Okay,i just want to know some answers from people who have actually done this job...ie.....rear awd calipers with awd rotors onto a fwd..


So...i have every thing i need and go to fit it up this arvo,and seemingly run into problems/questions..

1.what the hell do you do with the dust sheild and how do you take it off..


....is there a big nut behind what looks like a dust cover at the back of the stub,that then allows the stub to come off ,then allowing the dust shield to be removed...what a pain in the butt...i see where you take out the four bolts and this loosens the hand brake,but what next...

2.Also..this spacer....does it go behind the disc or what...it has got the right chamfered edge on it,but ,it doesnt seem to do much apart from making the disc sit out too much.

when i put it behind the disc it causes the disc too run out in relation to the caliper ie the caliper seems to pull the disc to one side


but when i have no spacer,the disc sits flush with the hub and spins freely.....do i have ralliart discs??

also..those silver pad support things sit awefully close to the disc or will right it self once the pressure is in the line...and the piston sorts things out...


I havent yet disconnected the old cailper yet,as ,i thought i would play it safe and wait to see what hassles i might have,and sure enuogh...

thanks...

the dust shield is actually integrated into the hub/parking brake. you don't need to take it off, but if you want to you'll have to cut it off. I used an angle grinder and file.

if you have AWD discs and a FWD hub, the spacer goes between the hub and the disc. if the disc actually fits without the spacer (i.e. is flush with the hub face), then you might have Ralliart discs or (very less likely) non-FWD hubs. I know TZABOY has hubs that fit AWD discs without a spacer, so it is possible.

once you bleed the brakes and pressurise the caliper, it *should* centre. just make sure you spin the rim to check clearance before you drop the car off your jack.

cheers,
.wook

With the backing plate, I tend to drill the spot welds and remove it that way, is a far neater job and less sparks flying around. With the ralliart rotors and spaced awd rotors the dust sheild will not be in the way although will be close

If the rotor is fitting and lining up without the spacer, you must have the ralliart rotors or the odd hubs.

Personally I would far prefer to have the std rear brakes than use spacers as the wheels rely on the hub lip to locate, although no one that I know of has lost a wheel the spacer is both illegal and I am sure if you spoke to most engineers they would recommend highly against using it

Well,after a bit of head scrathing and brainstorming and consulting the DBA website,it would appear that i do have Ralliart discs as all the measurements match up and the hat size doesnt come any where near the awd specs..so .lucky me i guess.

With that new found info,i will be putting them on WITHOUT the spacers and will work out some thing with the dust sheilds,thanks for the feed back

With the backing plate, I tend to drill the spot welds and remove it that way, is a far neater job and less sparks flying around. With the ralliart rotors and spaced awd rotors the dust sheild will not be in the way although will be close

If the rotor is fitting and lining up without the spacer, you must have the ralliart rotors or the odd hubs.

Personally I would far prefer to have the std rear brakes than use spacers as the wheels rely on the hub lip to locate, although no one that I know of has lost a wheel the spacer is both illegal and I am sure if you spoke to most engineers they would recommend highly against using it

not true Mal. the spacer is only 3.7mm and the centre bore is at least 10mm, which leaves 6.3mm for the rim to centre on.

I have my rear brakes engineered, and the guy who signed off on it said that they're perfectly safe.

No worries Wook, i have had an engineer look also and he stated he would not look at these in a blind fit as you take the 3.7mm, the fact that the wheel has about 3mm champher on it to assist it to locate and you are left with less than 3mm from the measurements taken.

he stated that he would not approve ANY spacer at all on ANY car, he is one of the main engineers who is approved to clear work for Vic Roads.

He is interested in assisting us however and has come up with an idea which would include a mod to the Rotor and a different idea of spacer which whould be mounted to either the hub or rotor and thus also give back that lip required, he does a similar thing for commodores at the moment apparently but does front and rear as you will also end up with tracking issues unless you have your front and rear wheels with different offset

Well,got around to fitting these this arvo,and as expected...no drama's what so ever....simple unbolt and bolt on job.

Looks so much better imo, and does she stop....

So ,the set up i now have is as follows,

Front-380 Calipers and discs with Bendix gct pads,which atm feel a bit shitty and seem to get a bit smelly quickly... i will have to get some Ultimates i think

Rear-TJ AWD Calipers and RALLIART Disc's with NO SPACERS......The rears seem to be the stock pads ,and there is plenty of meat on them,so will wait a bit before i change them.

My next plan of attack is to either get some one to do a full brake fluid flush with new fluid or do it myself.

Does any one know what brand of brake fluid is a different color to the greeny/blue color i have at the moment,as i would like to have a different color to see when the new stuff is coming through the lines..


....and is it ,start at the furthest caliper away from the master cylinder and work your way around till you get to the front right..??

how much did it improve the brakeing? and how much did it cost you in total?

Well,got around to fitting these this arvo,and as expected...no drama's what so ever....simple unbolt and bolt on job.

Looks so much better imo, and does she stop....

So ,the set up i now have is as follows,

Front-380 Calipers and discs with Bendix gct pads,which atm feel a bit shitty and seem to get a bit smelly quickly... i will have to get some Ultimates i think

Rear-TJ AWD Calipers and RALLIART Disc's with NO SPACERS......The rears seem to be the stock pads ,and there is plenty of meat on them,so will wait a bit before i change them.

My next plan of attack is to either get some one to do a full brake fluid flush with new fluid or do it myself.

Does any one know what brand of brake fluid is a different color to the greeny/blue color i have at the moment,as i would like to have a different color to see when the new stuff is coming through the lines..


....and is it ,start at the furthest caliper away from the master cylinder and work your way around till you get to the front right..??

yes mate!

how much did it improve the braking? and how much did it cost you in total?

I have yet to put it to an ultimate test,or go for a good blast through my favourite twisties,but first impressions are that ,the intial feel is similar to the old set up with a slightly firmer pedal.

You can go really deep into a braking zone and when you push REALLY hard,you can really feel the calipers working so much better.I would really recomend them to any one.
Now costs...

The fronts cost me $360---$180 for the calipers from Imalachs in Clayton Victoria and $180 for the discs and lines from Magnawreck in Adelaide.

Rears cost $250---$200 for the rear calipers from Eddies and 50 bucks for a super bonus set of Ralliart discs from TUFF-TR (thanks Paul..and a bigger thanks to who ever you brought them off for "stuffing " it up..lol )

...it also cost me $25 for a set of spacers,but in the end i didnt need them....

So ....$635.00 all up....bit of a messy and long winded way of doing it,but im happy...

...and these are hand sanded and polished, [B]not painted[/B
Pity the rears are not alloy calipers ,as i would have done the same to them as well.

Have done the same to all the calipers on my 380 GT,and they look just as good behind its wheels as well.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x112/micpea/STEALTH%20380%20GT/Image0279.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x112/micpea/STEALTH%20380%20GT/Image0283.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x112/micpea/STEALTH%20380%20GT/Image0282.jpg

No shots of the rears atm,but i will get some in the next day or so.