Hi all

quick question... i am bringing my TJ Sports back to stock to sell and when i took it in to get the advantis swapped with the stockies, i was told that the wheel nuts need to be changed back aswell??

when i bought the advantis 4 years ago, i dont remember them replacing the wheel nuts to suit the advantis, and if they did, they didnt give me the std wheel nuts :eh:

does this sound right?

also, i was quoted $11 a nut from mitsubishi and apparently thats the only place u can get them from (other than wreckers etc) :noway:

i call BS

Some wheels are desinged to use a nut that is spaced by the thread of the nutt, some are concaved, which is how the nutt centres the wheel on the stud. Really only 2 types, maybe open ended ones aswell, usually not though. Its possible that you dont have the right wheel nuts, but 11 buck each is a jip, go to the rweckrs, you are looking to sell anyways

AFAIK the standard wheel nuts have a flat "flange" and washer on the nut, and after-market should be available at most Auto spares shops - tho I think some aftermarket ones have the washers "loose" - whereas the genuine have washers which are captive on the wheel nut. The captive washers would be a lot less grief when changing a tyre on the side of a freeway, in the dark, in the rain - IMHO. I paid Mitsi price for one or two nuts when my TJ was bought with a missing nut or two - but I'd try the wreckers for a full set.

If you can get to a self-serve wreckers, its likely the ground around any 3rd Gen shells will be littered with wheel nuts (based on my experiences at Pick-N-Pay-Heaps at Blacktown NSW - actually to be fair, I have done alright there price-wise more recently and often done best when in company of other AMC's).

Another option might be E-bay - I have noticed ricey after-market wheel nuts sold on there, but they may be crap and relatively unsafe (prob HK or China sellers if I recall correctly).

EDIT: I agree with -lynel- the standard wheel nuts for my TJ and KJ have a narrow protrusion with the thread inside, this goes down between the alloy rim and the wheel stud, the washer/flange I sopke of is further back on the wheel nut and the washer butts up against the alloy rim, recessed in the wheel-nut hole. Sorry, this prob sounds like drivel, but I know what I mean!!

Aftermarket alloys could have any number of patterns for the nuts, so the tyre fitters may be right. If you compare a wheel nut of the after-market alloys with the std TJ Sports rims it should be obvious if they are compatible or not.

If you are in the eastern suburbs or come over my way at al, drop by and I will tell you what wheel nuts you have and what you will need for stock rims

thanks for all the info guys!


If you are in the eastern suburbs or come over my way at al, drop by and I will tell you what wheel nuts you have and what you will need for stock rims

doh, i was just down at imlachs :headbange

bought a set off then for 10 bucks, came off a '96 (was the latest they had there) but i think they may have only had std steel rims on them instead of the alloys

heres a cpl pics to show the diff between the std ones i bought and the aftermarket ones i have on there...



Standard nut (from wreckers) with alloy.. flat sunk inside:
http://members.iinet.net.au/~hazrd/stdnut.JPG

Standard nut with advanti rim.. curved sunk inside:
http://members.iinet.net.au/~hazrd/stdnutad.JPG

Aftermarket nut with alloy:
http://members.iinet.net.au/~hazrd/amnut.JPG


Aftermarket nut with advanti rim:
http://members.iinet.net.au/~hazrd/amnutad.JPG




Madmagna... ill PM u...

I dont think the 'standard' ones you got from wrecckers are correct. The description provided in earlier seems right of a shank (tube) with internal thread and a flat surface which the washers seat on and the washers then face the flat recess of each lug hole on the stock pattern alloy wheels.

The shanked nut's thread are described as 12 x 1.5 mm.

There is something to be very careful of though and that is that different stock alloy wheels or wheel hub studs require different washer thickness on the same shanked nuts. There is a thick (approx 3-4mm) and a thin washer (approx 2mm). If you use the thin washer where a thick is required your wheel nuts will not fully seat to the wheel lug holes as they will touch the wheel hub face first and your wheel nuts will loosen and your wheels can fall off while driving - not recommended.

Trust me it nearly happened to me towing a trailer. I had bought a 2003 TJ II AWD with 18" chromies which came with tapered nuts and when I replaced with stock alloy wheels (TJ I VRX 18'" x 7" alloys) I checked with a tyre/wheel shop and thought I had bought the right shanked nuts for the wheels. They are about $3.50 for each shanked nut and washer.

They loosen up in about 50km and the only thing that saved me was the 4 lock nuts that were correct but even one of these nearly came off too. As I had just put new 'correct' wheel nuts on initially I assumed the slight vibration/knock was just the concrete panel joins in the freeway and had stopped in the pouring rain to check each wheel but they seemed fine. As it got worse I thought it was a drivers front CV joint and luckily got off the freeway and limped at 40kmh to a workshop which discovered the problem before my wheels fell off but he said that they were all completely loose and only the lock nuts saved me.

Thanks for all the help and info guys. much appreciated

i managed to find a place in dandenong (magnawrec) that had a set of alloy wheel nuts (the ones with the washers as above) and picked the set up for $20 :D

$12 each from Mitsu, $6 each from Autobarn, exact same shank diameter