Hi everyone, I recently bought a TF with a blown auto for $800 :) with LPG (245000k), I found a manual box and all the parts ($800 with 117k) and I've converted it to manual (about 10 hours labour but don't ask how long the car was in peices for while I went to work etc) I've also lowered it (KYB + lovell lows), put in a K&N panel filter, rear H/D sway bar (Currently on medium but considering hard), front strut brace (not sure it was worth it), cd player etc...

Are all manual magna clutches really hard to master ?? 5000k later I'm still having trouble taking off smooth without engine shudder unless I time everything perfect but I suspect that it may be engine mounts? seems to be worse when running LPG and air con on so maybe I'm not giving it enough gas ?

I'm now considering buying a TH 3.5l engine to put in it.. just because..
I know it can be done using the existing 3.0l ECU (which is still the auto ecu) and the TF intake plenum/TB but my main worry is that the LPG may not like it ? it's a parnell system which piggy backs off the car ECU.

Other issues I've considered is drive shaft lengths?, sandwhich plate?, all the extra injector wires on a TH engine.
Oh, and registration.....

Also will I loose cruise control? that was tricky to get working with the manual box but I got there.. I'm assuming not if I use the TF TB?

Please don't mention how expensive it will be or to buy a new car, unless we're talking the cost of a new car it's not an issue.

So far I've spent

$800 car
$800 manual stuff
$450 clutch
$150 sway bar
$200 strut brace, hmm..
$120 K&N filter
$200 CD player
$30 for a gear knob
$5 for a hack saw to take an inch off the gear stick
Plus more in maintenance items/rego which don't really count towards the total cost so an extra 1 -2k isn't a huge issue..

Thanks :)

Experiment with different RPM when you take off. 2,000 rpm with a slow clutch let up should be smooth as anything. Try taking off slowly in 2nd gear with low rpm (1,200 rpm). If you get major shudder it might be engine mounts or a problem with the clutch grabbing. Did you dismantle/clean out/lube the clutch release mechanism inside the bell housing?

Mitsu clutches are usually light, smooth and have a wide take up point. (You didn't put in a ceramic puck type of clutch did ya? Would explain everything! lol)

Hi and welcome
To be honest without being rude, this has been covererd that many times by myself and others may be an idea to do a search

In short, you do not need to go to all the extra drama with the TH gear, wiring etc, just drop the engine in and run it off what you already have, ie 3.0 ecu etc

You will need the top alt bracket, engine pipe and intermediate shaft from the 3.5, the alt bracket off the TF

I have also moved this into the correct forum for you

Thanks guys, I did do a search.. just wanted to make sure I didn't miss anything, Thanks Madmagna.

In regards to the clutch, my wife can drive it without shudder except when doing a handbrake start on a steep driveway (coles driveway is a killer) I was hesitant to give it too much gas should I wear out the clutch..
Like I said, it mainly happens on LPG with the air con on, It's just my driving style I'm sure ;)

What is a ceramic puck type clutch? I just bought a Highway Brake and clutch kit off Ebay.. The clutch looked fairly similar to the one that I was given with the box only not worn out.. I greased the clutch fork when I put the new thrust bearing on..

I must have done something wrong though because I have a slight irregular rattle when the clutch is engaged (cold start), as soon as I release the clutch (pedal depressed) it stops, after the car has warmed up it seems to stop but is intermitant and nobody but me can hear it lol, If it gets louder I'll worry about it but for now I'm not too concerned..

Cheers

Ok,
If someone has told you to go ceramic clutch, ignore them as they are FOS. If yo do this you will never do a hill start without stalling it and destroying your flywheel and clutch

The rattle is your input shaft bearing, quite common especially on these boxes

The shudder, if only when on LPG is a tuning issue as if it was the clutch it would do it on petrol as well

When you do the 3.5 conversion, you can also use your current shafts including your intermediate shaft, there is a mod that needs to be done to the intermediate shaft but I can do that for you for $50.00

If yo do not want to frig around doing it yourself, what you are doing is one of the things I do through my business

Ok,
If someone has told you to go ceramic clutch, ignore them as they are FOS. If yo do this you will never do a hill start without stalling it and destroying your flywheel and clutch

I'm not sure what material the clutch is but it's an OE replacement and the same material as the stock clutch that came with the box which was apparently the original clutch.. I have desire to go anything other than a stock clutch..

The rattle is your input shaft bearing, quite common especially on these boxes

Phew, thanks.. I wasn't too concerned but nice to know it's common and not doing any harm

The shudder, if only when on LPG is a tuning issue as if it was the clutch it would do it on petrol as well That would explain the hesitation on LPG in 2nd between 1500 - 3000 rpm, seems like it's not getting enough fuel, I'll take it in to get it tuned, I'm just wanting to be sure I don't get the "You did something by converting it to manual" line

When you do the 3.5 conversion, you can also use your current shafts including your intermediate shaft, there is a mod that needs to be done to the intermediate shaft but I can do that for you for $50.00

I did see a post about someone modding the drive shaft to fit, something to do with changing where it mounts to the engine?

I'm assuming the clutch and flywheel will fit as I haven't been able to find any mention of it, but it makes me wonder why there's clutches for 3.0L available and are more expensive for 3.5L

If yo do not want to frig around doing it yourself, what you are doing is one of the things I do through my business

I make take you up on that once I get all the bits, it's a bit of a dream and wish at the moment, doing the gearbox while fun was a pita, especially getting the manual up and attached to the engine with the front of the car almost at chest height.. lol

Cheers.

If it helps, I do have an engine available, this has all you will need to bolt straight in, is a 3.5 with approx 120 on the clock

There are many 3,5 conversions out there, the flywheel is the same across most of the range, there are actually 3 clutch sizes.

You will also find that the aftermarket clutches are heavier than stock anyway, unless you are doing drag racing etc (legal of course) you really can not go past the drivability and reliability of a standard aftermarket clutch

If it helps, I do have an engine available, this has all you will need to bolt straight in, is a 3.5 with approx 120 on the clock

There are many 3,5 conversions out there, the flywheel is the same across most of the range, there are actually 3 clutch sizes.

You will also find that the aftermarket clutches are heavier than stock anyway, unless you are doing drag racing etc (legal of course) you really can not go past the drivability and reliability of a standard aftermarket clutch

Just one more question, with your TF 3.5 how did you go getting insurance? Did they expect you to have eng cert etc?

I hve mine insured and registered ok, remember the verada is the same body and came with the 3.5

Cool, Now I just need to convince the boss the engine is dying.
Any idea's?

Is there something I can stick in the rear muffler to make it smoke? haha.

Just put some engine oil in the petrol tank - guaranteed to make a big cloud of smoke!

My car (A may 1996 TE model) is a 3.0 but goes very well and have no plans of putting a 3.5 in. But lets say if I got a 3.5 put in my TE would I have to replace the auto transmission? - My TE at 256,000Ks still has the factory auto and 3.0L. Just curious if the 3.5 is compatible? - Car also has factory cruise control which I think is not that common in Executives.

I heard that some early TE models had problems with their autos, but I've never had a problem with mine. Maybe is it because I rarely thrash the car and keep it well serviced.

Brake fluid in the muffler
Stuff a rag into the intake box before the filter, to make it run really rich?

Why go to all that hassle, just remove a plug lead, it runs on 5cyl and tell here it has a cracked piston ring, and hope like hell she does not read this forum at some stage when she is snooping around wondering what yo have been doing on the puter

To the question for the TE owner,it will bolt straight up as long as you have the few different bits needed as discussed above

Why go to all that hassle, just remove a plug lead, it runs on 5cyl and tell here it has a cracked piston ring, and hope like hell she does not read this forum at some stage when she is snooping around wondering what yo have been doing on the puter

To the question for the TE owner,it will bolt straight up as long as you have the few different bits needed as discussed above

Haha! good idea..