I am replacing the struts on my TN wagon and have followed a number of thread re strut replacement and the gregory manual. All is well except I find with the new strut installed I don't get the same clearance of thread on the top of the strut and the top nut in the engine bay? I have dismantled and reassembled the left side a number of times and finding its the same for the right side. The thread length of the old and new struts are the same. Any ideas?

the top nut has a specific torque to it (should be in the manual )

the lower nuts should be the same distance
from the top of the thread to the top of the lower nut
use the allen key so the shock doesnt move

Thanks Magna Buff for the reply. This is what I would expect, however I find I can tighten the lower nut to a point, and follow the installation process. However when it comes to installing the strut into the car there is just enough thread to secure the second (top) nut and no thread of the strut exposed. Where originally on the top nut there was still thread (approx. 12mm) exposed. I've done both sides and its the same. I am wondering if the bump stop (unlikely) or the springs under tension is preventing its progress? And on this I have used two sets of spring compressors to tension down the spring to assist installation.

I have a front strut out of the car
and I measured the distance from the
top of the lower nut to the top of the thread

two and a half inches or over 6cm

hope that helps

Perhaps the springs are slightly different from the old ones or the old ones have settled (lost height)??, makes you wonder with both new ones being like that.
I presume you have them in struts correctly.

I have reassembled the strut the reverse of how I disassembled them. The springs are the original, the cause might be the shaft length of the strut or maybe somewhere I altered the reassembly.
The shaft are secured by the top nut but only half way through and in test driving I have a slight click in the strut.

That click could be the spring, if the top and bottom of the strut are'nt properly aligned.

Thanks Zero. I haven't heard of alignment of the strut in the installation process. I gather your referring to the positioning of the spring in the strut recess and the seat (or cap which secures the top) of the coil spring? As I noted in the reassembly the spring was turned into the cap and strut to ensure it was seated properly. I gather problem is in the strut shaft length. lesson- buyer beware

I'm only going from 3rd gen experience, there are holes in the top and bottom of the struts where the spring seats....these need to be aligned.

When reassembling the strut, this is from vague memory, there should be a hole
through the top thread, if u don't screw the strut reassembly nut below this u won't have enough thread later on to go into the engine bay.
I had to use a shifter or spanner to hold one nut (to stop the main shaft from spinning) and tighten the other nut with a socket. It's easier if the springs are compressed while doing this. I hope this makes sense...

Thanks Floater05, you were on the right track! I had not aligned and tightened the top cap down the thread. The hole in the cap was burred so I filed this down and slightly flared to ensure the rod would easily slip through the cap. I also found using another pair of spring compressors (old type) helped pull the springs down so that I could more easily push and align the cap down completely onto strut shaft. Reassembled and the machine handles well.
Next job is to replace the rear brake rotors and pads, which have been sitting in the shed.

no worries mate, glad i could be of assistance :)