I'm on my second 380. Never had a prob on my Series I. But my Series II SX (White) has developed tiny rust spots on the bonnet and boot lid. Someone at work said he thought there was something called mud wax or something. Any one got any ideas or solved that problem themselves.

Pictures???

stone chips that are unprotected will rust as air exposed steel always does

sounds like "Clay Bar" dont know the name of the manufacturer,
check Disiple's car "Detailing" thread maybe,
dunno though, I'd be getting profesional help with rust on such a new car.


b well, D.

Clay bar wont do anything to rust

my detailing thread

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74486

get some pics up as it may not be rust at all in which case a detail will fix it up

Could it be from a nearby grinder? My brothers white patrol has tiny rust spots on it from the metal of his grinder sticking to the paint work

Will do a pic tomorrow. Not near any bad areas. ie industrial or anything. It looks like rust. Anyway pics tomorrow. It's dark out right now.

Do you have a magnetic p plate near that area? My Magna used to have rust flakes from the P Plates stuck on my bonnet and bootlid, which was an absolute bastard to remove. Had to use some expensive polish to lift the particles.

Could it be from a nearby grinder? My brothers white patrol has tiny rust spots on it from the metal of his grinder sticking to the paint work

Was just about to say this to, my uncles car was covered in tiny rust spots from someone using a grinder near his car. Buff and polish should fix this unless they are bad.

None of the above is the problem. Here is 2 pics of the spots. they are quite rough to run your hand over.

Links:

http://rapidshare.com/files/333446059/Rust_1.JPG.html
http://rapidshare.com/files/333446061/Rust_2.JPG.html

holy shite, thats bad. nobody egged your car previously? ever gotten a spray of brake fluid from asshole kids in the area? The rust on that looks terrible, get it fixed asap

Links don't work. You've reached a maximum of views, somehow with this Rapidshare mob. Try ImageShack or Photobucket.

Links don't work. You've reached a maximum of views, somehow with this Rapidshare mob. Try ImageShack or Photobucket.

Works for me and the guy in the post before you.

holy shite, thats bad. nobody egged your car previously? ever gotten a spray of brake fluid from asshole kids in the area? The rust on that looks terrible, get it fixed asap

Nope. I know it's bad. I'm thinking I got a bad paint job. I look after it too. Regular washing and waxing. Live in WA so no frost etc. Live on a 5 acre property in the Hills of the Swan Valley so we don't get passing kids for example. No one has access to it except me. Any solutions? Is mud wax gonna do it? Can't afford a respray.

One of them doesnt work for me. "This file is neither allocated to a Premium Account, or a Collector's Account, and can therefore only be downloaded 10 times."

For me it says:
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Error

This file is neither allocated to a Premium Account, or a Collector's Account, and can therefore only be downloaded 10 times.

This limit is reached.

To download this file, the uploader either needs to transfer this file into his/her Collector's Account, or upload the file again. The file can later be moved to a Collector's Account. The uploader just needs to click the delete link of the file to get further information.
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But anyway, back on topic if other people are able to view it, that's cool - I don't know anything about fixing rust... except to respray it.
There was a guy here, maybe 4-5 years ago with a Series 1 GT that had bad paint problems (was peeling or flaking, or something). He tried many times in vain to get it fixed under warranty, but finally sold it and an got Audi instead.

that paintwork is absolutly filthy it looks like its never been washed. im not suprised its going rusty.

here are the pics for those who can't access them

http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/1064/rust1.jpg

http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/6665/rust2u.jpg

My TE had these and I suspect it's because of the eucalyptus trees it used to get parked under. The debris are highly acidic. I got out the pocket knife and they came off easily. Then a cut and polish did the trick.

Grinding sparks are always rough when they sit in the paint especially with one of the pics showing a big spot of metal.
If you dont know what happened to it,you'll more than likely never find out.
Have it buffed and see what the outcome is,im a spray painter so that is your first step before accepting it will need painting.
$150-300 for a full buff,shop around.

Grinding sparks are always rough when they sit in the paint especially with one of the pics showing a big spot of metal.
If you dont know what happened to it,you'll more than likely never find out.
Have it buffed and see what the outcome is,im a spray painter so that is your first step before accepting it will need painting.
$150-300 for a full buff,shop around.

Doesn't it cost about $150 - $200 to respray a section/panel? I recently got my car resprayed due to keying. So rear right door, rear right quarter panel and right side of rear bumper was cost $650 to repaint due to pearlescent paint. So payed $400 excess instead.

that paintwork is absolutly filthy it looks like its never been washed. im not suprised its going rusty.

here are the pics for those who can't access them

http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/1064/rust1.jpg

http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/6665/rust2u.jpg

How rude. :o) It is not as bad as the photo makes out. It was washed less than a week ago. Living in the bush up here we are in a "Catastrophic" Bushfire area. You may have seen us on the news last week (Brigadoon WA). We were evicted for 2 days by the police and Fire brigade. It was very frightening. I washed the car thoroughly when I came back as we got ash burns on my wife's car but not on mine. What you can see in the photo is just dust from the still ashy air.

Don't sweat the comments.

All cars are galvanised now before painting so take it to Mitsu and see what they say. I'd be surprised if it's not surface metal contamination but not being able to see it in person I can only offer an opinion.

How rude. :o) It is not as bad as the photo makes out. It was washed less than a week ago. Living in the bush up here we are in a "Catastrophic" Bushfire area. You may have seen us on the news last week (Brigadoon WA). We were evicted for 2 days by the police and Fire brigade. It was very frightening. I washed the car thoroughly when I came back as we got ash burns on my wife's car but not on mine. What you can see in the photo is just dust from the still ashy air.


sorry wasnt meant to be offensive but ya gotta admit it does look bad. it happens to white cars cause they don't have a clear coat for protection. the rust has eaten into the paint where it bleeds on the edges. get some polish or scratch and swirl remover and it will clean up the rust spots. then give the car a good coat of wax to seal it.

Doesn't it cost about $150 - $200 to respray a section/panel? I recently got my car resprayed due to keying. So rear right door, rear right quarter panel and right side of rear bumper was cost $650 to repaint due to pearlescent paint. So payed $400 excess instead.

That was a price for a all over buff,not just a panel and yes to repaint a panel can cost from $150-300 actually

Don't sweat the comments.

All cars are galvanised now before painting so take it to Mitsu and see what they say. I'd be surprised if it's not surface metal contamination but not being able to see it in person I can only offer an opinion.

No high production cars are galvanised before paint work,they are electrocoated with a surface primer and then sealed before paint and after the primer dip stage.

A good going over with a decent quality Overspray Clay and a proper machine buff should remove those marks. When I worked at a dealership, a lot of the new cars had similar problems like this - although not quite as bad. Mainly caused by metal shavings sitting on the painted surfaces I found.

OK Guys. Many thanks for your help in this thread. With various responses I got it fixed.

First I went and bought Turtle Waxes Scratch and Swirl also their Color Cure Plus. Using either my finger nail or a brand new Stanley Knife blade I carefully flicked off the rust till it felt smooth to the touch. This left either rusty brown stains or a thin slit. Using Scratch and Swirl I rubbed these in a circular motion.

This worked perfectly on 95% of the offending spots. I was stoked just with that. All I was left with were the slits. Some of which were, I presume, down to the metal. Using the wax stick I filled these. All this took about 2 hours to do and was quite nackering.

The lipstick like wax stick that came with Color Cure Plus was less than successful I have to say. You could rub it in till it filled the slit but when you went to wipe over it with a soft cloth it just cleaned it all off.

I finally managed to get a bit to stay in but really don't think that that part of the product really does what it says it will. It left a tiny bump but it's barely noticeable and would have rubbed off AGAIN if I'd touched it anymore.

Finally I applied the Color Cure wax and it looks fantastic. I'm totally stoked. Thanks again. I'm going to sell it next year as I've got 56000 on the clock and sold my Series I at 60000. Going to source a low mileage Series III VRX or SX preferably in white. I like white cars. Oh why did they stop making them. Best car I ever had.

Oh why did they stop making them. Best car I ever had.

Because you must of been the only person buying them lol. No, seriously - they struggled big time to sell them since they were released. The whole model was doomed before it was even released etc etc etc.

Good to see you got the issues fixed up. Those 'chip sticks' though should be called shit sticks - they dont do anything. Get a bit of touch up paint mixed up to fill in the remaining imperfections and it should do the trick.