going out in seriously wet downpoors and watch out for puddles. Its a very rare circumstance (which i have yet to be faced with) where I have been forced to drive through a very deep puddle. 99.9% of the time you can just drive around it.

In my pre-magna days I remember hitting a massive puddle past UWA years ago at quite some speed. Didn't see it at all as it was pitch black and p!ssing down. Water got into my distributor and that's pretty high up. Hate to think want would happen if you had a CAI kit down low :shock:

In my pre-magna days I remember hitting a massive puddle past UWA years ago at quite some speed. Didn't see it at all as it was pitch black and p!ssing down. Water got into my distributor and that's pretty high up. Hate to think want would happen if you had a CAI kit down low :shock:

Exactlly, you can't avoid every puddle or pool of water on the road, sometimes they look small, but in reallity they hide a large dips in the road and whaaaam, you just plowed through it all lol